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Car and Truck Engine Will Not Start
Questions This
category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question:
1978 Volkswagen Rabbit. mileage:
164,000 I recently ran out of gas on a hill.
I put gas in and it still would not start.
Had car towed to home, tried on level
ground. Did not start. In other
cars if you run out of gas, you can prime
the carburetor and it will start. My
problem is this has no carburetor. It
is fuel injected. Do you know where
the fuel filter is located so I can try
replacing that? Or do you have any
suggestions? I need to get to work on
Monday. Thank you in advance if you
have a reply.
Answer:
Try turning the key off and on a few times with out
cranking the engine. This should cycle the fuel
pump and get fuel up to the engine. Hopefully this
will get you to work.
Question:
1990 Chevrolet Cavalier 2.2 mileage:
124,000. I recently replaced my map
sensor and EGR valve because it was running
real rough. The car performed
much better after that but was still rough
on startup. It would start, but for
the first four or five minutes, it ran
rough, but soon ran normal. Well
today, it is 3 degrees Fahrenheit and the
car will not start. It sounds like it
wants to, but still will not start.
I've tried using some starter fluid (I think
it's ether or the like), car sputters, but
will not start, eventually killing the
battery. Could it be a frozen fuel
line? I have about 5/8 tank of gas,
but have not added deicer to the fuel tank
in about a month. Any suggestions on
how to unfreeze the line or do I have to
wait until it gets warmer. Also is
this the problem. Any help would be
welcome. Thank you
Answer:
Your stalling problem may be caused by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your
problem.
Question:
1991 Ford Escort GT 1.8L mileage: 120,000. While
traveling down the road and without any warning, my car
lost power and died. The car is in general
good repair, although I was due for a tune-up and oil
change. After recovering my car, I tried to turn
it over with no luck. Almost seemed like no
compression. I pulled the distributor cap and
tried starting it again to see if the timing belt was
broke. The rotor turned. I pulled the
oil filler cap off of the valve cover and tried starting
again and this time could see the cam turn, so I ruled
out a broken timing belt. There was no loud
noise/explosion when the car died and no oil in the
coolant and vice versa so I ruled out head/head gasket
problems. I jumped the fuel pump via the Data Link
Connector (DLC) and it started. Just for back-up,
I pulled the air induction, shot ether in the intake,
and tried to start. Still no luck.
Having had similar experiences with other Fords, I
deduced that it must be the Ignition Control Module.
I went ahead and replaced this item (at a hefty price I
might add) and tried to start. You guessed it,
nothing. I checked for spark via the first plug
wire and nothing, so I then checked for spark directly
from the coil, nothing. I am beginning to think
that it is the coil. However, before I try another
expensive shot in the dark remedy, I was curious what
you thought. In addition, can I purchase a
portable unit to scan the car via the DLC? If so
where? (Also, I subsequently replaced the
cap and rotor during all this testing.)
Answer:
The EEC relay that powers the computer is probably
faulty. Replacing it should cure your
problem. Your can purchase a portable
scanning unit from your local Snap-On tool
representative. Be forewarned – it is not cheap!
Question:
1990 Geo Metro 1.0 mileage: 139,000. Will not
start when cold. Did complete tune-up, changed coolant
sensor, no codes when checked, cleaned fuel injectors
and throttle body, checked fuel pressure.
Sometimes will start but only once in a great while.
Seems like it floods itself out. Does not idle up
when cold or when headlights are on when it does happen
to start
Answer:
Your hard start problems may be caused by a faulty fuel
pressure regulator.
Question:
1990 Oldsmobile Cierra 3300 mileage: 102,000. The
ignition key wore out such that the ignition tumbler
would not turn off. To shut the vehicle off, I pulled
the ignition and ECM fuses. I then disconnected
the battery. I purchased a new ignition tumbler and
replaced it in the column. I grounded the positive
side of the battery to clear the ECM memory.
Reconnected both battery terminals and tried to start
the car. The engine would crank but not turn over;
I removed one plug to check for spark, which was not
present. I checked for error codes and only got
code 12, which means no RPM. Before this, I never
had a problem starting the car and suspect that I may
have damaged the ECM. How can I verify this and
where is the module located in my car?
Answer:
The correct way to clear the ECM on your model car is
to disconnect the negative battery cable and after 30
seconds, re-attach. They procedure you used may
have damaged the ECM. This can be verified by
replacing the ECM with a known good unit. The ECM
is located behind the glove box – passenger side.
Also check for 12-volts to the ECM.
Question:
1979 Ford F-150 351 Windsor mileage: 65,000. Hi
Bob and Ken, I have a '79 F-150 pickup. Recently I
put my key in the ignition to start the engine and had a
major battery explosion. I have replaced the
battery and starter and battery cables but I am still
unable to connect the positive cable without frying the
battery. The alternator, voltage regulator and
solenoid are good therefore is it possible the problem
is in the starter relay? Thanks.
Answer:
Yes, there is a very good chance that the starter relay
has shorted out and causing your problem.
Question:
1994 Mitsubishi pickup mileage: 70,000.
I was changing a tire and the truck fell off the jack
stand. The jack stand remained upright but when I
lifted the truck up the stand had bent a swing arm on
the transmission that operated the gearshift. I
straightened the arm but now the truck will not start.
