1980 Jeep CJ7 V8 won't start

Tiny
KOEBES
  • 1980 JEEP CJ7
  • V8
  • 150,000 MILES

Suddenly the jeep won't start. It cranks, and there is fuel in the carburator, but it won't fire until the cranking stops, then it seems to fire ONE time. Unplugging the cable that leads from the ignition coil to the distributor from the distributor cap, there is no spark while cranking, but as soon as I stop cranking there is one spark. It has the SSI ignition system

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Tuesday, December 28th, 2010 AT 5:07 PM

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Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Power the coil positive terminal from the battery positive post and attempt to start and see what happens-if it fires up-replace the ignition switch

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Tuesday, December 28th, 2010 AT 5:18 PM
Tiny
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You haven't by chance replaced the coil?

If you have and did not get the one that states "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR". You now have one with a INTERNAL RESISTOR. And now you have Double Resistance! Not enough volts to run the Coil! (Get the 1st one I mentioned)----You do not have a "Normal looking Resistor", your resistor is a Factory Resistance Wire!

Your Final Last Ditch Almost Fire-up---is the "I" terminal of your Solenoid, Suppling Temporary (Momentary)FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to the Coil ONLY WHILE THE KEY IS CRANKING---Then it dies and Reduced Voltage runs the coil--coming thru the ignition switch and on thru the resistance wire to the POS side if the coil

If it is the IGNITION SWITCH GONE BAD and NOT the Wrong Coil---Old time, "Grand Theft Auto" as described by Rasmataz will give you full coil voltage by BY-PASSING the IGNITION SWITCH CIRCUIT.

Before locking steering, this is how you could "JOY RIDE!"

This is what Razmataz means to do, POS BATT to POS COIL

I usually protect my wiring with a fuse (optional). The one pictured is a 15 AMP. Jam a Screwdriver-nail-paperclip in for Coil Terminal Contact

The NEG side of the coil is what you hook to with a TACH or Dwell meter

In my pics, all is hooked up correctly to by-pass the Ignition switch

Imma Big time CJ GUY--I will help you till you are running---Other Issues. Spit 'em out here, no need to resubmit a new question

Reply below

Your Turn

The Medic

Ras, I made these weeks ago, and been waiting to try them out!----You sorta beat me here, to my foxhole!

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Tuesday, December 28th, 2010 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Sorry Ranger Danger it was open and I attack it didn't mean to do it-You take it from here-You have a Happy New Year 2011 and take care and God bless

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-1
Tuesday, December 28th, 2010 AT 6:49 PM
Tiny
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Oh, Yeah I sorta wanted to include this pic to ORIENT where I was at

The Medic

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Tuesday, December 28th, 2010 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
KOEBES
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No, I didn't replace the ignition coil. I tried to hotwire the car: connect the positive battery pole to the positive side of the coil. Good contact at the coil, I made sure the sharp end had a 12 V charge before jamming it into the positive end of the coil. Cranked, the same: just a one time fire when stop cranking

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Tuesday, December 28th, 2010 AT 9:26 PM
Tiny
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OK Buddy before you do this LAST STEP

CLUE US IN--on recent history, fixes, noises etc etc!

On your steering column 12 O'Clock, "other side of your dash" is your IGNITION MODULE (mirror helps, also removing the plastic collar)----IT'S HARD TO GET TOMake sure it is PLUGGED IN WELL

Pour about a 1/2 an ounce of gas down your CARB---Try to start--If it acts a lot better and really tries to start or does, stop at this point and let me know!

Pull your distributor cap and look for WRONG STUFF!

While you are in there FIRMLY try to Twist the rotor button to see if it will turn the shaft (without breaking the plastic) The shaft will normally have CW and CCW play, but if it turns, either the Button is stripped or the Cam Gear roll pin has sheared. Not Good, but fixable!

Look around good for loose/ broken/ melted wires. Especially around intake and exhaust manifolds

Have a buddy crank, while you shake wires around the coil, distributor and ignition module. WATCH OUT FOR MOVING PARTS!

