AFTER REPLACING THERMOSTAT CAR RAN FOR TEN MINUTES AND STALLED AFTER AC WAS TURNED ON, WONT START NO SPARK

  • Tiny
  • phillipjb87
  • 1989 Toyota Corolla
  • 310,000 miles

Hello I have a 1989 corolla sr5 309,000 miles. I will start at the beginning of the problems. Was about to drive to MI from TN, was on the interstate for thirty minutes and the car started overheating. I let it cool and added a little water I had to it. On the drive back home the temp was still higher than normal around 75-85% of gauge but was not overheating. Parked the car for two hours decided I needed a new thermostat and a coolant flush because of how rusty the coolant was. Drove the car 20 minutes to auto store, car was operating normally, not running hot was at normal temp. Flushed the coolant system and replaced thermostat later that evening, started the car everything was fine temperature was normal, car ran for approx. 10-15 minutes windows starting fogging up because of the humid weather so I turned ac on and within 10-15 seconds the car idled down and stalled. Then the car would not start back up. Turned ac off still not starting. It is getting fuel, no spark though. Please help

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Saturday, June 16th, 2012 AT 9:51 PM

8 Replies

  • Tiny
  • ASEMaster6371
  • Expert
  • 25,556 posts

Start with basics. With the mileage, do a compression test. If the timing belt failed, it would not have spark.

If it does have compression, it may have a bad rotor or cap and further, the distributor may have failed.

Roy

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Saturday, June 16th, 2012 AT 10:02 PM
  • Tiny
  • phillipjb87
  • Member

I have inspected the rotor and cap both look like they are in good shape, could it be the coil? I checked voltage at the connector that runs wires to the coil and it was showing 12.4 volts with the key turned on, not cranking. Not sure if this helps or if its relevant.
Thank you for your help!

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Saturday, June 16th, 2012 AT 10:09 PM
  • Tiny
  • ASEMaster6371
  • Expert
  • 25,556 posts

Did you check the compression?

12 volts to the coil on the plus side. The negative should pulsate a test light while cranking. If it does, most likely a bad coil. If it does not, then it is a control issue

Roy

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Saturday, June 16th, 2012 AT 10:22 PM
  • Tiny
  • phillipjb87
  • Member

I have not checked the compression as of now because I dont have a compression test tool, also I dont have a test light just a volt meter. Thank you again for your help I am desperate to get this fixed!

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Saturday, June 16th, 2012 AT 10:33 PM
  • Tiny
  • phillipjb87
  • Member

I have checked all fuses, unplugged and plugged back in all relays. I will check to see if camshaft is turning when being cranked as soon as I have an extra hand. Thank you again for your help Roy. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Phil

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Saturday, June 16th, 2012 AT 10:52 PM
  • Tiny
  • rasmataz
  • Member

Think, Ignitor too! After you check the distributor pick-up coil resistances-without the Ne- and G signals the computer will not tell the ignitor to fire the coil if it doesn't get the Igt signal

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Saturday, June 16th, 2012 AT 11:53 PM
  • Tiny
  • phillipjb87
  • Member

Thanks for everyones help! Turned out to be a bad coil. The coil showed 9.34 for resistance vs. The new one at 11.7. Thanks again

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Monday, June 18th, 2012 AT 7:44 PM
  • Tiny
  • rasmataz
  • Member

Your welcome -that's what were here for-TY for using 2carpros

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Wednesday, June 20th, 2012 AT 6:27 AM

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