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Car Transmission Questions
Question: 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora mileage: 150,000.
I had the transmission rebuilt by a reputable dealer. After one week the service
engine code light came on and the transmission jerked very roughly when put into
gear. They diagnosed that a circuit that went through the ignition switch was the
culprit. They changed out the switch. That solution lasted about 3 weeks before
the code came back and the transmission bucked. They took the car, dove it for about
two hundred miles but the problem did not reoccur for them. But it happened again
yesterday. They removed the code, the same code that told them the ignition switch
might be the problem, and the car runs fine. This problem occurs only when starting
the car, never when in operation. Any suggestions?
Answer: Check for loose or missing ground wires
to the engine/transmission assembly. Also, look for bad connections in the
main power wires and in the main power distribution panel.
Question: 1998 Toyota Camry, mileage: 140,000. A friend of mine, and his
friend, both have Toyota Camrys with the same problem. Both cars had bad radiators
that were replaced. Both cars now won't move! They run fine. They both have 140E
electronic transmissions. He thinks a water sensor under the thermostat might be
bad, causing the transmission to shut down. The owner's book says if the engine
overheats, the transmission won't work. The sensor has 2 wires on it. What kind
of sensor is this? Normally open, closed, or does it connect to ground when hot
or cold? I never heard of a car not moving because the radiator was replaced. Also,
he has disconnected the battery for a while with no difference.
Answer: Check the cooler line inlet and outlet as it may be
blocked or plugged by the cooler line covers. It is painted black at the time they
paint the radiator so it is hard to see. Remove the cooler lines to remove the line
plugs to reassemble and refill to repair.
Question: 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mileage: 140,000.
The Jeep was leaking transmission fluid due to the transmission pan gasket deteriorating.
Replacement went well and the Jeep was running well. Now again the jeep’s transmission
is leaking fluid and the jeep is having trouble shifting gears. It runs higher in
RPMs and doesn't want to shift to the next gear. The leak doesn't look like it is
coming from the gasket. Help!
Answer: You need to reseal the entire transmission not just the
pan gasket. Unless the transmission has been rebuilt recently, you should consider
a total rebuild at this point considering your mileage.
Question: 1999 Oldsmobile Aurora, mileage: 90,000. I
had the transmission rebuilt by a reputable dealer. After one week the service engine
code light came on and the transmission jerked very roughly when put into gear.
They diagnosed that a circuit that went through the ignition switch was the culprit.
They changed out the switch. That solution lasted about 3 weeks before the code
came back and the transmission bucked. They took the car, dove it for about two
hundred miles but the problem did not reoccur for them. But it happened again yesterday.
They removed the code, the same code that told them the ignition switch might be
the problem, and the car runs fine. This problem occurs only when starting the car,
never when in operation. Any suggestions?
Answer: Its sounds like you have a electrical system inside the
transmission, possibly a shift control solenoid. Use a engine scanner to pull codes
from the transmission and pinpoint the problem. Replace failed components to clear
codes and recheck system.
Question: 2001 Dodge Caravan, mileage: 110,000.
Transmission went on this vehicle. Transmission rebuilt and replaced.
Vehicle starts and then it stalls when putting it in drive. Spark plugs and
wires have been replaced. Engine oil changed. We can drive it, but it keeps
on stalling anytime we go to stop also. Any ideas.
Answer: Use a engine scanner to pull codes, If
none it sounds like the lock-up torque converter
may not be disengaging at idle. Or you have a idle air control motor that has failed.
Question: 1999 Dodge Durango. I recently
had my transmission removed and rebuilt in my Durango, and since I got it back,
the shifting points seem a little off, but the main problem I'm having is that if
it sits over night, and I first start it and put it in gear to either back or pull
out of my driveway, the Durango won't move, I give it gas and it seems like there
is no gear whatsoever, but after a couple seconds, 10 or more it goes in gear and
works fine. The longer the Durango sits, the longer it has no drive gear, but before
it engages, you hear the pump and everything but it still won't move, than it goes
in and fine till it sits again. A transmission shop told me that their 100%
sure it's the check valve in the transmission line and they said they have to replace
that. When in fact I changed that, the day I got the Durango out of the shop.
