My 88 chevy s10 blazer refuses to start. Here are the specifics:
V6 4.3L Z 4WD
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION 2YRS OLD
ignition module, battery, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, spark plug wires, tps, coolant temp connector, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, injectors (cleaned and tested)
battery cables voltage drop test (good)
starter tests (good)
ignition coil (good)
pick-up coil (good)
gas in car (yes)
all fuses (good)
fuel pump relay (good)
distributor cap to spark wires (good)
map sensor reference signal (good at 5v)
injector electrical tests (not good or?)
TESTS WITH QUESTIONS
basic injector tests for ground and power as follows (key on engine off):
Did you check for primary voltage at the coil? Pink wire, goes hot with the key on. Any applicable mil codes?
December, 23, 2010 AT 9:14 PM
IT WAS THROWING A CODE 22 AND 34 FOR MAP AND TPS, HAVENT BEEN ABLE TO START IT TO SEE IF THE CODES ARE GONE. MY COIL HAS 4 TERMINALS; --- ---
--- --- LEFT SIDE CONNECTS TO IGNITION MODULE, RIGHT SIDE IS FROM HARNESS; TOP IS WHITE, BOTTOM IS RED; RED GETS 12.3V POWER, BUT ALSO SHOWS.06 AT GRND. WHITE WIRE ONLY GETS POWER; SORRY, I AM A NOVICE AT THIS; I APPRECIATE THE HELP
December, 23, 2010 AT 10:18 PM
You did all that testing and replaced those parts?
The white wire should have a pulse engine cranking. Also, If you take the coil wire loose from cap, center wire, hold close to engine ground/metal part, engine cranking, do you see a spark jump?
December, 24, 2010 AT 12:39 AM
Ya, I did a whole lot of research before and during the last few months. As a single female, I like to know for myself what possibilities there are for not starting. Two guys looked at it, and couldnt figure it out, so I kind of am determined to figure it out. I have a class start on auto electronics jan 18, but that doesnt help me know. I am hoping that it is a ground somewhere, but again, electric is foreign to me. YES, I TRIED THE WHITE WIRE CRANK OVER USING A HEADLIGHT FOR A TESTLIGHT; NOTHING. CANT SEE SPARK FROM COIL, BUT I AM ALONE AND ITS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO SEE WHILE CRANKING. WE TRIED IT BEFORE AND GOT NO SPARK. WE DO HAVE FUEL AND THERE SEEMS TO BE COMPRESSION; THANKS FOR GETTING BACK TO ME SO QUICK!
December, 24, 2010 AT 1:43 AM
Use a digital multimeter for testing voltage. Yes, it may take more than one person for testing? Another thought is to take the tan wire with black tracer loose, then see if spark comes back? There may be a disconnect on that single wire, you take it loose to set timing.
December, 24, 2010 AT 5:46 AM
Hmmm, tan wire? Ya, I got a decent mm and I am getting better with it. Waited until it got dark, and still no spark. So, the esc module gets both pwr and ground where its supposed to, but the tan wire is connected to? Sorry, I will look again tomorrow. Till then, thank you so much for taking the time to help me
December, 24, 2010 AT 6:25 PM
Ok, mitchell shows a tan/blk wire going from d5 through timing connector and on to the bypass on the coil. Is this the one? There is also a tan wire going to the tcc sol. I looked for the timing connector, cant find it yet, I think its in between the engine and dash. I will look again.
December, 24, 2010 AT 9:26 PM
My info says the connector for the tan wire with black stripe is close to distributor, didn't show picture.
December, 27, 2010 AT 7:55 PM
Ah yes. The tan wire is the "B" wire on the ignition module
(by-pass), which is in-line with the set timing connector. So I have to find the connector between the ecm and the ignition module? I will try and get back to you.