Need help getting my Jeep started. Dont know where to start on the troubleshooting

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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1st THING YOU NEED TO DO IS INSPECT THE SHOES AND PADS AT ALL 4 WHEELS

REQUIRES REMOVING THE WHEELS AND DRUMS---ACTUALLY LOOKING AT HOW MUCH IF THE LINING IS THERE----AND SHOULD ANYTHING BE REPLACED

DO YOU HAVE DRUM BRAKES ALL THE WAY AROUND AS I DO ON MY '77?

POWER OR MANUAL BRAKES?

THE '79 I HAD, HAD FRONT DISC---YOURS IS IN-BETWEEN SO YOU TELL ME!

AFTER THIS WE NEED TO DETERMINE IF YOUR MASTER CYLINDER WORKS

I MYSELF RECOMMEND THAT YOU REPLACE IT ANYWAY

YOU DO NOT KNOW IT'S HISTORY. HOW LONG WILL IT LAST?

---AND STOPPING IS AN IMPORTANT THING TO DO!

CHECK OTHER STORES---SPEND WHAT YOU WANT--I FIND NOTHING WRONG WITH A RE-MANUFACTURED PART

LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU GOT (MY QUESTIONS)

I WILL ASSIST W/ REPLACING SHOES ETC (THE CORRECT WAY)

ALSO HOW TO BLEED CORRECTLY

WAITIN' ON YOU!

THE MEDIC

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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 12:19 AM
Tiny
NHERRING1991
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I have manual brakes. Pad and shoes all around are good. Enough. Im not familiar with "drum brakes" so I do not know. I may have found the problem. You will see in the attached picture o_O

Picture 1: My master cylinder. Slightly rusted wouldnt ya say? Its weird because I had brakes when I first got the jeep. There are 2 sections of the master cylinder. The back section had a water substance in it. The front section was empty. Does the front one control my front brakes?

Picture 2: My throttler. The way my throttle is sits pretty comfortably but it idles at a high rpm. When I literally push down on the throttle right at the carb, the it idles at a low rpm. So I either need 1. A really strong spring to hold the throttle or 2. A adjustment. You tell me :)

P.S. Like the way I attached my throttle cable to my carb? ;)

Picture 3. Home made glove box insert. Pretty cool eh?

Picture 4. Starting to put sheet metal on top of my floor.

Picture 5. Spray painted with 99. A bottle spray paint from Walmart. Covered surprisingly well.

Picture 6. My current daily driver. The picture was to mainly focus on the light bar when I installed it but only picture I had of the truck in day light.

We're getting close!

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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 4:14 AM
Tiny
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ALL RIGHTY THEN

FLOOR IS LOOKING GOOD!

PAINT TOO !

DO WHAT YOU GOTTA DO W/ THROTTLE

YOU MIGHT TRY CLEANING AND LUBING THE SHAFT THRU THE CARB---SO IT CLOSES BETTER

YOU CAN TRY A DIFFERENT SPRING---OR CUT SOME COILS OFF OF THAT ONE

MASTER CYLINDER IS A DEFINITE REPLACE

I WOULD FOR SURE, BLEED ABOUT A FULL BIG BOTTLE OF BRAKE FLUID THRU EACH HALF OF THE RESERVOIR

WATER ANY WHERE IN THE SYSTEM IS BAD!

DEPENDING ON HOW THE WHEEL CYLINDERS OPERATE, THEY MAY NEED REPLACING TOO

DO YOU HAVE FRONT DISC AND REAR DRUM BRAKES OR DO YOU HAVE DRUM BRAKES ON ALL WHEELS?

KEEP IT GOING

I'LL HELP YOU WITH THE BRAKES

YOUR GLOVE BOX LOOKS GOOD----NEED A SHELF IN IT LIKE MINE!

