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MORE: Engine wont start questions
Car Engine Will Not Start Questions
Question: 1987 Honda Accord LXI mileage: 170,000. Okay, where do I start
first? Well, the car wasn't running to great and wouldn't run at all if you had
less than a half of a tank of gas. My husband dropped the gas tank, cleaned
it out and replaced the fuel pump. It ran great for a couple of drives and
then suddenly wouldn't start again. We then replaced the relay. Again,
it ran great for a few rides and then wouldn't start again. We didn't hear
the pump kick on when we were starting it so thought maybe we got a bad pump.
We replaced that and the car ran great this time for a couple of days. Now
it won't start again! We really don't have the money to take it in to Honda
do you have any advise? THANK YOU!Answer: You must determine if
your engine will not start because of lack of fuel or lack of spark. If fuel
is the problem, check the fuel pump, pressure etc. If no spark, check the
coil, distributor, 12 volts to the coil, etc.
Question: 1992 Ford Explorer V6 mileage: 214,000. I recently started
the car and shut it off. A few seconds later when attempting to start the
car all I got was a click, click sound coming from the relay (mounted next to the
battery). I have replaced the relay, starter, and battery and still only get
the click click. I tested the starter(s) by jumping from the new battery
directly to the relay and still nothing happens. I am now going to replace
both battery cables. Anything else I am missing and or should do? Thank
you
Answer: Your entire starting system may by fine and the engine may be
frozen. If the engine cannot be rotated by hand, it is frozen and it will
have to be taken apart to find out why.
Question: 1982 Jeep CJ-7 6 cyl mileage: 65,000. I can't get my Jeep
to start. I turn the ignition key, and I get nothing, except a click somewhere in
the engine compartment. I replaced the following items (battery, starter,
solenoid, and negative battery cable) and cleaned all contacts and grounds.
The dash gauges seem to peg to the right as if the system was discharging when the
ignition key was turned. I have strong headlights, and the Jeep had
started several times over the past two months. The Jeep has been sitting
most of the winter (waiting for my son to come home on leave), but I have been running
it now and again to keep the battery charged. When I went out a couple of
days ago it was dead. Any suggestions?
Answer: Here are some things to check. Load test the
battery. Check that the battery cable connections are clean. Check for
12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position. These things
should be checked first then the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter
and starter solenoid. One of these may be faulty. Additionally, here
is the procedure we use to isolate a battery drain. Remove negative battery
cable from the battery. Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative
battery post the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected.
The test light will glow or “light” if there is a drain. If the “light or
glow” is faint, that is probably normal draw for the clock or computer. If
the “light or glow” is bright, then there is a large drain. That should be
corrected. Now start removing and replacing the fuses one by one until the
light goes out; that one will be the circuit with the drain. Remember to hold
in the button in the door jam for the interior lights.
Question: 1989 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2.8L pfi mileage: 139,400. This
engine will run for thirty seconds and shut off. Then there is no spark. I
removed the dies coil pack and ignition module and had them tested, with a good
result. The ECM was changed last year for the same problem, but it shows no
codes. Fuel pump pressure is around 40 psi, even when engine shuts off.
Any ideas where to look from here?
Answer: You may be having another computer module failing. Check
with an Ohmmeter the resistance of the ground connections to the computer.
Also, check the resistance of each of the fuel injectors. If the resistance
of a fuel injector is high, it will pull too much current through the computer and
burn it out.
Question: 1989 Ford Aerostar mileage: 88,000. I have
not been able to start the engine following heavy rain. The van has been running
fine and starts easily but following heavy rain, the past two weekends will not
start at all (it turns over and occasionally fires) until weather clears and is
dry for a day or so. I don't see an obvious leak into the engine compartment
but it does seem damp. I am assuming this is an electrical problem but I am
not sure what to do.
Answer: The moisture may be shorting out the electrical system to the
spark plugs. Replace the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and plug wires.
Question: 1989 Ford Mustang mileage: 89,000. My son's car
failed to start after school on Friday even though it had run fine that morning.
We jump-started it thinking he had left something on. We took battery to get
charged and they suggested new battery so we bought one and put it in. The
car immediately cranked, but after setting overnight without driving the car for
more than a few minutes, it was dead again this morning. Nothing has been
left on to run the battery down, and I thought it might be the alternator, but since
we didn't run it, yesterday I didn't see how it could have pulled all of the juice
out of the battery if it was alternator. I feel like something is running
the battery down, but don't know where to begin to look. Any ideas?
Answer: Here is the procedure we use to isolate a battery
drain. Remove negative battery cable from the battery. Using a 12-volt
test light, hook one end to the negative battery post the other end to the negative
battery cable you just disconnected. The test light will glow or “light” if
there is a drain. If the “light or glow” is faint, that is probably normal
draw for the clock or computer. If the “light or glow” is bright, then there
is a large drain. That should be corrected. Now start removing and replacing
the fuses one by one until the light goes out; that one will be the circuit with
the drain. Remember to hold in the button in the door jam for the interior
lights.
Question: 1992 Ford Taurus V6 3.8 liter mileage: 128,000. From time
to time after I drive to work and turn the car off, I will loose all power.