Next step will be Remove and test the IGNITION MODULE

Follow the distributor wires to it----Its about a 6" X 6" X 2" BOX

On an '83 its located on the Firewall near the Master Cylinder---on others it's on the fender

This is the BEST WAY to disconnect the wire--as per Service manual--it sounds like you would mess up your wires--But it won't!

On either side of the Connector, GRASP THE WIRES FIRMLY and PULL. No need to pry with a small screwdriver. Breaks the locks off every time. Don't ask me how I know!

Next take it to Autozone or Advance Auto (maybe others)----they will test it for FREE. They see these rarely, so you might have to help them figure out the hook-up!

Test it 5-8 times repeatedly(this warms them up) if it fails ONCE, Buy a new one!

You know the Deal. TEST THE NEW ONE the same way too, before you leave the store. There's nothing like a No Start, at the house. Then chase GHOSTS for 2 days, then finding out that it was a BAD-NEW MODULE. Again don't open up that chapter either. Been thru the Stores entire inventory before!

I'm here forever!

Return with GOOD NEWS!

Then fire some more at me!

The Medic

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Tuesday, December 28th, 2010 AT 11:05 PM
Tiny
KOEBES
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Thanks. I will do so. By the way, your descriptions and instructions are absolutely fantastic.
As I live in the San Francisco Bay area, where the garage in those old houses doubles as a cellar with no parking space for a car, I work outside on the car. And now we have 2 big rain fronts moving in with flood warnings in the Napa Valley. So it might take some time to get back to with hopefully good news

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Tuesday, December 28th, 2010 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
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Roger, We will not stop, till you're pulling the hills and running over trollies----Click on my name and read---Take it in!---Let me know if you want to see my albums. Put your rain suit on and get your baby going!

The Medic

"Willy" and "Mr. Jeep"

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Wednesday, December 29th, 2010 AT 1:05 AM
Tiny
KOEBES
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Great looking Jeeps! I like especially the beautifully restored WWII Willy's.

Here not much progress; the car has not had any accidents or traumas recently; the ignition box is solidly wired; the rotor arm has a little play, but otherwise stays its place; I finally located the ignition module, and, man, was it difficult to unplu the cables. There was so much grime and dirt, they were baked to each other. I finally used a citrus based solvent, and some damage to the male end of the plugs let me get it loose.

Took it to Autzone; there are several here in the Bay area, but none of their testing computers is working. So I just bought for $26 a replacement which I will install tomorrow, but I won't know until then whether this was the problem. So I will keep you posted.

If it still will not start, I will take pictures of the main parts and attach them.

Thanks again,

Jake

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Thursday, December 30th, 2010 AT 12:46 AM
Tiny
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GO BACK AND PICK YOU UP A "CONDIMENT PACKET" OR A TUBE OF "DIELECTRIC GREASE" USE IT ON YOUR CONNECTIONS, ESPECIALLY AFTER THE SOLVENT!

THEN IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH LEFT--UNPLUG YOUR FLOOR DIMMER SWITCH AND SATURATE THE MALE AND FEMALE TERMINALS THERE----SOME TIME IN THE FUTURE YOU WOULD BE GETTING IT DOWN THE ROAD AT NIGHT AND YOUR HEADLIGHTS WOULD HAVE STARTED FLASHING----FINALLY GOING OUT COMPLETELY---YOU WOULD HAVE NO CLUE WHAT TO DO!--YOU WOULD SAY BAD WORDS--YOU WOULD DRIVE WITH NO LIGHTS--YOU WOULD GET STOPPED BY "INSENSITIVE COP"--YOU WOULD BE FINED---YOU WOULD FIND YOUR WINDSHIELD SMASHED, THE NEXT MORNING WHEN YOUR FRIEND DROPPED YOU OFF TO GET HIM. ITS A GOOD THING I WAS TRYING TO HELP YOU OUT HERE. AGAIN, NO ASKY QUESTIONS!

HAVE VOLTMETER AND KNOWLEDGE. WE'RE GONNA TEST MR. COIL NEXT, IF THIS DOESN'T WORK. GIMME SOME ANSWERS ON METER. CLICK ON AND READ MY USER-NAME?

