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Transmission Leaks and Operational Problems Question
This
category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.

Question:
1995 Oldsmobile Aurora mileage: 150,000. I
had the transmission rebuilt by a reputable
dealer. After one week the service engine
code light came on and the transmission
jerked very roughly when put into gear. They
diagnosed that a circuit that went through
the ignition switch was the culprit. They
changed out the switch. That solution lasted
about 3 weeks before the code came back and
the transmission bucked. They took the car,
dove it for about two hundred miles but the
problem did not reoccur for them. But it
happened again yesterday. They removed the
code, the same code that told them the
ignition switch might be the problem, and
the car runs fine. This problem occurs only
when starting the car, never when in
operation. Any suggestions?
Answer:
Check for loose or missing ground wires to
the engine/transmission assembly.
Also, look for bad connections in the main
power wires and in the main power
distribution panel.
Question: 1998 Toyota
Camry, mileage: 140,000. A friend of mine,
and his friend, both have Toyota
Camrys with the same problem. Both cars had
bad radiators that were replaced. Both cars
now won't move! They run fine. They both
have 140E electronic transmissions. He
thinks a water sensor under the thermostat
might be bad, causing the transmission to
shut down. The owner's book says if the
engine overheats, the transmission won't
work. The sensor has 2 wires on it. What
kind of sensor is this? Normally open,
closed, or does it connect to ground when
hot or cold? I never heard of a car not
moving because the radiator was replaced.
Also, he has disconnected the battery for a
while with no difference.
Answer: Check the
cooler line inlet and outlet as it may be
blocked or plugged by the cooler line
covers. It is painted black at the time they
paint the radiator so it is hard to see.
Remove the cooler lines to remove the line
plugs to reassemble and refill to repair.
Question:
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mileage: 140,000.
The Jeep was leaking transmission fluid due
to the transmission pan gasket
deteriorating. Replacement went well and the
Jeep was running well. Now again the jeep’s
transmission is leaking fluid and the jeep
is having trouble shifting gears. It runs
higher in RPMs and doesn't want to shift to
the next gear. The leak doesn't look like it
is coming from the gasket. Help!
Answer: You need to reseal the
entire transmission not just the pan gasket.
Unless the transmission has been rebuilt
recently, you should consider a total
rebuild at this point considering your
mileage.
Question:
1999 Oldsmobile Aurora, mileage: 90,000. I
had the transmission rebuilt by a reputable
dealer. After one week the service engine
code light came on and the transmission
jerked very roughly when put into gear. They
diagnosed that a circuit that went through
the ignition switch was the culprit. They
changed out the switch. That solution lasted
about 3 weeks before the code came back and
the transmission bucked. They took the car,
dove it for about two hundred miles but the
problem did not reoccur for them. But it
happened again yesterday. They removed the
code, the same code that told them the
ignition switch might be the problem, and
the car runs fine. This problem occurs only
when starting the car, never when in
operation. Any suggestions?
Answer: Its sounds like you
have a electrical system inside the
transmission, possibly a shift control
solenoid. Use a
engine scanner to pull codes from the
transmission and pinpoint the problem.
Replace failed components to clear codes and
recheck system.
Question:
2001 Dodge Caravan, mileage: 110,000.
Transmission went on this vehicle.
Transmission rebuilt and replaced.
Vehicle starts and then it stalls when
putting it in drive. Spark plugs and
wires have been replaced. Engine oil
changed. We can drive it, but it keeps on
stalling anytime we go to stop also.
Any ideas.
Answer:
Use a engine scanner to pull codes, If none it sounds like
the lock-up torque converter may not be disengaging at
idle. Or you have a idle air control motor
that has failed.
Question:
1999 Dodge Durango. I recently had my
transmission removed and rebuilt in my
Durango, and since I got it back, the
shifting points seem a little off, but the
main problem I'm having is that if it sits
over night, and I first start it and put it
in gear to either back or pull out of my
driveway, the Durango won't move, I give it
gas and it seems like there is no gear
whatsoever, but after a couple seconds, 10
or more it goes in gear and works fine. The
longer the Durango sits, the longer it has
no drive gear, but before it engages, you
hear the pump and everything but it still
won't move, than it goes in and fine till it
sits again. A transmission shop told
me that their 100% sure it's the check valve
in the transmission line and they said they
have to replace that. When in fact I changed
that, the day I got the Durango out of the
shop. And if it sits for a couple days
there's a puddle under it from transmission
fluid, but I believe that's just the pan
gasket. And the transmission shop has it now
and says its fine, its normal all that...no
problem going in to gear for them. Any
idea what the problem could be.
