Repair Topics / Car Wont Start-1 / Car Wont Start-2 / Car Wont Start-3 / Car Wont Start-4 / Car Wont Start-5 / Car Wont Start-6 / Car Wont Start-7 / Car Wont Start-8 / Car Wont Start-9 / Car Wont Start-10 / Car Wont Start-11 / Car Wont Start-12 / Car Wont Start-13

• Engine cranks but wont start
• How does a starter and solenoid work?
• Why does my engine stall?
• Why does the engine stall after replacing the battery?
• Why is my engine running rough?
• Why won't my engine crank over?
• Why does my engine have low power output?
• How an idle air controller works
• How an engine works
• How to check compression
• How to retrieve trouble codes
• How to test engine vacuum
• How to test fuel delivery system
• Engine cranks excessively
• Engine stalls
• Rapid ticking sounds when engine is cranked
• How to jump start your engine
• How does a neutral safety switch work?
• Why is my car making a grinding noise?

Answer: You must determine if your engine will not start because of lack of fuel or lack of spark.  If fuel is the problem, check the fuel pump, pressure etc.  If no spark, check the coil, distributor, 12 volts to the coil, etc.

Question: 1992 Ford Explorer V6 mileage: 214,000.  I recently started the car and shut it off.  A few seconds later when attempting to start the car all I got was a click, click sound coming from the relay (mounted next to the battery).  I have replaced the relay, starter, and battery and still only get the click click.   I tested the starter(s) by jumping from the new battery directly to the relay and still nothing happens.  I am now going to replace both battery cables.  Anything else I am missing and or should do?  Thank you

Answer: Your entire starting system may by fine and the engine may be frozen.  If the engine cannot be rotated by hand, it is frozen and it will have to be taken apart to find out why.

Question: 1982 Jeep CJ-7 6 cyl mileage: 65,000.  I can't get my Jeep to start. I turn the ignition key, and I get nothing, except a click somewhere in the engine compartment.  I replaced the following items (battery, starter, solenoid, and negative battery cable) and cleaned all contacts and grounds.  The dash gauges seem to peg to the right as if the system was discharging when the ignition key was turned.   I have strong headlights, and the Jeep had started several times over the past two months.  The Jeep has been sitting most of the winter (waiting for my son to come home on leave), but I have been running it now and again to keep the battery charged.  When I went out a couple of days ago it was dead.  Any suggestions?

Answer:   Here are some things to check.  Load test the battery.  Check that the battery cable connections are clean.  Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position.  These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter and starter solenoid.  One of these may be faulty.  Additionally, here is the procedure we use to isolate a battery drain.  Remove negative battery cable from the battery.  Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative battery post the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected.  The test light will glow or “light” if there is a drain.  If the “light or glow” is faint, that is probably normal draw for the clock or computer.  If the “light or glow” is bright, then there is a large drain.  That should be corrected.  Now start removing and replacing the fuses one by one until the light goes out; that one will be the circuit with the drain.  Remember to hold in the button in the door jam for the interior lights.

Question: 1989 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2.8L pfi mileage: 139,400.  This engine will run for thirty seconds and shut off. Then there is no spark.  I removed the dies coil pack and ignition module and had them tested, with a good result.  The ECM was changed last year for the same problem, but it shows no codes.  Fuel pump pressure is around 40 psi, even when engine shuts off.   Any ideas where to look from here?

Answer: You may be having another computer module failing.  Check with an Ohmmeter the resistance of the ground connections to the computer.  Also, check the resistance of each of the fuel injectors.  If the resistance of a fuel injector is high, it will pull too much current through the computer and burn it out.

Question: 1989 Ford Aerostar  mileage: 88,000.   I have not been able to start the engine following heavy rain.  The van has been running fine and starts easily but following heavy rain, the past two weekends will not start at all (it turns over and occasionally fires) until weather clears and is dry for a day or so.  I don't see an obvious leak into the engine compartment but it does seem damp.  I am assuming this is an electrical problem but I am not sure what to do.

Answer: The moisture may be shorting out the electrical system to the spark plugs.  Replace the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and plug wires.

Question: 1989 Ford Mustang mileage: 89,000.   My son's car failed to start after school on Friday even though it had run fine that morning.  We jump-started it thinking he had left something on.  We took battery to get charged and they suggested new battery so we bought one and put it in.  The car immediately cranked, but after setting overnight without driving the car for more than a few minutes, it was dead again this morning.  Nothing has been left on to run the battery down, and I thought it might be the alternator, but since we didn't run it, yesterday I didn't see how it could have pulled all of the juice out of the battery if it was alternator.  I feel like something is running the battery down, but don't know where to begin to look.  Any ideas?

Answer:   Here is the procedure we use to isolate a battery drain.  Remove negative battery cable from the battery.  Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative battery post the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected.  The test light will glow or “light” if there is a drain.  If the “light or glow” is faint, that is probably normal draw for the clock or computer.  If the “light or glow” is bright, then there is a large drain.  That should be corrected.  Now start removing and replacing the fuses one by one until the light goes out; that one will be the circuit with the drain.  Remember to hold in the button in the door jam for the interior lights.

