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Repair Topics / Engine Timing
Belt-1 / Engine Timing
Belt-2 /
Engine Timing
Belt-3 / Engine
Timing Belt-4
Car and Truck Engine Timing Belt Service This
category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 1999 Toyota Camry, mileage:
97,000. Last summer I was cruising at about
55 and my car suddenly stopped. It had
broken the timing belt and the timing chain.
I've taken it to (2) different repair shops
4 different times to try to get it timed
right and they just can't seem to get it. It
runs great in drive but when you put it in
over drive, it vibrates until your reach
about 55 mph. I've had the spark plugs and
wires changed but it still won't run right.
They can't find the right book with the
diagram for the spark plug wires. What else
could be the problem and where in the world
can I take this car to get it running right?
Answer: A compression check of
the engine should be done. When the timing belt broke,
it may have bent a valve or two If ok then recheck the
belt timing.
Question: 2001 Nissan Sentra,
mileage: 77,000. I purchased a used Nissan Stanza about
a year ago. The car is no longer running and I was told
by a mechanic that it needs a new timing belt. What
happened was the car had been bucking a little and then
just stopped running as I was on my way home. No noise,
nothing. It was as if the car just turned itself off.
Here is my question. Does this car have two timing
belts? Second question. My son looked at the car too and
he doesn't think the timing belt is the problem. He
thinks that it could be the flywheel, whatever that is.
I am a single parent, student, and work. I don't have a
lot of money but need my car desperately. I was told
that when the timing belt goes the engine goes because
valves are usually bent. If this is the case and this is
what happened to my car, is there a way to tell if the
valves have been bent without spending hoards of money
just to find out if the care is useless?
Answer: There is only one
timing belt and the symptoms you described would lead us
to believe that indeed your timing belt failed. There is
a reasonably good chance that if the timing belt failed
the valves were not damaged. It would be extremely rare
for the flywheel to cause the problem you described.
Question: 1998 Honda Civic, mileage:
108,000. I am changing the timing belt for my
Honda. I already have all that I will need. I would like
to know what the marks are and in what position they
have to be in. And I'd like to know how to do it without
books.
Answer: First put the engine
on top dead center and mark the pulleys. Then just
loosen the old belt and slip the new one on. Be
careful not to move any of the pulleys, reassemble to
recheck.
Question: 1999 Dodge Caravan,
mileage: 130,000. My faithful Caravan failed the other
night. She started and let me go a few feet before
stalling and failing to restart. I suspected the timing
belt gave up, but when I pulled the top cover, the belt
appears intact, and under tension. When I crank the
engine, the belt is not turning. Is it possible that the
belt has failed and jammed? Or, am I on the wrong track?
Answer: You are on the right
track - the timing belt has failed. The belt is still
under tension because the teeth on the inside belt have
been stripped off. Rarely does the belt break when it
fails.
Question: 2002 Hyundai Elantra,
miles: 78,000 My brothers Elantra quit running,
when we pulled off the upper timing belt cover, we could
see the timing belt, when he turned the car over we
could see that the belt was not moving, the belt was not
loose and did not appear to be broken (at least not from
the view that we had from the upper timing belt cover).
Does this sound as though the timing belt has
broken, and if so I have read, that if these Hyundai
motors do break a timing belt, that the piston will hit
the valves causing severe engine damage. Do you think
that may be what we're looking at, and if so can you
tell me approximately how much we are looking at to do
the necessary repairs?
Answer: The timing belt has
failed. What you are seeing are the results of the teeth
shearing off of the inside of the belt. The valves may
or may not be bent. Try replacing the belt and doing a
compressions check. If the compression check is okay,
the valves are not bent. If they are bent, the valve
will need to be repaired.
Question: 1998 Toyota 4Runner,
mileage: 151,000. Took my 4Runner to the Toyota dealer
to change the timing belt. It was changed before at 65k
it now has 151k. They ran into a problem. There is a
pulley, which is bolted onto the crankshaft. They turn
the bolt 3 times and said it should have broken free and
been able to hand turn. The said that they can try to
cut the bolt off and remove the pulley to see what's
going on behind there. But, they said I would most
likely need a new engine bottom. Roughly $3-5k job. Does
this sound right?
Answer: It sounds as if the
threads that hold the bolt to the bottom pulley on the
crankshaft are stripped. When the belt was changed at
65,000 miles it may have been over-tightened, which
could damage the threads. What we would do is remove the
radiator and the grill to gain clear access to the front
of the engine. Then we'd remove the bolt in question. If
it broke off, we would drill it out and tap the end of
the crankshaft. If the threads were damaged beyond
repair, we would drill and tap it out to the next size
larger. This would cost considerably less that $3000.00,
more like a couple hundred dollars.