Answer:
Your problem is the result of an internal
leak in the transmission. The torque
converter drains back into the transmission
overnight. We call this "morning
sickness." When the truck is started, it
can not move until the transmission refills
the torque converter. When the truck
sits for several days, the torque converter
over-fills the transmission to the point
that the fluid leaks out of the transmission
case vent.
Question:
2002 Mazda Pickup B2300 mileage: 95,000. I've had my pickup in 4
times (to the Mazda Dealer where I bought
it) in 2004 because the 2nd gear synchromesh
goes out. The first 2 times it was under
warranty (no charge). For the second repair
they put in a new transmission. The third
time they charged more than $2400 (includes
$600 car rental) to repair it. They said,
"It might be under warranty" when I took it
in the 3rd time, but decided it was "driver
habit" that caused the problem. It went out
again, the 4th time, after only 371 miles.
They tore it down and concluded it was
"driver habit" again and said it will cost
another $1500 (plus car rental) to fix it.
The odometer readings each time I brought it
in for repairs were: 30776, 33197, 41832,
and 42203. First and third gears have
been taking a lot of strain because I bypass
grinding second gear frequently. If either
one of those gears went out, blaming "driver
habit" would make sense, but those gears are
holding up well. It's in the shop right now.
A local mechanic told me "everybody knows
that the 2nd gear synchromesh in Mazda
transmissions goes out because they use a
plastic sleeve and it crumbles." He
replaces the plastic part with a metal
sleeve and this solves the problem. I
still have my 1991 Mazda B2200 Pickup and
the transmission has never been touched --
it has 173,756 miles on the odometer. I
thought my transmission problems were over
when I sold my '49 Ford Convertible and my
two '50 Mercurys (one a Convertible and one
a Hardtop) way back in the early 1950s.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Answer:
There must be an updated part the dealer is
not finding. Contact a the Mazda corporate
office a tell them your problem, they will
contact the dealer involved and resolve the
issue.
Question:
2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500, mileage:
126,000. This is my husband's 2-wheel drive
pickup. The problem started while the truck
was parked, not running. When he starts the
truck, it runs fine but as soon as he puts
it in D or R it cuts off. He disconnected
the TCC switch; it still does the same
thing. He jacked the back wheels up and it
does not cut off until he applies the brake.
It will run and change gears fine with the
back wheels off the ground until he applies
the brake & then if cuts off. He has asked
lots of people dealing with mechanics & no
one has ever heard of this happening. Do you
have any idea or have you heard of this same
problem? The truck is not worth spending
thousands of dollars on which is usually
what happens when we deal with mechanics
guessing & just start replacing until they
hit the problem. My husband has some
mechanic back ground & was hoping to repair
this.
Answer:
From what you have told us, your problem is
probably caused by the lock-up torque
converter not disengaging. It has
malfunctioned and needs replacing.
Question:
1999 Chevrolet Suburban, mileage 154,000:
Third and forth gear went out at 139,000
miles. Had transmission rebuilt.
Old transmission had intermittently
noticeable 1-2 shifts. Rebuilt has good 1-2
shifts and violent 1-2 shifts. Truck
usually starts out with good 1-2 shifts and
migrates into violent 1-2 shifts, but there
doesn't seem to be any solid consistency to
this pattern. One transmission
mechanic using his Sun diagnostic unit saw a
1-2 error with a shift rate of .28.
MAP, TBS, EGR, and everything else ok. Truck
starts fine and engine has been checked. All
other electrical seems to be fine. No
accident history. Any ideas on where to go
next?
Answer:
It sounds like you have a shift control
solenoid that has high resistance causing
the hard shift you describe. Scan the
PCM for trouble codes if none are present
you could have a internal transmission
problem.
Question:
1999 Ford Explorer, mileage 103,000: My son
just purchased a Explorer with 103,000 miles
and we are in the process of servicing the
entire car. I was ready to dump the
transmission fluid and change the filter,
when a friend told me not to. He
stated that new fluid at 103,000 could cause
more problems than it solves. I don't know
if the transmission has ever been serviced
but the fluid is fairly clean and does not
smell burned. The transmission shifts great
and is quiet, should we leave it alone or
change the fluid as planned?
