1992 Chevrolet Silverado truck won't start - injectors?

Tiny
NATALI
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 178,634 MILES
I am trying to figure out why my truck doesn't start. It seems that gas is not getting to the engine but I can be wrong. I was away from home for 3 weeks. When I came back, the truck started right away but stalled 2 minutes later. I made it to the grocery store (5 minute ride) but it didn't start after that. I had it towed to my studio.
The fuel injectors on my truck (1992 Chevrolet 2500 2WD, 5.7L) read a resistance of 1.5 ohms. The Haynes Manual says the resistance should be between 1.16-1.36 ohms. Is 1.5 ohms big enough of a difference to prevent my truck from starting? Would cleaning them change anything or should I just replace the injectors?
I looked at them while my boyfriend turned the key on and nothing came out of them. I am not sure if this is the right way to check them since the air filter housing was open.
What I have checked: The battery is charged and works fine with a load. I replaced the ignition coil and the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump seems to work, I can hear a nice wrrr when the key is turned on. The fuel filter seems fine and was replaced about 2 months ago. Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor have been replaced 2 months ago, same as oil and oil filter. I just checked one of the spark plugs. There is a little bit of black deposit on it but not much (should I do anything about this?). I just refurbished the fuel pressure regulator that seemed to leak. The "check engine" light has been on and off since I bought the truck (a year and a half ago).
Could the computer itself be bad and causing the truck not to start?
Thank you in advance for sharing your wisdom.

natali
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Wednesday, June 10th, 2015 AT 3:55 PM

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Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Wednesday, June 10th, 2015 AT 4:46 PM

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