Repair Topics / Engine Valves-1 / Engine Valves-2

Car Valve and Valve Train Problems

Question: 1999 Honda Accord, mileage: 115,000. After over 100,000 miles, I believe my engine needs a valve job. Question is - should the bottom end also be done? Hate to get the compression back only to have it create problems down below.

Answer: With 115,000 miles on your car, it should be ok. Today car engines can easily go 180,000 to 240,000 miles.

Question: 1999 Ford Explorer, mileage: 126,000. My Explorer will not pass inspection because emissions are too high. A friend told me that one of the cylinders is not firing. He checked the compression and it was low, were do I go from here?

Answer:   First inject air into the weak cylinder at TDC (top dead center). Then listen for air escaping exhaust or intake or crankcase. For exhaust valve intake valve and piston.

Question: 2002 Mercedes E 300 D mileage: 86,600.  Our Mercedes has been a black hole we keep throwing money into. 2100 miles ago, we spent aprox. $1,600 on Air conditioning (3rd time) repairs and steering shock and idler arm replacement.   We Just spent another $400.00 on power antenna (3rd one), V-belts, replace engine mounts, replace leaking head gaskets, oil pan and level switch leaking and power steering box re-seal.  In the course of this current work, the dealer observed carbon build up (due to failed exhaust valve seal) and recommended a valve job to the tune of another $2,500!   At this point, I'd had it, and declined the valve job.  My inclination is to get rid of the car, but it runs great now and my wife loves it.  What can I expect for valve problems in the future and is it possible to burn off some of the carbon with some additive?

Question: 1955 Chevrolet Nomad, mileage: 100,000 +.  I have a 235 engine with a 2-speed hydromatic transmission.  How do I adjust the valves on the engine?  My repair manual has two different adjustments.  One with a clearance and another adjusting the value adjustment screw 1 1/2 turns just after it tightens against the push rod.  It runs very rough right now and runs better when it's cold. The carburetor was rebuilt and I can't get the car to idle. Any help would be appreciated

Answer:   It sounds like the valve adjustment is too tight.  With the engine running, try slowly loosening the adjustment until a valve “click” is heard.  Now slowly tighten one turn.  If it still has a rough idle.

Question: 1999 Chevrolet 3500 mileage: 160,00.  One of the valves in my recently rebuilt engine has a constant tapping noise.  I have adjusted the valve and have not been able to quite the lifter.  All of the other lifters have adjusted fine and do not make any noise.  What are some methods I can use to test for a bad lifter without removing the manifold and doing a visual check of the lifter?

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