1997
Chevrolet k1500 truck 4x4 350 mileage:
100,000. Hey guys here's the deal, using my
Haynes manual I trouble shot my problem,
truck won't start. Found that fuel pump was
not initially turning on at accessory,
before ignition. Replaced internal fuel
pump, fuel pump turned on, and the truck
started right up. Next morning went to work
about 6-7 miles, drove home after work,
drove to the store and truck died while
turning into store, but started right back
up. I parked and when I came back out, truck
would not start, noticed no sound of fuel
pump turning on, kept trying and then it
worked and truck stared. Then died on the
way out of parking lot, would not restart so
I had it towed back home. Now if I leave the
truck sitting for a while it might start
like in the morning, but only run for like
ten minutes then start right back up, but
die a little later. I have shook the truck
while running to see if maybe it's a loose
wire, but it keeps running, and also my air
bag light is on, but not willing to risk
having to get truck towed again to make it
to the dealership. Can my air bag circuit be
turning my fuel pump off? Or do I have a
different problem. Thanks for taking my
question, guys...from one puzzled mechanic.
Answer:
Initially, the airbag light should not stop the fuel
pump from working. We would first check the fuel pump
relay then check to see if the new fuel pump is faulty.
Also, be aware that some Chevy trucks around 1997 had
bad ignition switches.
Question: 1987 Ford Mustang 5.0
mileage: -. I was driving my car and it started to cut
out here and there. It would stall out sometimes or just
not start other times; I could here that the fuel pump
was not on when the car was dying or not starting. It
finally died and had to be towed home. After I got home
the car started right up. Then it was dead again later
on that night. I dropped the tank and changed the
connection where the wires plug to the fuel pump on the
cap because they were in pretty bad shape. After that,
the car started right up and drove around for a while
and it ran great. Got home went to go back out and it
was dead again so I did not fix anything there. It
seemed to me that my fuel pump was on its way out so I
changed it. That did nothing. I tested the old pump and
both are working fine. So, I changed the fuel pump relay
under the seat and that was not it either. I tested the
wires with a meter, I had the car hooked up with jumper
cables and I was getting 10.8 to 11 volts at the cap of
the tank. I was also getting the same out of the relay.
I am getting 13.5 volts from the battery when hooked up
to the jumper cables, and I was getting 13.5 out of the
inertia switch in the trunk, the power was going through
the switch so I think it is fine. What else could be the
problem? The 11 volts at the tank would not even light a
test lamp (I FIGURED IT SHOULD AT LEAST LIGHT THAT) but
no. I am having no luck and am not sure what to do. I
tried grounding the ground wire coming out of the pump
to the frame and that did nothing so I assume the ground
is ok. Sorry for the long explanation.
Answer: You will need a wiring
diagram to help you trace the power wire so you can
locate the voltage drop that is occurring on your fuel
pump. A Mitchell, Chilton or Haynes auto repair manual
or a manual from the dealer will have diagrams showing
what you are looking for.
Click here to find out more

Question: 1987 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0
liter mileage: 110,000. Problem occurred a few months
back when car just died on the road we had to get it
towed to the house. 3-4 months later, we decided to work
on it. We replaced head gasket, manifold intake gasket,
plugs and new wires, pickup coil. Now after the battery
is fully charged when we try to start it, it takes
around 5 minutes to start. After it is started when you
press the gas pedal it makes some noise like bup, bup
then tries to catch up and dies. You can start it again
but as soon as you give some gas it dies, then you
cannot start it you have to let it stay for some time
then put some starting fluid in the intake and start
again and then the whole cycle repeats again. We are
thinking of replacing the oxygen sensor, because the
computer is not showing any codes. Will replacing the
oxygen sensor solve our problem? If not what should we
do?
Answer: The oxygen sensor is not
your problem. First, check the timing belt or chain to
make sure it is installed properly. Check compression
and fuel pump pressure. Also, check the ignition timing.

Question: 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier
mileage: 45,000. My 1997 Cavalier does not start during
cold weather (60 or below). I've already flushed the
radiator fluid and replaced it as per manufacturer's
specs. What can it be and why does it only happen during
cold weather? The car runs and starts fine during warm
temperatures.
Answer: Scan the computer for fault
codes first. If no fault codes are present, try
replacing the coolant temperature sensor for the
computer.