Question: 1992 Ford Taurus V6 3.8 liter mileage: 128,000.  From time to time after I drive to work and turn the car off, I will loose all power.  The interior lights won't come on, the clock won't come on, the car won't crank, nothing.  After a few minutes, the lights and things will come back on but the car won't crank.  After a couple of hours, the car will crank and run fine the rest of the day.  Then, it will do the same thing on another day.  The battery is good.  The alternator is good.  Any ideas?

Answer: You need to load test the battery when the car will not start.   You probably have an internal short in the battery.

Question: 1990 Mercury Sable 3.0 mileage: 96,000.  Why don't I have any spark when I turn my engine over?  My engine died on me, as if somebody just pulled the plug, when the car was still running.

Answer: Here are some things to have checked: 1. Check to see if the timing belt/chain has failed, 2. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 3. Check for fuel pressure, 4. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error codes.  The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.

Answer:   You have done a very thorough job of trouble-shooting your dilemma.  We had a roundtable discussion of your problem and concluded that a defective ignition module that occasionally misfires is the guilty component.

Question: 1986 Chevy Camaro 2.8 mileage: 48,000.  I had backed out and then put it into drive when it died. The engine stopped just as if I turned it of myself.  The headlights, dome lights, and lighter still work but my dash gauges, stereo, and electric trunk does not work.  I cannot find the problem.

Answer:   Check the fuseable links by the starter.

Question: 1993 Honda Delsol 1.6l mileage: 125,000.  This morning as I went to work my car just died at the stop sign.  The car was warm; I just got off the highway.  About two blocks later it died.  It would crank but not start.  Strong cranking.   The car was tuned up recently.  I do all the work myself.  After looking for loose wire etc., got back in car and it started then stalled, then cranked several times.  It started and got me to work about two blocks later.  Then at lunch, it started several times then did not any more.  I had the ICM changed 8 months ago with almost the same symptom.  Probably is the ICM but I do not know how to test this.  A mechanic repaired it last time and it cost 300.00, too much for a simple fix.  Can you tell me how to trouble shoot the ignition control module (ICM)?

 Answer:  Two things to check when your car is stalled, you can test the ignition control module by checking for spark at the spark plugs.  If no spark, there is an excellent chance that the control module has failed.  If you have spark, you may want to check the fuel pump, which may be the culprit.

Question: 1995 Ford Escort 1.9 liter _mileage: 120,000.  While driving down the freeway, seatbelt-sliding release in door would make single clicking sound, and engine Rpms would start to decrease.  Later, while idling at a stoplight, seat belt device again made a clicking sound, engine Rpms dropped, and car stalled.  Car has not started since.  Engine will turn over, and spark plugs have a spark, but engine will not start.  Any ideas?

Answer:   Your no start problem is probably cause by a faulty ECC relay.  It controls the power to the computer and probably needs to be replaced.

Question: 1996 Volkswagen golf 2.0 mileage: 60,000.  Ok, here goes. I have a 1996 VW Golf 2.0 auto.  When I put the keys in the ignition switch, the LCD on the TAC gauges shows the car in drive, but it is in park.  Then when I try to start the car, nothing happens.  No clicking sound, nothing.  There is a slight clicking sound in the center console though.  I checked the battery, and it has a strong charge.  It has been very cold here for the last week.  I did move the gear lever back and forth, and it did start once, and I let the car run for about 15 minutes to warm up.  When I tried to start it again, nothing.  And the gearshift trick didn’t work.  Help!

Answer:   From what you have described, the gear shirt selector switch needs to be replaced.

Question: 1993 Suzuki Sidekick 4 cyl mileage: 64,000.  Yes I have a question about the way my car starts.  About a year ago, my car started not starting when I turn the key.  I took it to the shop and they said it was the neutral safety switch.  They replaced the switch and it was fine for a while.  Then about a month ago, the problem started again.  I took it back to the shop and they said it was the overdrive button on my gear shifter.  They said the button was sticking and that I shouldn’t use it.  My question is this, have you heard of this problem before?  In addition, do you know anything I can do for the problem?   By the way, I can start the car by turning the key and hitting the copper bolt on the starter.

Answer:   Here are some things to check.  Load test the battery.  Check that the battery cable connections are clean.  Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position.  These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid.  One of these may be faulty.

Question: 1975 P6 Rover 2200 mileage: 67,000.  If you were to try to start the car the sound would suggest a flat battery. All of a sudden, it would spring to life.  The starter motor has been professionally overhauled and there is an extra earth lead between engine and body.  Once started it goes 15 miles (fast dual carriageway) and then 8 hours later we do it all again.   Any advice would be appreciated.

Answer:   Here are some things to check.  Load test the battery.  Check that the battery cable connections are clean.  Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position.  These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid.  One of these may be faulty.

MORE: Engine wont start questions

Repair Topics / Car Wont Start-1 / Car Wont Start-2 / Car Wont Start-3 / Car Wont Start-4 / Car Wont Start-5 / Car Wont Start-6 / Car Wont Start-7 / Car Wont Start-8 / Car Wont Start-9 / Car Wont Start-10 / Car Wont Start-11 / Car Wont Start-12 / Car Wont Start-13