The interior lights won't come on, the clock won't come on, the car won't crank,
nothing. After a few minutes, the lights and things will come back on but
the car won't crank. After a couple of hours, the car will crank and run fine
the rest of the day. Then, it will do the same thing on another day.
The battery is good. The alternator is good. Any ideas?
Answer: You need to load test the battery when the car will not start.
You probably have an internal short in the battery.
Question: 1990 Mercury Sable 3.0 mileage: 96,000. Why don't I have
any spark when I turn my engine over? My engine died on me, as if somebody
just pulled the plug, when the car was still running.
Answer: Here are some things to have checked: 1. Check to see if the timing
belt/chain has failed, 2. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 3. Check for
fuel pressure, 4. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error codes. The information
should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.
Question: 1990 Olds, 88 3.8L mileage: 39,000 original. Please help,
I have a VERY intermittent (over 2 years) no, start problem. Some things I
have done, checked & CHANGED have been: crankshaft sensor, spark plugs & plug wires,
new battery and ECM. WHEN it does not start, I have good fuel pressure (gauge
connected) injector harness checked (Noid tester) and checked for spark at all cylinders.
Runs fine for months on end then next day no start. Tries to fire but kicks,
bucks & backfires. Leave it for a few days starts like a new car. Note
the low original miles. Any ideas?
Answer: You have done a very thorough job of trouble-shooting
your dilemma. We had a roundtable discussion of your problem and concluded
that a defective ignition module that occasionally misfires is the guilty component.
Question: 1986 Chevy Camaro 2.8 mileage: 48,000. I had backed out
and then put it into drive when it died. The engine stopped just as if I turned
it of myself. The headlights, dome lights, and lighter still work but my dash
gauges, stereo, and electric trunk does not work. I cannot find the problem.
Answer: Check the fuseable links by the starter.
Question: 1993 Honda Delsol 1.6l mileage: 125,000. This morning
as I went to work my car just died at the stop sign. The car was warm; I just
got off the highway. About two blocks later it died. It would crank
but not start. Strong cranking. The car was tuned up recently.
I do all the work myself. After looking for loose wire etc., got back in car
and it started then stalled, then cranked several times. It started and got
me to work about two blocks later. Then at lunch, it started several times
then did not any more. I had the ICM changed 8 months ago with almost the
same symptom. Probably is the ICM but I do not know how to test this.
A mechanic repaired it last time and it cost 300.00, too much for a simple fix.
Can you tell me how to trouble shoot the ignition control module (ICM)?
Answer: Two things to check when your car is stalled, you
can test the ignition control module by checking for spark at the spark plugs.
If no spark, there is an excellent chance that the control module has failed.
If you have spark, you may want to check the fuel pump, which may be the culprit.
Question: 1995 Ford Escort 1.9 liter _mileage: 120,000. While driving
down the freeway, seatbelt-sliding release in door would make single clicking sound,
and engine Rpms would start to decrease. Later, while idling at a stoplight,
seat belt device again made a clicking sound, engine Rpms dropped, and car stalled.
Car has not started since. Engine will turn over, and spark plugs have a spark,
but engine will not start. Any ideas?
Answer: Your no start problem is probably cause by a faulty
ECC relay. It controls the power to the computer and probably needs to be
replaced.
Question: 1996 Volkswagen golf 2.0 mileage: 60,000. Ok, here goes.
I have a 1996 VW Golf 2.0 auto. When I put the keys in the ignition switch,
the LCD on the TAC gauges shows the car in drive, but it is in park. Then
when I try to start the car, nothing happens. No clicking sound, nothing.
There is a slight clicking sound in the center console though. I checked the
battery, and it has a strong charge. It has been very cold here for the last
week. I did move the gear lever back and forth, and it did start once, and
I let the car run for about 15 minutes to warm up. When I tried to start it
again, nothing. And the gearshift trick didn’t work. Help!
Answer: From what you have described, the gear shirt selector
switch needs to be replaced.
Question: 1993 Suzuki Sidekick 4 cyl mileage: 64,000. Yes I have
a question about the way my car starts. About a year ago, my car started not
starting when I turn the key. I took it to the shop and they said it was the
neutral safety switch. They replaced the switch and it was fine for a while.
Then about a month ago, the problem started again. I took it back to the shop
and they said it was the overdrive button on my gear shifter. They said the
button was sticking and that I shouldn’t use it. My question is this, have
you heard of this problem before? In addition, do you know anything I can
do for the problem? By the way, I can start the car by turning the key
and hitting the copper bolt on the starter.
Answer: Here are some things to check. Load test the
battery. Check that the battery cable connections are clean. Check for
12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position. These things
should be checked first then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid.
One of these may be faulty.
Question: 1975 P6 Rover 2200 mileage: 67,000. If you were to try
to start the car the sound would suggest a flat battery. All of a sudden, it would
spring to life. The starter motor has been professionally overhauled and there
is an extra earth lead between engine and body. Once started it goes 15 miles
(fast dual carriageway) and then 8 hours later we do it all again. Any
advice would be appreciated.
Answer: Here are some things to check. Load test the
battery. Check that the battery cable connections are clean. Check for
12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position. These things
should be checked first then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid.
One of these may be faulty.
MORE: Engine wont start questions
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