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Car Engine Will Not Start Questions
Question: 1991 Plymouth Laser 2.0L mileage: 156,000. Turn ignition on nothing,
play with the key and can hear the starter solenoid trying to engage slowly. Will
start once in awhile. Had Starter and Battery tested (physically took out and had
auto store put a load on it) - they both checked out. Owners manual indicates a
starter relay under dash, called dealer and several auto parts stores, there is
none listed (Mitsubishi Engine). Found three relays under dash above fuse box. Left
one unknown, middle one found it was the door lock relay, right one unknown. Manual
transmission must have clutch in to start. There is a switch that engages when clutch
is pushed in, maybe causing problem? Since the starter and battery check out, I
think I have narrowed down to: 1. Starter relay (if there is one), 2. Clutch switch,
3. Bad wiring harness (+ cable is a wiring harness). Any thoughts? Joe
Answer: Check the voltage at the starter and the solenoid while trying
to start the car. You may have a voltage drop somewhere in the system.
Question: 1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 2.4 mileage: 144,000. My truck will
not start because I'm not getting any spark from the coil. I used a screw driver
(inserted into the spark plug wire) to verify that I had no spark from the distributor.
On the advice of a friend, I changed my distributor. This was no help. I then changed
the coil assembly (the coil and the power "igniter"). No help. I put an analog meter
on the coil and cranked the car but there was no deflection of the meter. It read
a constant 12 volts dc on both terminals. Being an electronics technician, I pulled
the ECM (computer) from under the dash. There appears no be no burn components inside
but that doesn't mean its is not bad. I verified that the engine switch was working.
I know that the truck desperately needs an O2 sensor to pass smog but will this
cause the engine not to run? Is there anything else in the circuit that I'm missing?
Do you know if and where this computer can be tested and or repaired (if bad). Do
you know where the test connector to read the codes is located? One part of my Hayes
manual says its is behind the fuse panel and another part says it is behind the
radio. Please help. I really don't want to spend the money on a computer until I
am positive it is the problem. One more question. If the distributor is not installed
exactly in the same spot will this cause no spark? Or, will this just cause the
engine to run rough. I also made sure piston #1 was top dead center (tdc) upon installation.
I was not sure which was the compression stroke and which was the exhaust stroke
so I tried the distributor both ways. The truck would not start either way. Thank
you for your time and effort. Ken
Answer: Check to make sure that the timing belt\chain has not failed causing
the camshaft not to rotate with the engine when cranking. We would bet this is your
problem. However, if it is not, it is possible that a bad sensor could be keeping
your car from starting. Test them by unplugging them one at a time, testing to see
if your car will start each time.
Question: 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 2.8 mileage: 105,000. I pulled
the car in the driveway the night before and shut it off, went out the next morning
to go to work and it wouldn't start.... It will crank over.... So I pulled the number
5 plug wire and grounded it then cranked motor. There was no spark. I pulled the
coil pack and tested one terminal off of the module to ground with a test light
with the ignition on... 12v on one term, nothing on the other. Jumped between the
ignition module pins with test light and didn't have any fire either while cranking
engine.... Pulled the oil filler plug on the valve cover and looked inside to see
if valves were opening and closing. (Timing chain) they were... I also have a 90
Chevy Lumina with the same ignition module and coil packs took it off of my Lumina
and installed it on the cutlass with no luck. Same results... Any other idea's....
Thanks for your help. Mike
Answer: If your car is equipped with the factory installed antitheft devise,
it may be malfunctioning keeping your car from starting. It would be wise to check
the crank angle sensor for proper operation. Also, scan the computer for fault codes.
Question: 1989 Ford Mustang 2.3L mileage: 200,000. My 2.3L Mustang stopped
dead in its tracks, with no warning I am not getting any spark and have tested the
coil and replaced the ignition module. I get a code 11 and code 14, which my Haynes
manual tells me, is an "Ignition profile pickup failure". Is the computer a likely
cause or should I look somewhere else before replacing it?
