Answer: When you unplug the camshaft position sensor it starts because the computer goes to default or limp mode which allows the car to start. Most likely the magnetic pick-up on the camshaft is loose or has dislodged causing your no start problem.

Question: 1994 Dodge Intrepid 3.5 mileage 81,000. Sometimes the car won't start, even though it cranks fine. Eventually it fires up, for some reason. I shut it off and try to make it happen again but it won't. Sometimes it simply shuts off at speed; it can be at 50 mph or at 30. It doesn't seem to discriminate. My wife says she has seen the cruise light come on sometimes when it stalls. It usually starts right back up, but sometimes you have to fight with it. My wife says if you really crank on the key, it seems to start the first try. Do I need to replace the ignition switch? How do I check the crank and cam sensor? I have a sensor tester and have checked the TPS, map and idle control valve. The dealer has been no help at all; they claim there's nothing wrong with this car. There are no error codes when it dies. I need to fix this before it dies 100 miles from home and decides not to restart. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Answer: Finding the reason why a car occasionally dies or won't start is a matter of trial and error. When the car won't start, check for spark and check for fuel. There are several things that can fail that will not store an error code in the computer. The ignition switch that you mentioned is a possibility. Another is the fuel pump. A faulty wire connection can also be the culprit just to name a few.

Question: 1991 Ford Escort 1.9 mileage: 62,000. Broke timing belt and replaced it. Car will not start. Checked belt to make sure that it was not off by a notch. Car gets very low compression (20+/-). Before I spend $175 to $200 on a new head, do you have any suggestions on why it gets such low compression? All I've heard from people who have worked on these Escorts is that after replacing the timing belt they are usually fine. I was doing 65+/- when the belt went.

Answer: Assuming the timing belt is on correctly, then unfortunately, you probably have some bent valves.

Question: 1994 Toyota Corolla 4 cylinder mileages: 10,900. I have never had any problems with my car in the 2 years that I have owned it. Then 3 weeks ago driving down the road the engine dies and will not start again. I had it towed to a shop. They thought that it was the injector module. The distributor was replaced along with the timing belt. Computer was already scanned for codes and injector pulse code came up. Noid light indicates injector pulse. Basically, got spark, fuel, and compression. No run/wet plugs. Why? Any ideas?

Answer: First, verify that the timing belt was installed properly. If okay, you may have one or more leaking fuel injectors which are causing your no start problem.

Question: 1987 Pontiac Bonneville  3.8 L, V-6 type 1 DIS non turbo: Cold start every time, idle sometimes lopes and/or erratic, but performance is beautiful, good power, good pick up, will run all day long, no over heating. Fuel efficiency good, but turn engine off and a complete NO SPARK situation to all cylinders if try to restart. Once engine sets for a period. Starts right back up and performs as stated above. Most obvious conclusion, thermal problem. Which part of the (Brick), top (Coils) or bottom (Module) has been most commonly diagnosed for this problem, in the vehicle described above? Remember, I am not asking what's causing the problem with my car, but to the best of your knowledge, what has been the most common diagnosis and repair of this problem, with vehicle described above? One connection where wire from module plugs into coil pack, connection was green and corroded, cleaned, it helped, but didn't cure. Coil module, affectionately known as "the brick." Its top section contains three ignition coils, each with two the bottom section of the coil module contains the electronic circuitry, neatly potted in bulletproof epoxy.

Answer: From what you described, you problem could be the coil module, the cam angle sensor or the crank angle sensor.

Question: 1992 Chevrolet S10 Blazer. I have a 92 s-10 Blazer and the last couple of days it has been real slow turning over. I thought it may be the starter, but last night the starter would just click and wouldn't start at all. When I got up this morning the battery was dead, so I put a charger on it and it still wouldn't start. Then I jumped it with another car and it started. The battery is only 4 months old so I don't think that is the problem. A friend told me it could be a fuseable link but I'm not sure where under the hood to check the link. What would it be connected to?

Answer: Load test the battery and also test the charging circuit. The fact that you can jump the dead battery and start it would indicate that the starter and the fuseable links are all okay.

Question: 1991 Ford Topaz mileage: 130,000.  Hi, really hope you can offer a suggestion...the car has a mind of it's own - sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn’t and there is no rhyme or reason to it.  We’ve had it to a garage that we've dealt with for some time and have had everything checked out to no avail.  It looked as though there was short in the running lights so we've had the modem removed.   We even had a new battery installed.  This week it decided not to start again so we boosted it again and it was fine for a couple of days.  Now it needs another boost today...what do you think we're overlooking.  Nothing is being left on that could drain the battery but every couple of days the battery appears 'dead' and the car requires a boost to go.  Help?!?!?

