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Car Transmission Fluid Problems This
category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.

Question:
2002 Toyota Corolla, miles: 89,000 I was told by some
service person that it is recommended to
change the transmission fluid completely at
30,000 and the same for the fluid in the
radiator. This does not sound correct. The
transmission fluid has only slight color
change and the coolant had little or no
color change.
Answer: Check your owner’s manual
for the recommended service schedule. These
schedules are only guides, however. You
should be aware, service intervals very
depending on driving conditions and habits.
Depending on where you live, 30,000 may not
be unreasonable. Color change is a criteria
but it must be viewed together with chemical
condition.
Question: 2001 GMC 1500
mileage: 101,000. The transmission in the
"GMC" seems to be operating correctly but
each week when the fluid is checked a pint
or so of fluid must be added. There is no
evidence of a leak at the transmission pan
or anywhere else on the case. The transfer
case is also dry. If we park the vehicle on
clean paper to detect a leak, there are no
drops of oil present even after a long
weekend. The engine seems to be running
clean with no signs of fouling or blue-black
smoke. Where can the transmission fluid be
going?
Answer: If the outside of
the transmission is completely dry, the only
other place it can leak is into the transfer
case. If this is the case, the seal in
between the two has failed.
Question: 1999 Isuzu Rodeo,
mileage: 50,000. I would like to change the
automatic transmission fluid in my vehicle
(I am familiar with the procedure on older
vehicles) but on my Isuzu the transmission
is a sealed unit. It has an overfill and
drain plug. I drained approximately 3 quarts
and filled it with about the same amount
through the overfill hole so the best I was
able to do was a partial change (total
capacity = 9.1qts). I have searched
everywhere for information on how to service
this type of transmission (4L30-E) to no
avail. Regardless of whether or not it is
supposed to be serviced at 100,000+ miles I
would rather change oil than change a
transmission. How do you change the oil on
this type of transmission? The service
manual I have gives no specifics.
Answer: To change all of
the transmission fluid you must use a transmission fluid flush machine
Question: 1999 BMW
325is mileage: 90,000. The automatic
transmission was replaced under warranty at
approx. 30K miles. I went to replace the
fluid and noticed that there is a BMW
sticker on the underside of the transmission
that says the transmission is equipped with
"lifetime ATF" and not to replace the fluid.
What do you recommend regarding changing the
fluid? If I should replace the fluid, for
this particular car at what periodicity do
you recommend replacing the fluid and filter
and what type of fluid should I use (that is
compatible with "lifetime fluid")?
Answer: Lifetime fluid
means you do not change the fluid. This
fluid is only available from BMW.
Question:
2003 Toyota 4Runner, mileage: 61,000.
After running an hour or so on a long trip
the transmission oil light comes on showing
it is overheating. Pull over and let
it idle until cool down, but it will do it
again unless speed held under sixty.
Had transmission flushed, but it keeps on
happening. Suggestions for fixing the
problem most welcome.
Answer: Check the temp
sender for the transmission. It sounds like
it has failed and needs replacing to repair
problem.
Question:
2001 Ford Explorer, mileage: 65,000. I
am going to change the transmission fluid
for the second time in the vehicle.
I had no problems the first time, however I
only drained the transmission, not the
torque converter. I looked for a drain
plug in the converter but could not find
one. I would like to drain all the
fluid this time around. Any
suggestions on how to drain ALL the fluid
from both transmission and torque converter?
Answer: To
change all of the transmission fluid you
must use a transmission fluid flush machine.
Question:
2001 Toyota Tacoma 4x4, mileage: 70,000.
Do you check A/T fluid with engine running
or off, hot or cold? The manual says
nothing about checking AT fluid.
Answer: Normally the fluid
is checked with the engine running in park
at operating temperature. However,
your transmission may be “sealed” with no
dipstick.
Question:
1999 Ford Windstar, mileage: 103,600.
Hi, I am sure you have heard some doozies.
What do I need to do when I put transmission
fluid in my oil? Did a complete oil
change with a flush and a transmission fluid
change. It seamed to run better.
When I stop its slow starting out and
something in the back of the van roars, and
there is some jerking also.
Please help I am a waiting to hear from you.
Answer:
Your transmission may be low on fluid.
The transmission fluid level should be
checked with the engine running and
transmission lever in park.
Question:
2001 Volvo V70 turbo, mileage: 50,000.
Volvo recommended a full AT flush every 20K
miles. Now (850/70 series) they do not
call for any changes at all. Several
owners feel that this is because newer
technology in the electronically controlled
AT units (with lock-up in 3 of the 4 gears)
does not harm the fluid as the older AT
units did, hence does not need new fluid
over the life of the car. Furthermore,
they claim that new fluid could actually be
harmful, as the possibility exists that
microscopic dirt particles enter the AT and
cause damage. With this as
background, my questions are about newer
electronic AT units in general, not just the
Volvo units in particular: 1) Do newer
electronic AT units need periodic fluid
changes? If so, at what interval?
2) Is it better to do a complete flush and
fill over a longer duration or a partial
drain and top-off over a shorter duration?
(The question arises because a complete
flush and fill may be quite difficult to do,
while a partial drain and top-off can
potentially be done at every oil change.)
3) Have you ever heard of dirt introduced
via the dipstick or with fresh fluid
destroying a newer AT unit? Any
comments would be greatly appreciated.
Answer: Check
your owner’s manual for the recommended
service schedule. These schedules are only
guides, however. You should be aware,
service intervals very depending on driving
conditions and habits.
Question: 1999
Jeep Grand Cherokee Limit, mileage: 93,887.
I recently changed the automatic
transmission filter, gasket & fluid. The
fluid that I used was the Dextron 2. Now
when I check the fluid, the fluid has
several air type bubbles. What could be
causing the bubbles and what needs to be
done to correct the problem? If I check the
fluid when the engine isn't running there
isn't any.
Answer: Your transmission may be
low on fluid. The bubbles may be the result
of air and fluid being sucked up into the
filter and pump. Check the fluid level first
thing in the morning after the bubbles have
settled down over night.
Question: 2001
Mercedes Benz C260 mileage: 90,000. Want to
change transmission filter and pan gasket.
Because of mileage and not sure when and if
prior owner changed fluid, I am afraid to
have fluid replaced. Present fluid clear and
unburned. Should I chance or will someone
just change filter and gasket?
Answer: Change the
transmission filter and gasket and at the
same time replace the fluid in the pan. With
the transmission pan down, inspect for
metallic particles. A slight amount
is normal.
Question: 2004 Ford
Freestar, miles: 78,000 . Recently in the
morning after reversing the car out of our
driveway and slipping into drive the
transmission will not engage for a few
seconds. Upon engagement, it drives fine all
day long. Is this a band adjustment, or a
symptom of worse trouble on the way? If this
is a band adjustment, what is the band
adjustment procedure and specifications I
should use? Thanks in advance for our help.
P.S. It has been a few years since I turned
wrenches at repair shop!
Answer: A low fluid
level in the transmission may cause the
problem you describe. Check for external
leaks. Also, you might have a problem in the
seal for the torque converter.

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