Suddenly the jeep won't start. It cranks, and there is fuel in the carburator, but it won't fire until the cranking stops, then it seems to fire ONE time. Unplugging the cable that leads from the ignition coil to the distributor from the distributor cap, there is no spark while cranking, but as soon as I stop cranking there is one spark. It has the SSI ignition system
Power the coil positive terminal from the battery positive post and attempt to start and see what happens-if it fires up-replace the ignition switch
December, 28, 2010 AT 6:42 PM
You haven't by chance replaced the coil?
If you have and did not get the one that states "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR". You now have one with a INTERNAL RESISTOR. And now you have Double Resistance! Not enough volts to run the Coil! (Get the 1st one I mentioned)----You do not have a "Normal looking Resistor", your resistor is a Factory Resistance Wire!
Your Final Last Ditch Almost Fire-up---is the "I" terminal of your Solenoid, Suppling Temporary (Momentary)FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to the Coil ONLY WHILE THE KEY IS CRANKING---Then it dies and Reduced Voltage runs the coil--coming thru the ignition switch and on thru the resistance wire to the POS side if the coil
If it is the IGNITION SWITCH GONE BAD and NOT the Wrong Coil---Old time, "Grand Theft Auto" as described by Rasmataz will give you full coil voltage by BY-PASSING the IGNITION SWITCH CIRCUIT.
Before locking steering, this is how you could "JOY RIDE!"
This is what Razmataz means to do, POS BATT to POS COIL
I usually protect my wiring with a fuse (optional). The one pictured is a 15 AMP. Jam a Screwdriver-nail-paperclip in for Coil Terminal Contact
The NEG side of the coil is what you hook to with a TACH or Dwell meter
In my pics, all is hooked up correctly to by-pass the Ignition switch
Imma Big time CJ GUY--I will help you till you are running---Other Issues. Spit 'em out here, no need to resubmit a new question
Ras, I made these weeks ago, and been waiting to try them out!----You sorta beat me here, to my foxhole!
December, 28, 2010 AT 6:49 PM
Sorry Ranger Danger it was open and I attack it didn't mean to do it-You take it from here-You have a Happy New Year 2011 and take care and God bless
December, 28, 2010 AT 6:51 PM
Oh, Yeah I sorta wanted to include this pic to ORIENT where I was at
December, 28, 2010 AT 9:26 PM
No, I didn't replace the ignition coil. I tried to hotwire the car: connect the positive battery pole to the positive side of the coil. Good contact at the coil, I made sure the sharp end had a 12 V charge before jamming it into the positive end of the coil. Cranked, the same: just a one time fire when stop cranking
December, 28, 2010 AT 11:05 PM
OK Buddy before you do this LAST STEP
CLUE US IN--on recent history, fixes, noises etc etc!
On your steering column 12 O'Clock, "other side of your dash" is your IGNITION MODULE (mirror helps, also removing the plastic collar)----IT'S HARD TO GET TOMake sure it is PLUGGED IN WELL
Pour about a 1/2 an ounce of gas down your CARB---Try to start--If it acts a lot better and really tries to start or does, stop at this point and let me know!
Pull your distributor cap and look for WRONG STUFF!
While you are in there FIRMLY try to Twist the rotor button to see if it will turn the shaft (without breaking the plastic) The shaft will normally have CW and CCW play, but if it turns, either the Button is stripped or the Cam Gear roll pin has sheared. Not Good, but fixable!
Look around good for loose/ broken/ melted wires. Especially around intake and exhaust manifolds
Have a buddy crank, while you shake wires around the coil, distributor and ignition module. WATCH OUT FOR MOVING PARTS!
Next step will be Remove and test the IGNITION MODULE
Follow the distributor wires to it----Its about a 6" X 6" X 2" BOX
On an '83 its located on the Firewall near the Master Cylinder---on others it's on the fender
This is the BEST WAY to disconnect the wire--as per Service manual--it sounds like you would mess up your wires--But it won't!
On either side of the Connector, GRASP THE WIRES FIRMLY and PULL. No need to pry with a small screwdriver. Breaks the locks off every time. Don't ask me how I know!
Next take it to Autozone or Advance Auto (maybe others)----they will test it for FREE. They see these rarely, so you might have to help them figure out the hook-up!
Test it 5-8 times repeatedly(this warms them up) if it fails ONCE, Buy a new one!
You know the Deal. TEST THE NEW ONE the same way too, before you leave the store. There's nothing like a No Start, at the house. Then chase GHOSTS for 2 days, then finding out that it was a BAD-NEW MODULE. Again don't open up that chapter either. Been thru the Stores entire inventory before!
I'm here forever!
Return with GOOD NEWS!
Then fire some more at me!
December, 28, 2010 AT 11:18 PM
Thanks. I will do so. By the way, your descriptions and instructions are absolutely fantastic.
As I live in the San Francisco Bay area, where the garage in those old houses doubles as a cellar with no parking space for a car, I work outside on the car. And now we have 2 big rain fronts moving in with flood warnings in the Napa Valley. So it might take some time to get back to with hopefully good news
December, 29, 2010 AT 1:05 AM
Roger, We will not stop, till you're pulling the hills and running over trollies----Click on my name and read---Take it in!---Let me know if you want to see my albums. Put your rain suit on and get your baby going!
"Willy" and "Mr. Jeep"
December, 30, 2010 AT 12:46 AM
Great looking Jeeps! I like especially the beautifully restored WWII Willy's.
Here not much progress; the car has not had any accidents or traumas recently; the ignition box is solidly wired; the rotor arm has a little play, but otherwise stays its place; I finally located the ignition module, and, man, was it difficult to unplu the cables. There was so much grime and dirt, they were baked to each other. I finally used a citrus based solvent, and some damage to the male end of the plugs let me get it loose.
Took it to Autzone; there are several here in the Bay area, but none of their testing computers is working. So I just bought for $26 a replacement which I will install tomorrow, but I won't know until then whether this was the problem. So I will keep you posted.
If it still will not start, I will take pictures of the main parts and attach them.
December, 30, 2010 AT 2:08 AM
GO BACK AND PICK YOU UP A "CONDIMENT PACKET" OR A TUBE OF "DIELECTRIC GREASE" USE IT ON YOUR CONNECTIONS, ESPECIALLY AFTER THE SOLVENT!
THEN IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH LEFT--UNPLUG YOUR FLOOR DIMMER SWITCH AND SATURATE THE MALE AND FEMALE TERMINALS THERE----SOME TIME IN THE FUTURE YOU WOULD BE GETTING IT DOWN THE ROAD AT NIGHT AND YOUR HEADLIGHTS WOULD HAVE STARTED FLASHING----FINALLY GOING OUT COMPLETELY---YOU WOULD HAVE NO CLUE WHAT TO DO!--YOU WOULD SAY BAD WORDS--YOU WOULD DRIVE WITH NO LIGHTS--YOU WOULD GET STOPPED BY "INSENSITIVE COP"--YOU WOULD BE FINED---YOU WOULD FIND YOUR WINDSHIELD SMASHED, THE NEXT MORNING WHEN YOUR FRIEND DROPPED YOU OFF TO GET HIM. ITS A GOOD THING I WAS TRYING TO HELP YOU OUT HERE. AGAIN, NO ASKY QUESTIONS!
HAVE VOLTMETER AND KNOWLEDGE. WE'RE GONNA TEST MR. COIL NEXT, IF THIS DOESN'T WORK. GIMME SOME ANSWERS ON METER. CLICK ON AND READ MY USER-NAME?