Question: 1990 Dodge Caravan 3.3L
mileage: 135,000. I sent a question yesterday saying I
had replaced the coolant sensor and now there is no
spark. Well I have done a more thorough investigation.
The sensor was not the problem, there appears to be a
break in one of the wires from the sensor to the
computer. I also checked the voltage at the coil pack.
It reads about 11.5V then drops to zero when I crank the
engine. My Chilton, repair manual says to look in
section 5 about distributor pickup diagnostics when this
happens, but Chapter 5 is all about fuel. So, I don't
know what the problem can be.
Answer: Check the control module by
the battery, as it may be faulty. Also, check the
ignition switch.

Question: 1990 Dodge Dynasty. Starts
sometimes and sometimes it won't. Talked to others with
the same or similar problem. Was told it is ECM. But, he
still had the problem of it not starting a couple of
weeks later. Then someone told him about a safety switch
in the ignition that he had replaced and the problem was
solved. My question is, does the 90 dynasty have this
computer type safety switch in the ignition system to
protect the car parts from burning up? And, have you
ever come across this problem before with other
Dynastys. Thank you I am trying to find a direction to
go.
Answer: We do not know of any safety
switch that you mentioned in your question. Two things
to check would be the fuel pump and the crank angle
sensor.

Question: 95 Chevy Geo Metro 1.0. I
just recently replaced the head gasket on my geo, I
flushed the system and filled the cooling system with
50/50 antifreeze. That night I was driving the car and
got about 2 blocks from home and the car died. The
engine turns over but there is now no spark going to the
distributor. I am at a loss as to where to check now. I
have checked all fuses but not sure of any possible
in-line fuses under the hood.
Answer: Check the timing belt, as it
may not have been properly tightened when the head
gasket was replaced.

Question: 1993 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2
mileage: 131,000. While driving today the fuel pump fuse
blew. I replaced it and went on my way. Got in later and
after a few seconds of running the engine quit. This
time there was no bad fuse and the relay checks. No
trigger voltage to fuel pump relay, though. Even
supplying current to fuel pump with jumper, no start.
Trigger comes directly from ECM. ECM fuse and relay are
fine. Bad ECM? Auto cut off for wrecks. Help....
Answer: Check your fuel pump as it
may be failing and be the cause of the initial fuse burn
out.

Question:
1988 Ford/ Escort GT 1.9 mileage: 127,000. My car
has been sitting in a repair shop for a year now and the
mechanic can not figure out what is wrong. The
fuel injectors were messing up and he replaced all of
the injectors and the computer and still there are 2
injectors that fail to ground and the car won't run.
Any suggestions?
Answer:
Check the computer output that operators the injectors.
Also, check the wiring loam that runs from the injectors
to the computer for damage and continuity.

Question:
1992 Jeep wrangler 4.0 mileage: 123,000. My jeep
wrangler (92) was idling then shut down, it will not
start. The engine turns over but will not catch. I
am guessing it could be the idle air sensor.
Answer:
We are guessing a crank angle sensor.

Question:
1989 Chevrolet Astro van 4.3L mileage: 158,000. I
have replaced the fuel pump, coil, and module p/u in the
distributor. I have power to the coil and to the
back of the distributor to the module, but still no
spark from the coil wire to the distributor, HELP.
Where to go next. It is not showing any code last
time I check the ECM.
Answer:
Check the wiring for damage and check pin to pin with a
continuity meter to see if you have a bad connection
somewhere in the harness.