And if it sits for a couple days there's a puddle under it from transmission fluid,
but I believe that's just the pan gasket. And the transmission shop has it now and
says its fine, its normal all that...no problem going in to gear for them.
Any idea what the problem could be.
Answer: Your problem is the result of an internal leak in the transmission.
The torque converter drains back into the transmission overnight. We call
this "morning sickness." When the truck is started, it can not move until
the transmission refills the torque converter. When the truck sits for several
days, the torque converter over-fills the transmission to the point that the fluid
leaks out of the transmission case vent.
Question: 2002 Mazda Pickup B2300 mileage: 95,000. I've had
my pickup in 4 times (to the Mazda Dealer where I bought it) in 2004 because the
2nd gear synchromesh goes out. The first 2 times it was under warranty (no charge).
For the second repair they put in a new transmission. The third time they charged
more than $2400 (includes $600 car rental) to repair it. They said, "It might be
under warranty" when I took it in the 3rd time, but decided it was "driver habit"
that caused the problem. It went out again, the 4th time, after only 371 miles.
They tore it down and concluded it was "driver habit" again and said it will cost
another $1500 (plus car rental) to fix it. The odometer readings each time I brought
it in for repairs were: 30776, 33197, 41832, and 42203. First and third gears
have been taking a lot of strain because I bypass grinding second gear frequently.
If either one of those gears went out, blaming "driver habit" would make sense,
but those gears are holding up well. It's in the shop right now. A local mechanic
told me "everybody knows that the 2nd gear synchromesh in Mazda transmissions goes
out because they use a plastic sleeve and it crumbles." He replaces the plastic
part with a metal sleeve and this solves the problem. I still have my 1991
Mazda B2200 Pickup and the transmission has never been touched -- it has 173,756
miles on the odometer. I thought my transmission problems were over when I sold
my '49 Ford Convertible and my two '50 Mercurys (one a Convertible and one a Hardtop)
way back in the early 1950s. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Answer: There must be an updated part the dealer is
not finding. Contact a the Mazda corporate office a tell them your problem, they
will contact the dealer involved and resolve the issue.
Question: 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500, mileage:
126,000. This is my husband's 2-wheel drive pickup. The problem started while the
truck was parked, not running. When he starts the truck, it runs fine but as soon
as he puts it in D or R it cuts off. He disconnected the TCC switch; it still does
the same thing. He jacked the back wheels up and it does not cut off until he applies
the brake. It will run and change gears fine with the back wheels off the ground
until he applies the brake & then if cuts off. He has asked lots of people dealing
with mechanics & no one has ever heard of this happening. Do you have any idea or
have you heard of this same problem? The truck is not worth spending thousands of
dollars on which is usually what happens when we deal with mechanics guessing &
just start replacing until they hit the problem. My husband has some mechanic back
ground & was hoping to repair this.
Answer: From what you have told us, your problem is
probably caused by the lock-up torque converter not disengaging. It has malfunctioned
and needs replacing.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet Suburban, mileage 154,000:
Third and forth gear went out at 139,000 miles. Had transmission rebuilt.
Old transmission had intermittently noticeable 1-2 shifts. Rebuilt has good 1-2
shifts and violent 1-2 shifts. Truck usually starts out with good 1-2 shifts
and migrates into violent 1-2 shifts, but there doesn't seem to be any solid consistency
to this pattern. One transmission mechanic using his Sun diagnostic unit saw
a 1-2 error with a shift rate of .28. MAP, TBS, EGR, and everything else ok.
Truck starts fine and engine has been checked. All other electrical seems to be
fine. No accident history. Any ideas on where to go next?
Answer: It sounds like you have a shift control
solenoid that has high resistance causing the hard shift you describe. Scan the
PCM for trouble codes if none are present you could have a internal transmission
problem.
Question: 1999 Ford Explorer, mileage 103,000:
My son just purchased a Explorer with 103,000 miles and we are in the process of
servicing the entire car. I was ready to dump the transmission fluid and change
the filter, when a friend told me not to. He stated that new fluid at 103,000
could cause more problems than it solves. I don't know if the transmission has ever
been serviced but the fluid is fairly clean and does not smell burned. The transmission
shifts great and is quiet, should we leave it alone or change the fluid as planned?
Answer: Not knowing the service history of your
car and because the fluid in your transmission looks clean and does not smell burnt,
we suggest draining the fluid and replacing the filter.
