Repair Topics / Car Wont Start-1 / Car Wont Start-2 / Car Wont Start-3 / Car Wont Start-4 / Car Wont Start-5 / Car Wont Start-6 / Car Wont Start-7 / Car Wont Start-8 / Car Wont Start-9 / Car Wont Start-10 / Car Wont Start-11 / Car Wont Start-12 / Car Wont Start-13

• Engine cranks but wont start
• How does a starter and solenoid work?
• Why does my engine stall?
• Why does the engine stall after replacing the battery?
• Why is my engine running rough?
• Why won't my engine crank over?
• Why does my engine have low power output?
• How an idle air controller works
• How an engine works
• How to check compression
• How to retrieve trouble codes
• How to test engine vacuum
• How to test fuel delivery system
• Engine cranks excessively
• Engine stalls
• Rapid ticking sounds when engine is cranked
• How to jump start your engine
• How does a neutral safety switch work?
• Why is my car making a grinding noise?

Answer:   Disconnecting the battery will erase the fault codes from the ECM.  However, hooking the battery back up and turning the key on will reset “hard codes.”  This information should pinpoint your malfunctioning component.

Question:   1993 Chevy Astro Extended 4.3L V6 mileage: 79,000.  Recently has developed a "cold start" problem.  Starter turns engine but does not fire until battery is almost dead.  Only a problem when engine has not run for a few hours.  Quite possibly temperature-related, as cold mornings seem to be worst.  Had local shop do complete tune-up, including plugs, wires, and fuel injector cleaner.  No help.  They then replaced (after fuel pressure testing) a very expensive "octopus" component of the fuel injection system.  Still no good.  Shop mechanics not know what to try next.  Any ideas?  Thanks.

Answer:   Your stalling problem may be caused by the fuel pump.   Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem.

Question:   1987 Oldsmobile Delta 88 6/3800 mileage: 159,000.  Car will not start in the cold, and already put in a new temperature-sending unit.  Had the injector’s cleaned, new plugs and new wires, new timing sensor, new alternator, new battery and a new starter.  Still the car will not start in the cold.

Answer:   Check compression, fuel pressure and scan the computer for fault codes.

Question: 1989 Honda CRX 1.6i 16V mileage: 80,000.  I changed the gaskets between the down pipe and manifold and now the car wont start.   I have cleaned the plugs and the engine looked flooded.  When I put the clean plugs back in it nearly started and then flooded again.  Before I changed the gaskets there was a lot of exhaust in the engine compartment - is this the cause.  Thanks a lot for any help!

Answer:  Check for loose or broken ground wires or wiring looms that are disconnected.  In addition, scan the computer for fault codes.

Question: 1990 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8L mileage: 114,000.  I have an error code 41 (camshaft sensor) that we cannot find the cause of.  Only 4 volts are present on one side of the cam sensor (8 on the other side) The wiring is good between the Ignition Module and the Camshaft Sensor.   We have replaced the ECM, Ignition Module, Coil Pack, Crankshaft Sensor, and Cam Sensor.  Same symptoms.  Correct Voltage at Computer.  Bad voltage (4 volts on one side of sensor with it unplugged).  Interestingly, when you pull the connection to the Crankshaft Sensor, then you have the correct voltage to the Cam Sensor (8 volts on both sides to Ground (middle wire to Cam Sensor).  However, replacing the Crank Sensor does not solve problem.  Any suggestions?

Answer:  Your problem is one that generally takes days to identify and repair.  Moreover, from here, it is really difficult to diagnosis your problem, but here is a suggestion of something you might try.  Unplug the wiring loom from the PCM and check the resistance of all the ground wires in that wiring loom.   You may have a bad ground causing your problem.

Question: 1991 Buick LeSabre 3800 mileage: 159,000.  The car has done this about 4 times now. The last time was this morning.  It simply will not start.  It will crank and crank and crank, but never "fire".  It makes a "pooof" sound, but not a loud one.   Letting it sit for a while sometimes helps.   It seems to happen when the temperature drops.  What I've done to start it (and don't ask me why) is to remove the gas cap, then keep cranking it for about 1 minute or more with the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.  Eventually it will start to fire and run.  Then we go for weeks with it happening.  Any help appreciated.

Answer:  Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.  Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem.

Question: 1990 Pontiac/sunbird 2.01 mileage: 105,000.  Car starts when it is raining but will not start when it is misty and nasty

Answer:  The problem sounds like the spark plug wires and cap and rotor are breaking down due to the excess moisture.  Replacing them should fix your problem.

