Repair Topics / Car Wont Start-1 / Car Wont Start-2 / Car Wont Start-3 / Car Wont Start-4 / Car Wont Start-5 / Car Wont Start-6 / Car Wont Start-7 / Car Wont Start-8 / Car Wont Start-9 / Car Wont Start-10 / Car Wont Start-11 / Car Wont Start-12 / Car Wont Start-13

Car or Truck Engine Will Not Start Questions

Answer: Scan the computer for fault codes...we suspect that you have a faulty coolant sensor. Also check the rubber air intake boot for cracks.

Question: 1999 Plymouth Breeze 2.0L mileage: 60,000. First of all my car was running good until I decided to "fix" it. I had to do something. My radiator was leaking badly due to some minor left-front end collision damage. I couldn't afford a mechanic, so I decided to do it myself. Since I've worked on several cars over the years, I thought this would be easy. Little did I know how much fun was in store for me. I removed the radiator without too much difficulty. I had to disconnect the air conditioning stuff and automatic transmission lines also. I went to the junkyard and obtained an exact replacement that is known to be good. I replaced the radiator. Once again, I didn't have too much difficulty with that. Everything connected with no problems. I replenished it with water but did not refill the Freon in the air conditioner. I did not have any ATF+3 transmission fluid to refill that but I figured the engine would at least start at this point so I tried it. Not even a hit. I cranked and cranked. So, I sat there pondering for a second. I went back and double and triple checked my connections and could find no problem. At this point, I suspect I have tripped some sort of automatic shut down electronics. So, I get in my reliable F150 and I get a service manual from the parts store. After studying for about 30 minutes, I believe the ASD relay is stuck or bad. I get my multimeter and check the relay's coil resistance to 75 ohms which is good. I checked the n.o. and n.c. contacts both fine. Next, I check the voltage supply to the relay at the relay connector block. I had no voltage. Hmmm. Pull the other three relays and check their voltage. They all have the 12V I was looking for. Ahha! No voltage a.k.a. fuse!!! Yep, sure enough I check the fuses and fuse number 5 under the hood is blown. It is supposed to be for the ASD and the computer a.k.a. power train control module. Well, I go to the parts store again and return with 20A fuses. I replace it. Fuse blows! ARRRGGGGGHHHHH!!! Insert a few explicatives here! I get out my meter again. I measure 12V on one side of the fuse and 0V on the other. I don't think this is good. Suspecting a bad computer but not knowing why since the engine ran fine before my radiator change, I disconnect the battery and remove the computer. I disconnected the two cables from the unit and replaced the fuse with another new one and connected the battery. The fuse did not blow. Well at this point, I'm not sure whether the computer is truly bad or one of the circuits connected to it. So, here are the real questions. Do you think the computer is faulty and how do I prove it? Or, is it possible that some sort of trouble code is stored in the computer which would not allow the engine to start? Why would the fuse blow with the computer in-circuit but not when the computer is out of circuit. Wouldn't the relay prevent the car from starting? Isn't that what the electronics should do in a properly working car? Is there a transmission fluid level sensor and could that have caused my problem? I'm sorry this is such a long email but I am truly stumped. This car is not going to beat me. I will find the answer one way or another even if I have to ask! I'm going to work on the car again this weekend. Any help you guys can provide will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Matt

Answer: Based on what you have told us, it appears that during the radiator replacement, a wiring loam was damaged or improperly reconnected. It is also possible that a ground wire was omitted which would cause the fuse to blown resulting in a no start condition.

Question: 1999 Chevrolet, Malibu 191M 3.1L SFI mileage: 55,300. I put gas into the car and it won't start unless I press the gas pedal to give it gas. It's like the car is flooded after you put gas into. The gas mileage is not very good either I know it is a 6 cylinder. I have only been getting about 20 mpg. Do you have any idea what is causing this. I keep asking and no one seems to have a clue.

Answer: You may have a faulty fuel pressure regulator or a fuel injector that is leaking fuel.

Question: 1983 VW Passat Audi 5 cyl mileage: 150,000. I have acquired a VW Passat, which has the Audi 5 cylinder engine fitted (2.2 Litre?). It has Bosch fuel injection. The car can be started, but runs for 5 seconds then dies. This can be done repeatedly again & again. There is fuel in the tank and she runs fine just for that 5 secs. Taking off the cap makes no difference. The fuel pump is not stopping until just after the engine stops. I am told that the previous owner "fiddled" with the injection adjustments. Any ideas? How would you bleed the system (if required)?