Question: 1999 Mercury Mystique, mileage 132,000. Recently our Mercury
Mystique started making a noise from the left front wheel, since it sounded like
a bad tire I took it to the local tire store. After driving it they put it up on
the lift and they showed me that while spinning the left front wheel you could hear
a clunking noise inside the transmission. They said that they thought I should have
the transmission checked out. They also said that my left front wheel bearing housing
was bad and that was what was making the noise, but they suggested that the bad
bearing was caused by the transmission. What inside the transmission would cause
the bearing to go bad? If I decide to re-build the transmission myself, how hard
is it on this car and will I be able tell what is causing the noise when I get the
transmission open? Is there a book that you would recommend that may help me?
Answer: We do not think a bad axle bearing could cause the transmission
to go out.
Question: 1999 Ford Windstar, mileage: 120,000. I was turning right in
my van when I heard a popping noise. After that, it was stuck in drive. I can move
the gearshift to any gear, but it still stays in drive. I am wondering if this could
be the driveline, other than that, I am just about at my wits end. Thank you for
your time...and have a great day!
Answer: Check the linkage that goes from the shift lever down to the transmission.
It sounds like somewhere along the line, it has become disconnected or has broken.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet 3500 Truck 1 ton, Mileage: 89,000. I drove home
from 400 mile trip without any problems except the speedometer and odometer would
not work. The next time I tried to start it, the engine started fine, but when I
put it in gear it would not move. I have checked to make sure the emergency (automatic
brake) is released by jacking up the rear wheels and spinning them freely with the
selector switch in neutral. No problem. I did find that there had been several fuses,
not blown, but the plastic part of the fuses had melted. I have replaced these fuses
and there has not been a problem with them since, but I still cannot move the vehicle
with the engine. The engine does not stall when I put it from "Park" to "Drive"
and I can feel the transmission engaging (I think.) I checked the 10 amp transmission
fuse with it in gear and it appears to be solid.
Answer: The speedometer - odometer probably quit working due to failure of
a speed sensor in the transmission. Unfortunately your speed sensor inputs information
to the PCM (powertrain control module) and its failure could have caused the transmission
a malfunction.
Question: 2004 BMW 325xi Sedan, Mileage: 55,000. I have my BMW parked
for the winter. It has never had any transmission leaks and after about 1 month
of sitting, it started to drip a lot of transmission fluid. I started it up and
it seems to have subsided. Is it possible that leaving it stand without driving,
the transmission may leak through some seals?
Answer: What probably is occurring is the transmission torque converter
is very slowly draining fluid back into the transmission. Eventually this will overfill
the transmission and leak out of one of the vents. you can not fill this transmission
normally. You must take it to the dealer for service
Question: 1998 Toyota Camry, miles: 121,000. I have had my transmission
rebuilt and I believe they didn't put in the right transmission. I am an auto mechanic
and need to know how I can identify if the A540E, which should be original equipment
in the car, is there after it was rebuilt. I took the car back because it is not
shifting from 1st to 2nd gear after being driven for about an hour. I just took
it to another branch of the same transmission repair facility and they said it was
fine. They adjusted something (HA HA) but it didn't make a difference.
Answer: Get your VIN number (Vehicle Identification Number) located by
the windshield of your car or on your registration certificate and then call a Toyota
dealer and he/she can tell you which model of transmission that should be in your
car. Then purchase a transmission pan gasket for the model they tell you should
be in your car and see if it matches the transmission pan in your car.
Question: 2001 Acura Integra 1.8 GS-R 3dr, miles: 89,000
On your site I read a question sent in regarding a transmission and I had the identical
problem with my Honda. It would shift down to second gear at any time, never knew
when it would happen. You could then turn the key off and back on and it would then
shift into drive. Did a computer check and had a transmission shop run the codes.
It was the computer control for the transmission that was defective. Replaced the
unit with a second hand one and the problem was solved. Takes all of ten minutes
to change.
Answer: What happens is the controller "resets" when the key
is cycled. It loads the correct program but then the files go corrupt. Reloading
the operating files each time you cycle the key.