Question: 1989 Rover mileage: 95,000.  Intermittent (though increasing) problem of very slow turning of engine.  Sounds like failing battery but both battery and ignition ok.  Any ideas?  

Answer:  What you need to do first is load test the battery.  If it tests okay, around 300 amps, then do a starter amp draw test; this should be no more than 200 amps.  If the starter draws more than 200 amps, it should be replaced.

Question: 1991 Maza RX7 mileage: 140,000: Car will not start when you turn key in ignition, there is nothing (sound). The battery is new and the alternator is also new, both replaced in August. ALL power items are working i.e. windows, radio/antenna, convertible, etc.

Answer: Check for 12 volts to the starter solenoid with the key in the start position. Check that the engine is not frozen; can it be turned over by hand (wrench on crank pulley)? If the above items are okay, the starter may be at fault.

Question: 1995 Dodge Dakota sport 5.2 V8 mileage: 68,100. I just drove my truck through a deep puddle and it stalled out and won't start. What do I need to do to ensure that my engine will be all right from the water?

Answer: Check the engine oil for water. Change the oil if necessary. If the engine will not crank over as if it is frozen, remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over by hand to remove the water from the cylinders. Dry out the ignition system – spark plugs, coil, etc. On your engine are several sensors that feed information to the computer. Remove the connectors and dry them out. If the computer got wet, try drying it but be prepared to replace it. Almost forgot, check the gas tank for water.

Question: 1979 Jaguar V12 mileage 125,000. Car will die and not restart until it sits for an hour or two. What could be the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Answer: The ignition module is failing and may need to be replaced.

Question: 1996 VW Jetta 4cyl 5spd mileage: 46,000. Our car doesn't start. We tried boosting the battery but it is fine. When we turn the key nothing happens, no engine trying to turn over or anything. We have been told that it is probably the neutral safety switch. Where is it located, how can I find out if it needs replacing and how do I replace it? HELP!!

Answer: The neutral safety switch is in the console between the front seats. With a 12-volt test light, test for voltage on both terminals when the ignition key is in the start position. Voltage comes from the ignition switch through the neutral switch to the starter. Caution – the reverse light circuit is in the same switch. To replace, disconnect the battery remove mounting screws and wiring.

Question: 1998 Dodge Dakota V-6_mileage: 50,000. I try to start my truck and all I hear is the engine trying to turn over, but never actually starting. The battery is fine and full power.

Answer: Here are some things to have checked: 1. Check to see if the timing belt has failed, 2. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 3. Check for fuel pressure, 4. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.

Question: 1991 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6, mileage: 125,000. My truck will not start; all I get is an audible click when I try to crank it. I've already replaced the starter and battery, checked that I have voltage to all points including from battery to starter, across the solenoid, and all my grounds are in good condition. I have even tried to bypass the solenoid by jumping across it with a screwdriver and even that only gets the same "click". The motor is not seized as I was able to turn the crank with a wrench. What else could it be? I am going nuts and have already had to rent a car for the weekend. PLEASE HELP!?

Answer: You have done a thorough job of troubleshooting your starting problem. We would suggest first, that you load test the battery. Does the voltage drop past 10 volts with a 200-amp load? Next, when the solenoid is energized is there 12 volts going to the starter? Have the starter "bench" tested. Test the ground wires while trying to start the car. This can be done with a voltmeter by checking for any voltage between battery negative post and engine block. Good Luck!

Question: 1990 Pontiac Sunbird SE, 83,000 miles. My car seemed to run well enough the last time I had used it. I did not drive it for about 4-5 days. It was difficult to start the car after that. It would crank a lot when I turned the ignition but would not turn over. In order to get the engine to turn over, I had to keep the accelerator pressed to the floor (similar to what would be done with a flooded engine). When driving, the acceleration was very poor and there was a soft, metallic rattle. Whenever I stopped the car (such as a stop light), the engine would stop and I would have to go through the same startup routine as already described. I parked the car for several hours and when I tried to start it once again, the engine did not turn over despite my best efforts. It would crank but nothing more.

Answer: The first thing to do is to have the PCM computer scanned. If any fault code or codes are present, it may tell you what your problem is. Next, check for vacuum leaks (hoses that have failed or fallen off) and check ignition system.

Question: 1986 Chevy S-10. My 1986 Chevy S-10 sometimes does not want to start, when it does like today, it sputters. Today is a rainy day and I am not sure that has anything to do with it, but it seems to. What could it be?