Answer: You car is equipped with two fuel pumps. The fuel pump in the tank is probably not working and needs to be replaced.

Question: 93 Ford Taurus mileage: 74,000. Frequently (As in 3 times so far this week) this car will not start. All the electrical works, but no crank at all. New battery, 2 new starters, new alternator, 1-year-old air conditioning system. I have had it towed 4 times recently - every time it starts right up at the service station. Last time they kept it for a week trying to get it to not start. Yesterday I couldn't get it to start. I turned the key to on position, let it sit a minute, then turned to start and it fired up. Got to my destination, and it did this again. My fear is that whatever is happening will get worse, and I am deluding myself that the key has anything to do with it. The Ford garage said I should not have to let the key sit in the on position to start. I am terrified of getting stuck some place. What could be causing this! Ford garage can't figure it out - problem is that every time it has been towed it starts! I just know I am going to get stuck out of town and be in a real pickle.

Answer: Intermittent electrical problems are difficult to trace. We would suggest first checking the ignition switch and next the neutral safety switch (assuming your car is an automatic).

Question: 1989 Ford 250 XLT Lariat 460 mileage: 160,000. I was checking for a power steering fluid leak, had my wife turning the wheel back and forth found the leak and fixed the problem. My problem is my wife left the key on and I didn't find out till the morning. At that time, my battery was gone. I charged up the battery tried to start the truck with no luck. It turned over but would not run. I ended up jumping the fuel pump relay and it started right up. I checked the codes and received all 11 (a.o.k). I went for a little drive maybe 5 miles turned the truck off till the next morning. Went to start it and nothing again. Jumped the relay again and it started. But this time it was running real rough & if you gave it gas it would die plus the check engine light stayed on. I ended up taking it to the ford dealer to look at it. The tech said the computer has no data output. The MAP censer needs replacing and the catalytic converter was plugged. My question to you is there any way I can test the computer for data output with out a lot of expense.

Answer: The ECM may be faulty. Try scanning it for fault codes; you will need a scan tool for this procedure and it is not cheap. Is it possible that the battery was jumped backwards when you were trying to get it started? If it was, you probably "cooked" the ECM.

Question: 1989 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl 4.0l mileage: 130,000. Well after reviewing previous questions, it seems my problem may be the fuel pressure regulator, but I want to see if what I was reading seems correct. My Jeep first started out by not wanting to stay running after initially starting it. It would start then die. You can smell gas, but not see any. We found that if you rocked the vehicle back in forth and cranked it over, it would stay running. Now it still does that with a new twist. After getting it started, I'll be driving down the road for about 5 - 8 minutes and the vehicle will just die. Then I have to get out, rock it back and forth again, and try to start it. It doesn't seem to matter if it is cold or hot outside. Wet or dry. Any ideas? Forever grateful if you can help me on this one. Not really sure where to start.

Answer: You are close to the right track but check the fuel pressure during the no start condition as you may have a faulty fuel pump. You also could have a vehicle speed sensor problem.

Question: 1996 GMC Safari Van 4.3 V6 mileage: 85,000. Within about six days, our van has rapidly developed a starting problem when the engine is cold. The temperature has dropped in the last few days making the problem worse. If the engine has run for only a few minutes, you can shut it off and it will restart right away. My first thought was the fuel pump because it has the loudest fuel pump I have ever heard and now I can barely hear it. However, I can drive down the road, open to full throttle and the van takes off like it always has. This morning the only way I got it to start (it was 15 degrees F) was to switch the key to ON for a few seconds and shut it to OFF, repeat 2-3 times then turn to START. Then it would start, but not quite as well as it normally has done. Should, but at least it was running.

Answer: Do a fuel pressure test when you are having hard starting problems. You will probably find a faulty fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. If the fuel system checks okay, scan the computer for fault codes.