Question: 1999 Dodge Caravan, mileage: 130,000: I've just been through
your archives! This is my first visit to the site. Wow! So much good information
in here. A month ago, just driving along, the transmission sort of lurched and dropped
into first gear. After this, first gear is all we got. We took it to a shop and
were told that the transmission was shot and had a rebuilt one put in. Within a
week, we start to feel the transmission shift really erratically. Coming to a stop,
when it would normally downshift from 2nd to 1st, it seemed like it waited until
the last moment, almost to the point where the engine would stall, and then shift
hard and lurch when it finally did. Since the transmission was still under warranty,
we took it back to the shop. They put the transmission through "all the tests" and
it came out fine. They did replace all of the sensors, thinking that this may be
where the problem lies. Well, it's been another week, and now the transmission will
suddenly downshift into 2nd gear (which could really hurt if you're on the freeway,
hasn't happened yet) and not let you shift any higher. Here is the funny part. If
you pull over, put it in park, turn off the car, and then re-start it, you have
a 50-50 chance of whether the problem will still be there. Even after all this happened,
and after re-starting, I've been on the freeway, shifting completely normal all
the way to Overdrive. So, I figure that the transmission really is OK, but if it's
not that and all the sensors have just been replaced, what else could it be? Any
ideas would help. Keep up the good work.
Answer: What happens is the controller "resets" when the key
is cycled. It loads the correct program but then the files go corrupt. Reloading
the operating files each time you cycle the key. Replace drive train control module
to repair problem.
Question: 1999 Saturn SC1 mileage: 148,000. Transmission fluid all over
the garage floor one morning, so I took it to the mechanic who changed the filter.
A month later, as I was backing out of the driveway my car suddenly refused to move!
Total loss of transmission fluid again.?
Answer: It sounds like you may have a leak the mechanic has missed
and need re-diagnoses.
Question: 1999 Honda Accord, mileage: 97,000. I have a Honda Accord 5
speed, When I put it in any gear and let out the clutch it feels like the emergency
brake is on, but its not, the car wants to move to the point that I can smell the
clutch burn even in reverse. It almost feels like it is between gears, but if I
put the car in neutral it will move forward. When I let the clutch out it feels
like it may be in first gear. I've checked under the car and the shift linkage shaft
moves to the left and to the right and in and out on the trans when the shifter
is moved. Can you help me?
Answer: It appears from your description that your transmission
has internal problems with the shift linkage allowing it to be in two gears at the
same time. We would remove the transmission and check for worn-out shift levers
and rods replace as needed to recheck.
Question: 1999 Mercedes Benz, C230 mileage: 90,000. A few weeks after
purchase the transmission was not selecting third gear. The dealers repaired it
but it was never smooth. Just too much strain on the transmission when effort is
made to accelerate quickly. Now the transmission is slipping to neutral when driving
above 35 mph most times. What would you say is the cause of this and what is the
best solution?
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor or shift control solenoid
as needed. If no codes are present your transmission could have a internal failure.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer, mileage: 132,000. I'm changing the
transmission and would like to know if it is a must that I change the converter
also or would it be advisable that I put in the used one that came with the used
transmission?
Answer: Use the same used converter that came with the used
transmission.
Question: 1999 Ford Windstar, mileage: 145,000. I had my transmission
overhauled at about 144,000 miles because the oil was burnt and the transmission
was starting to shift up and down repeatedly while going uphill. After the overhaul
was completed, it seemed to run fine until on a long trip and the transmission began
doing the same thing. Also, about the same time the cruise control went out. What
might the problem be?
Answer: Scan the power control module for fault codes (the module controls
all the transmission functions). In addition, check speedometer sensor for proper
operation and check for a partially plugged catalytic converter.
Question: 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 mileage: 120,000. I will be towing a
2500 lb. camper on an extended vacation this summer and want to install a transmission
cooler. My service manual says the factory cooler which comes with the towing package.
Do any aftermarket add on coolers have additional cooling benefits?
Answer: A transmission oil cooler in your case can do nothing
but help keep the oil cool. Heat is the number one cause of failure to a transmission.
Question: 1999 Toyota Avalon, mileage: 144,000. Hi, this is my first Toyota
and I have a weird problem. When the car is idling or slowly moving the temperature
gauge works fine, then when it gets up to highway speed the gauge will slowly inch
its way down to zero. When it registers in the cold area of the gauge the car will
go out of overdrive and downshift to 3rd gear. In other words, as long as the temperature
gauge is working overdrive works. Can anyone help with this problem? Is this a big
repair job?