MY DECALS ARE STUCK/ OR GLUED ON OLD REFRIGERATOR MAGNETIC CALENDERS, TRIMMED OFF, AND ARE "MOVE-ABLE" ALL OVER MY DASH

THE MEDIC

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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 6:01 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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I HAVE BEEN LOOKING ALL OVER YOU TUBE FOR YOUR "EXACT" BRAKE SET UP, THIS LINK IS THE MOST PERFECT ANIMATION OF A CJ OR FORD SET UP THAT I CAN FIND

THIS IS THE DRIVERS SIDE FRONT OR REAR, IF BOTH AXLES HAVE DRUM BRAKES---PASSENGER SIDE IS OPPOSITE OR A MIRROR OF THISKEEP IN MIND FRONT OF VEHICLE IS TO THE "LEFT" IN THIS VIDEO

PRIMARY SHOE IS THE ONE W/ THE SHORTER PAD---NO MATTER WHAT WHEEL YOU ARE WORKING ON, THIS SHOE IS CLOSEST TO THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE!

SECONDARY SHOE IS THE ONE W/ THE LONGEST PAD---NO MATTER WHAT WHEEL YOU ARE WORKING ON, THIS SHOE GOES CLOSEST TO THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE!

WHEN YOU GET NEW SHOES--2 WILL BE LONG --2 WILL BE SHORT---A LONG AND A SHORT GO ON EACH SIDE OF YOUR RIG #### NOT 2 LONG ON ONE SIDE, AND 2 SHORT ON THE OTHER! ####

USE THE OTHER SIDE AS A REFERENCE--IT IS A "MIRROR IMAGE"--NOT A COPY. LEFT SIDE STUFF IS NOT INTERCHANGEABLE W/ RIGHT SIDE STUFF

IF JOE DUM BUNNY PUT YOUR BRAKES TOGETHER WRONG--LOOKING AT THE OTHER SIDE AIN'T GONNA HELP!---THE VIDEO ABOVE IS ABOUT AS PERFECT AS A CJ PARTS ARE SHOWN. GO BY IT, IF YOU HAVE PROBLEMS W/ PARTS PLACEMENT!

NOW BELOW IS ANOTHER VIDEO--##### IT IS NOT YOUR BRAKES! #####---IT IS A GOOD VIDEO, SO FAR I HAVE NOT FOUND ONE THIS GOOD IN QUALITY OR EXPLANATIONS. IT IS A VERY GOOD GUIDE! IT ALSO GOES INTO "KNIT PICKY" STUFF THAT I DO.

REMEMBER, LOOK AT WHAT SPRINGS CAME OFF 1ST--THEY GO BACK ON LAST

LOOK AT SELF ADJUSTER PLACEMENT (1ST VIDEO IS A BIG HELP)

IT IS IMPORTANT TO ADJUST YOUR SELF ADJUSTERS (W/ FINGERS, DRUM OFF) CLOSE TO THE DRUM DIAMETER. I USUALLY TAKE OUT ALL PLAY LIKE THAT, TAKING THE DRUM OFF AND ON SEVERAL TIMES---DRUM GOES ON RELATIVELY EZ (NO FORCING!) W/ A SLIGHT DRAGTHIS CAN BE DONE FROM THE BACKSIDE, REMOVE DUST COVER, USE A "BRAKE SPOON"

SPIN TIRE TO "FEEL OR HEAR" DRAG OR SCUFF

TIGHTEN SHOES OUTWARD---TIP OF SPOON DOWN (INSIDE BRAKE BACKING), YOUR END UPLEVER DOWNWARD

IF YOU NEED TO LOOSENUSE A SMALL SCREWDRIVER PUSHING THE ADJUSTER PLATE OFF OF THE STARWHEEL---AT SAME TIME TIP OF SPOON GOES HIGH ON STARWHEEL, LEVER UPWARD ON YOUR END!

THE LOOSENING THING IS NOT REAL EZ--YOU HAVE A SCREWDRIVER AND A BRAKE SPOON CRAMMED IN THE SAME HOLE

I HAVE ALSO FOUND "SPOONS" COME W/ DIFFERENT BENDS--SOME ARE EZer TO USE THAN OTHERS.I'VE EVEN MADE MY OWN, HEATING AND BENDING OLD SCREWDRIVERS.