Question: 1990 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0 mileage: 140,000. My car last week died on the highway and I got it towed home. The first thing I did was get codes from the computer. I got a code 22 which is the TPS. I changed the TPS. The car would still not start. I got a code 34 which is the MAP sensor .I changed that also. Again it would not start. I have checked the plugs, leads, rotor, cap, and coil, all of which are fine. I checked the timing belt and marks several times insuring that the rotor was pointing to the number one cylinder. I have checked for compression, again it is good. I have checked the wiring to insure the sensors are getting the voltage required. I also replaced the ECM which again made no difference .I am getting fuel from the injector but I think it is too much and is causing the engine to flood every time. I replaced the coolant sensor, as I know this can affect fuel delivery when cold. Still it will not start. I disconnected the injector and the engine ran for a brief moment on the fuel in the throttle body. I measured the voltage going to the injector, which was 12 volts. I measured the resistance in the injector, which is 1.7 ohms. I have checked and doubled checked everything and I am truly at my wits end. If you could give me any information on this to point me in the right direction I would be very grateful.

Answer: Sounds like you have attacked the problem pretty well. Check the fuses. Do a "pin" check for power and ground to the ECM. When you replaced the ECM, did you use a new prom? If not, you could have a faulty prom. Check fuel pressure and using a Noid light check the pulse at the injectors. For your information, the injectors will have 12-volts and the computer momentarily grounds them to open the injector.

Answer: The cap and rotor is probably not causing your problem. You must determine if your engine will not start because of lack of fuel or lack of spark. If fuel is the problem, check the fuel pump, pressure etc. If no spark, check the coil, distributor, 12 volts to the coil, etc.

Question: 92 Chevy S10 Blazer 4.3 Vortec mileage: 106k. I have a starting problem. The engine takes an excessive amount of cranking to start. When it does start, I can see a small cloud of brown smoke and a strong smell of gas. Also, the engine has a sluggish pick-up and will idle roughly at a stop. If the car is left to sit 2-3 days, it starts right up with no hesitation. I realize it is probably running rich, what steps do I take to correct this problem. I have replaced: spark plugs, fuel filter(s), and coolant temperature switch to no avail. Olin

Answer: Check the fuel pressure regulator. The diaphragm inside has probably failed.

Question: 1996 Plymouth/Voyager 2.4L mileage: 65,000. Intermittent problem, turn key, dash lights up, starter does nothing. PCM, automatic shutdown relays, and starter have been replaced. PCM does not capture code when this happens. Have used a co-pilot, this does not capture any malfunction codes. The dealer and Plymouth are stumped. Can you help?

Answer: From what you have explained, the starter would have been the first suspect. However, since you have had it replaced, we would next check the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch. If your battery is the original one, take a look at it also as there could be an intermittent short occurring.

Question: 1997 Ford Escort Wagon 4 cyl mileage: 150,000. Operator ran over a large rock with right side tires and engine shut off and wouldn't restart. Engine turns over but won't start.

Answer: Try resetting the inertia fuel shut-off switch located in the cargo area above the right wheelwell.

Question: 1992 Mercury Sable 6 cylinder mileage: 100,000. My car will not start after sitting idle for a while. After I once get it cranked, it will do fine until the next time I do not drive it for a while. This car has a brand new transmission, a new fuel pump (thought this would solve the problem) and two new sensors. I do not want to go through another trial and error and pay out money without getting the car fixed. I will be traveling in about three weeks and I just have to get his problem solved. The car has been put on a computerized board, but no problems are showing up. There has to be a solution.

Answer: If the temperature sensor has not been replaced, it should be. Next check for a leaky fuel injector and check the fuel pressure when the car will not start.

Question: 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0 mileage: 56,000. Starting Problem: Excessive cranking 2-3 seconds before starting, after start rpm drops low, but engine recovers and does not stall, once started - runs fine at all speeds. Does not do it every time, but appears to more frequent now. I expect soon it just won't start.

Answer: Scan the computer for fault codes and with the engine running, read the data stream coming from the sensors to the computer. One of the sensors may be out of range but still functioning.

Question: 1996 GMC Jimmy 4.3 mileage: 84,000. I have recently had problems with starting my 1996 GMC Jimmy. When I turn the ignition key sometimes it will turn over with no trouble and others will make a loud grinding noise and will sometimes hesitate to start. If I give it a little gas, it will help but the grinding noise continues. It sounds like when you leave the key turned for to long and the starter is still trying to start the engine but it is happening before the engine is even running. Once it is started there are no problems at all-knock on wood! This problem just started two days ago and would like to get it resolved before I get stuck somewhere.

