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Car and Truck Engine Will Not Start
Questions This
category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question:
1997 Ford Taurus mileage: 55,000.
I have an intermittent problem where the car
will not start (I am getting no spark on any
of the plugs) the car cranks fine and I have
>10 volts power to the ignition coil while
cranking. The coil is controlled by
the power train control module that fires
the coil by turning each of (3) grounds to
the coil on and off. I checked with a
multi-meter and read a frequency to the coil
during a no start occurrence. Ford
replaced the PAT module and I replaced the
ignition coil and battery. The coil
ground is ok and the battery voltage is
good. The problem is that the car
starts working in about 1 hour so I have had
bad luck getting it to fail while at a
service shop. I towed it once to ford
while it was not starting and their computer
could not find the problem. The car
works perfectly once it starts. Help!
Any suggestions?
Answer: Two things come to mind that
may be causing your problem. First is a faulty
mass air-flow sensor and second a faulty cam or crank
angle sensor.
Question:
1993 Olds Bravada 4.3l v6 mileage: 93,000. About
20% of the time, the car will not start properly.
It may start but very rough for 3-5 seconds, or not
start at all until cranked over for about 10-15 seconds,
when it finally catches. Once running it is fine.
I had it to the dealers, where they did a complete tune
up, plugs, wire, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter,
and several sensors, which did not help at all.
Then they replaced the fuel pump, and dampener, which
did not help. It makes no difference whether the
car is parked uphill, downhill, or level, or how much
gas in tank? It makes no difference whether
the car is warm or cold. Sometimes it starts fine,
and other times it doesn't. Any helpful
suggestions. The dealer’s methods of replacing
parts is getting expensive, with no results.
Thanks
Answer:
Check for leaky fuel injectors. Check fuel pump
pressure, if possible, when it will not start.
Also, check for spark when it will not start. If
the computer has not been scanned, do so now.
Question:
1986 Chevy Astro AWD 6 cylinder mileage: 77,000.
Recently our '96 Astro has stopped running, at times.
We have had it into Firestone twice, the local Chevy
dealer (for four days) and a local repair shop twice.
Both Firestone and the repair shop recognize a problem,
and had recommended that we take it to the dealer.
The dealer says the car is O.K. and the only thing wrong
was a dead battery. The battery wasn't dead prior
to taking it in; I think the dealer ran it down.
The Astro will not start on some occasions after sitting
over night, but then starts fine the next day.
When it doesn't start, it cranks over fine, and you can
hear the fuel pump running (buzz). When driving it
you can feel the engine missing, some times so bad the
car stalls, and at other times just a little. When
it misses or doesn't start the Service Engines Soon
light comes on. 1st - Firestone replaced the
fuel filter. They put it on their machine
and said it had a "Cold Starting" issue and to take it
to the dealer. 2nd - Dealer said they put it on
the machine and it was OK. They replaced the
battery. 3rd - Local shop found high voltage (25
to 35) going to the plugs so they replaced the spark
plugs, spark plug wires and PCV valve. The second
time they said they suspected the fuel injector poppets
sticking and put fuel injector cleaner in the gasoline.
They checked the fuel pressure and said it was OK.
Right now, the car sits in the driveway, and has to have
it towed (for the fourth time this month) to someone to
repair.
Answer:
Try replacing the fuel pump and all six fuel injectors.
It has been our experience that your problem is not
unique.
Question:
1987 Nissan Hard body 4x4 3.0 mileage: 244,000. I
am a mechanic and this has 4 others baffled. I can
go out in the morning and start the truck and it runs
great. When I go into gear and drive it dies.
I loses spark and dumps fuel at the same time. Now
you have to wait about 2 hrs to start it again. It
has a new distributor, coil, and cap/rotor. I did
the tap test on the computer. If you crank it for
a while it will finally spark. So can you
help...thanks.
Answer:
Scan the computer for trouble codes. Check for
faulty sensors. With an Ohmmeter, check the ground
connections to the computer. You may also have a
bad computer.
Question:
1990 Ford Taurus 3.0L mileage: 83,000. My car will
not start, the engines did not crank at all. My
suspicion is the ignition coil, but the tests that I
follow using the Haynes guide seems to indicate that the
coil is still within specifications. I also
suspect maybe the ignition module is bad, but the book
told me only authorized repair could fix the ignition
module. If you have any suggestion, I will be very
grateful. Thank you.
Answer:
Here are some things to have checked: 1. Check to
see if the timing belt/chain has failed, 2. Check for
ignition spark at spark plugs, 3. Check for fuel
pressure, 4. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error
codes. The information should pinpoint the
malfunctioning components.
Question:
1990 Honda 2.2 mileage: 140,000. No start
condition. No spark. Took it to school and
replaced, coil, igniter (control module), plugs, wires,
new Honda cap and rotor. Computer was giving
code 15. Played around with a few wires (did not
do much), and code went away and I tried to start and it
worked fine! Drove around for a day, then it died.
I had it starting, and then it would die. Now it
will not start at all (still now spark) now I guess
either my computer is bad or I need a new distributor
(with new pickup coil and sensors inside the distributor
available only with new distributor) I am still getting
a code 15 (which I guess means ignition output signal).
Now I replaced fuel filter and it was tough and I bent a
fuel line and I think I have some fuel getting clogged
new the Filter because it was a cheap aftermarket and it
did not fit totally right, but I have yet to install my
new Honda filter. Can a fuel problem trigger a no
spark? I have no spark available from the spring
thing on the ignition coil either. What do you
think, ECU, distributor, or fuel problem triggering no
spark? Thanks, as this problem is really getting
to me!