NORMALLY THE "TEST FITTING" OF THE DRUM OVER AND OVER WORKS THE BEST---EVEN BETTER IF YOUR DRUMS HAVE BEEN RESURFACED (I RECOMMEND IF THEY ARE GROOVED OR HAVE A "LIP" ON THEM) SHOULD RUN ABOUT $5-$10 PER DRUM

SOME CRAP ON HIS BRAKES ARE NOT ON YOURS!---JUST BEAR WITH THE PROCESS----IT SHOULD BE CLOSE ENOUGH FOR YOU TO CATCH ON!

THIS IS CRITICAL "LIFE OR DEATH STUFF" (SO IS STEERING)IF YOU NEED A LITTLE VOICE ASSISTANCE OR WOULD LIKE TO TALK ABOUT ANY OF THIS---LET ME KNOW---I "MESSAGE YOU" OR YOU "MESSAGE ME". SO WE CAN LINK UP

DOIN' WONDERFUL!

THE MEDIC

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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 5:08 PM
Tiny
DUSTER7071
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Cj medevac, good info, wish I would have had some a few years ago for this 78 i've been working on for a friend ! Went to move it after sitting in one spot for a couple years, it fired, ran fine for ten min, warmed up perfect, fast idle kicked off and everything, lol, moved it back 10' it died, so thanks for link to the other thread, going out to try the elec tests, I think it may be ign module? If you have any ideas /links after it is running, i'd like to figure out why it out of nowhere abruptly pulls left, fast? I, prob like many others, will check in on this thread, it is good and appearantly common info us newbies to the cj need !
Hrdchgr69@aol. Com

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Monday, December 12th, 2011 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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DANG FELLER!

LOOKS LIKE YOU'RE A LOCAL!

HERE'S SOMETHING YOU COULD DO---WOULD HELP ME ALOT

I HAVE "CRS", AND AM PRESENTLY HELPING THIS AND ONE OTHER CJ (HADN'T HAD AN UP DATE IN DAYS ON EITHER!)

HOW 'BOUT JUMPING ON THE HOME PAGE AND STARTING A NEW ONE (FREE OR DONATION, I GIVE THE SAME ADVICE FOR EITHER!)

THIS WOULD KEEP ME STRAIGHT ON TO WHOM I'M ADVISING---AND WHAT POINT WE ARE AT IN THE FIX

NOT TRYIN' TO BE DIFFICULT! JUST BETTER ABLE TO ASSIST YA'LL

WHEN YOU SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION IT'S SORTA LIKE DROPPING PART OF YOUR BURGER ON THE GROUND, NEXT TO THE AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM IN WASHINGTON D.C.----THE SKY TURNS DARK AND THE BILLIONS OF LITTLE BIRDIES SWARM ON IT IN A FEEDING FRENZY, AIN'T NO STOPPIN' THEM, SORTA FRIGHTENING!

SO IF YOU WANT "ME" TO GRAB YOUR QUESTION, PLEASE REQUEST ME IN THE TITLE OR THE BEGINNING OF YOUR QUESTION!

SORRY, I GET ALL EXCITED AND SOMETIMES GET AHEAD OF MYSELF, AND THINGS MAY GET CONFUSING. STOP ME AND ASK, IF THIS BE THE CASE!

FOR ABOUT THE LAST 2 YEARS, I HAVE BEEN SNATCHING UP MOST OF THE CJ5s, CJ7s, AND SOME SCRAMBLERS. THIS IS THE AREA I HAVE THE MOST EXPERIENCE IN.

YOU MIGHT ALSO GO THE THE CAR LISTS ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THIS PAGE NEAR THE TOP. CLICK ON JEEP, THEN ON CJ5, 7, OR SCRAMBLER AND MAYBE INVESTIGATE SOME OF THOSE POSTS. CJ 7 HAS THE MOST POSTS. CJ 5 ALSO GOES BACK BEFORE 1976 (CJ5s WERE A BIT DIFFERENT BACK THEN), SO THERE MAYBE THINGS THERE, THAT '76-'86 DOES NOT HAVE

PLEASE CONTINUE W/ NEW POST, CJs DO NOT POP IN HERE OFTEN, AS THEY ARE THE BEST CONSTRUCTED VEHICLES IN THE WORLD.

