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MORE: Engine wont start questions
Car Engine Will Not Start Questions
Question: 1993 Mazda 323f 1.6i 1600 mileage 62,000: My Mazda has developed
a really annoying engine fault. When the engine is cold and running on choke (or
whatever fuel injection engines do) it runs fine. But as the engine warms up and
it comes off choke it coughs and splutters, the engine floods and then it dies.
It then refuses to restart - the engine turns over but makes no attempt start. After
leaving it for 20-30 minutes it will reluctantly start and then once it's up to
temperature it doesn’t miss a beat. Alas I am quite confident of doing a 300 mile
journey without any problems but know that if I just want to pop to the shops round
the corner the 323 will breakdown. My local garage have tried replacing the distributor
cap, rotor arm, HT leads, choke sensor, air flow sensor, coil and ignition sensor
- none of which have resolved the problem. My friendly mechanic is now lost for
ideas and suggested that I ask you friendly folk for help. Please help - I love
my 323 but it’s worthless if I can't fix this problem.
Answer: Scan the computer for fault codes...we suspect that you have a
faulty coolant sensor. Also check the rubber air intake boot for cracks.
Question: 1999 Plymouth Breeze 2.0L mileage: 60,000. First of all my car
was running good until I decided to "fix" it. I had to do something. My radiator
was leaking badly due to some minor left-front end collision damage. I couldn't
afford a mechanic, so I decided to do it myself. Since I've worked on several cars
over the years, I thought this would be easy. Little did I know how much fun was
in store for me. I removed the radiator without too much difficulty. I had to disconnect
the air conditioning stuff and automatic transmission lines also. I went to the
junkyard and obtained an exact replacement that is known to be good. I replaced
the radiator. Once again, I didn't have too much difficulty with that. Everything
connected with no problems. I replenished it with water but did not refill the Freon
in the air conditioner. I did not have any ATF+3 transmission fluid to refill that
but I figured the engine would at least start at this point so I tried it. Not even
a hit. I cranked and cranked. So, I sat there pondering for a second. I went back
and double and triple checked my connections and could find no problem. At this
point, I suspect I have tripped some sort of automatic shut down electronics. So,
I get in my reliable F150 and I get a service manual from the parts store. After
studying for about 30 minutes, I believe the ASD relay is stuck or bad. I get my
multimeter and check the relay's coil resistance to 75 ohms which is good. I checked
the n.o. and n.c. contacts both fine. Next, I check the voltage supply to the relay
at the relay connector block. I had no voltage. Hmmm. Pull the other three relays
and check their voltage. They all have the 12V I was looking for. Ahha! No voltage
a.k.a. fuse!!! Yep, sure enough I check the fuses and fuse number 5 under the hood
is blown. It is supposed to be for the ASD and the computer a.k.a. power train control
module. Well, I go to the parts store again and return with 20A fuses. I replace
it. Fuse blows! ARRRGGGGGHHHHH!!! Insert a few explicatives here! I get out my meter
again. I measure 12V on one side of the fuse and 0V on the other. I don't think
this is good. Suspecting a bad computer but not knowing why since the engine ran
fine before my radiator change, I disconnect the battery and remove the computer.
I disconnected the two cables from the unit and replaced the fuse with another new
one and connected the battery. The fuse did not blow. Well at this point, I'm not
sure whether the computer is truly bad or one of the circuits connected to it. So,
here are the real questions. Do you think the computer is faulty and how do I prove
it? Or, is it possible that some sort of trouble code is stored in the computer
which would not allow the engine to start? Why would the fuse blow with the computer
in-circuit but not when the computer is out of circuit. Wouldn't the relay prevent
the car from starting? Isn't that what the electronics should do in a properly working
car? Is there a transmission fluid level sensor and could that have caused my problem?
I'm sorry this is such a long email but I am truly stumped. This car is not going
to beat me. I will find the answer one way or another even if I have to ask! I'm
going to work on the car again this weekend. Any help you guys can provide will
be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Matt
Answer: Based on what you have told us, it appears that during the radiator
replacement, a wiring loam was damaged or improperly reconnected. It is also possible
that a ground wire was omitted which would cause the fuse to blown resulting in
a no start condition.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet, Malibu 191M 3.1L SFI mileage: 55,300. I put
gas into the car and it won't start unless I press the gas pedal to give it gas.
It's like the car is flooded after you put gas into. The gas mileage is not very
good either I know it is a 6 cylinder. I have only been getting about 20 mpg. Do
you have any idea what is causing this. I keep asking and no one seems to have a
clue.
Answer: You may have a faulty fuel pressure regulator or a fuel injector
that is leaking fuel.
