This is going to be a little tricky because I don't have a service manual to look at. You'll have to tell me the wire colors, then I'll draw my own schematic to work from. I would prefer if you would use a test light, but if all you have is a voltmeter, that's okay too. At some point you may need an ohm meter to do continuity tests. If you don't have a volt / ohm meter, Harbor Freight Tools has a perfectly fine one that often goes on sale for under 5 bucks. Sears, Walmart, and Radio Shack have them too, but don't waste your money on auto-ranging or other features you don't need.
Pull the rear door panel off and take the switch assembly out so you can plug it back in. You should find five wires in the connector. Two of those wires will match the colors at the motor. What are those colors?
Next, with the ignition switch on and the driver's master cutout switch on, you must find 12 volts on one of those remaining three wires. What color is that one?
The two remaining wires go back through the driver's switch, then to ground. What are their colors? Unplug the switch, then measure the continuity with the ohm meter set to the lowest scale. One meter lead goes to the terminal you're testing, and the other one goes to a clean, paint and rust-free point on the body. Sometimes that can be hard to find. Often the brass-colored nuts and bolts on the door striker will work. Those last two wires should read real low, like around, ... Oh, ... 2.0 to 5.0 ohms. Ideally they would read 0.0 ohms but there's going to be some resistance in the wires, switch contacts, and meter leads. The point is you don't want to find an open circuit, meaning real high or infinite resistance. Infinite is what the meter will display when the meter probes aren't touching anything.
Friday, February 14th, 2014 AT 1:17 PM