AND PLEASE INCLUDE ALL OF YOUR PROBLEMS AND SYMPTOMS---AND EVERYTHING THAT YOU HAVE DONE AND ARE SURE YOU TESTED 100% CORRECTLY

SEE YOU THERE duster7071

THE MEDIC

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Monday, December 12th, 2011 AT 7:26 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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OK YA'LL, GETTING CLOSE TO CRUNCH TIME

WHAT YA'LL GONNA GET ME FOR FOR CHRISTMAS?

IT'S BEEN SOME TIME SINCE I HAVE HEARD FROM YOU NHerring1991

AIN'T SEEN A NEW QUESTION POP UP FROM YOU EITHER duster7071

HASN'T BEEN A LOT OF OLDER RIGS ON HERE THAT I COULD ANSWER, THAT'S WHY I LIKE IT WHEN THERE'S SOME CJ ACTION GOING ON

YA'LL HAVE A MERRY CHRISTMAS

THE MEDIC

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Friday, December 23rd, 2011 AT 3:08 PM
Tiny
NHERRING1991
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Medic Medic! Do you copy!

How has it been? Sorry I haven't posted in a while! How have you been? Any new car purchases lately?

Let me bring you up to date with my hunting machine. She runs like a beauty. Purrs like a kitten. And looks like death ha. I gave up on the tuning and took it to my mechanic. He tuned it up for a hundred bucks and set the idles and all that good stuff. It is now a turn key vehicle. :) If you remember the older pictures I sent over, I didn't have doors. Well I made doors for it. I call them the rib breakers. But they work great!

I need to replace my muffler. It has rusted out :( And is LOUD! I was very worried about it scaring away the deer. That will be my next goal. Also, none of my gauges work. Is that when a whole new wiring harness comes into play?

Let me quit the chit chat and send you some pictures.

Picture 1: Home made shifter ****. I drill a 3/8" hole in a 4 dollar cue ball from walmart, filled it with JB weld, and glued it onto my shifter. Looks good and feels great.

Picture 2 and 3: My door. Used a gate latch from ace hardware. Works great. I can hop outta the jeep, take off running and just slam the 2"x2" steel tube and it latches right into place. Since I don't have seat belts, Without a bar there, I really have nothing to hold onto. So the bar is a nice secure hand held.

Picture 4: My grandpa welded my windshield on. He was a welder for the union for 30 something years.

The brakes, I never ended up replace my master cylinder. But my brakes are working great. I keep a bottle of brake fluid in the tool box just in case it starts to run low. As a hunting jeep, the brakes are good enough. I rarely use them as I can just down shift to slow down.

I found out my radiator had a leak in it so I bought a bottle of stop leak and now it holds like its brand new.

Talk to you soon!

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Wednesday, January 18th, 2012 AT 11:26 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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THE K. NOB WORKS WELL (ANYTHING THAT COULD BE MISCONSTRUED INTO A EVIL MEANING GET'S AXED BY THE AUTOMATIC SENSOR, SUCH AS: MY M. OTHERS CAR IS BROKEN!)

I BELIEVE I WOULD TRACE OUT WIRES BEFORE ATTEMPTING A NEW HARNESS!

I DID SEND YOU MY WIRING HARNESS DIAGRAMS I COLORED IN MICROSOFT PAINT?

A TEST LIGHT AN A VOLTMETER IS ALL YOU NEED

IF YOU EMAIL THE DIAGRAMS TO A OFFICE STORE, THEY CAN BLOW IT UP AND LAMINATE IT FOR YOU. THIS WOULD MAKE THINGS REALLY EZ, IT'S NOT TOO EXPENSIVE

YOU WILL FIND THAT A "CHINA MARKER", GREASE PENCIL, OR ERASABLE MARKES---WITH THE DIAGRAM AT THE JEEP, WILL HELP YOU TRACE BETTER THAN RUNNING BACK AND FORTH TO THE COMPUTER!

THE RIGHT DIAGRAM OVERLAPS THE LEFT---THE BEST WHEN YOU TRIM AND CONNECT THEM

I HAVE JUST INSTALLED MY SPEEDO GAUGES ABOUT 8 TIMES NOW (FUEL AND ELECTRIC TEMP)

I BOUGHT A SET AND FEARED I MESSED THEM UP SOMEHOW (SO I BLAMED ME) I BOUGHT ANOTHER SET A FEW WEEKS LATER, A "SET" IS AROUND $40. SAME THING, PEGS, START FLUCTUATING, FINALLY DIE, TAP ON THE GLASS THEY WAKE UP AND GO THRU THE SAME MOTIONS!