There is power to all systems but not the engine.
Answer:
Check the neutral safety switch, it may have gotten out
of adjustment due to the bent shift linkage.
Question:
1994 Nissan Sentra 1.7 L, 4-cyl mileage: 42,000. My
car is not starting. The first time I tried was on
yesterday morning, around 9 am--it was very cold (about
20 degrees Fahrenheit), so I chalked it up to a cold
morning. Today is warmer, (about 45+ with sun) and
it still will not start. When I try the ignition,
it will only make sounds like the engine is trying to
catch, and the faster I pump gas into it, the faster the
sounds come, but there is no regular "running engine
sound". When I let go of the keys, there is only
silence.
Answer:
Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your
problem.
Question:
1986 Chevy Silverado 305 mileage: 150,000.
Recently did tune up everything was fine for a couple of
days. Driving along engine quit. Replaced
rotor, plugs, filters, set timing, during tune up.
Engine now turns over fine but does not appear to be
firing. Checked out what I had done and
seems to be fine. Suspect coil maybe, any help
would be great.
Answer:
Check for 12 volts to the distributor. If there is
12 volts, the ignition module may be faulty.
Question:
1983 GMC Sierra 350 mileage 175,000 The motor will
turn over but will not fire. I have checked the
plugs for spark, but there was no spark. What do I
check next? What would I check after that?
Answer:
Check to see if the distributor is turning over.
Check for 12 volts to the coil.
Question:
1993 Chevy crew cab 4x4 454 mileage: 58,800. When
I turn the key to start my truck sometimes it starts and
sometimes it takes up to 8 times of turning the key. I
have replaced the starter, ignition switch, neutral
safety switch, the key switch and the solenoid (twice).
When it does not start, the solenoid does not click.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for your
time.
Answer: Here are some things to
check. Load test the battery. Check that the
battery cable connections are clean. Check for 12
volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start
position. These things should be checked first
then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid.
One of these may be faulty. We realize that some
of these things you have already tested, however, it
would be a good idea to double-check them again.
Also, be sure the amp capacity of your battery is
sufficient for the size of your engine.
Question:
1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 3.4 mileage: 180,000.
Car is an International Series. Car will not start,
replaced plugs, checked fuel pump, all basics!
Compression test reveals low compression 0 to 70 psi in
all six cylinders. Do not understand and need to
know possible cause! There is spark, it is firing
but will not catch. Any help you can offer would
be greatly appreciated. I am at a loss!
Answer:
Check the timing chain, it may have failed.
Question:
1987 Chevy Celebrity 2.8/tpi/dis mileage: new/motor.
I just installed a new motor; took car for a test drive.
Ran excellent. When I got back I shut off the
motor, now it will not start. So I started to
check for the problem: 1. Car seems to have run out of
gas -filled tank -no start, 2. Fuel
pressure low -replaced fuel filter -pressure is 40 lbs
-no start, 3. Checked injectors - have pulse -no
start, 4. Checked for spark at plugs - good
blue flame - no start. Could running out of fuel
have pick some dirt off the bottom of the tank and
clogged the fuel injectors? The check engine light
came on - checked the ECM for trouble codes - no bad
codes came up. Code 12 came up it means no
reference pulses to ECM. I hope you can help me
thank you Rick
Answer: Check the compression.
Since you have fuel and spark, it would appear the
compression is the missing link.
Question:
1990 Dodge Ram Pickup 360 mileage: 88,000. Truck
stalled and would not restart. I get no spark from
the coil wire. The computer fault code was 11,
which means no pickup signal from the distributor.
Any ideas before I dive in?
Answer:
The crank angle sensor may have failed. Replacing
it should fix your problem.
Question:
1988 Honda Accord mileage: 132,000.
Recently I was driving at approx 45 mph and the engine
died. Would not turn over once car came to a stop.
I have already checked the following: Spark Plugs,
Battery, Belts, etc. Can you suggest any help?
Answer:
Here are some things to have checked: 1.
Check to see if the timing belt/chain has failed,
2. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs,
3. Check for fuel pressure.
Question:
1992 Toyota Camry v6 mileage: 74,000. My car
hesitates to start when it is wet outdoors. I
thought that my starter was going out, but I had the car
checked at the dealer and they could not find anything
wrong. I have a new battery. On the day that
I took it to the dealer it was dry outdoors. Could
the moisture have something to do with my car not
starting? Please let me know what you think.
Answer: Yes, moisture can affect your
car’s starting. Moisture will cause old spark plug
wires and/or distributor cap to short out. Try
replacing them to fix your no start problem.
Question:
1990 Dodge Ram Pickup 360 mileage: 88,000. Truck
stalled and would not restart. I get no spark from
the coil wire. The computer fault code was 11,
which means no pickup signal from the distributor.
Any ideas before I dive in?
Answer:
The crank angle sensor may have failed. Replacing
it should fix your problem.
Question:
1990 Mazda 323 2dr hatchback 1600 mileage: 125,000.
I recently bought the car and it started and ran fine.
Then I washed out the engine compartment with a hose.
Now the car will not start. No spark. The
distributor cap and wires are OK. There is voltage
at the ignition coil and igniter. The engine
diagnostic code says 2 flashes - my shop manual says
this means "Distributor No signal". What can I do?
Answer:
Replace the distributor.

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