Answer:
Not knowing the service history of your car
and because the fluid in your transmission
looks clean and does not smell burnt, we
suggest draining the fluid and replacing the
filter.
Question:
1999 Mercury Mystique, mileage 132,000.
Recently our Mercury Mystique started making
a noise from the left front wheel, since it
sounded like a bad tire I took it to the
local tire store. After driving it they put
it up on the lift and they showed me that
while spinning the left front wheel you
could hear a clunking noise inside the
transmission. They said that they thought I
should have the transmission checked out.
They also said that my left front wheel
bearing housing was bad and that was what
was making the noise, but they suggested
that the bad bearing was caused by the
transmission. What inside the transmission
would cause the bearing to go bad? If I
decide to re-build the transmission myself,
how hard is it on this car and will I be
able tell what is causing the noise when I
get the transmission open? Is there a book
that you would recommend that may help me?
Answer:
We do not think a bad axle bearing could
cause the transmission to go out.
Question: 1999 Ford Windstar,
mileage: 120,000. I was turning right in my
van when I heard a popping noise. After
that, it was stuck in drive. I can move the
gearshift to any gear, but it still stays in
drive. I am wondering if this could be the
driveline, other than that, I am just about
at my wits end. Thank you for your
time...and have a great day!
Answer: Check the linkage
that goes from the shift lever down to the
transmission. It sounds like somewhere along
the line, it has become disconnected or has
broken.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet 3500
Truck 1 ton, Mileage: 89,000. I drove home
from 400 mile trip without any problems
except the speedometer and odometer would
not work. The next time I tried to start it,
the engine started fine, but when I put it
in gear it would not move. I have checked to
make sure the emergency (automatic brake) is
released by jacking up the rear wheels and
spinning them freely with the selector
switch in neutral. No problem. I did find
that there had been several fuses, not
blown, but the plastic part of the fuses had
melted. I have replaced these fuses and
there has not been a problem with them
since, but I still cannot move the vehicle
with the engine. The engine does not stall
when I put it from "Park" to "Drive" and I
can feel the transmission engaging (I
think.) I checked the 10 amp transmission
fuse with it in gear and it appears to be
solid.
Answer:
The speedometer - odometer probably quit
working due to failure of a speed sensor in
the transmission. Unfortunately your speed
sensor inputs information to the PCM
(powertrain control module) and its failure
could have caused the transmission a
malfunction.
Question:
2004 BMW 325xi Sedan,
Mileage: 55,000. I have my BMW parked for
the winter. It has never had any
transmission leaks and after about 1 month
of sitting, it started to drip a lot of
transmission fluid. I started it up and it
seems to have subsided. Is it possible that
leaving it stand without driving, the
transmission may leak through some seals?
Answer: What probably is
occurring is the transmission torque
converter is very slowly draining fluid back
into the transmission. Eventually this will
overfill the transmission and leak out of
one of the vents. you can not fill this
transmission normally. You must take it to
the dealer for service
Question: 1998 Toyota Camry,
miles: 121,000. I have had my transmission
rebuilt and I believe they didn't put in the
right transmission. I am an auto mechanic
and need to know how I can identify if the
A540E, which should be original equipment in
the car, is there after it was rebuilt. I
took the car back because it is not shifting
from 1st to 2nd gear after being driven for
about an hour. I just took it to another
branch of the same transmission repair
facility and they said it was fine. They
adjusted something (HA HA) but it didn't
make a difference.
Answer: Get your VIN number
(Vehicle Identification Number) located by
the windshield of your car or on your
registration certificate and then call a
Toyota dealer and he/she can tell you which
model of transmission that should be in your
car. Then purchase a transmission pan gasket
for the model they tell you should be in
your car and see if it matches the
transmission pan in your car.
Question: 2001 Acura
Integra 1.8 GS-R 3dr, miles: 89,000 On
your site I read a question sent in
regarding a transmission and I had the
identical problem with my Honda. It would
shift down to second gear at any time, never
knew when it would happen. You could then
turn the key off and back on and it would
then shift into drive. Did a computer check
and had a transmission shop run the codes.
It was the computer control for the
transmission that was defective. Replaced
the unit with a second hand one and the
problem was solved. Takes all of ten minutes
to change.
Answer: What happens
is the controller "resets" when the key is
cycled. It loads the correct program but
then the files go corrupt. Reloading the
operating files each time you cycle the key.