OVER THE YEARS I HAVE PROBABLY PUT IN 20 OR MORE SETS (MINE AND PEOPLE I HELPED). THE LITERATURE THAT CAME WITH THESE NEW ONES ("RUGGED RIDGE", SOME HOW AFFILIATED WITH "OMIX-ADA") SAID TO HAVE A "QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN" INSTALL THEM.I CANNOT THINK OF A SINGLE SOUL WITHIN 50 MILES TO TAKE IT TO!

SO FAR I TESTED ALTERNATOR OUTPUT, EVEN LET ADVANCE AUTO CHECK TOO. ALL IS GOOD

MY ENGINE, FRAME, BODY GROUNDS ARE GOOD.I EVEN JUMPERED STRAIGHT OFF OF NEG BATTERY TO THE GAUGE

I USED ANOTHER NEW "LOOSE" FUEL SENDING UNIT, JUMPERED IN

PRESENTLY AWAITING NEWS FROM THE MANUFACTURER VIA WHERE I PURCHASED THEM FROM ON-LINE. THEY ARE HOOKED UP RIGHT--NO DOUBT!

THE FUEL GAUGE HAS A CONSTANT VOLTAGE REGULATOR (CVR) BUILT INTO IT---THIS WORKS SORTA LIKE A TRANSFORMER, IN THAT IT REDUCES SYSTEM VOLTAGE DOWN TO ABOUT 5 VOLTSTHIS 5 VOLTS RUNS THE FUEL GAUGE, AND "JUMPERS" OVER TO RUN THE TEMP GAUGE TOO. I REALLY THINK THAT IT IS THE WHOLE PROBLEM.

IF I CAN'T GET THESE, OR REPLACEMENTS FOR THESE, TO WORK, I HAVE A FEW OLD ONES, THAT MAY WORK. I WILL HAVE TO RE-PAINT THE FACED FACES AND THE NEEDLES

NEVER SEEN A DOOR SYSTEM LIKE THAT! KINDA FLAT WHERE YOU LIVE, I'M GUESSING A RIFLE REST NOW. NOT SO MUCH AS KEEPING SOMEONE IN?

I'M GLAD YOU KEEP UPDATING (OUR BOSS SAID OUR "THREADS" ARE INFINITE, SO KEEP ON SENDING STUFF, WHEN EVER YOU WANT!

IT DEFINITELY HAS CHANGED SINCE YOU 1ST POSTED!

THE MEDIC

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Thursday, January 19th, 2012 AT 2:55 AM
Tiny
NHERRING1991
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MAYDAY MAYDAY! I need a medic! Pronto!

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Thursday, August 23rd, 2012 AT 11:20 AM
Tiny
NHERRING1991
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How's it goin CJ MEDEVAC? Hunting season is right around the corner and I've been doing work on the jeep. Made a custom center console with stereo and LEDs to light up the inside. Adding a bench seat in the bed of the cj7 and added cushion protection to my roll bars and home made "doors." After sitting for 3 months, she started up like a boss.
Just one problem. It's leaking some kind of sludgy oily substance from underneath. From research I've been doing, I think it might be gear oil from the transmission. I'm thinking it might be a bad seal but I'm not sure.

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Thursday, August 23rd, 2012 AT 11:28 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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YOU GOTTA FIGURE OUT WHERE IT IS ORIGINATING FROM!

I'VE BEEN BUSY. SORRY IT TOOK ME SO LONG!

YOU'VE BEEN SORTA SCARCE TOO!

1ST THING. YOU NEED TO TOP OFF ALL OF YOUR FLUIDS--UNDER THE HOOD AND THE DRIVE-TRAIN. IF YOU ARE LOST, LET ME KNOW, I'LL TALK YOU THRU IT.

