Answer: You may have a fuel injector that is bad. Check the resistance of each injector. The alternator may be giving AC (alternating current) spikes into your electrical system. Try temporarily removing the belt from the alternator and see how the engine runs.

Question: 1993 S15 GMC Jimmy with a 4.3l vortec. The car wouldn't start the other night and it had to be towed home. Replaced the fuel pump twice and still no start. The fuel pressure would only go up to 30 and wouldn't hold. Replaced the fuel injection spider (very costly) but no luck. My husband finally replaced the fuel sending unit and it started, but only after he put some fuel in the intake (valve?). The car ran fine for a couple of days but today it would not start unless my son put some fuel in the intake again. That is the only way it will start. What can be the problem? We have a friend who is a GMC mechanic and he is stumped . . . then again, he told us to replace the fuel injection spider.

Answer: Since you did not mention it, we are assuming you did not have the computer scanned. If you haven't done so, do it now. It will tell you what is malfunctioning and causing the engine not to start.

Question: 1988 Ford Escort GL 1.9L mileage: 98K. I have a problem, I ran out of gas and now can't get started again, what do I do? (Yes, I put gas in her.)

Answer: Test for fuel pump pressure. Running out of gas is not a good idea for more than one reason. When a fuel pump runs with no gas in the vehicle it can damage the pump beyond repair.

Question: 1994 Saturn sedan 1.9 DOHC mileage: 200,000. Fuel pump replaced, now there is no pulse to the injectors. It has spark. Wondering if module needs to be replaced or possibly computer? There is no known engine light problem. There was no warning, just one day it would not start.

Answer: Scan the computer and read the data stream especially from the crank and cam angle sensors. Also, check all the fuses and the mass airflow sensor. If all this checks okay, you may have a bad computer.

Question: 2000 Cherokee Sport 4.0L V-6 mileage: 27,000. At 19,700 mi. starting delay developed. Starter would crank, but engine would not fire up for a few seconds, or not start at all on the first try. Dealership said that there was a bad fuel sensor. We had sensor replaced and problem persisted. Dealership had us pay for a fuel system cleaning, which did nothing. Dealership then replaced fuel pump, saying that the first one was definitely bad--still no change. One week later, nearly 7,000 miles since the problem began, they put a third fuel pump in, saying that the second one had gone bad. Again, there has been no change whatsoever. It seems as though they can't think of any other solution. Do you have any ideas? We want to make sure the problem is fixed before our warranty runs out. Thank you.

Answer: We would look at the fuel pressure regulator. It may have developed a pinhole leak in the diaphragm allowing raw gas to be drawn into the engine.

Question: 1986 Ford Bronco 302 mileage: 140,000. Recently, while driving at approximately 50 mph, the engine died. When I tried to start it again, the starter turned the engine over but it wouldn't start. I have recently put in a new electric fuel pump and changed all the filters outside the fuel tank. I had the control module tested and it was fine. I replaced the ignition coil and the starter solenoid. I checked the rotor and distributor cap and they were both fine. When I checked to make sure it was firing, it was. Someone suggested I might have a water vapor lock. Do you think this could be the problem? If so, how do I correct it?

Answer: Quite possibly the timing chain has failed. Do a compression check and also check for fuel pressure and spark to each cylinder at the correct time.

Question: 1995 Isuzu Truck 2.3 mileage: 125,000. Blew the head gasket (cooked it because of bad thermostat). Tore everything down, got the head milled, put everything back together. Now it won't start! Timing belt is absolutely on correctly. Vein on dist. points towards #1 and I put #1 @ TDC every time I try. Getting frustrating, I build Chevy racecars and feel like a real dummy for not being able to figure this one out! I really appreciate any help. If you could write to my email, it'd be great cuz I'm @ school and I can't bookmark this page. Matt

Answer: Well, seems time to go back to basics. Check the compression, check for the proper amount of fuel and spark at the right time.

Question: '89 Mercury Tracer. I towed my car to a mechanic because it wouldn't start when I was leaving work one day. He said that it needed a $300 tune-up. I thought that was high so I had another mechanic tow it and look at it. He said that he cleaned the fuel line and changed the spark plugs because they were "fouled." When I went to pick it up, they said that it smelled like fuel when they tried to start it and the plugs were "fouled" again. I haven't had my car in 2 weeks please tell me what they should be looking at. Thank you.

Answer: A faulty fuel pressure regulator would be our first guess. Next would be some leaky fuel injectors.