Question: 1999 Dodge
Caravan, mileage: 130,000: I've just been
through your archives! This is my first
visit to the site. Wow! So much good
information in here. A month ago, just
driving along, the transmission sort of
lurched and dropped into first gear. After
this, first gear is all we got. We took it
to a shop and were told that the
transmission was shot and had a rebuilt one
put in. Within a week, we start to feel the
transmission shift really erratically.
Coming to a stop, when it would normally
downshift from 2nd to 1st, it seemed like it
waited until the last moment, almost to the
point where the engine would stall, and then
shift hard and lurch when it finally did.
Since the transmission was still under
warranty, we took it back to the shop. They
put the transmission through "all the tests"
and it came out fine. They did replace all
of the sensors, thinking that this may be
where the problem lies. Well, it's been
another week, and now the transmission will
suddenly downshift into 2nd gear (which
could really hurt if you're on the freeway,
hasn't happened yet) and not let you shift
any higher. Here is the funny part. If you
pull over, put it in park, turn off the car,
and then re-start it, you have a 50-50
chance of whether the problem will still be
there. Even after all this happened, and
after re-starting, I've been on the freeway,
shifting completely normal all the way to
Overdrive. So, I figure that the
transmission really is OK, but if it's not
that and all the sensors have just been
replaced, what else could it be? Any ideas
would help. Keep up the good work.
Answer: What happens
is the controller "resets" when the key is
cycled. It loads the correct program but
then the files go corrupt. Reloading the
operating files each time you cycle the key.
Replace drive train control module to repair
problem.
Question: 1999
Saturn SC1 mileage: 148,000. Transmission
fluid all over the garage floor one morning,
so I took it to the mechanic who changed the
filter. A month later, as I was backing out
of the driveway my car suddenly refused to
move! Total loss of transmission fluid
again.?
Answer: It sounds like you
may have a leak the mechanic has missed and
need re-diagnoses.
Question: 1999 Honda Accord,
mileage: 97,000. I have a Honda Accord 5
speed, When I put it in any gear and let out
the clutch it feels like the emergency brake
is on, but its not, the car wants to move to
the point that I can smell the clutch burn
even in reverse. It almost feels like it is
between gears, but if I put the car in
neutral it will move forward. When I let the
clutch out it feels like it may be in first
gear. I've checked under the car and the
shift linkage shaft moves to the left and to
the right and in and out on the trans when
the shifter is moved. Can you help me?
Answer: It appears
from your description that your transmission
has internal problems with the shift linkage
allowing it to be in two gears at the same
time. We would remove the transmission and
check for worn-out shift levers and rods
replace as needed to recheck.
Question: 1999 Mercedes
Benz, C230 mileage: 90,000. A few weeks
after purchase the transmission was not
selecting third gear. The dealers repaired
it but it was never smooth. Just too much
strain on the transmission when effort is
made to accelerate quickly. Now the
transmission is slipping to neutral when
driving above 35 mph most times. What would
you say is the cause of this and what is the
best solution?
Answer: First scan the
PCM for trouble codes using a hand held
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor or shift control solenoid as
needed. If no codes are present your
transmission could have a internal failure.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet
S-10 Blazer, mileage: 132,000. I'm changing
the transmission and would like to know if
it is a must that I change the converter
also or would it be advisable that I put in
the used one that came with the used
transmission?
Answer: Use the same
used converter that came with the used
transmission.
Question: 1999 Ford
Windstar, mileage: 145,000. I had my
transmission overhauled at about 144,000
miles because the oil was burnt and the
transmission was starting to shift up and
down repeatedly while going uphill. After
the overhaul was completed, it seemed to run
fine until on a long trip and the
transmission began doing the same thing.
Also, about the same time the cruise control
went out. What might the problem be?
Answer: Scan the power
control module for fault codes (the module
controls all the transmission functions). In
addition, check speedometer sensor for
proper operation and check for a partially
plugged catalytic converter.
Question: 1999 Dodge Ram
1500 4x4 mileage: 120,000. I will be towing
a 2500 lb. camper on an extended vacation
this summer and want to install a
transmission cooler. My service manual says
the factory cooler which comes with the
towing package. Do any aftermarket add on
coolers have additional cooling benefits?
Answer: A transmission
oil cooler in your case can do nothing but
help keep the oil cool. Heat is the number
one cause of failure to a transmission.
Question: 1999 Toyota
Avalon, mileage: 144,000. Hi, this is my
first Toyota and I have a weird problem.