DO THIS 1ST, SO WE CAN FIND ANY AND ALL OF THE LEAKS (IF SOMETHING IS LOW, IT MAY NOT LEAK)

NOW THAT YOU HAVE MADE A GREASY MESS UNDER THERE, AND EVERYBODY IS TOPPED OFF

. LETS CLEAN IT ALL UP

USE "PURPLE POWER". SPRAY BOTTLE OR 1-5 GALLON CONTAINERS, PUT INTO A PUMP UP SPRAYER. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIND THE SIZE OF "PP" YOU WANT AT "ADVANCE AUTO"

*****KEEP IT OFF OF YOUR PAINT!*******

VENTILATION IS NICE TOO. IT CHOKES ME UP WHEN I'M CONFINED!

IF IT DOES ACCIDENTALLY GET ON THERE. IF YOU RINSE YOUR BODY PRETTY SOON, OR ALONG THE WAY, YOU OUGHTTA BE FINE. IT TAKES A FEW MINUTES FOR IT TO START MESSING STUFF UP

YOU CAN DO THE >>>>>>>ENGINE, AND ALL UNDERNEATH<<<<<<<<. BRUSH HEAVY AREAS OF "GOO" WITH A STIFF BRISTLE BRUSH OR EVEN A WIRE BRUSH

GIVE IT 5-10 MINUTES TO EAT ON IT. BRUSH DURING THIS TIME!

IF YOU HAVE A PRESSURE WASHER. GREAT!

OR DO THIS AT THE CAR WASH

A GARDEN HOSE W/ SPRAYER WORKS OK TOO. MAYBE A LITTLE MORE BRUSHING. OR MORE "PP TREATMENTS" MAY BE NECESSARY.I USE THIS LATTER METHOD A LOT, IF I CANNOT MAKE IT TO THE CAR WASH

LET'S NOT GO CRAZY AROUND THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP WITH THE WATER (LETS JUST RINSE IT WELL). BUT STILL YOU MAY HAVE TO SNATCH IT OFF AND DRY OUT THE INSIDE OF THE CAP. SYMPTOMS OF A WET CAP IS. SKIPPING AND BUCKING (SAME AS GETTING IN A GOOD MUD HOLE!)

GET IT AS CLEAN AS YOU CAN. RUST SORTA DON'T MATTER, AS LONG AS IT'S CLEAN RUST!

RINSE THE BODY AGAIN. JUST IN CASE OF SPLATTERS

NOW. LETS FIND A NEARBY DIRT ROAD. PUT HIM IN 4X4.H OR L DOES NOT MATTER

A FEW MILES SHOULD DO IT. TAKE HIM HOME AND LOOK FOR LEAKS. GOOD PICS WOULD BE NICE!

LOOK GOOD AT BOTH ENDS OF BOTH DRIVE SHAFTS. COVERS. ETC

LOOK WAY UP THERE, IT COULD BE RUNNING DOWN FROM UP HIGHER

BELOW,

1ST PIC IS PURPLE POWER

2ND-3RD IS PUMP FOR INSTALLING GEAR JUICE---A FEW BUCKS AT THE PARTS STORE

4TH--LEAKING REAR PINION SEAL

5TH--REAR OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL ON THE TRANSFER CASE LEAKING

IT MIGHT EVEN BE EZier TO REMOVE THE SKID PLATE TO CLEAN IT UP---RE-INSTALL---REMOVE AGAIN TO EZily GET TO SEALS

SUPPORT THE BELL HOUSING W/ A BLOCK OF WOOD TO DISTRIBUTE THE WEIGHT, THEN USE A JACK/ JACK STAND TO TAKE THE WEIGHT OFF OF THE SKID PLATE---REMOVE THE SKID PLATETHIS REALLY LET'S YOU GET IN THERE. SEE THE REST OF THE PICS

I CAN GUIDE YOU THRU SEAL REPLACEMENTS

FIND 'EM NOW!

THE MEDIC

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Friday, August 24th, 2012 AT 6:19 AM
Tiny
NHERRING1991
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I got under the jeep to start cleaning up a little. Got a little optismitic last night about 12am and tried to remove the skid plate. 2 bolts stripped out! :( The others were extremely tight but was able to hammer the wrench until they broke loose. The other two got rounded off by the bolt. Thinkin about just taking a grinder to them. What do you think?
I'm attaching some pictures and will describe each picture.

