On a 1989 Ford Taurus (3.8L), we have a starting problem. The Battery is new,
the alternator is new the voltage regulator is new, the starter is new,
the solenoid is new, and the battery cables are new. YET it takes a jump to
BARELY turn the engine over, but when it starts it does run good.
Ensure battery is fully charged and cables are clean and properly connected. Check for short to
ground. If problem still exists, clean and tighten connections at starter relay and battery ground
connection on engine. If problem continues, replace starter.
STARTER DOES NOT CRANK, STARTER RELAY CLICKS
Ensure battery is fully charged and cables are clean and properly connected. Clean and tighten
connections at starter and relay. If problem continues, replace starter.
STARTER DOES NOT CRANK & RELAY CHATTERS OR DOES NOT CLICK
1. Ensure battery is fully charged and cables are clean and properly connected. Remove push-on
connector from relay (Red with Blue stripe wire).
2. Ensure connection is clean and secure, and relay bracket is grounded. If connections are okay,
check operation of relay with jumper wire.
3. Ensure ignition switch is off. Using a jumper wire, connect one end of jumper wire to now
exposed terminal on starter relay and other end to battery positive post.
4. If this corrects problem, check ignition switch, neutral switch and wiring in starting circuit for
open or loose connections. If jumper wire across relay does not correct problem, replace relay.
NOTE: Before performing the following tests, place A/T in "N" or "P" and M/T
in Neutral. Disconnect vacuum line to thermactor by-pass valve. After
tests, run engine 3 minutes before connecting vacuum line.
January, 2, 2011 AT 12:45 AM
READ THE QUESTION, On a 1989 Ford Taurus (3.8L), we have a starting problem. The Battery is new, the alternator is new the voltage regulator is new, the starter is new, the solenoid is new, and the battery cables are new. YET it takes a jump to BARELY turn the engine over, but when it starts it does run good. THE STARTER AND WIRES, AND RELAY, AND BATTERY, AND WIRES, AND SOLENOID ARE ALL NEW !
January, 2, 2011 AT 3:29 AM
Even though things are "NEW" does not mean they 100% up to par!
I would 1st Check EVERY BIG CABLE CONNECTION
POS and NEG both ends of each wire (cables)BATT to SOLENOID to STARTER
Even the SQUEEZER DEALS where the BATTERY CLAMPS Connect to the cables (if yours are not molded on)
PASS NOTHING OFF AS----"IT LOOKS GOOD"---ACTUALLY TAKE IT ALL APART, CLEAN AND TIGHTEN WELL. Basically what merlin2021 said in a more professional/technical way.
This above should be done prior to removing the starter for TESTING/ WARRANTY RETURN---SAME GOES FOR THE SOLENOID. Mr. Battery might also be tested by the "SELLER" to insure its not the "NEW WEAK LINK"
The Charging components will probably play no part in this. UNLESS WHILE IT'S RUNNING, ITS NOT PUTTING OUT 13-16 VOLTS (JUMPER CABLES REMOVED)
MAKE SURE YOUR STUFF IS RIGHT BEFORE---"ASSUMING" (MAKES An _ _ _ OUT OF YOU AND ME!)
I'VE SEEN WAY TOO MANY PEOPLE GET IN WAY DEEP--SLINGING BLAME--AND SORTA LEAVE WITH THEIR TAIL BETWEEN THEIR LEGS!
WE'RE REALLY TRYING TO HELP, YOU JUST GOTTA BE OUR EYES AND HANDS, AND DO THE ACTUAL PROCEDURES. CHEATING WILL NOT HELP YOU!
WE AIN'T GOING NO-WHERE, WE WILL CONTINUE TO ANSWER AS LONG AS YOU REPLY BACK!
MERLIN2021 IS MORE QUALIFIED TO HELP THAN I AM, SHOULD THIS PROGRESS ANY FURTHER THAN THE BASIC STARTING SYSTEM. IMMA JEEP CJ KINDA GUY AND I ANSWER THEM IN THEIR FORUMS WITH MAJOR CONFIDENCE--I'm stuck in the mid '80s on back, prior to computer cars!
I HOPE THIS INFO HELPS YOU!
January, 2, 2011 AT 5:47 AM
You might also check engine timing and the ignition switch, timming that's too far advanced can cause a slow crank. Ignition wires may be shorting in crank position, and even 1 ohm of resistance will make it impossible to start. Connection from the solenoid to battery is new? Conntacts at the solenoid(fusible links) were removed and cleaned?