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MORE: Car vibration questions
Auto Vibration Problems - This category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 1998 Chevrolet Astro, mileage: 139,881. Two years
ago the engine was replaced in my van. Immediately this problem started. It run
and rides smooth when moving, but when I apply the braked at a full stop and sit
with my foot on the brake peddle to keep it from moving such as at a stop light,
it vibrates so hard that it shakes the whole van. When I take my foot off the brake
and accelerate, the vibration stops. Then, when I stop again, it starts again. You
can even hear the vibration. Help, no one seems to know what is causing this.
I first was told it was the motor mounts, but that was not the case.
Answer: Your engine is equipped with an internal balance shaft.
The vibration is likely caused by an improperly installed balance shaft.
Question: 1998 Honda Accord, mileage: 133,400. Sudden acceleration
from a full stop causes loud and violent vibration, shake or wheel hop sensation.
This is especially likely if wheels are angled even a bit. This stops as soon as
you get off the accelerator. Drives beautifully otherwise. The dealer found no problem
on a test drive, but I don't know how thorough the drive was.
Answer: Your problem sounds like a CV joint has failed on one of the drive
axles.
Question: 2001 Ford Explorer, mileage: 135,000. There is a
vibration that happens when I hit 2000 rpm. It doesn't matter what gear the trans
is in or how fast the car is moving. The only thing that matters is the load. Going
up a hill the vibration is worse. It is felt through the gas and brake pedals and
steering wheel. The dealer changed the muffler, realigned the engine and trans,
and says that's all they can do. Called Ford and they said "its a known problem
with no known fix"
Answer: It sounds like a engine miss-fire, scan the PCM for
trouble codes to tell you which cylinder is failing.
Question: 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager, mileage: 55,000. Steering wheel
vibration at 70 mph. Brought the van in 3 times for wheel balancing but vibration
still exists when I reach 70. Last time in for balancing they told me that they
saw some tire feathering and that perhaps I needed new struts and shocks. Is this
possible with only 55,000 carefully driven miles?
Answer: CV joints that are starting to fail will cause a vibration
like what you are experiencing. Your struts and shocks are not the cause of the
feathering. Improper wheel alignment can cause tires to feather, however. There
are three adjustments for wheel alignment, caster, camber and toe in/toe out.
Question: 1997 Chevrolet 1500, Mileage: 143,000. Lately, I have been experiencing
a light shudder (vibration) at speeds of about 35 mph to 60 mph, but usually at
between 50 mph and 55 mph. I have not done any work to the front axles or tranny,
but I had to replace the original engine because of a mechanic messing up the original
engine. And that is an other story, a long one. But this vibration worries me in
that something might go "BOOM" and that I may have to replace the engine again.
The new engine and repairs cost me approximate $4000.00. It all started with that
mechanic replacing the fan clutch and the intake manifold, which was leaking. I
think he may have installed the distributor wrong, that is, not seated properly.
I drove it for about 30 miles before I noticed that the temperature was getting
up above 250 degrees. I stopped, called a wrecker, had it towed to the mechanic's
shop. After he checked the oil in the crankcase he/they found particles of metal
in the oil. After the new engine was installed, I had to take the truck back to
them because it kept getting hot. It turned out that the new engine was not properly
timed. After driving with the new engine and after about 400 miles I started to
feel the above-mentioned vibration. This vibration is felt throughout the cab, steering
wheel, seats but I do not seem to feel a vibration on the tranny shifter.
Answer: Try to isolate the source of the vibration. With the truck stopped
and the transmission in park, rev the engine to the rpm that you normally get the
vibration at. If there is a vibration, then it is in the engine and not the drive
train.
Question: 2000 Nissan Maxima 3.0 v6 mileage: 2,600. I purchased the car
in August 2000. The first week I had it back to the service dept for a pull to the
right and had an alignment done. That solved the problem, but noticed a light vibration
through the steering wheel, gas pedal, and front seats. This is most noticeable
at 60 mph+ and only on a really smooth road. To make this as short as possible,
the dealership denies any vibration. I had a firestone shop balance the tires, then
rotate, with no difference. I took it to firestone again to rebalance and there
was found to be a tire out of round. These are Toyo 215/55/16's. I sent the tire
to toyo and rcvd one in exchange. Balanced and mounted, but still have the problem.
A Firestone technician drove the car and noticed the vibration. Two new Bridgestone's
were then installed in front, which took some of the vibration out of the front
seats, but overall the vibration was still present. I had the original tires remounted
and suppose the next step is to call Nissan. This vibration is a bit difficult to
notice at first as it feels like it may be the surface of the road being transmitted
through the car (normal road feel). On the interstates in my area, it is not noticeable
at first (not the smoothest around) but on the smoother repaved roads I travel on
daily, everyone who has driven the car (again, service dept being the exception)
readily notices the shake/vibration. Could this be a characteristic of the toyos,
as the Bridgestone's that were temporarily installed on the front seemed to help
a bit? The service dept said 'everything' had been checked out, but on the other
hand says there is nothing to check (no problem), as they were not able to replicate
what I said was happening. This is with me in the car at the same time, telling
the service mgr I can feel it while he was driving. Again, this occurs on all roads
but being more easily noticed, the smoother the road is, at 60 mph+.
Answer: It would appear that your alignment may not have been
done correctly.