1 Picture - center console with 2 speakers. One in the front and one in the back. Picture was taken before it was installed and finished.

2. Center console installed. Added a strip of led lights under one side and a holder for the stereo. Need to water proof it! Any suggestions?

3. Another picture of console. Added 2 toggle switches. One for the stereo since my ignition doesnt work. Dont want having the stereo on kill the battery. Second is for the leds I added.

4. Bench seat I welded together for the back of the cj. Gets kind of crowded having 4 people in the jeep so hopefully this will free up some room.

The rest of the pictures are all where the fluid is leaking from. (Whatever is right above the skid plate).
The last picture is the fluid on the ground. No idea what it is.

Need to get that skid plate off so I can get to SCRUBBING!

Thanks for the quick emergency response!
Nathan

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Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 1:04 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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BOX LOOKS GOOD. SOME PICS DIDN'T MAKE IT IN?

WATERPROOF. SEND ME AN OBLIQUE VIEW OF THE BOXES TOP (EVEN SORTA INSTALLED).I'LL ATTEMPT AN ANSWER

I MADE YOU A PIC---MY COLOR CHOICES (LIKE BLUE) MAY NOT BE READ---LET ME KNOW IF YOU FULLY UNDERSTAND THE WAY TO FIX YOUR BROKEN SKID PLATE STUDS

THE JUICE MAY BE FROM ANYWHERE--RUNNING ON TOP OF THE PLATE UNTIL IT FINDS A HOLE TO FALL THRU

MY TRANNY/TRANSFER/PLATE----PURPLE POWER--BRUSH--CAR WASH--THEN PAINT. THAT'S ALL I USED

PLEASE DON'T REMOVE YOUR TRANNY AND TRANSFER CASE, THERE IS A SPECIAL WAY TO DO IT. THE BEARINGS INSIDE THE TRANNY WILL FALL APART (AND YOU WON'T REALIZE IT). THEN WE WILL BE ON HERE A LONG TIME!

MAYBE I FORGOT. WHAT'S WRONG W/ THE IGN SWITCH AGAIN?

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

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Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 2:06 AM
Tiny
DUSTER7071
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Stil o $$ here, jee just siting behind the barn for now, herring, chek ebay for 'marine radio', 'marine' speakers':)

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Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 2:38 AM
Tiny
NHERRING1991
  • MEMBER

Sorry about the pictures not coming through. They are irrelevant now! :)
Removed my skid plate (what a job). Was able to remove 4 of the 6 bolts. 2 striped out on me. Reinstalled 2 bolts so that when I grinded down the 2 striped bolts, the whole skid plate didnt drop. Got one side down. Beautiful. The other side, the bolt was the middle of the 3 so I could not get my grinder to the bolt without chopping the skid plate. So I had to drill it out. In the whole process of moving the jeep to the center of the garage so I could get the creeper around the jeep, I forgot to put my safety bolt back in :/ well I drilled out the bolt and slam! The skid plate comes crashing down. Luckily I used a spare car rim under the skid plate so it only dropped a few inches. Anywho.I got under the jeep, drained my gear fluid and splash! About a quart of crystal clear water comes spueing out, followed by a splash of thick thick nasty brown gear fluid. Disgusting looking stuff. So I went ahead and removed the gear box? Cover and began removing the bad disingrated rubber gasket. So thats where I am now. How can I clean out my gear box? Whats the technical word for that?

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Tuesday, August 28th, 2012 AT 1:47 AM
Tiny
NHERRING1991
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My radio/center console. Right now I just have a piece of plywood as the lid. Need something a little better/waterproof and/or ideas of how to add a cushion to the lid for the arm rest.

Picture 1: My stereo box.

Picture 2: My custom rollbar cushions. Pool noodles sliced down the middle then wrapped in duck tape. Fancy eh? Now just add a JC Whitney sticker and people will think they're professionally added! Ha

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Tuesday, August 28th, 2012 AT 1:51 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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GOTTA LOVE THE WATER THING! IT'S NOT VERY GOOD LUBRICANT, SO DON'T INSTALL ANY MORE INTO IT!

HAVE YOU DONE THE DIFFS YET?