When the car is idling or slowly moving the
temperature gauge works fine, then when it
gets up to highway speed the gauge will
slowly inch its way down to zero. When it
registers in the cold area of the gauge the
car will go out of overdrive and downshift
to 3rd gear. In other words, as long as the
temperature gauge is working overdrive
works. Can anyone help with this problem? Is
this a big repair job?
Answer: Replace the
thermostat in the cooling system. Yours is
undoubtedly stuck open allowing the cooling
system to go below normal operating
temperature which causes the transmission to
shift out of overdrive. This is not a common
problem and it is not a big repair job.
Question: 2003 Mercedes Benz
E500, mileage: 78,900. I had my car towed to
a repair shop when my fuel pump failed. The
tow truck driver put it in neutral and towed
it to the shop (28 miles away, 35 mph speed
limit) with the rear wheels on the ground.
Now, my car will not shift out of 1st gear.
This is the first time anything has gone
wrong with my transmission and I don't think
it has failed. Could incorrect towing be at
fault?
Answer: It is never a
good idea to tow a car with the drive wheels
on the ground. A bearing could have been
damaged. A automatic transmission depends on
the engine running to supply lubricant to
the transmission bearing. Without it the
transmission can have internal bearing
failure.
Question: 2001 Mercury
Mountaineer, mileage: 68,000. This SUV is
all-wheel-drive.... Transmission problem:
Shifts fine through all gears, except
between 45-55MPH overdrive downshifting
under acceleration or steady throttle (when
climbing a moderate grade) shifting
shudders. Dealer's service said they changed
trans fluid and cleaned filter, but only
with modest improvement as a result. I'm
still under a used dealer warrantee so far,
and I wondered if you could give me some
insight to what might be wrong with this.
Answer: First scan the
PCM for trouble codes using a hand held
scanner, The good news is you might be
experiencing the beginnings of an ignition
system failure (spark plug or plug wire)
which feel like a transmission slipping a
little.
Question:
2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 mileage:
42,000. Hello. My truck was in the flood and
water rose up into the motor and
transmission. I changed the oil and the
transmission fluid was flushed over and over
and was working fine. About 7 weeks after
the hurricane the truck was running
perfectly fine so I took a long trip to
Chattanooga. On the way home, when the
transmission goes into overdrive and is at
its lowest rpms, it kind of skips or bucks
and this is from 1,000 to I guess about 1500
rpms. What could cause this? Would my
warranty be thrown out because the truck was
totaled and bought back by me?
Answer: Some of the internal
parts of the transmission particularly
clutch packs, will be damaged if they come
in contact with water. Your new car warranty
is only good for 28,000 miles.
Question: 2004 Dodge
Grand Caravan, mileage: 50,450. While
driving under normal conditions at 35 miles
per hour, the transmission down shifted to
1st gear and the speedometer went to "0" and
stopped working. The transmission will not
shift and remains in 1st gear at all Rpm's.
Answer: The vehicle
speed sensor that sends a signal to the
speedometer may be defective.
Question: 2002 Ford F350
diesel, mileage: 116,000. OD light starts
flashing every once in a while. Then
transmission shifts rough. Took to
transmission guy, he said transmission was
fine; it was some kind of other problem Code
he gave me was P1728. Ford dealer today told
me code says slippage and need new
transmission or overhaul $$$$$$. When you
unhook battery, for few minutes, it resets
itself and then the truck runs great, no
problems with transmission shifts until the
next time. I have found a lot of people on
the Internet with same problem, haven't
found anyone who had solution. Can you help?
Answer: P1728
indicates that the transmission is slipping.
When the computer that controls the
transmission detects a fault code like
P1728, it will put the transmission into a
"limp" mode. To resolve this problem, you
will need to get your transmission
overhauled.
Question: 1999 Toyota Camry,
miles: 89,000. I am getting trouble code
P015 which is the transmission control
module relay failure. The transmission seems
to bog down when accelerating, then
eventually picks up and behaves normally.
Also lost the speedometer about the same
time. I purchased a new transmission control
module relay from the Dodge dealer, but
can't find the relay under my hood. The shop
manual refers to it but does not locate it
on any diagram I have found. The service
manager and mechanic at the Dodge dealer
were equally perplexed when they tried to
locate the relay for me. Any help would be
greatly appreciated.
Answer:
Code P015 for your make and model indicates
a failed vehicle speed sensor. This would
account for your speedometer and your
transmission not working properly. Replacing
it should fix your problem. Recheck and
clear codes.

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