Question: 1999 Ford Escort, mileage:
169,000. I had my timing belt/water pump/tensioner
replaced 2 months ago as preventative maintenance. My
problem is the engine was mouse-quiet before, now it
makes a growling, whirring type noise now when
accelerating or letting off the accelerator to shift
(manual trans.). I took it back to the shop and they
said it was fine, that some belts and designs make
noise; mine was quiet compared to some. They also
indicated they set the tensioner to specs, whatever that
means. I have done my homework on this lately, as I am
getting nowhere with the shop, and I can't afford to
have it done over somewhere else. My understanding is
that you loosen tensioner bolt, pry back tensioner, then
re-tighten. Put new belt on, loosen bolt, let tensioner
snap against new belt, then tighten, no provision for
manual adjustment as far as I can tell. They said they
routinely 'assist' tensioner to put a little extra
tension on belt. I had the whole thing apart, but
couldn't seem to get lower part of timing cover to
release from engine, otherwise would have done it over
myself. Is this normal for the belt to make noise? It is
even kind raucous sounding at idle. Eric.
Answer: It sounds like they
over-tightened the timing belt. At this point, we would
recommend putting on a new belt and properly tension the
belt.
Question: 2002 Dodge Neon, mileage:
64,000. Engine is running rough and at times, producing
very little power. I took it to an authorized service
dealer for diagnosis. They said the "upstream oxygen
sensor" has failed and needs to be replaced. That
sounded fine to me. Next, citing the mileage of the car,
the tech earnestly mentioned that the timing belt should
be replaced. I understand the implications of a failed
timing belt but I was rather surprised that it would
need replacing at only 64,000 miles. Any thoughts?
Answer: In your owner's
manual, it will tell you the mileage that is suggested
for maintenance of various components on your car.
64,000 miles is about right for a timing belt.
Question: 1999 Nissan Sentra,
mileage: 105,300. I'm planning to have my timing belt
replaced in about 3 weeks on this vehicle. While that is
being replaced I would like to kill two birds with one
stone and replace any pumps that would need to be
replaced soon (according to mileage life expectancy)
maybe oil or water pump? Thanks!
Answer: It would be good
preventative maintenance to replace the water pump,
radiator hoses and drive belts.
Question: 1999 Mitsubishi Montero
mileage: 80,000. Hi, I recently had my timing belt
replaced. Then less than 2 weeks later my engine dies
going down the highway (also the same day as the
mechanic smogged it and the same day I took it in to him
complaining of excessive engine noise and vibration. He
said after looking at the vehicle and test-driving it,
nothing appeared to be wrong). I had the car (94 Gallant
with 2.4 16 valve single ohc) towed to the mechanic.
Mechanic found the motor had zero compression and the
valves appeared to be bent (he showed me the loose
rocker arms and pried on the valves till the rocker arms
no longer wobbled I never got to see the head). After he
removed the head, there were visible marks on the
pistons from two of the valves on each cylinder. My
question is what caused this? The car is still at the
dealer and he is working on it. He hasn't told what
caused the damage. Lay people that have had a similar
situation have told me that the timing belt has
jumped.... Help!
Answer: Zero compression and
marks on the pistons from the valves, would only
indicate one thing, that the new timing belt somehow
came loose allowing the belt to jump resulting in bent
valves.
Question:
2001 Ford Escort, mileage: 79,000. I was told I
had to change the timing belt by my mechanic. The
book says no on the 1.9 engine, who do I believe in?
Answer:
It is a mileage as well as a time factor when to change
the timing belt. Under the circumstances, your car
being a 2001, your mechanic is right. Timing belts
get old and thus become brittle and prone to crack.
Question:
2002 Dodge Caravan, miles: 102,000. I'm getting
conflicting information... The Gates replacement
belt web page and several messages on various bulletin
boards say the six cylinder, 3.0 liter Dodge Caravan
engine is a non-interference engine while several other
postings and the Alldata repair manual say that it is an
interference engine. I lost my timing belt
while driving about 60 mph and tried to start the
vehicle several times before I realized what had
happened. The van is a with 102,000 miles on
the original engine (as far as I know.) I don't
want to put a lot of money into repairing it. What
are the chances the valves are OK?
Answer: Our sources identify your
engine as a non-interference type. However, we
have found that occasionally the valves still get bent
when the timing belt brakes. In order to
determine if the valves are bent, put a timing belt on
and do a compression check.
Question:
2000 Mercedes C230, mileage: 123,000. Hi guys,
this web page is awesome! I have a couple of
questions regarding maintenance. I believe my
engine uses a timing chain and not a belt. In any
case, at what mileage would you recommend changing the
chain (or belt)? Also, it seems like some days, my
car runs very strong but then once in awhile it feels
very sluggish. I know the honeycomb in my
catalytic converter is damaged/loose. Could this
be related to the power loss or is it something else?
If the car needed a tune-up, I would think it would run
poorly all of the time. This problem seems to be
more sporadic. Thank You,
Answer: As a general rule, timing
belts should be change at approximately 60,000 miles.
Timing chains have a longer life and are normally
changed during an engine overhaul. Your car has a
timing chain. As to your sluggish problem, if the
catalytic converter is damaged, the exhaust is likely
being restricted. Or the mass air flow meter needs
replacing.
Question:
1999 Ford Escort, mileage: 120,000. I recently
bought this car as a second car to travel to work.
The previous owner recommended the timing belt be
changed at this time. My mechanic said this
car did not have a timing belt. Please explain.
Answer:
Yes, it has a timing belt and it should be changed to
prevent engine operation failure.

Repair Topics / Engine Timing
Belt-1 / Engine Timing
Belt-2 /
Engine Timing
Belt-3 / Engine
Timing Belt-4
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