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Car Engine Will Not Start Questions
Question: 1978 Volkswagen Rabbit. mileage: 164,000 I recently
ran out of gas on a hill. I put gas in and it still would not start. Had car
towed to home, tried on level ground. Did not start. In other cars if
you run out of gas, you can prime the carburetor and it will start. My problem
is this has no carburetor. It is fuel injected. Do you know where the
fuel filter is located so I can try replacing that? Or do you have any suggestions?
I need to get to work on Monday. Thank you in advance if you have a reply.
Answer: Try turning the key off and on a few times with out cranking
the engine. This should cycle the fuel pump and get fuel up to the engine.
Hopefully this will get you to work.
Question: 1990 Chevrolet Cavalier 2.2 mileage: 124,000. I recently
replaced my map sensor and EGR valve because it was running real rough.
The car performed much better after that but was still rough on startup. It
would start, but for the first four or five minutes, it ran rough, but soon ran
normal. Well today, it is 3 degrees Fahrenheit and the car will not start.
It sounds like it wants to, but still will not start. I've tried using some
starter fluid (I think it's ether or the like), car sputters, but will not start,
eventually killing the battery. Could it be a frozen fuel line? I have
about 5/8 tank of gas, but have not added deicer to the fuel tank in about a month.
Any suggestions on how to unfreeze the line or do I have to wait until it gets warmer.
Also is this the problem. Any help would be welcome. Thank you
Answer: Your stalling problem may be caused by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem.
Question: 1991 Ford Escort GT 1.8L mileage: 120,000. While traveling
down the road and without any warning, my car lost power and died. The
car is in general good repair, although I was due for a tune-up and oil change.
After recovering my car, I tried to turn it over with no luck. Almost seemed
like no compression. I pulled the distributor cap and tried starting it again
to see if the timing belt was broke. The rotor turned. I pulled
the oil filler cap off of the valve cover and tried starting again and this time
could see the cam turn, so I ruled out a broken timing belt. There was no
loud noise/explosion when the car died and no oil in the coolant and vice versa
so I ruled out head/head gasket problems. I jumped the fuel pump via the Data
Link Connector (DLC) and it started. Just for back-up, I pulled the air induction,
shot ether in the intake, and tried to start. Still no luck. Having
had similar experiences with other Fords, I deduced that it must be the Ignition
Control Module. I went ahead and replaced this item (at a hefty price I might
add) and tried to start. You guessed it, nothing. I checked for spark
via the first plug wire and nothing, so I then checked for spark directly from the
coil, nothing. I am beginning to think that it is the coil. However,
before I try another expensive shot in the dark remedy, I was curious what you thought.
In addition, can I purchase a portable unit to scan the car via the DLC? If
so where? (Also, I subsequently replaced the cap and rotor during all
this testing.)
Answer: The EEC relay that powers the computer is probably faulty.
Replacing it should cure your problem. Your can purchase a portable
scanning unit from your local Snap-On tool representative. Be forewarned –
it is not cheap!
Question: 1990 Geo Metro 1.0 mileage: 139,000. Will not start when
cold. Did complete tune-up, changed coolant sensor, no codes when checked, cleaned
fuel injectors and throttle body, checked fuel pressure. Sometimes will start
but only once in a great while. Seems like it floods itself out. Does
not idle up when cold or when headlights are on when it does happen to start
Answer: Your hard start problems may be caused by a faulty fuel
pressure regulator.
Question: 1990 Oldsmobile Cierra 3300 mileage: 102,000. The ignition
key wore out such that the ignition tumbler would not turn off. To shut the vehicle
off, I pulled the ignition and ECM fuses. I then disconnected the battery.
I purchased a new ignition tumbler and replaced it in the column. I grounded
the positive side of the battery to clear the ECM memory. Reconnected both
battery terminals and tried to start the car. The engine would crank but not
turn over; I removed one plug to check for spark, which was not present. I
checked for error codes and only got code 12, which means no RPM. Before this,
I never had a problem starting the car and suspect that I may have damaged the ECM.
How can I verify this and where is the module located in my car?
Answer: The correct way to clear the ECM on your model car is to
disconnect the negative battery cable and after 30 seconds, re-attach. They
procedure you used may have damaged the ECM. This can be verified by replacing
the ECM with a known good unit. The ECM is located behind the glove box –
passenger side. Also check for 12-volts to the ECM.
Question: 1979 Ford F-150 351 Windsor mileage: 65,000. Hi Bob and
Ken, I have a '79 F-150 pickup. Recently I put my key in the ignition to start
the engine and had a major battery explosion. I have replaced the battery
and starter and battery cables but I am still unable to connect the positive cable
without frying the battery. The alternator, voltage regulator and solenoid
are good therefore is it possible the problem is in the starter relay? Thanks.
Answer: Yes, there is a very good chance that the starter
relay has shorted out and causing your problem.
Question: 1994 Mitsubishi pickup mileage: 70,000. I
was changing a tire and the truck fell off the jack stand. The jack stand
remained upright but when I lifted the truck up the stand had bent a swing arm on
the transmission that operated the gearshift. I straightened the arm but now
the truck will not start. There is power to all systems but not the engine.
Answer: Check the neutral safety switch, it may have gotten
out of adjustment due to the bent shift linkage.
