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Repair Topics / Car Wont Start-1 / Car Wont Start-2 / Car Wont Start-3 / Car Wont Start-4 / Car Wont Start-5 / Car Wont Start-6 / Car Wont Start-7 / Car Wont Start-8 / Car Wont Start-9 / Car Wont Start-10 / Car Wont Start-11 / Car Wont Start-12 / Car Wont Start-13

MORE: Engine wont start questions

Car Engine Will Not Start Questions

Question:
1985 Plymouth Reliant mileage: 46,000.  I'm not quite sure about the size of the engine but it is a 4 cylinder. The choke seems to be open all the time and since it is not fuel-injected, it is really hard to start.  Once it is running there is no problem.  What I want to know is, do I have to get a new choke for it, or a new carburetor.  The reason for the low mileage is it was a one-owner car and he only drove it to work occasionally.

Answer: We do not think you need a new choke or a new carburetor; however, it is possible the choke linkage is stuck and needs to cleaned and adjusted.



Question: 1997 Pontiac Firebird V6 mileage: 40,000.  Hey guys this is my sisters car.  She just got it and it was hit in the rear.  Now it’s all fixed and the body man cant get it cranked.  Seems like no fuel getting to engine.  Is there a fuel cut off valve somewhere and where is it.  No one can find it.  Please help and thank you very much.

Answer: There is no fuel cutoff valve on you vehicle.  Check for 12 volts to the fuel pump.  If 12 volts is present and the pump is not running, replace the pump.   If 12 volts is not present, check the fuel pump relay.


Question: 1995 Pontiac Grand Am 3.1L V6 mileage: 53,127.  Okay here’s the deal.... recently the car was acting up and then it just died.  The lights and gauges work but the car will not start.  I have charged the battery, jumped the car, and replaced the alternator.  Now that I have replaced the alternator, the engine won’t turn over.  I don’t know whether it is the starter or ignition switch.  How can I find out?  The engine doesn’t click or make any noise when trying to start it.  Please HELP!

Answer: Here are some things to check.  Load test the battery.  Check that the battery cable connections are clean.  Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position.   These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter and starter solenoid.  One of these may be faulty.


Question: 1985 Buick century 3.0 mileage: 61,596.  On my century I completely rebuilt the motor ring cam lifter valves, valve seat block checked heads done, now the problem is it won’t fire up.  I get good spark to all the plugs and double-checked timing chain and cam gear to make sure it was in line and had a mechanic trainee check it and we're at a loss as to why it won't start.  Compression on the cylinders ranges from 36 to 40 psi.  I take it the new rings haven't seated, but if it won't start how can they?  Do you have any idea as to why it won't start?  Could it be something in distributor?

Answer: Most likely your car will not start because of the low compression; 36 to 40 psi is way to low.  We doubt seriously that the rings are the problem.  Check the valve timing and also valve clearance; the valve may be too tight.


Question: 1990 Jaguar 6 cylinders 6 cylinders mileage: 45,000.  Our Jag had been in storage for about 1.5 years with the battery disconnected.  It has fuel injection.  We try starting it.  The engine cranks but does not turn over.  No gas at the sparkplugs.  Fuel O.K.  What could be the problem?  How can I get it started?

Answer: Check for fuel pump pressure at the injectors.  If no pressure is present, check for 12-volts at the fuel pump.  If 12-volts are present and the pump does not run, it is obviously the pump.  Replacing it should fix your problem.


Question: 1992 Chevy Lumina 3.1 mileage: 100,000.  I have recently had problems starting my 1992 Lumina.  After finding that there was no spark, I replaced the ECM and checked the coils - still no start.  I then talked to someone who said it was probably the crank position sensor, so I bought a new one.  The problem came when I tried to remove the old one.  It seems like there is only one bolt holding it in place, but after I removed it, I still could not remove the sensor- it seems locked in place.   After a little prying, I moved it out about 1/2 and inch, but cannot get it out any further.  It appears the only thing left to do is drop the oil pan so I can get the sensor the remaining way out.  Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Answer:  If you cannot get the sensor our by prying and turning it, then they only solution left is to remove the oil pan and punch it our from the bottom.


Question: 1990 Olds Delta 88 Royale V6 3800l mileage: 214,000.  She won't start.   Battery is 2 or 3 weeks old.  She gave no indication of a problem.  Drove her all day-short trips-but after letting her sit for a few hours, when I tried to start her, she wouldn't turn over.  All digital dash lights up, but no cranking of any kind.  Replaced starter, and still nothing.  Please help.

Answer: From what you tell us, it sounds like “she” may be having trouble with “her” charging system.  Have “her” battery load tested and check the alternator output for voltage and amperage.