Question: 1983 VW Passat Audi 5 cyl mileage: 150,000. I have acquired
a VW Passat, which has the Audi 5 cylinder engine fitted (2.2 Litre?). It has Bosch
fuel injection. The car can be started, but runs for 5 seconds then dies. This can
be done repeatedly again & again. There is fuel in the tank and she runs fine just
for that 5 secs. Taking off the cap makes no difference. The fuel pump is not stopping
until just after the engine stops. I am told that the previous owner "fiddled" with
the injection adjustments. Any ideas? How would you bleed the system (if required)?
Answer: You car is equipped with two fuel pumps. The fuel pump in the
tank is probably not working and needs to be replaced.
Question: 93 Ford Taurus mileage: 74,000. Frequently (As in 3 times so
far this week) this car will not start. All the electrical works, but no crank at
all. New battery, 2 new starters, new alternator, 1-year-old air conditioning system.
I have had it towed 4 times recently - every time it starts right up at the service
station. Last time they kept it for a week trying to get it to not start. Yesterday
I couldn't get it to start. I turned the key to on position, let it sit a minute,
then turned to start and it fired up. Got to my destination, and it did this again.
My fear is that whatever is happening will get worse, and I am deluding myself that
the key has anything to do with it. The Ford garage said I should not have to let
the key sit in the on position to start. I am terrified of getting stuck some place.
What could be causing this! Ford garage can't figure it out - problem is that every
time it has been towed it starts! I just know I am going to get stuck out of town
and be in a real pickle.
Answer: Intermittent electrical problems are difficult to trace. We would
suggest first checking the ignition switch and next the neutral safety switch (assuming
your car is an automatic).
Question: 1989 Ford 250 XLT Lariat 460 mileage: 160,000. I was checking
for a power steering fluid leak, had my wife turning the wheel back and forth found
the leak and fixed the problem. My problem is my wife left the key on and I didn't
find out till the morning. At that time, my battery was gone. I charged up the battery
tried to start the truck with no luck. It turned over but would not run. I ended
up jumping the fuel pump relay and it started right up. I checked the codes and
received all 11 (a.o.k). I went for a little drive maybe 5 miles turned the truck
off till the next morning. Went to start it and nothing again. Jumped the relay
again and it started. But this time it was running real rough & if you gave it gas
it would die plus the check engine light stayed on. I ended up taking it to the
ford dealer to look at it. The tech said the computer has no data output. The MAP
censer needs replacing and the catalytic converter was plugged. My question to you
is there any way I can test the computer for data output with out a lot of expense.
Answer: The ECM may be faulty. Try scanning it for fault codes; you will
need a scan tool for this procedure and it is not cheap. Is it possible that the
battery was jumped backwards when you were trying to get it started? If it was,
you probably "cooked" the ECM.
Question: 1989 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl 4.0l mileage: 130,000. Well after reviewing
previous questions, it seems my problem may be the fuel pressure regulator, but
I want to see if what I was reading seems correct. My Jeep first started out by
not wanting to stay running after initially starting it. It would start then die.
You can smell gas, but not see any. We found that if you rocked the vehicle back
in forth and cranked it over, it would stay running. Now it still does that with
a new twist. After getting it started, I'll be driving down the road for about 5
- 8 minutes and the vehicle will just die. Then I have to get out, rock it back
and forth again, and try to start it. It doesn't seem to matter if it is cold or
hot outside. Wet or dry. Any ideas? Forever grateful if you can help me on this
one. Not really sure where to start.
Answer: You are close to the right track but check the fuel pressure during
the no start condition as you may have a faulty fuel pump. You also could have a
vehicle speed sensor problem.
Question: 1996 GMC Safari Van 4.3 V6 mileage: 85,000. Within about six
days, our van has rapidly developed a starting problem when the engine is cold.
The temperature has dropped in the last few days making the problem worse. If the
engine has run for only a few minutes, you can shut it off and it will restart right
away. My first thought was the fuel pump because it has the loudest fuel pump I
have ever heard and now I can barely hear it. However, I can drive down the road,
open to full throttle and the van takes off like it always has. This morning the
only way I got it to start (it was 15 degrees F) was to switch the key to ON for
a few seconds and shut it to OFF, repeat 2-3 times then turn to START. Then it would
start, but not quite as well as it normally has done. Should, but at least it was
running.
Answer: Do a fuel pressure test when you are having hard starting problems.
You will probably find a faulty fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. If the fuel
system checks okay, scan the computer for fault codes.
Question: 1990 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0 mileage: 140,000. My car last week
died on the highway and I got it towed home. The first thing I did was get codes
from the computer. I got a code 22 which is the TPS. I changed the TPS. The car
would still not start. I got a code 34 which is the MAP sensor .I changed that also.