Answer: Replace the thermostat in the cooling system. Yours
is undoubtedly stuck open allowing the cooling system to go below normal operating
temperature which causes the transmission to shift out of overdrive. This is not
a common problem and it is not a big repair job.
Question: 2003 Mercedes Benz E500, mileage: 78,900. I had my car towed
to a repair shop when my fuel pump failed. The tow truck driver put it in neutral
and towed it to the shop (28 miles away, 35 mph speed limit) with the rear wheels
on the ground. Now, my car will not shift out of 1st gear. This is the first time
anything has gone wrong with my transmission and I don't think it has failed. Could
incorrect towing be at fault?
Answer: It is never a good idea to tow a car with the drive
wheels on the ground. A bearing could have been damaged. A automatic transmission
depends on the engine running to supply lubricant to the transmission bearing. Without
it the transmission can have internal bearing failure.
Question: 2001 Mercury Mountaineer, mileage: 68,000. This
SUV is all-wheel-drive.... Transmission problem: Shifts fine through all gears,
except between 45-55MPH overdrive downshifting under acceleration or steady throttle
(when climbing a moderate grade) shifting shudders. Dealer's service said they changed
trans fluid and cleaned filter, but only with modest improvement as a result. I'm
still under a used dealer warrantee so far, and I wondered if you could give me
some insight to what might be wrong with this.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held scanner, The good news is you might be experiencing the beginnings of an ignition
system failure (spark plug or plug wire) which feel like a transmission slipping
a little.
Question: 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 mileage: 42,000.
Hello. My truck was in the flood and water rose up into the motor and transmission.
I changed the oil and the transmission fluid was flushed over and over and was working
fine. About 7 weeks after the hurricane the truck was running perfectly fine so
I took a long trip to Chattanooga. On the way home, when the transmission goes into
overdrive and is at its lowest rpms, it kind of skips or bucks and this is from
1,000 to I guess about 1500 rpms. What could cause this? Would my warranty be thrown
out because the truck was totaled and bought back by me?
Answer: Some of the internal parts of the transmission particularly
clutch packs, will be damaged if they come in contact with water. Your new car warranty
is only good for 28,000 miles.
Question: 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan, mileage: 50,450. While
driving under normal conditions at 35 miles per hour, the transmission down shifted
to 1st gear and the speedometer went to "0" and stopped working. The transmission
will not shift and remains in 1st gear at all Rpm's.
Answer: The vehicle speed sensor that sends a signal to the
speedometer may be defective.
Question: 2002 Ford F350 diesel, mileage: 116,000. OD light starts flashing
every once in a while. Then transmission shifts rough. Took to transmission guy,
he said transmission was fine; it was some kind of other problem Code he gave me
was P1728. Ford dealer today told me code says slippage and need new transmission
or overhaul $$$$$$. When you unhook battery, for few minutes, it resets itself and
then the truck runs great, no problems with transmission shifts until the next time.
I have found a lot of people on the Internet with same problem, haven't found anyone
who had solution. Can you help?
Answer: P1728 indicates that the transmission is slipping.
When the computer that controls the transmission detects a fault code like P1728,
it will put the transmission into a "limp" mode. To resolve this problem, you will
need to get your transmission overhauled.
Question: 1999 Toyota Camry, miles: 89,000. I am getting trouble code
P015 which is the transmission control module relay failure. The transmission seems
to bog down when accelerating, then eventually picks up and behaves normally. Also
lost the speedometer about the same time. I purchased a new transmission control
module relay from the Dodge dealer, but can't find the relay under my hood. The
shop manual refers to it but does not locate it on any diagram I have found. The
service manager and mechanic at the Dodge dealer were equally perplexed when they
tried to locate the relay for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Answer: Code P015 for your make and model indicates a failed
vehicle speed sensor. This would account for your speedometer and your transmission
not working properly. Replacing it should fix your problem. Recheck and clear codes.
MORE: Transmission questions
Repair Topics / Transmission-1
/ Transmission-2 /
Transmission-3 /
Transmission-4 /
Transmission-5
/ Transmission-6 /
Transmission-7
/ Transmission-8
/ Transmission-9
/ Transmission-10
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