Question: 1988 Buick Skylark 3.0 V6 mileage: 100,000.  My car isn’t starting.  I know its getting flooded.  The spark plugs had gas on them.  The car does have a new fuel pump, but there's something that has me stumped.  When you try to start the car (key is in start position) it doesn't start of course, but when you release the ignition key from the start position back to the on position you hear the fuel pump kicking on again after I just tried to start it.   Right there tells me when it's getting flooded.  I've checked the fuel pump relay it works fine.  What else can I check?  Thank you for your help guys.

Answer: Several things can be causing your problem.  The fuel injectors could be leaking.  The fuel pressure regulator may be malfunctioning causing too high a pressure.  The PCM (computer) or the prom may be failing.


Question: 1990 GMC s15 2.8l 6 cyl mileage: 187,000.  I'm having a starting problem with my pickup.  It is an intermittent problem.  The engine cranks with plenty of power all the time.  When the truck acts up...a tiny squirt of starting fluid into the intake (with air cleaner cover removed and then tightened back to normal before cranking) the engine fires right up every time without hesitation.  When the truck is running it responds directly to the throttle and exhibits no signs of sputtering or stalling.  The problem most often occurs after a short drive allowing the engine to get warm...after the truck sits about half an hour it won't start.  It seems not to be receiving fuel...Last spring I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.  I live in the Northeast and I am wondering if the thermal changes point to the problem.  Any ideas would be much appreciated. 

Answer:   Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system.  An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes.  The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.   If a major tune-up has not been done recently, this could be the cause of your problem.  Replace the spark plugs, plug wires, fuel and air filters, etc.  Also, replace the oxygen sensor.  In addition, service the fuel injection system.  Clean the carbon deposits from the throttle bore and idle passages.


Question: 1994 Dodge/Spirit V-6 mileage: 60,000.  We bought this car used about 8 months ago and have had no problems until recently.  The car already had an alarm system added and we thought this was a good feature, but now we are having problems starting the car.  Our mechanic thinks it may be somehow connected to the alarm system and disconnected the wire to the starter.  The car will start sometimes but lately it is so unreliable we don't know what else to check.  The engine won't even turn over and all we hear are the click of the door locks and maybe 1 click and then nothing.  Help!  What should be checked next?  (We have already replaced the battery and the starter!)

Answer:   Here are some things to check.  Load test the battery.  Check that the battery cable connections are clean.  Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position.  These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter and starter solenoid.  One of these may be faulty.




Question: 1996 Chrysler Concorde LX 3.3L V6 mileage: 70,000.  For the past year and a half car has intermittently failed to start for a dozen or more tries.   These incidents occur about three to six months apart.  When ignition key is turned lights, horn, radio and warning bells operate but when key is turned further to start position, nothing happens including no clicking sound.  On one occasion, changing to the valet car resulted in car starting with no more trouble for several months.  On other occasion, changing keys did not help.  The car has an after-market alarm system but it has been deactivated during the last two no-start incidents.

Answer:   Here are some things to check.  Load test the battery.  Check that the battery cable connections are clean.  Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position.  These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter and starter solenoid.  One of these may be faulty.


Question: 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lar. Straight 6 4.0 mileage: 55,000.  Hey guys, I've been having a starting problem with my jeep for the past 6 months and no one can seem to pinpoint the problem, including two Jeep dealerships I’ve taken it too.   The specific problem is that it takes about a 4 to 5 seconds of cranking time on cold and warm starts (hot starts right up) to get the engine started.  So far I've changed the fuel pump (Carter fuel pump - pressure check shows 50 while running drops to around 40 after turned off and been sitting for awhile but jumps right back up to fifty as soon as the key is cranked - so not the pump), also replaced the air and fuel filter, had the valves de-carboned, changed the spark-plugs and wires, had the fuel injectors cleaned and lastly had the PCU flashed and updated.  I have no idea what else to check now.  The self-diagnostic is showing a 12 and 11 error that are electrical errors but I would think that if it were an electrical problem hot engine starts would be a problem also?  Any thoughts?

Answer:   Try replacing the crank angle sensor, which is located in the back of the motor over the flywheel.  This should help your starting problem.


Question: 1994 Chevy C1500 5.7L mileage: 150,000.  Hi Guys,  My truck has recently developed a hard start problem.  The engine turns over and tries to start, but unless I pump on the gas, it stalls out.  This only happens when the engine is cold, and once the engine runs for 5-10 seconds, it will idle normally and run just fine.  I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap, fuel filter and PCV valve.  Could this problem be in the fuel pump?  How can I tell?

Answer:   Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system.  An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes.  The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.   Also, check the fuel pump pressure.

MORE: Engine wont start questions

Repair Topics / Car Wont Start-1 / Car Wont Start-2 / Car Wont Start-3 / Car Wont Start-4 / Car Wont Start-5 / Car Wont Start-6 / Car Wont Start-7 / Car Wont Start-8 / Car Wont Start-9 / Car Wont Start-10 / Car Wont Start-11 / Car Wont Start-12 / Car Wont Start-13

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