Answer: It could be a broken timing belt or you may need to change the
pick-up coil (crank angle sensor).
Question: 1988 Ford Escort 1.9L mileage: 150,000. My Daughter's
Escort has been running without problems for several months. When leaving
work yesterday, her car would not start. Today I checked that the fuel pump
was working and with the air filter, cover off can see fuel being pumped into the
carburetor. Checking the sparkplugs (with a screwdriver inserted into a plug
wire and placing it near a ground, there is no arc. This escort is set as
a typical "TFI" ignition according to the Haynes repair manual however I hesitate
to replace the e-core ignition coil without further information on what may be wrong.
Thanks for your suggestions and help.
Answer: Ignition coils normally do not fail on your model car. Check
the ignition module, as it is probably your problem.
Question: 1993 Mazda 626 2.0 Litre mileage: 107,000. Recently my
son was driving the car and the alternator belt broke. Everything is fine
so far; I get a belt, replace it and think everything is rosy. I go
to start the car and it turns over but no ignition. So I take out the plugs
all cylinders have fire, but the cylinders are flooded. OK I get serious,
I pull the fuel pump relay, and turn the car over for about 2 minutes, check the
cylinders (dry), dry the plugs, put the plugs in, put the relay back in and think
everything is rosy. Go to start the car it turns good you can hear a cylinder
or two trying to catch but no go. I have tried the last procedure about 5
times now and the engine floods every time. I never had this happen to me
before can you HELP me.
Answer: Check the fuel pressure regulator. If that checks out okay,
scan the computer for fault codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning
components.
Question: 1993 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0 liter 4 cyl mileage: 130,000.
I have intermittent starting problems. Battery O.K. Get full dash lights with key
on. Turn key, get a small click. Upon trying to start it nothing then
all of a sudden it starts after a few dozen tries. When the car is running
computer diagnostics show no codes, yet this problem will happen from time to time.
Answer: Intermittent problems are very difficult to find. When the
problem of the no start occurs, here are some things to check: Load test the battery.
Check that the battery cable connections are clean. Check for 12 volts to
starter solenoid with the key in the start position. These things should be
checked first then the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter and starter
solenoid. One of these may be faulty.
Question: 1990 Dodge Ram 250 5.2 liter mileage: 125,000. One day
I went to start my van and it wouldn’t start. My question is where is the
control unit for the electronic ignition located? I have searched high and
low, checked books and manuals. They left me in the dust. Now keep in mind
that I have replaced the coil, plugs, wires, cap and rotor prior to the non-starting
problem and she ran just fine. Please help me find the unit. Thank you
for listening.
Answer: The single module engine controller (SMEC) is located on the center
of the firewall above the engine.
Question: 1986 Buick Riviera V6 mileage: 125,000. The car skipped
time and I replaced the timing belt and gear. Also replaced valves as they bent
when it skipped time. I have the engine back together, but it will not start.
The ignition turns but it won't crank. HELP! We love this car!
Answer: With a wrench, turn the crankshaft slowly by hand. There
is a chance that there is a valve contacting a piston. If you can make
two revolutions by hand, then here are some things to check. Load test the
battery. Check that the battery cable connections are clean. Check for
12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position. These things
should be checked first then the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter
and starter solenoid. One of these may be faulty.
Question: 1983 Chevy 305 mileage: 114,000. In the past after driving
the car on every once in a while it would not start. No spark would be present,
after sitting overnight, it would usually start. Then it happened one day
and I replaced the module in the distributor and it started. Three days later,
it died again, so I replaced the cap and coil and had no problem for several months,
and then yesterday it quit while I was driving (1st time while driving) so I put
the original module back and it started. I checked all the connections in
the dist. and they look good to the eye. My hats off to you guys if you figure
this out, as I have had many attempts and no successes, and I am afraid this car
will leave me somewhere.