Question: 1988 BMW 325i 6 cy mileage: 125,000. My car ran great until last week. I could not start the car, it cranked and cranked but no fire. Took it to a mechanic who said it was a bad intake manifold hose. After repair and tune up, stopped for gas and got stuck again. After some time it started. Some people say fuel pump, but wouldn't the car stall while driving if the fuel pump was bad? I do not want to be burned by another mechanic. Could it be something as simple as a fuel filter? Thank you

Answer: Your no start problem may be the fuel pump. Fuel pumps normally fail to start after they are shut off. It is very rare for them to fail while they are running. Before you charge into replacing the fuel pump, determine if your car does not start because of lack of fuel or lack of spark. If it is getting fuel, the fuel pump is obviously not your problem.

Question: 1991 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo 3.0 DOHC mileage: 105,000. My Stealth won't start at times. When I try to start it the turbo boost gauge pegs itself and it sounds like relays in the dash are clicking. If I turn the key, on and off several times the boost gauge will return to normal and the car will start. My local Dodge dealer said they could plug it into their computer but it would not tell them what the problem would be. Help!

Answer: After reading your question we feel that the ignition switch may be the cause of your no start.

Question: 1985 Chrysler New Yorker 2.2 Turbo mileage: 97,000. The coil does not get electricity from the battery in order to fire. Wires have been traced to fender module no problems there. Fender control module receives no elect, but has been tested by replacements nothing. More wires traced to starter/solenoid still no problems with cracked, broken or bare wires. Battery wires good and fresh charge, still nothing. Diagnostic Computer indicates no problems. Vehicles on board computer indicates a code that is related to inadequate oil pressure. However, the oil pump, filter and all sensors have been replaced (and primed) as this was thought to have been the original problem of vehicle for just shutting down at 55 mph. The vehicle had died out once before rounding a turn (oil pressure gauge came on with the loss of power indicator) but fired right back up. This time it is down for the count and no one can explain why. Just one more note. The fender mounted computer module and the module located on passenger side inside cabin have both been swapped in/out in order to check them. Again, this is a defiant piece of machinery I'm working with and any help you can offer IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Answer: Check the ignition switch as it may not be working properly or possibly the ignition pick-up coil in the distributor may be faulty adjusted properly.

Question: 1965 Dodge D-700 361 mileage: 80,000. I have a farm truck that only gets driven a few times a year. It will not start. Very weak spark from the coil wire and I only am getting 2.3 volts from the positive side of the coil. Recently, new plugs, wires, points, condenser, cap and rotor and ran perfectly until now. I can't figure out where to look for lack of voltage to the coil. Should the negative side of the coil deliver 12 volts also? Help

Answer: With the points open, you should have approximately 12-volts at the coil. Check the point gap and the wires inside the distributor to make sure they are adjusted properly.

Question: 1995 GMC Jimmy 4.3L V6 mileage: 95,000. I have recently been having trouble starting my truck. It is cranking but won't start. Eventually it will start, but when it does it usually backfires a couple of times and then settles down. After it is started, it runs great. I took it in to the shop and they ran some diagnostics. They said it had a lazy throttle so they replaced the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). It didn't help. They also replaced the spark plugs. Since it runs great after it is started, I am wondering if it would have something to do with the choke. I'm not even sure how the choke works on a fuel injected vehicle, but I'm guessing there is something that functions like a choke. The shop mentioned something about a CPI unit. What is that? Thanks

Answer: Try replacing the fuel pump and the fuel filter.

Question: 1987 Ford Escort 1.9L EFI mileage: 153,000. I have an '87 Ford Escort, which has a starting problem that shows up only once every few weeks (which, of course, makes it very hard to diagnose). When the problem occurs the engine will crank but fail to start despite repeated attempts. If I leave the car for a few hours, it will then start just fine. I have traced the problem to the fuel system (no fuel is getting to the engine). The first time I experienced the problem I had a local repair shop look at it and they found no power at fuel pump. They found a number of corroded wires and replaced them and they checked the computer system with a scanner and found no codes. This, however, has not solved the problem. The one other clue is that when this problem occurs other things that usually kick-in when the key is in the run position also fail to work or work erratically (e.g. the automatic seatbelts fail to engage and the dashboard gauges behave erratically). Many thanks for any insight you can provide on this one.

Answer: You may have to replace the ignition switch (not to be confused with the ignition lock) to correct your problem.

Question: 1991 Chevy Beretta GTZ Quad 4 DOHC HO mileage: 66,000. Ok I am not getting power to my Fuel pump when I turn on the key; the Fuel pump is good. If I put a hot wire to the test lead the pump runs but the car will not idle. So, I was told new Fuel filter, Fuel relay switch, oil pressure switch and Fuel pump and screen. I have put all of these in and yet still, the car will not run. Please tell me what is wrong with my car. John

Answer: You need to scan the computer for a faulty sensor.