THE MEDIC

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Thursday, December 30th, 2010 AT 2:08 AM
Tiny
KOEBES
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Will do with the dielectric grease.
I have a voltmeter, measures also resistance in Ohm, not too familiar with it, though.
I have the Chilton and Clymer shop manuals for CJ7s

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Thursday, December 30th, 2010 AT 2:17 AM
Tiny
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ROGER,

I CAN TALK YOU THRU IT---IF NEED-BE!

MINES UP IN THE AIR STILL

I'M AT THIS POINT NOW

CLEANING AND TRANNY REBUILD IS SOON TO COME, IN THE NEXT DAY OR TWO

CLUTCH LOOKED FINE

MAKING AN ALBUM OUT OF THIS TOO!

I HAVE EACH STEP IN A PIC!

THE MEDIC

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Thursday, December 30th, 2010 AT 2:39 AM
Tiny
KOEBES
  • MEMBER

I am impressed by your mechanical skills
Well, lot of things happened. The ignigion module was not the problem. Then I did something stupid; someone told me he had a similar problem and it was a bad pick up assembly in the distributor. So I picked up a new unit for $49, removed the old one (without marking the rotor position), and then - after reading the instructions how to install the new one - I realized with a sinking feeling that now I will have to go to the routine of Finding Top Dead Center, #1 Cylinder.
Makes me feel very stupid; my son will be here tomorrow with his timing device. More after that.

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Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 11:59 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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No Problem

2 people---will not take long--Evil Female in you house will do!

Disconnect the COIL so it CANNOT START

Take out #1 Spark plug

WATCH OUT FOR THE FAN!

Stick your Finger/ Thumb in the Empty Hole TIGHTLY!

Evil Woman "BUMPS" the Motor

This is a 4 cycle engine--the crank rotates 2 times (piston up 2 times)for every one time it makes a Cycle

ONE IS EXHAUST STROKE (pushing toward the top)

The other is COMPRESSION STROKE--THIS IS THE ONE WE WANT!

This is the only UPWARD STROKE that both valves are closed and air/ fuel pressure builds up--when it reaches the top, this is TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC)

So here's the deal--when she bumps it and YOU GET A "SPIT OF AIR" by your thumb----STOP STOP STOP! (You may want to practice a time or two, we want the BEGINNING OF THE SPIT--NOT AFTER YOU PASS IT!)

You are headed up, on COMPRESSION!---Beginning of the spit

Now you must turn the engine BY HAND, in the SAME DIRECTION it normally turns---using a socket on the HARMONIC BALANCER NUT and a Ratchet/ pull bar/ pull handle

TURN IT SLOWLY until your TIMING MARKS LINE UP ON "ZERO"

THIS IS TDC!

I HAVE TO EAT NOW, I WILL CONTINUE ALL THE WAY THRU INSTALLING THE DISTRIBUTOR WHEN I RETURN!--THIS WILL GIVE YOU SOMETHING FOR A LITTLE WHILE

THIS IS MY 6 CYLINDER (258) ON 8 DEGREES BEFORE TDC (BTDC) AND THE NEXT PIC IS TDC (ZERO) YOURS IS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT!

Remember this happens twice--only once for the compression stroke

CONFUSED YET?--I CAN RE-EXPLAIN.

THE MEDIC

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Saturday, January 1st, 2011 AT 12:43 AM
Tiny
KOEBES
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You're absolutely great. From knowing very little when looking under the hood I am slowly getting a LITTLE familiar with it and I am beginning to like it - despite the frustration

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Saturday, January 1st, 2011 AT 12:57 AM
Tiny
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OK, I'M GONNA MAKE THIS EZ

"PART 2" IS WHERE YOU ARE AT

THESE ARE THE ONLY THINGS YOU MUST REMEMBER:

WHERE IS YOUR #1 CYLINDER? WHICH SIDE OF THE ENGINE (I WILL MAKE YOU HUNT 1ST, THEN I WILL VERIFY OR SCOLD YOU!)