Answer:  Here is the procedure we use to isolate a battery drain.  Remove negative battery cable from the battery.  Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative battery post the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected.  The test light will glow or “light” if there is a drain.  If the “light or glow” is faint, that is probably normal draw for the clock or computer.  If the “light or glow” is bright, then there is a large drain.  That should be corrected.  Now start removing and replacing the fuses one by one until the light goes out; that one will be the circuit with the drain.  Remember to hold in the button in the door jam for the interior lights.

Question: 1989 Chevy Celebrity 2.8 E.F.I. 114,000.  Car was running great.  Tried to start next a.m. - no start. Have fuel.  Checked for spark - none.  Was advised to replace "Crank Position Sensor" Did that.  Still no start.  Is there anything I can check out with a test light and digital multimeter?  I was a Chrysler mechanic but don't know Chevys at all. Oh, also checked E.C.M. fuse - ok.

Answer:  Here are some things to have checked: 1. Check to see if the timing belt/chain has failed, 2. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 3. Check for fuel pressure, 4. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error codes.  The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.

Question: 1990 Mustang 2.3 mileage: 129,000.  Car won't even crank but is getting charge why could that be? Is it the computer possibly? Or, maybe even the solenoid?

Answer:  The computer will not stop a car from cranking.  Here are some things to check.  Load test the battery.  Check that the battery cable connections are clean.  Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position.  These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid.  One of these may be faulty.

Question: 1990 Dodge Daytona 3.0 V6 mileage: 82,145.  Drove car to work every thing fine.  After work car would not start, all it does is try to start.  The engine runs for 1-2 seconds and dies the car showed no signs of problems, check engine light never came on to warn of any problems.

Answer:  Test the fuel pump.  It may have failed.

Question: 88 Pontiac Grand Prix 2.8 liter mileage: 155,000.  Hi, I have the above car.  I just purchased it from a close friend who says he never had any problems with it.  After I drive the car around for a while, it won’t start after I turn the engine off. After an hour or so, it will start with no problem.  The engine does crank and all lights and electrical work, but it just wont turn over.  Whenever I take it to a mechanic, the car does fine!  I’m very frustrated and tired of getting stuck. When I try to start it' it almost for a split second tries to turn over then it just cranks.  I think the computer is telling the car not to start for some reason.  The car has 25,000 miles on a rebuilt transmission and engine.

Answer:  Intermittent problems are very hard to diagnose.  Your no start problem may be your fuel pump.  Try to check it for pressure during the not start problem.  Also, check for spark at the spark plugs.

Question: 1986 Volvo 740 turbo fuel inj. 4cyl. mileage: 86,000.  I am having problems starting my Volvo.  I’ve changed the spark plugs, the fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel filter. I’m trying to figure out if there is a cold start valve or something else that does the same thing.

Answer: Check the thermo time switch it may be faulty.  It controls the cold start injector.

Answer:  It may be the starter and or starter solenoid.  However, before replacing them, be sure the battery is not the problem.  Have it load tested or when it will not start try “jumping” it from another car.  We are sorry, but due to the large volume of questions we receive, we do not have time to print, scan and email diagrams.  A Mitchell or Chilton auto repair manual will have diagrams showing what you need.  Click here to find out more

Answer: Perform a compression check on the engine. If all four cylinders are low (below 100) the timing belt has probably failed.

Question: 1989 Pontiac Firefly 3 cylinder. My car will not start. It' making the rolling noise but will not quite roll over. I checked the timing belt it's not that. The spark plugs are new and so is the battery. I live in the Maritimes so it is starting to get cold here. Could that have something to do with it? Please help! I know it is probably something simple. Any advice?

Answer: Check the starter. The starter drive may have failed.

Question: 1990 Chevy Corsica 2.2 mileage: 125,000. I read one of your ignition questions and it applies to me----However, it is not plain to me exactly how to separate the housing behind the steering wheel to replace the ignition switch. EXACTLY, how do I remove the switch from this car? I am somewhat knowledgeable about cars and I think I can do it if you would explain how.

Answer: The ignition switch on your vehicle is down on the column – drop the column to remove. The switch is separate from the lock assembly and controlled by linkage.

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