REMOVING THE COVERS IS THE ONLY WAY TO DO IT RIGHT. IT'S IMPOSSIBLE TO S. UCK THEM "CLEAN" THRU THE FILL HOLES

THE FRONT DIFF IS NO BIG DEAL. IT HAS HEX HEAD BOLTS

THE REAR IS A PAIN!

DON'T ATTEMPT THE REAR YET.I WILL SHOW YOU HOW TO GET OUT THE DANGED TORX SCREWS, SO THAT YOU DON'T BREAK ANYTHING, MAKING THINGS WORSE. THEY LOOK INNOCENT ENOUGH, BUT THEY ARE REALLY "EVIL SCREWS"! I HAVE A PROVEN METHOD FOR REMOVING THEM. I GOTTA SHOOT A PIC OR TWO SO YOU WILL FULLY UNDERSTAND!

PIC OF MY CONSOLE, I PICKED UP SEVERAL WHILE I WAS IN 1ST RANGER BATTALION. IT'S A PERFECT FIT, THE REAR OF IT SITS ON THE BACK FLOORBOARD. I HAVE IT BOLTED FROM UNDER THE JEEP.

YOUR JEEP IS REALLY COMING RIGHT ALONG!

KEEP THE INFO COMING

THE MEDIC

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Tuesday, August 28th, 2012 AT 3:37 AM
Tiny
NHERRING1991
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I like that cushion!
I haven't even started with the front and rear diffs yet. Not even positive what those are.
But still on the gear box, what's the best way to clean the rest of the GUNK out of there? Is purple power still acceptable on the gears? Should I not bother and just replace the seals and refill the gear fluid? Or try to do some deep cleaning?

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Tuesday, August 28th, 2012 AT 7:00 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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NO PP IN THE BOX!

USE CARB OR BRAKE CLEANER. AUTO ZONE "VALUE CRAFT" CARB CLEANER BEATS 'EM ALL, HANDS DOWN, FOR EFFECTIVENESS

I CAN GIVE A CARB A QUICK ONCE OVER----WAIT A FEW MINUTES, HIT IT AGAIN, AND IT'S PRETTY DARN CLEAN. HAVING USED ONLY A 1/4 OF THE CAN

THE "OTHER GUYS" MAY TAKE 2-3 CANS TO GET THE SAME RESULTS. IF EVEN THAT GOOD

A "DIFF" IS A "DIFFERENTIAL". HOG HEAD. THIRD MEMBER. PUMPKIN BALL. REAR END OR FRONT END. OR THAT BIG SWELLED UP, BULGING THINGEE, SORTA IN THE MIDDLE OF YOUR FRONT AND REAR AXLE HOUSING!

THEY MAY BE WORSE THAN THE TRANSFER AND TRANNY!

DO THE FRONT

LET ME EXPLAIN AND SHOW PICS FOR THE REAR, BEFORE YOU DIVE IN! I GOTTA TAKE PICS OF SOMEONE ELSE'S. YOU'LL SEE WHY

I FORGOT TO MENTION

MY CUSHION HAS 2 PIECES OF FLAT INSULATION INSTEAD OF FOAM. THIS INSULATION IS THE SAME MATERIAL AS THAT "BLACK PIPE INSULATION" (ARMAFLEX, OR RUBBATEX) THIS FLAT STUFF IS USED TO INSULATE "BIG" PIPES (IMMA PLUMBER) A BIG INSULATION COMPANY MAY HAVE SCRAPS. MINE WERE LIKE 3' X 4' ORIGINALLY, I SORTA PICKED UP SCRAPS THE "INSULATORS" LEFT BEHIND

I CHOSE THIS SOFT, BUT FIRM, MATERIAL SO MY ARM WOULD NOT SINK INTO THE CUSHION (SWEAT, PERSPIRATION). YOU MIGHT FIND A SIMILAR "FLAT" MATERIAL IN THE SWIMMING POOL SECTION (SOME SORT OF CHEAP FLOATEE!)

I'M OPEN FOR QUESTIONS. DID I GIVE YOU MY NUMBER IN PRIVATE MESSAGES?

THE MEDIC

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Tuesday, August 28th, 2012 AT 7:33 PM

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