Again it would not start. I have checked the plugs, leads, rotor, cap, and coil,
all of which are fine. I checked the timing belt and marks several times insuring
that the rotor was pointing to the number one cylinder. I have checked for compression,
again it is good. I have checked the wiring to insure the sensors are getting the
voltage required. I also replaced the ECM which again made no difference .I am getting
fuel from the injector but I think it is too much and is causing the engine to flood
every time. I replaced the coolant sensor, as I know this can affect fuel delivery
when cold. Still it will not start. I disconnected the injector and the engine ran
for a brief moment on the fuel in the throttle body. I measured the voltage going
to the injector, which was 12 volts. I measured the resistance in the injector,
which is 1.7 ohms. I have checked and doubled checked everything and I am truly
at my wits end. If you could give me any information on this to point me in the
right direction I would be very grateful.
Answer: Sounds like you have attacked the problem pretty well. Check the
fuses. Do a "pin" check for power and ground to the ECM. When you replaced the ECM,
did you use a new prom? If not, you could have a faulty prom. Check fuel pressure
and using a Noid light check the pulse at the injectors. For your information, the
injectors will have 12-volts and the computer momentarily grounds them to open the
injector.
Question: 1997 VW Jetta 2.0 mileage: 40,000. I have never had this problem
until now. After driving the car during the day, I tried to start it a few hours
later, and the engine was cranking but it wouldn't start. I had the oil changed
a few weeks earlier and had them replace the air filter also. I looked under the
hood and noticed that the air cleaner cover had not been put on correctly. The roads
were very wet that morning so I thought it may have gotten some moisture into the
intake. There was some water in the hose that goes from the air cleaner box to the
intake. I cleaned it out and reinstalled the cover correctly, but it still wouldn't
start. I then checked the distributor cap to see if there was any moisture. It was
dry, but there's a lot of carbon on the inside of the cap and the terminals. The
rotor is also blackened on the outside. Could this be the problem, (I'm going to
replace them anyway), or is it possible that the loose cover was the cause?
Answer: The cap and rotor is probably not causing your problem. You must
determine if your engine will not start because of lack of fuel or lack of spark.
If fuel is the problem, check the fuel pump, pressure etc. If no spark, check the
coil, distributor, 12 volts to the coil, etc.
Question: 92 Chevy S10 Blazer 4.3 Vortec mileage: 106k. I have a starting
problem. The engine takes an excessive amount of cranking to start. When it does
start, I can see a small cloud of brown smoke and a strong smell of gas. Also, the
engine has a sluggish pick-up and will idle roughly at a stop. If the car is left
to sit 2-3 days, it starts right up with no hesitation. I realize it is probably
running rich, what steps do I take to correct this problem. I have replaced: spark
plugs, fuel filter(s), and coolant temperature switch to no avail. Olin
Answer: Check the fuel pressure regulator. The diaphragm inside has probably
failed.
Question: 1996 Plymouth/Voyager 2.4L mileage: 65,000. Intermittent problem,
turn key, dash lights up, starter does nothing. PCM, automatic shutdown relays,
and starter have been replaced. PCM does not capture code when this happens. Have
used a co-pilot, this does not capture any malfunction codes. The dealer and Plymouth
are stumped. Can you help?
Answer: From what you have explained, the starter would have been the
first suspect. However, since you have had it replaced, we would next check the
ignition switch and the neutral safety switch. If your battery is the original one,
take a look at it also as there could be an intermittent short occurring.
Question: 1997 Ford Escort Wagon 4 cyl mileage: 150,000. Operator ran
over a large rock with right side tires and engine shut off and wouldn't restart.
Engine turns over but won't start.
Answer: Try resetting the inertia fuel shut-off switch located in the
cargo area above the right wheelwell.
Question: 1992 Mercury Sable 6 cylinder mileage: 100,000. My car will
not start after sitting idle for a while. After I once get it cranked, it will do
fine until the next time I do not drive it for a while. This car has a brand new
transmission, a new fuel pump (thought this would solve the problem) and two new
sensors. I do not want to go through another trial and error and pay out money without
getting the car fixed. I will be traveling in about three weeks and I just have
to get his problem solved. The car has been put on a computerized board, but no
problems are showing up. There has to be a solution.
Answer: If the temperature sensor has not been replaced, it should be.
Next check for a leaky fuel injector and check the fuel pressure when the car will
not start.
Question: 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0 mileage: 56,000. Starting Problem:
Excessive cranking 2-3 seconds before starting, after start rpm drops low, but engine
recovers and does not stall, once started - runs fine at all speeds. Does not do
it every time, but appears to more frequent now. I expect soon it just won't start.
Answer: Scan the computer for fault codes and with the engine running,
read the data stream coming from the sensors to the computer. One of the sensors
may be out of range but still functioning.
