1979 Ford F-150 no tension in clutch

Tiny
DREWISHKID87
  • MEMBER
  • 1979 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 94,000 MILES
The clutch has no tension and will not return. The truck will shift gears when it is off, but will not shift when truck is running. I found the clutch return spring broken, and have had a horrible time finding one thats not universal because they havent been fitting right. I did pick up a couple from the hardware store that seem to work better. The clutch does seem to have more tension and I can see the shifter arm actually moving. I have adjusted the clutch and tightened it, maybe has 1/4 left available to tighten. Still wont shift while running unfortunately.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2015 AT 10:25 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It's either a bad clutch like the release bearing has gone through the fingers or the release arm is bent.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2015 AT 10:30 AM
Tiny
DREWISHKID87
  • MEMBER
Just wondering why is it that I can shift gears when truck is not running?
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Sunday, August 9th, 2015 AT 10:48 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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EZ QUESTION!

YET SLIGHTLY COMPLICATED

I'LL TRY TO SIMPLE IT UP!

THIS IS MY 1977 3 SPEED (TREMEC T-150 USED IN FORDS TOO, WAY BACK) JEEP CJ- TRANSMISSION, OF COURSE THERE IS A REVERSE TOO! HERE'S THE "H" PATTERN BELOW

REVooooooo2nd

oooNEUTRAL

1stoooooooo3rd

BEING FOUR WHEEL DRIVE, A TRANSFER CASE IS ATTACHED TO THE REAR OF IT

THIS IS A SIMPLE TRANNY, IT'S 38 YEARS OLD, I REBUILT IT A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO. I RETAINED THE CASE, THE DRAIN PLUG, AND THE OUTPUT GEAR TO THE TRANSFER CASE. EVERY INTERNAL SHAFT/ GEAR/ SHAFT/ AND BEARING WAS REPLACED FOR ABOUT $850 (MY LABOR WAS FREE)

I TOOK PICS ALONG THE WAY

HERE'S THE SCOOP

1) THERE ARE 2 SHIFTER RODS IN THE TOP, EACH MOVES ONE FORK, AND ONLY ONE CAN MOVE AT A TIME (DEPENDENT ON WHICH SIDE THE GEAR SHIFT STICK IS ON [L or R) LEFT BEING 1st AND REVERSE, RIGHT BEING 2nd AND 3rd. SEE 1ST PIC

LOOK CLOSE, THAT SQUARE IN THE MIDDLE IS THE BOTTOM OF THE SHIFTER, THE RODS ARE CUT OUT ON EITHER SIDE FOR IT TO DROP INTO

2) SEE PIC 3) THIS IS THE MAIN SHAFT

THE BIG GROOVES IN EITHER END ARE WHERE THE SHIFT FORKS GO WHEN THE TOP IS INSTALLED

NOTICE WE ONLY HAVE 2 FORWARD GEARS, 1st AND 2nd, THEY USE THE COUNTER SHAFT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CASE TO SORTA "RATIO THE GEAR SPEEDS"

WHAT? NO 3rd GEAR?

THAT'S RIGHT!

WHEN YOU PULL IT BACK INTO "3rd", YOU HAVE ACTUALLY LOCKED THE ENGINE (INPUT SHAFT) TO THE DRIVE SHAFT (OUTPUT SHAFT)

EVERY ENGINE RPM IS NOW THE SAME AS THE DRIIVESHAFT'S RPMS!
J
J
J
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NOW TO TRY TO ANSWER THE QUESTION AT HAND!

REFER TO PIC 3. THIS IS A NORMAL A-OK SITUATION

IF I'M IN NEUTRAL, ENGINE IS RUNNING, CLUTCH PEDAL TO THE TOP

"A" AND "D" ARE TURNING ENGINE RPM

"A" AND "D" ARE IN THEIR NEUTRAL POSITION (AS IN THE PIC)

I PUSH IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL

"A" AND "D" STOP TURNING

TRANNY IS A "ALL STOP"

I SELECT "FIRST GEAR" (STICK GOES TO ME AND LEFT)

THE UNSEEN "SQUARE" IN THE TRANNY TOP, GRABS THE "LEFT RAIL (WHICH ACTUATES THE REAR FORK)

IN THE PIC, "D" MOVES UP (FORWARD). THIS IS THE SYNCRONIZER, THE ONLY THINGS THAT "COUPLE TOGETHER" ARE THEM TEENY-TINY TEETH ON AND BESIDE THE BLOCKING RING ON "GEAR C"

SINCE IT WAS ALL STILL, THE BLOCKING RING DID NOT HAVE TO DO IT'S INTENDED JOB

NOW

WE EASE OUT ON THE CLUTCH, WE ARE MOVING!

NEARLY ALL OF THE GEARS ARE MOVING IN THE TRANNY

WE PUSH IN THE CLUTCH

ON THE WAY TO 2nd, WE PASS NEUTRAL

WE ACTUALLY SWAPPED TO THE RIGHT WITH THE STICK

THE LEFT ROD AND IT'S FORK (FOR 1ST) JUST GOT PUT BACK IN NEUTRAL

WE PICKED UP THE "RIGHT RAIL AND FORK" WHICH OPERATES THE UPPER SYNCHRONIZER ("A") IN PIC 3

IT GETS SHOVED REARWARD (DOWN IN THE PIC) AND COUPLES UP WITH "B" (2nd GEAR) JUST THEM LITTLE TEETH!

AS IT WAS GOING TO COUPLE

THE SYNCRONIZER MOST LIKELY WAS TURNING A DIFFERENT SPEED THAN THE GEAR WAS TURNING

WHEN WE PUSHED THE CLUTCH IN

THE ENGINE GOT DISCONNECTED FROM THE TRANNY

THE "GEARS" AND SHAFTS REMAINED TURNING DUE TO THE DRIVESHAFT WAS STILL ROTATING (AS WE TRAVEL ALONG)

THE KEY THING IS "ONE END OF THE EQUATION CAN TURN FREE" AS IT IS NO LONGER LOCKED TO THE ENGINE

WHEN WE "SHOVED" "A" INTO "B" THE BLOCKING RING ACTS AS A "BRAKE" SO THAT WHEN THEM TEENY TINY TEETH GET ALL LINED UP WITH THEIR HOLES, THEY WILL JUST POP TOGETHER SMOOTHLY!

THE THING HERE TO REMEMBER, IN ORDER FOR THINGS TO "POP TOGETHER" THE ENGINE SIDE OF THE TRANNY MUST BE DISCONNECTED FROM ENGINE (OPERATIONAL CLUTCH) THE TRANNY CAN REMAIN TURNING (WHEELS ROLLING ON THE GROUND) OR EVEN AT A DEAD STOP.

THE ONLY POSSIBLE EXCEPTION TO THIS IS "SPEED SHIFTING" AS YOU ROLL AT THE APPROPRIATE SPEEDS. (BASICALLY CATCHING UP WITH THE ENGINE RPMS)

OR AS IN CASES I'VE BEEN IN BEFORE

PUT IT IN LOW GEAR AND CRANK UP THE JEEP WITH THE STARTER, IT'S AN ALTERNATE WAY TO "LIMP IT IN", IT IMMEDIATELY DRIVES, SNATCHING THE SHIFTER INTO NEUTRAL JUST BEFORE YOU HAVE TO STOP. CUT IT OFF, BACK INTO GEAR, START HIM UP TO CONTINUE TO LIMP IN!

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, August 9th, 2015 AT 2:19 PM

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