Answer:
The no start problem that you referred to in your
question will probably be fixed if you replace the
distributor that has the new pick-up coil and sensor.
Question:
1990 Pontiac Bonneville 3,8 _mileage: 113,000.
Starting problem when ambient temperature below 0
degrees C. Error code 43 (ESC). This module
replaced. OK for couple of days. Then again,
code 43 (ESC). What should be done next?
Answer:
Code 43 is knock sensor – replacing it should fix your
problem.
Question:
1995 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl mileage: 105,000. I
hadn't had any recent problem with my car starting. I
had a new started put on it last summer. A
few days ago, I went out to start it and it didn't
cooperate. The battery is charged and it sounds
like it is trying to turn over. The night before
the temperature outside dropped below 0, and I only had
1/4 of a tank of gas. I think my gas line is
frozen. So how do I unfreeze it? I tried
"Heet" in the gas tank, but it didn't help. Any
ideas?
Answer:
If your gasoline line is frozen, using a small hand-held
hair dryer to warm the gas line should fix your problem.
Question:
1989 Isuzu trooper 2.8 mileage: 128,000.
No start: replaced injectors, relays, 0� sensor, map sensor, fuel pressure
checked and is ok, fuel filter changed. It cranks and cranks and will not
start. It will start with starting fluid and then runs like new.
Help!
Answer:
Check for an electrical pulse at injectors while
cranking. A weak crank-angle sensor could
also be the cause your problem.
Question:
1989 Pontiac Grand Am mileage: 88,000. The
car does turn over, but does not fire. Could this
be the modular or maybe something else? Please let
me know as soon as possible.
Answer:
Here are some things to have checked: 1.
Check to see if the timing belt/chain has failed,
2. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs,
3. Check for fuel pressure.
Question: 1989 Probe 4 cyl
non-turbo mileage: 180,000. Engine rotates but
doesn't start; I've got spark at all plugs and the plugs
have been replaced. I have gas flow past the filter and
the timing belt is in good shape with no missing teeth.
The air filter is okay. I'm not sure what the
codes are for the Probe or how to clean the injectors.
I also replaced the distributor cap and rotor just for
fun.
Answer: Three things are
needed for an engine to run: compression, proper amount
of fuel and spark at the right time. Try starting
with a compression check and fuel pressure check.
Question:
1996 Nissan 200sx GA16DE mileage: 30,000. My wife's
car decided not to start this AM. We've never had
any mechanical problems before. The engine is
turning over ok, and it seems like it wants to catch,
but nothing. I've let the car sit just in case the
engine was flooded. Went back and tried about 2
hours later, but the same. Turns over, and wants
to catch, but nothing. I don't want to keep trying
in case the battery dies. Any suggestions?
Answer: First check for fuel pressure.
The pump may have failed. If okay, check for spark
at the spark plugs. Next, scan PCM (computer) for
fault or error codes.
Question:
1986 Isuzu pup 2.3L mileage: 199,000. After sitting
in the driveway overnight my car will start just fine.
It will then run for about 20 minutes then it will stop
dead. It will not start for about 2 hours, but
after that, it will start fine. It seems to stop
as soon as the engine gets up to normal temperature.
So, I suspect some type of heat sensor. Please
help!
Answer:
When the engine will not start, check for spark at the
spark plugs. The ignition module or pick-up coil
may be faulty.
Question:
1995 Ford Taurus 3.5 6 cyl mileage: 110,000.
My car will not start, the engine cranks but will not
turn over. First, this was an intermittent
problem. With the key in the ignition, I noticed
that if I pressed the door lock switch, the doors did
not lock/unlock and it sounded as though the window
motor was running. After 10-15 minutes, the door
lock switch would respond properly and the car would
start normally. Now, as soon as the door is open
the sound begins even without the key in the ignition.
Answer:
You have a very strange problem. Check wiring for
damage or loose connections. Also, check the main
power wires. Possibly, you have a bad ignition
switch. Just very hard to tell from here.
Question:
1998 Dodge Caravan 3.8 liter mileage:
24,000. Had trouble getting van
started today. Had it jumped and it drove
fine, but the speedometer or tachometer was
not working. When I turned the engine
off it would not restart. Battery is
in good shape. Is this my alternator,
voltage regulator or something more costly?
Answer:
Have battery load tested. Check alternator output
and check for voltage drain with the key off.
Question:
1966 Ford Mustang 200 mileage: 77,000. My car will
start right back up after I shut it off, but when it
sets overnight, I have to dump gas in the carburetor to
get it started, is it my carburetor sticking or the fuel
pump? I just bought it and it runs great otherwise
what do you think the problem might be.
Answer: Check the choke to see that it
is operating properly. Also, check fuel pump after
the car sets overnight. If the valves in the fuel
pump are leaking, it may be causing your hard starting
problem.
Question:
1996 Pontiac Sunfire mileage: 36,000. When I
put the key in the ignition it will not turn. The
key is not broken and will go in and out freely. A
friend said that my car may have an anti-theft device
that locks the ignition if someone tries to put the
wrong key in it (my mother borrowed the car), is that a
possibility? If it is, how do I get it unlocked?
If it isn't, what else could be the problem?
Answer: Try putting the key in the
ignition and turn the key while turning or rocking the
steering wheel left and right. The steering wheel
lock sometimes binds the ignition switch. 
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