Question: 2000 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L Duratec mileage: 125,000. I have a new 2000 Ford Taurus SE with the 200 hp 3.0L 24v Duratec engine. I purchased this car only in Dec 1999. I have a starting problem in the car. After the car has been sitting for a while, it has a hard start upon turning the ignition key. Upon turning the key, it either cranks for an unusually long time before it starts, or I need to step on the throttle to make it start. This has been happening in hot weather. Actually the problem started happening intermittently in Spring 2000 and now I experience it every day. However, if the car is started when it has been sitting for less than 2-3 hours it starts up fine and while driving, I have not noticed any problem. I have taken it to the dealership three times already and they have performed several diagnostic tests without success. They have replaced the IAC, reprogrammed the path, and also replaced the fuel pump and accessories. Unfortunately, it has not solved the problem. Can you provide me with any new ideas? I feel frustrated having to deal with a nagging problem, which Ford seems unable to solve.

Answer: Check the fuel pressure when the no start condition occurs.

Question: 1985 Delta 88 5.0 mileage: 160,000. I washed the motor using a degreaser. I also cleaned the carburetor with carburetor cleaner. The car started a few times and it sputtered and then died. I haven't been able to start it again. Can you give me some troubleshooting ideas?

Answer: Check for water in the distributor, especially the bottom side of the distributor cap. Also, check the plug wires and shorting out.

Question: 94 Ford/Probe 2.5 V6 mileage: 102,000. The car quit while my wife was driving. I am not getting any fire from the distributor. I tried another distributor, crank position sensor, relay and PCM. Still cannot get any fire at the plugs.

Answer: Check the timing belt as it may have failed and consequently the distributor may not be rotating.

Question: 1993 Chevrolet Blazer 4.3 mileage: 85,000. My '93 Chevrolet Blazer recently got low on gas. I put more in and the next day the engine would not turn over. The spark plugs are getting fire and it is getting fuel to the fuel rail, but it would not start. Can you help me?

Answer: Check fuel pump pressure because the pump may have been damaged when you were low on gas.

Question: 1982 Chrysler New Yorker V-8--318 mileage: Sir: my question is the following: I have this 1982 Chrysler New Yorker and since a couple of months ago I been having problems with the timing...I replace the entire distributor, rotor cap, rotor, ignition coil, plugs and wires and fuel pump and I have tried to time the car with the timing gun. But, some days the car won't start at all, unless I move a little to either side the distributor and sometimes it won't start not even like that. I have done most of the troubleshooting tips from the book of this car make and model and I'm coming to the conclusion that the timing chain must be at fault. But, I would like some advise from pros like you guys. If I'm missing something to check, can you please also tell me the degrees at which the timing should be set and the proper procedure to set it on timing? This is for me to know if I'm doing everything right.

Answer: In view of all the "fixes" you have done, it probably is the timing chain that is causing your troubles. Remove the front timing chain cover and if it is the timing chain, you will discover a loose chain.

Question: 1987 Chevy Celebrity 4 cyl 2.5 mileage: 61,000. I have a 1987 Chevy Celebrity, that has been sitting for about 5 years. I don't know much about cars, but from what I could tell I was not getting any fuel, because the car will start, for a few seconds when I pour gasoline, into what looks to me to be the carburetor. (It is round, with a choke, and sits under the air breather, but because the car says 2.5FI on the side, I am being told the FI, stands for fuel injected, in which case the car would not have a carburetor, but it sure looks like one to me.) Anyway, I replaced the fuel pump, which definitely was faulty. I am now getting fuel almost up to what looks like a carburetor. A gas line goes to each side of it, and the line in the front gets filled with fuel. (When I unscrew it, fuel squirts out with much pressure). My problem is the fuel doesn't go anywhere. I even took off the carburetor-looking device and I can't see any place for the fuel to go. On the rear side of the carburetor looking device, small gas lines, that come from a fuel canister (located behind right headlight) line up with holes that look like they would allow fuel to pass through. Is it possible that I mixed up the lines when installing the new fuel pump? At present, I have the line that is pumping the gas attached so it will go through the fuel filter. Or could some small outlet (that is too small for me to see) be clogged, causing the fuel to be trapped in the line? All together, the car has 3 fuel lines coming from the gas tank. One goes to the front of the carburetor looking device, one goes to the back of the carburetor-looking device, and the last goes to the fuel canister. I apologize for my lack of knowledge and I hope I have explained the situation well enough for you to understand and help me.

Answer: Your car is fuel injected. The "carburetor" looking device is actually the throttle body for the fuel injection. The throttle body has two fuel lines; one in and one out and they will both be pressurized. We would guess that the fuel injectors themselves are not functioning. Either they are stuck from sitting for five years or they are not getting a pulse or signal from the computer to open. A Mitchell, Chilton, Haynes, dealer auto repair manual or a specialty repair book for your make of car will have diagrams and or specifications showing what you more about the fuel injection system. The manuals and books give step-by-step instructions.

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