Answer:   The first thing to check would be ignition system. Moisture on old spark plug wires or distributor cap and rotor will short them out. Next would be the carburetor choke.

Question: 1995 Ford Contour, 2.5, 50,100 miles. My car has been in and out for different problems but the current problem has stomped me. I was driving the car the whole day then, all of a sudden, I parked my car and got back in to start and I accidentally overstated. I just turned it off and tried to restart but it would not. Like a dummy, I replaced the battery but all the engine would do is click continuously. Now think it could be the starter but I do not know. I just replaced the head and gasket and the plugs were replaced. It is one thing after another...Help.

Answer: From what you describe, the problem sounds like a bad starter. Have it tested before you replace it.

Question: 1983 Mercury Marquis, 150,000 miles. Ignition Problem? Car will cut off for no apparent reason. We installed a new ignition coil. We loose our 12 Volts to our coil every now and then. We loose our ground occasionally. We think the problem is either the ignition switch or the main computer. It does this either hot or cold going down the road or sitting still. Thanks for your help.

Answer:   It is likely you have an ignition module going bad. Our second guess would be the ignition switch.

Question: Thank you for taking my question. I own a 1994 Mercury Villager, 3.0 Nissan engine, runs good. Does not stall or hesitate, but it starts so darn hard, especially when the car is cold. I tuned it and timed it. No, I don't push on the gas when cranking it. It cranks fine but takes longer than normal to start. When it does start, it runs flawlessly. Is there anything I can do or is this a problem that requires diagnosis?

Answer: A test to perform on your car would be a fuel pressure test. Perform the test with the engine cold to duplicate the hard start condition. If the fuel filter has not been replaced lately, you need to replace it.

Question: I have a 1989 Chevy pick-up, 5.7-liter v-8, 4-wheel drive. The battery seems good (lights work good). It will not start; starter does not turn and I cannot hear the solenoid plunger activate. There is just a slight click when the key is turned to start. Do I replace the starter - the solenoid or look somewhere else? Thanks.

Answer: Your problem may be a weak battery or loose cables. Have the battery load tested. If it tests okay, the problem is probably the starter/solenoid.

Question: I have a 1992 Chevy Cavalier that has a bad ignition switch. My questions are: 1. Do I have to remove the steering wheel in order to replace the ignition switch? 2. Do I need to have a steering wheel puller, in order to remove the steering wheel? If I do have to remove the steering wheel, is that my biggest task? Thank you for your time and consideration.

Answer: You do not have to remove the steering wheel. Disconnect the battery. Remove the housing behind the steering wheel. It separates top and bottom. Remove the ignition switch from the back of the ignition lock.

Question: My son has a Jeep truck, I guess a 1980 something. It is a standard transmission. Sometimes it will not start. He'll turn the key and the starter sounds like its working and the engine is turning over but it doesn't spark. I question whether the engine is really turning over. He can push start it, popping the clutch while turning the ignition key on. It starts. By push starting it isn't the only thing he is doing is physically forcing the engine to turn over? Is it possible that the starter shaft is not extending into the engine and turning over the engine; that the starter is turning but is not engaged with the engine and that would be a solenoid problem? I admit I do not know much about it, but he cannot seem to get it fixed. Thanks for listening.

Answer: The first test to try is to look at the radiator fan while the engine is trying to start. (Stay clear of the fan).  If the fan turns, the starter is okay. If not, replace the starter and solenoid. If the starter test is okay, check for 12 volts at the positive terminal of the coil while cranking the engine. If no voltage, you may have a bad ignition switch.

Question: Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. I have a 1993 Hyundai coupe with a turbo 1.5 l motor. It is very hard to start. The only way to start it is to start it and not give it any gas for a minute or so. It takes-6 tries before you can get it to stay running. It has a service engine light on the dash and disconnecting the battery cable has not eliminated the light. Once started it runs fair but it cuts out as if it is running lean. the problem seems to be getting worse. We do not have a local dealer. Any input you can give me will be appreciated.

Answer:   The service engine light indicates a problem in the computer controlled engine management system. An independent auto service center can scan your computer for faults or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning component.

MORE: Engine wont start questions

Repair Topics / Car Wont Start-1 / Car Wont Start-2 / Car Wont Start-3 / Car Wont Start-4 / Car Wont Start-5 / Car Wont Start-6 / Car Wont Start-7 / Car Wont Start-8 / Car Wont Start-9 / Car Wont Start-10 / Car Wont Start-11 / Car Wont Start-12 / Car Wont Start-13