Question: 2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette, mileage: 148,000. If been having
a problem with my minivan that at first appeared to be cv joint problems, at about
35-40 mph when accelerating the van vibrates a little and makes a knock or clonking
sound but stops if I let off the accelerate or press down harder, I took it in to
the shop but was told the cv joints were fine and possibly had torque converter
problems. At the tran shop apparently after driving the vehicle I was told the would
have to pull the trans and check it out the damage or repairs could be minimal but
can run up to $1500. I wont say I don't trust the shop but the van really doesn't
seem that bad to me and maybe I can do something to prolong the life of the transmission
instead of spending so much at this time to fix it. Questions: do you think I need
to get this check as soon as possible or can it wait? (2) My van has a computer
that tells me when something is wrong and I haven't been alerted to any problems.
(3) If need be what can I expect to pay for labor and rebuilding of my transmission
(worst case).
Answer: With 148000 miles, if the CV joints or the transmission
has not been replaced, your problem could be either one. Although you had the CV
joints inspected and found them to be okay, we would suggest taking a real close
look at the CV joints again as it sure sounds like CV problems to us.
Question: 1993 Chevy Astro van 4.3 mileage: 93,000. Have an all wheel
drive with a vibration at between 60 and 75 mph. It gets worse when I put the engine
under load, and smoothes out when the load is decreased. I have balanced the tires,
rotated them, had both drive shafts taken off and inspected, and am now being told
by a mechanic that the transfer case might be causing the vibration, at least a
70% chance. His recommendation is to replace it with a new GM factory built. I have
been told that some vibrations are never found, at least not very easily. What would
you recommend?
Answer: You mentioned that you had the drive shafts taken off and inspected.
Were the CV joints looked at? We have found vibrations like the one you described,
are usually caused by worn CV joints.
Question: 1999 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 mileage: 121,000. I bought a brand
new 1999 Jetta. Put custom alloy wheels on, and started noticing a vibration in
the steering wheel. I thought maybe a poor balancing. After rebalance, same problem.
Took the vehicle to Volkswagen stating my problem. They said they identified the
problem with a bad tire on the front. I rotated the tires and did notice a slight
difference in the vibration. Vibration characteristics: Sometimes more during acceleration
50 - 75 MPH, sometimes more when releasing accelerator 50-75 MPH. Sometimes no vibration
however seldom. Replaced both front tires just to be sure...Same problem. Back to
Volkswagen: This time a bad wheel defect. Replaced that wheel... Same problem. Replaced
it again, possibly bad casting: same problem. This time changed all custom wheels
to different type and make: ... same Problem. What else is there to do?
Answer: The only suggestion we can make is to try stock rims and tires.
Hopefully, this will cure your problem. If so, the obvious culprit would be the
after market wheels. The offset on the custom wheels may be different from stock
wheels.
Question: 1999 Honda Accord LX 4Dr. 2.2 liter mileage: 69,500. The
Honda is an automatic. When I put the car in reverse and hold my foot on the
brake the car vibrates badly. It does not do this in drive however.
Could you tell me what the problem might be? Thank you
Answer: Without actually �seeing� your vehicle and driving it, it is difficult
to diagnose the problem. We are guessing you may have some bad motor mounts.
Question: 1999 Mitsubishi Galant 2L mileage: 110,000. The car has
a vibration at idle and then when the engine hits 3000 rpm (70 mph).
We got the car from my mother in law who said that it started when she had the belts
changed at 60,000 miles. I suspected the silent shaft belt wasn't set right
so I changed out the belts and followed the procedure in the manual for the car.
This didn't change it. I still think that the shaft is set right but I could
not locate the hole to check the silent shaft position, as the diagram in the book
is confusing. Can you tell me where this hole is supposed to be so I can check
this again? Do you think it could be something else? I saw a listing
in Service bulletins that said something about replacing the oil pump to cut down
on engine noise. I really don't want to have to take this to the Mitsubishi
dealer, as I know if I can find an answer, I can fix it. Thanks for your help
Greg
Answer: The vibration idle may be caused by the motor mounts failing.
Also, check with your local parts supplier, there should be a kit available that
disables the silent shaft. The engine runs the same with or without the silent
shaft.
Question: 1993 Mazda 626 lx 4.0L mileage: 105,000. I'm getting some
vibration in the front end of the car when I reach speeds around 50 mph.
I went to my local mechanic and he said my motor mounts were shot and I need to
replace them. He quoted me $750 dollars and I think this is too high.
Can you tell me what the motor mount is made of and is this a reasonable price.
Thanks, Michael
Answer: The $750.00 price sounds a little high. Check with your
local Mazda dealer for an estimate for the work mentioned. The motor mounts
are fluid filled, not the normal rubber you would expect.
Question: 1999 VW Passat vr 6 mileage: 116,000. There is a sound
like driving over a grooved surface, but no vibration. The sound varies with car
speed, and is not affected by engaging or disengaging the clutch (gear doesn't matter
either). The sound gets very loud at highway speeds. I raised the car
and spun each wheel. The right front wheel makes a rumbling sound when I spin
it (the left front and the rears are silent). I think that I have a
wheel bearing problem, but am not sure if I can change it myself or if I will need
to pull the hub and have a machine shop press out the old one and press in the new
one. Also, if I have to pull the hub, will I need to have it re-aligned?
Any advice appreciated!
Answer: If you do not have a press yourself, you will have to have a machine
shop press out the old bearings. You should not have to have a realignment
done if you pull the hubs
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