YOUR "PREFERRED # 1 LOCATION" MAY BE STAMPED ON YOUR DISTRIBUTOR CAP SO TRY TO HAVE THE BUTTON POINTED AT IT WHEN FULLY SEATED (OTHERWISE PICK IT UP AND ROTATE IT A NOTCH OR SO SO IT WILL POINT THERE

INSURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH TRAVEL EITHER WAY OF #1 WITH THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY (THIS IS HOW WE TIME IT LATER, SO IT MUST HAVE SOME TRAVEL WITHOUT HITTING SOMETHING!)

LAST THING--YOU MAY HAVE TO USE A BIG SCREWDRIVER IN THE HOLE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAM OUT OF......THE OIL PUMP IS DOWN AT THE BOTTOM IN THE CENTER...YOU WILL HAVE TO "TWEAK" IT AROUND...IN ORDER FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR TO DROP IN FULLY--ITS SORTA A TRICK TO GET IT RIGHT, TILL YOU DO IT A FEW TIMES

ANYTHING YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND----ASK ME!!!!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a2X9mSSlQY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHX1yXVyIMg&feature=related

YOU MIGHT EVEN LOOK AT MORE OF THESE, THIS ONE IS A CHEVY!

THE MEDIC

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Saturday, January 1st, 2011 AT 1:50 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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AFTER THIS IS IN, WE WILL ATTEMPT TO START, IF IT CRANKS, WE WILL GO INTO SETTING THE TIMING

I WILL HELP YOU THRU THAT TOO

THIS CAME FROM "HARBOR FREIGHT", DO YOU HAVE THESE TUNE-UP TOOLS?

THE MEDIC

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Saturday, January 1st, 2011 AT 1:56 AM
Tiny
KOEBES
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No, but my son might. If not, there is a "harbor freight" next door

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Saturday, January 1st, 2011 AT 4:20 AM
Tiny
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Roger,

Did the YOU TUBE stuff sorta get you in the mode?

The tune up stuff does not have to be that exact kit, most people kinda buy it a piece at a time

The cool thing about the kit is EVERYTHING is in it, and its compact too, the one in the pic belongs to my buddy (I was a piece at a time kinda guy), I will get one soon, just to have a "House Call Kit"

I just got my tranny in and running, ITS NOT RIGHT!---I have that LUMP IN THE THROAT, and STOMACH QUEEZY-NESS FEELING.I fear that one of the THRUST WASHERS SLIPPED OUT FROM THE COUNTERSHAFT, while I was installing it--and now its over-traveling on the shaft. Lots of rattle and a CLACK, when I let off of the gas. And apply it

I will drain the tranny tomorrow and see if I can get mega end play, or not.(Maybe its just the new stuff breaking in. Or not)

. BEFORE I TEAR IT ALL DOWN AGAIN.

I was so CAREFUL, the countershaft gave us the biggest fit, thats why I am thinking thats it.

What have you done up to this point?

Its 01:30 (AM)here, I will be up another 30 minutes before I hit the sack.

The Medic

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Saturday, January 1st, 2011 AT 6:32 AM
Tiny
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I SENT YOU A MESSAGE--CLICK YOUR USERNAME AT THE HOMEPAGE TO RETRIEVE/ RESPOND TO IT

PROGRESS? ANY?

DO NOT CALL YOUR RIG A "CAR"--(NO NEED FOR ME TO SAY "PLEASE" EITHER) I'M SURE YOU REALIZE NOW THAT IT'S DEGRADING--ITS A JEEP/ REAL JEEP/ THE MOST AWESOME VEHICLE EVER MADE. DESERVES A "STRONG MANLY NAME"MY LAST/ PRESENT 2, ARE "WILLY" AND "MR. JEEP". IF YOU NAME "HIM" A SISSY NAME, IT PROJECTS WEAKNESS AND LIMITED ABILITY!

THIS IS A FEW SHOTS OF MY "RANGER HQ ROOM" OR "MY MAN-CAVE" (THE ENTIRE ROOM IS IN A WALMART ALBUM, JUST LIKE MY JEEP MODIFICATIONS) ALL I NEED IS YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS IN "MESSAGE" AND I WILL LET YOU VIEW THEM ALL!

THE MEDIC

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