Answer: Your problem would indicate a possible bad pick-up coil in the
distributor or the computer itself is failing.
Question: 1994 Oldsmobile Achieva 3.1 v6 mileage: 108,000. I am
having problems with starting my car. I have been to the dealership 4 times
and am getting frustrated! The car will turn over (crank) but not start.
The instrument Panel will not light up. The abs, battery, seatbelt and other
idiot lights will not light up as well. The first time I kept trying to start
the car and it eventual did (10 attempts). The instrument panel lights suddenly
light up and the car started without hesitation. Took it to the dealer and
they find no computer fault codes. Two weeks later, second time same exact
problem so I didn't keep trying to start it but instead had it towed to the dealer.
The car of course started fine for them. They replaced the ignition switch
but gave no reason why they did this. Three weeks later, third time it wouldn't
start, I kept trying to start it, it eventually did (after the instruments panel
lights relight) and then the car quit running. It didn't sputter or stall
in just quit the battery light didn't even come on. The dealer decides that
this problem might be similar to another car (grand am) in which they replaced the
car's computer. So, they replace it. Eleven days later I started the
car fine drove for 15 minutes came to a stop light at a busy intersection and the
car silently died. The tachometer went to zero, the oil pressure diminished
on the gauge and nothing. None of the idiot lights came on, battery, oil light,
check engine nothing! I tried to restart it to no avail had it towed to the
dealership. They went out to start it, it wouldn't. They got their fault
code checker, fuel pressure gauge, and they pulled a spark plug wire inserted a
device and then grounded it to the engine. The car started fine and showed
no faults. I think they thought I was lying about the no start but put my
car near a shop, mechanic, or diagnostic equipment and it starts without hesitation.
The battery is fairly new, the alternator is about a year old, I had a sticking
egr valve last summer that caused stalling but they freed that up, the transmission
fluid has been recently changed. I maintain my car well. Can you please
help me!
Answer: We think that you are having problems with the main power supply
(12 volts) that supplies the entire car. Check the main fuse panel and the
main power wire from the battery. It is possible you have an internal short
in the battery that occasionally disconnects. This problem may or may not
show up with a battery load test.
Question: 1998 Mercury Mountaineer V6 mileage: 42,000. We took my
car in for an oil change, and afterwards it wouldn't start (unfortunately, our local
neighborhood dealership didn't have an opening for twelve days, so we had to take
the car to a quick lube and oil place - Valvoline) We had to have it towed to a
local Ford dealership, and the mechanics there said the wrong oil was put in the
car, and now the motor is destroyed. What is our recourse? Is the quick
lube shop responsible for the cost of a new motor?
Answer: The type of oil (Valvoline is a good oil) would not have caused
your problem as you described it. We can only guess at what might have happened.
If the lube place forgot to put oil in your car and started it up, it would have
seized the engine. When it was realized that a mistake was made oil was probably
added after the engine seized. Have the Ford dealer check to see if there
is any oil in the oil filter. If the lube place replaced the filter as normally
is done during an oil change, and they forgot to refill with oil before they started
the engine, there will be no oil in the filter.
Question: 1991 Honda Accord 2.2 mileage: 75,000. Before I got the
car, someone replaced the timing belt. My customer was driving it when the
crankshaft pulley came off; that is when we got the car to fix so we put it all
back together got it timed and it will crank but will not start. We
have spark and fuel going to the plugs cause we took them out and laid them on top
of spark plug hole and they ignited don’t know what else to do any help will be
appreciated. Thanks Jim
Answer: If you have spark and fuel, check the compression.
MORE: Engine wont start questions
Repair Topics /
Car Wont Start-1
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/ Car Wont Start-3
/ Car Wont Start-4
/ Car Wont Start-5
/ Car Wont Start-6
/ Car Wont Start-7
/ Car Wont Start-8
/ Car Wont Start-9
/ Car Wont Start-10
/ Car Wont Start-11
/ Car Wont Start-12
/ Car Wont Start-13
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