Question:
1990 Chevrolet Beretta GTZ 2.3 DOHC mileage: 62,000.
Car is failing to start. It started a couple of minutes
before, and it started fine. I went to start it
again and it didn't start. It was turning so it
wasn't a starter problem. It sounds like it's
firing, but just barely, and not enough for it to run.
We checked for spark there was spark. We checked
airflow, I'm getting that. We changed the fuel
filter because gas wasn't squirting out of the Schrader
valve when opened, it was just kinda dribbling.
Now none comes out at all. The flow arrow is
facing the right direction. We were told check for
fuel pump starting whine. We didn't hear any.
So it may be the relay switch or the fuel pump its self.
Do fuel pumps just go or do they kinda go bad over time?
I was driving around all day with no problems. I
figured it might just be the relay because it just
"died.” I do not on the other hand know where
either of the location for my relay or my fuel pump.
Help I need help please!
Answer: Sounds like you have a faulty
fuel pump which is located in the gasoline tank.
Question:
1995 Dodge Neon 2.0L mileage: 56K. Hello Bob and
Ken, My daughter's Neon Problem. The engine cranks
over but will not start. I have checked the error
code and it says 42, (fuel pump or auto shutoff
solenoid) and I cannot hear the fuel pump whine.
The fuse and solenoids test good so I replaced the fuel
pump, but still have the same result. So, being a
backyard mechanic, I cheated the relays and was able to
energize the pump, gas is present at the injectors with
no leaks in the lines. I thought it might
then, be a timing belt problem. Everything lines
up and I've even taken the plugs out and put a little
gas in the cylinders. Turned it over and it
starts, so I figure timing and spark are there. I
guess that leaves me with an injector or power module
problem. **An Important note, My Daughter said she
was bumped from behind when she stopped for a traffic
light, nothing serious. But since then, it became
harder to start each day! I know there's an
emergency shutoff sensor, but I thought it would shut
fuel completely off not work in between. Any Ideas
or Thoughts would be welcomed; I've gone way beyond my
capabilities. Thanks, Steve
Answer:
We do not know of an emergency fuel shut-off sensor your
car. What you should do is scan the PCM for
fault codes, which should pinpoint your malfunctioning
component.

Question:
1988 Chevy S-10 2.5L 4 cyl mileage: 207,289. My
truck will crank but fails to start. I can no longer
hear the humming of the fuel pump. It is my guess
that this has gone bad. However, I was told that
there was a fuse in the engine compartment that I could
check to see if it might be blown. I cannot find
any fuse.
Maybe I am not looking in the right spot. I am
holding out hope that it could possible be this simple
since I don't see much sense in dumping a lot of money
into this truck. Where is this fuse located.
Answer: There is no fuse that we know of for the fuel pump. Check
for 12-volts to the pump. If there is 12-volts and the pump does not run,
it should be replaced.

Question:
1991 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 5.7l mileage: 113,000.
After I have driven the car for about 30 minutes, I shut
it off and it will not re-start for about an hour.
I have taken it to 2 different GM dealers, and have
spent close to $3,500 replacing the fuel injectors,
catalytic converters, the entire ECM, and several other
components...it still does this on occasions...please
help!
Answer:
If the fuel pump has not been changed, this would be our
first guess. Secondly, you may have a faulty PCM (power
control module) power relay.

Question:
1993 Ford Taurus 3.8 mileage: 85,000. The Taurus
has a warm re-start problem. It typically occurs
in warm weather. After the car has been run for a
while and shut off, attempts to start it again within
5-20 minutes after shut-off has problems. (Inside
5m or past 20m starts fine.) Stumbling, stalls,
etc. force one to feather the throttle to keep it going.
Sounded like TSB for fuel pump internal vacuum lock, but
pump, EGR, and O2 sensor did not help. Any
thoughts before I keep shot gunning with injector
cleaning or ignition module?
Answer:
We do not think your problem is the ignition module. Try running the
engine and shutting it off to duplicate your no start situation. Then,
check the fuel injectors for a minor leak that would be flooding the engine.
If you find a leak, the cure is to replace the injectors.

Question:
1994 Ford Probe GT V-6 mileage: 60,000. My fuel
cut-out light is on. No it will not start. I have
lost my manual. I have checked the fuses that I
think would affect the fuel pump. I have also
looked in the truck for the reset button for the
electric pump. What I think to be the reset button
in the trunk is sitting in the driver's side rear panel
covered with a rubber boot. I pushed what looks
like a reset button with no results. What am I
missing? Help! Your help would be greatly
appreciated.
Answer:
Check the fuel pump relay, as this may be causing your
no start problem.

Question:
1997 CHEVY K1500 5.7 mileage: 72,000. A couple of
weeks ago the truck had problems starting, then died in
flight. Now the truck has no spark, no MIL and no data
when scanning did find a wiring harness rubbing on the
harmonic balancer and a broken ground wire at the fuel
pump. (REPAIRED) The customer did that when
replacing his own pump, sock and relay. I’m
thinking computer but I don't have the information to
test the VCM or DLC.
Answer:
Check the ignition switch your problem may be a bad
contact inside the switch.

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