1984 F350 w/460 Engine

Tiny
AKIN219
  • MEMBER
  • 1984 FORD F-350
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 104,000 MILES
1984 F350 w/460 Engine. The Volt Meter is not charging Alternator tested fine. What else could it be? We heard there is an inline fuse but can't find it. Other thought is maybe the gauge
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Friday, February 18th, 2011 AT 1:28 AM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Imma CJ JEEP kinda guy, I know little about your rig

Look for a fusible link, on CJs they are coming off of the Solenid.

What they are is, a piece of wire that will melt (like a fuse), they are rated in amps.

They are just like a wire, and tugging on them, they are just like a wire. BUT.

If they are "Shot", Burned up, Melted, Whatever. When you tug on the Fusible Link (wire), With my few experiences with them, They will stretch out like a rubber band!

Usually they are only a few inches long----Some are marked, some are NOT!

I installed them on the Jeep that I pretty much restored, completely wire from scratch, with very little to start with.

Here is explanations from another answer I gave, pay attention at the end w/ pics

Testing for "Continuity" either end of a wire, battery disconnected may help too

If you do not know how to do "Continuity Tests", I have made some pics with a Digital voltmeter---Let me know!

PASTING IN ENTIRE OTHER ANSWER--OTHER THINGS IN HERE COULD HELP TOO!

OK the 1st part was sorta for other applications, but you will see what I intended for a CJ. Ask me questions, CJ fixin' is my Crusade at this site! I will assist you on a more personal, "HOLD YOUR HAND THRU IT" level than some of the other fellers. See other CJ5 & 7 questions in the forums, you will see the extent I go to assist CJs!

CHECK YOUR FUSES!---YOUR OWNERS MANUAL MAY SHOW YOU LOCATIONS THAT YOU KNEW NOTHING ABOUT!

REMOVE AND REPLACE "SUSPECT" FUSES SEVERAL TIMES--THIS MAY SCRAPE OFF CORROSION AND GIVE THEM BETTER CONTACT!

THIS WILL WORK FOR YOU, PROVIDED THAT YOUR BATTERY IS GOOD---OR YOU CAN BE JUMPED OFF!

REMEMBER "NEW STUFF" CAN BE BAD TOO!

YOUR STARTER MAY BE BAD!

YOUR SOLENOID MAY BE BAD!

Try the stuff below (actions), Even if this isn't your system.

Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (Not the posts, the "squeeze connections" on the wire) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem. Follow Battery Positive cable to find the Solenoid.

Clean and tighten the starter connection!

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up at MR. SOLENOID, yours may look different, but function is the same

Insure you are hooked up correctly and tight.

Make sure "S" WIRE is attached to the Solenoid

"OLD FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES, MAY VARY (This was really intended for Jeep CJ People!)

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A and B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6)"I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "SOLENOID MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 and 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT. ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

If your SOLENOID is good---Just not getting a "Signal" from the Key--We can test that too! (Then you will know which direction to chase this problem)

"S" is the wire that activates the Solenoid----we can sorta cheat it!

Regardless what you do to cheat it, You are suppling 12 VOLTS to the "S"('s) terminal on the solenoid. This is momentary as if you are cranking with the key

STAY CLEAR OF MOVING PARTS!IN PARK--OR EMERGENCY BRAKE ON!

I prefer a "Remote Starter Switch"

A Jumper wire momentarily touched or a Screwdriver touching POS BATTERY or POS BATTERY CABLE to the "S" terminal will by-pass the wire from the key

This will for sure let you know whether its a Solenoid problem or a Key ( ignition switch not delivering 12 Volts)

This will start your rig if your key is in the "ON" Position

IF YOU HAVE A CJ 5 OR CJ 7---YOUR WIRES SHOULD BE HOOKED UP, EXACTLY AS MINE ARE, IN THE PICS!

JEEP CJ GUYS!--If you changed your coil and did not get the one that says, "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY". You NEED TO GET THAT ONE! You have just "DOUBLED" your resistance (w/ one with a internal resistor), and DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH VOLTS TO MAKE IT FIRE! (Your resistor is a "RESISTANCE WIRE" going to the coil already!)

Please Reply, Good or Bad

THE MEDIC
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Friday, February 18th, 2011 AT 2:16 AM

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