Question: 1994 Nissan Sentra 1.7 L, 4-cyl mileage: 42,000. My car
is not starting. The first time I tried was on yesterday morning, around 9
am--it was very cold (about 20 degrees Fahrenheit), so I chalked it up to a cold
morning. Today is warmer, (about 45+ with sun) and it still will not start.
When I try the ignition, it will only make sounds like the engine is trying to catch,
and the faster I pump gas into it, the faster the sounds come, but there is no regular
"running engine sound". When I let go of the keys, there is only silence.
Answer: Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem.
Question: 1986 Chevy Silverado 305 mileage: 150,000. Recently did
tune up everything was fine for a couple of days. Driving along engine quit.
Replaced rotor, plugs, filters, set timing, during tune up. Engine now turns
over fine but does not appear to be firing. Checked out what I had done
and seems to be fine. Suspect coil maybe, any help would be great.
Answer: Check for 12 volts to the distributor. If there
is 12 volts, the ignition module may be faulty.
Question: 1983 GMC Sierra 350 mileage 175,000 The motor will turn
over but will not fire. I have checked the plugs for spark, but there was
no spark. What do I check next? What would I check after that?
Answer: Check to see if the distributor is turning over.
Check for 12 volts to the coil.
Question: 1993 Chevy crew cab 4x4 454 mileage: 58,800. When I turn
the key to start my truck sometimes it starts and sometimes it takes up to 8 times
of turning the key. I have replaced the starter, ignition switch, neutral safety
switch, the key switch and the solenoid (twice). When it does not start, the
solenoid does not click. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for your
time.
Answer: Here are some things to check. Load test the
battery. Check that the battery cable connections are clean. Check for
12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position. These things
should be checked first then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid.
One of these may be faulty. We realize that some of these things you have
already tested, however, it would be a good idea to double-check them again.
Also, be sure the amp capacity of your battery is sufficient for the size of your
engine.
Question: 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 3.4 mileage: 180,000.
Car is an International Series. Car will not start, replaced plugs, checked fuel
pump, all basics! Compression test reveals low compression 0 to 70 psi in
all six cylinders. Do not understand and need to know possible cause!
There is spark, it is firing but will not catch. Any help you can offer would
be greatly appreciated. I am at a loss!
Answer: Check the timing chain, it may have failed.
Question: 1987 Chevy Celebrity 2.8/tpi/dis mileage: new/motor. I
just installed a new motor; took car for a test drive. Ran excellent.
When I got back I shut off the motor, now it will not start. So I started
to check for the problem: 1. Car seems to have run out of gas -filled tank -no start,
2. Fuel pressure low -replaced fuel filter -pressure is 40 lbs -no start,
3. Checked injectors - have pulse -no start, 4. Checked for spark
at plugs - good blue flame - no start. Could running out of fuel have pick
some dirt off the bottom of the tank and clogged the fuel injectors? The check
engine light came on - checked the ECM for trouble codes - no bad codes came up.
Code 12 came up it means no reference pulses to ECM. I hope you can help me
thank you Rick
Answer: Check the compression. Since you have fuel and
spark, it would appear the compression is the missing link.
Question: 1990 Dodge Ram Pickup 360 mileage: 88,000. Truck stalled
and would not restart. I get no spark from the coil wire. The computer
fault code was 11, which means no pickup signal from the distributor. Any
ideas before I dive in?
Answer: The crank angle sensor may have failed. Replacing
it should fix your problem.
Question: 1988 Honda Accord mileage: 132,000. Recently
I was driving at approx 45 mph and the engine died. Would not turn over once
car came to a stop. I have already checked the following: Spark Plugs, Battery,
Belts, etc. Can you suggest any help?
Answer: Here are some things to have checked: 1. Check to
see if the timing belt/chain has failed, 2. Check for ignition spark
at spark plugs, 3. Check for fuel pressure.
Question: 1992 Toyota Camry v6 mileage: 74,000. My car hesitates
to start when it is wet outdoors. I thought that my starter was going out,
but I had the car checked at the dealer and they could not find anything wrong.
I have a new battery. On the day that I took it to the dealer it was dry outdoors.
Could the moisture have something to do with my car not starting? Please let
me know what you think.
Answer: Yes, moisture can affect your car’s starting.
Moisture will cause old spark plug wires and/or distributor cap to short out.
Try replacing them to fix your no start problem.
Question: 1990 Dodge Ram Pickup 360 mileage: 88,000. Truck stalled
and would not restart. I get no spark from the coil wire. The computer
fault code was 11, which means no pickup signal from the distributor. Any
ideas before I dive in?
Answer: The crank angle sensor may have failed. Replacing
it should fix your problem.
Question: 1990 Mazda 323 2dr hatchback 1600 mileage: 125,000. I
recently bought the car and it started and ran fine. Then I washed out the
engine compartment with a hose. Now the car will not start. No spark.
The distributor cap and wires are OK. There is voltage at the ignition coil
and igniter. The engine diagnostic code says 2 flashes - my shop manual says
this means "Distributor No signal". What can I do?
Answer: Replace the distributor.
MORE: Engine wont start questions
Repair Topics /
Car Wont Start-1
/ Car Wont Start-2
/ Car Wont Start-3
/ Car Wont Start-4
/ Car Wont Start-5
/ Car Wont Start-6
/ Car Wont Start-7
/ Car Wont Start-8
/ Car Wont Start-9
/ Car Wont Start-10
/ Car Wont Start-11
/ Car Wont Start-12
/ Car Wont Start-13
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