Answer: Your problems may be caused by a faulty ignition switch or starter solenoid.

Question: 2000 Hyundai Sonata 4 cyl mileage: 17,000. OK every time I stop to fill up with gas and shut the car off, once I am done pumping and try to start the car it won't start! I have to ride the gas pedal for a little to keep it from stalling out. If I leave the car running while I pump gas it is fine. Just wondering what that could be to it only when I pump gas. It's starting to be a hassle! I bought it brand new and it always done this. I hate taking to the dealer because half time they don't what to FIX or where the part is that they ordered! Already had the radio replaced and it still comes in and out while I drive!

Answer: Check the vapor recovery system for the fuel tank. There must be a valve stuck or hanging up causing raw fuel to be drawn into the engine.

Question: 1990 Chevy 2500 350 TBI mileage: 57,000. Truck ran just fine until I hooked up a 24ft gooseneck trailer to it to pull in a parade. I made it 5 or 6 blocks and when I came to a stoplight, it died. The coil was somewhat hot so I replaced it. This didn't help. I then changed the ECM that came off a buddies wrecked truck. Again no luck. I've checked all the fuses and wiring, everything seems fine. The engine turns over but won't fire. Checked the TBI, I have fuel in tank, but none to the TBI. No fuel and no fire. Can you help me?

Answer: Check for fuel pressure as it sounds like your fuel pump has failed.

Question: 1996 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L 8-cylinder mileage: 60,000. When my vehicle has been sitting cold for 8+ hours, it starts beautifully and immediately. However, if I try to start it 15 minutes to 3 hours after driving for awhile, it has to turn over for a good 4 seconds before starting. I just had a major tune-up, and the dealer "reset the performance memory" to try to fix this, but to no avail. Could it be a fuel pump issue... perhaps some sort of relay that ties the fuel pump to oil pressure that I've heard about?

Answer: First off, it is difficult to diagnose the car without seeing it. What we would do is scan the computer data stream and read the values of all the sensors, particularly the coolant temperature sensor.

Question: 1987 Jaguar XJ6 4.2L mileage: 122,000. I'm having a problem with the fuel system on my jag. Recently when I drive it some place, when I go to leave it won't start, I have spark but it just turns over and won't fire. I swapped the run and start relays and it started once and then when I shut it off the same problem occurred when I tried to restart it. But if I unplug the electrical connections on the fuel pump in the trunk then plug them back in the car will start and run fine until I turn it off. I'm getting kind of tired of taking my trunk apart to get to my fuel pump every time I go someplace. If you can help, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Joshua

Answer: You may have a faulty fuel pump. When the car will not start, check for 12 volts at the fuel pump. If 12 volts are present, your fuel pump is the culprit.

Question: 1998 Ford Explorer 6 cylinder mileage: 40,000. The Explorer would not start. We jumped started the car and the ABS light came on. I am assuming this is referring to the Alternate Battery Source (alternator). The dashboard gauge for the battery is normal and not showing low voltage. Does this sound like the alternator?

Answer: Nice try but ABS stands for antilock brake system. The "ABS" light will "light" when there is a malfunction in the braking system. The fault code is then stored in the computer. The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. Because the ABS light indicates something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood automobile service center sooner rather than later is recommended. Your ABS system may not be functioning.

Question: 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8 mileage: 107,000. Hi Bob and Ken, I have a 1991 Eclipse that I am told by a professional that there is a distributor problem and that the distributor will need to be replaced. The problem is that the car always needs a jump to get the car started and the car will continue to operate until I shut the car off and I have to go thru the same thing again. The engine will crank fine without the jump butt will not start. An automotive tech told me that there was a problem with the distributor not getting enough voltage and that is why it needs a jump. He says that I need to replace the distributor. This sounds kind of weird to me to have to replace an entire distributor for a voltage problem. Could you help set me straight on this matter? David

Answer: Check the voltage at the distributor when the engine is cranking. It should be between 11 and 12 volts.

Repair Topics / Car Wont Start-1 / Car Wont Start-2 / Car Wont Start-3 / Car Wont Start-4 / Car Wont Start-5 / Car Wont Start-6 / Car Wont Start-7 / Car Wont Start-8 / Car Wont Start-9 / Car Wont Start-10 / Car Wont Start-11 / Car Wont Start-12 / Car Wont Start-13

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