Question: 1996 GMC Jimmy 4.3 mileage: 84,000. I have recently had problems
with starting my 1996 GMC Jimmy. When I turn the ignition key sometimes it will
turn over with no trouble and others will make a loud grinding noise and will sometimes
hesitate to start. If I give it a little gas, it will help but the grinding noise
continues. It sounds like when you leave the key turned for to long and the starter
is still trying to start the engine but it is happening before the engine is even
running. Once it is started there are no problems at all-knock on wood! This problem
just started two days ago and would like to get it resolved before I get stuck somewhere.
Answer: Your problems may be caused by a faulty ignition switch or starter
solenoid.
Question: 2000 Hyundai Sonata 4 cyl mileage: 17,000. OK every time I stop
to fill up with gas and shut the car off, once I am done pumping and try to start
the car it won't start! I have to ride the gas pedal for a little to keep it from
stalling out. If I leave the car running while I pump gas it is fine. Just wondering
what that could be to it only when I pump gas. It's starting to be a hassle! I bought
it brand new and it always done this. I hate taking to the dealer because half time
they don't what to FIX or where the part is that they ordered! Already had the radio
replaced and it still comes in and out while I drive!
Answer: Check the vapor recovery system for the fuel tank. There must
be a valve stuck or hanging up causing raw fuel to be drawn into the engine.
Question: 1990 Chevy 2500 350 TBI mileage: 57,000. Truck ran just fine
until I hooked up a 24ft gooseneck trailer to it to pull in a parade. I made it
5 or 6 blocks and when I came to a stoplight, it died. The coil was somewhat hot
so I replaced it. This didn't help. I then changed the ECM that came off a buddies
wrecked truck. Again no luck. I've checked all the fuses and wiring, everything
seems fine. The engine turns over but won't fire. Checked the TBI, I have fuel in
tank, but none to the TBI. No fuel and no fire. Can you help me?
Answer: Check for fuel pressure as it sounds like your fuel pump has failed.
Question: 1996 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L 8-cylinder mileage: 60,000. When
my vehicle has been sitting cold for 8+ hours, it starts beautifully and immediately.
However, if I try to start it 15 minutes to 3 hours after driving for awhile, it
has to turn over for a good 4 seconds before starting. I just had a major tune-up,
and the dealer "reset the performance memory" to try to fix this, but to no avail.
Could it be a fuel pump issue... perhaps some sort of relay that ties the fuel pump
to oil pressure that I've heard about?
Answer: First off, it is difficult to diagnose the car without seeing
it. What we would do is scan the computer data stream and read the values of all
the sensors, particularly the coolant temperature sensor.
Question: 1987 Jaguar XJ6 4.2L mileage: 122,000. I'm having a problem
with the fuel system on my jag. Recently when I drive it some place, when I go to
leave it won't start, I have spark but it just turns over and won't fire. I swapped
the run and start relays and it started once and then when I shut it off the same
problem occurred when I tried to restart it. But if I unplug the electrical connections
on the fuel pump in the trunk then plug them back in the car will start and run
fine until I turn it off. I'm getting kind of tired of taking my trunk apart to
get to my fuel pump every time I go someplace. If you can help, I would really appreciate
it. Thanks, Joshua
Answer: You may have a faulty fuel pump. When the car will not start,
check for 12 volts at the fuel pump. If 12 volts are present, your fuel pump is
the culprit.
Question: 1998 Ford Explorer 6 cylinder mileage: 40,000. The Explorer
would not start. We jumped started the car and the ABS light came on. I am assuming
this is referring to the Alternate Battery Source (alternator). The dashboard gauge
for the battery is normal and not showing low voltage. Does this sound like the
alternator?
Answer: Nice try but ABS stands for antilock brake system. The "ABS" light
will "light" when there is a malfunction in the braking system. The fault code is
then stored in the computer. The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored
faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. Because the ABS light indicates
something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood automobile service center sooner
rather than later is recommended. Your ABS system may not be functioning.
Question: 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8 mileage: 107,000. Hi Bob and Ken,
I have a 1991 Eclipse that I am told by a professional that there is a distributor
problem and that the distributor will need to be replaced. The problem is that the
car always needs a jump to get the car started and the car will continue to operate
until I shut the car off and I have to go thru the same thing again. The engine
will crank fine without the jump butt will not start. An automotive tech told me
that there was a problem with the distributor not getting enough voltage and that
is why it needs a jump. He says that I need to replace the distributor. This sounds
kind of weird to me to have to replace an entire distributor for a voltage problem.
Could you help set me straight on this matter? David
Answer: Check the voltage at the distributor when the engine is cranking.
It should be between 11 and 12 volts.
MORE: Engine wont start questions
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