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Wont Start-13 Car and Truck Engine Will Not Start
Questions This
category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.

Question:
2001 Chevrolet Impala, mileage: 92,000. My car won't
crank, and the radio, Onstar system, door-locks, and
remote transmitter won't work and I am hearing a
clicking sound at all four doors. My question to you is
what could be wrong with my vehicle? The battery is
brand new and all fuses are good. Also the interior
lights won't come on.
Answer:
If the battery cables where incorrectly hooked up
when the
new battery was installed, this could cause the body
control module to fail resulting in the symptoms you
described. Or you might have the car in security mode
and needs to be reset.
Question:
1998 Mercedes Benz ML320 6 cyl 3.2 mileage: 68,000. Was
working perfectly three weeks ago. I did not used for
those three weeks and the battery went down
(discharged). I took the battery out to charge it. The
battery was checked and it is in good condition (< 2
years old), I charged it and put it back and now the SUV
starts but it goes off immediately after. It stayed
without a battery for some hours (<5). Do you know if is
there a reset button, a known issue or anything that
needs to be done after replacing or recharging a
battery, having been without power for some hours, in
this vehicle ? Or what do you think the problem could
be?
Answer:
By
disconnecting and removing the battery and then
replacing it, you activated the anti-theft device in
your car. If you arm and disarm the anti-theft device,
it should reset. If this does not work using the remote,
try locking and unlocking the driver side door with the
key.
Question: 2000 Jaguar s-type. This car was hit
lightly, not enough to buy new body parts (front fender)
however, the car will not start. It turns over and the
lights work but the car will not start. I have tried
much research, however do not know where to start with
this problem, any advice would be helpful.
Answer: Your car is equipped with an inertia
switch that was probably tripped when your car was
lightly hit. It is probably located in the trunk. Your
owner’s manual will have the location.
Question: 1989 Thunderbird 3.8 SC
mileage: 112,000. Cranks, no start, no spark. What type
of signal comes from the crank and cam sensors? How can
I check to see if they are good? How can I check the
spark control Module and the coil? Ford checked out the
car and said it was a wiring problem on the ignition
harness. I removed it checked every wire and nothing is
wrong with the harness. Where can I find the exact specs
and schematics on the ignition?
Answer: The crank and cam angle
sensors put out an AC voltage signal. The best way to
check the spark control module and the coil is by
substitution of a known good unit. A Mitchell, Chilton,
Haynes, dealer auto repair manual or a specialty repair
book for your make of car will have diagrams and or
specifications showing what you are looking for. The
manuals and books give step-by-step instructions.
Click here to find out more
Question: 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada
4.3 mileage: 52,000. My 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada has been
running perfectly, but one day my wife went out to start
it and it wouldn't start. It cranks, but doesn't
actually start. Also, none of the engine warning lights
and gauges seem to be working, but everything else
(radio, bright light indicator, hazard lights indicator)
does. I've checked all the fuses and they're fine. I
have even put in a new battery. Yes, there is gas in the
Bravada, a half tank. My handheld diagnostic tool that
hooks up to the module under the dash flashed all 8's,
which means that it can't even get a reading to
troubleshoot the problem. I hope it is something that
can easily be fixed. What's the problem?
Answer: With a test light, check for
12 volts on all the fuses in the fuse panel while the
key is on. If half the fuse panel is dead, you probably
have a faulty ignition switch. If the panel tests okay,
most likely you have a bad connection in the power
distribution center.
Question: 1991 Chevrolet Corsica 3.1
litre mileage: 200,000. I am stumped on this one. The
car started to have an intermittent start when hot and I
found that there was no fuel pressure and replaced the
pump. Two days later, something happened but this time I
had fuel pressure and spark but no injector pulse. When
I grounded the RPM reference wire to the ECU through a
test light nothing happened so I replaced the ECU. It
started for 30 seconds died and then I had the same
problem as before except that when I grounded the purple
and white RPM reference wire to the ECU I had injector
pulse. So, I then changed the ignition module behind the
coil packs but it made no change. What else could it be
everything seems to check out fine but no start??? Can
you help?
Answer: Your problem sounds like a
failing crank angle sensor. Replacing it should fix your
problem.
Question: 1987 Honda CRX 1.5L
mileage: 161,000. I've had an intermittent no-start
condition with my fuel-injected CRX, which has now
become a total no-start condition. I've suspected the
ignition system, and I've replaced the ignition module,
coil, cap, rotors, wires, and plugs. I am concentrating
on the ignition system because the fuel pump is
definitely pumping gas. (I have taken carburetor cleaner
and sprayed it directly into the intake manifold to test
for a no-fuel problem and still it won't start.) The
problem is like an on-off switch, when it starts it
starts and runs fine and otherwise it won't start. Even
though it won't start, I still get a spark. I have
replaced ignition components thinking that it was a weak
spark, as I read in another question on this site, and
I've steered away from labeling the fuel system as the
culprit because of dumping the carb cleaner straight
into the intake - I don't get a sputter or anything,
there is no reaction whatsoever. In addition I've tested
battery voltage - it seems to be 12.5V volts and the
battery is good. I hope you can tell me something I'm
missing.
Answer: Do a fuel pump pressure
test. Your problems may be related to lack of fuel. By
the way, carburetor cleaner will not start an engine.
Question: 1994 GMC Safari 4.3L V-6
mileage: 123,000. My 1994 GMC Safari 4.3L V-6 stopped
running. After going through the whole fuel system I
found that the fuel pump was bad. I had only forty psi.
When I replaced the pump the van started right up. The
pump gave me sixty psi then the van stopped again, no
fuel pressure at all. I can hear the pump running. I
climbed under the van to see if it was leaking, I found
I had fuel coming from my muffler. Can you tell me what
happened and how to fix it?
Answer: It appears that the fuel
pressure regulator diaphragm has failed, dumping raw
fuel into the engine. Another possibility is that a fuel
injector stuck open. Replacing the faulty part should
fix your problem.
Question: 1992 Chevrolet Astro van
mileage: 143,000. I have a starting problem that
suddenly appeared. The fuel pump runs sometimes when the
ignition switch is turned on (for 2 seconds, to prime
the system), and sometimes will not. A pressure gauge at
the fuel port shows 51 PSI after the pump has been run
(after priming cycle); 59 PSI while the pump is running.
(Engine off). To get the engine to start, I tried
bypassing the relay (sending 12 V through the 'prime'
connector under the hood), and it started, although with
difficulty and several stalls. Once the engine is
running, the fuel pump relay will make contact and I can
release the starter switch I used to send power to the
priming connector. The engine will refuse to fire the
fuel injector until I force the pump to run (which
boosts the pressure to 59 PSI). Very strange. I'd
replace the regulator next, but it's sold with the
injector assembly and it looks like they built the van
around it! A flow test with a pressure gauge (again,
using a wire to send power to the pump) showed what I
though look like good flow with a constant 51 PSI. There
seemed to be air passing through the clear bypass line.
(The gauge reads 1/2 tank, and I'm certain it's at least
1/3 full. The book I bought says 'approximately 58-64
PSI' is good. How approximately? HELP! I'm from the old
school - 5-PSI mechanical fuel pumps, and looking down
the carburetor to diagnose fuel problems. Do the drive
train control computers pack up in these trucks? Randy,
Calgary, Alberta
Answer: It appears that your problem
is the fuel pressure regulator. It is part of the fuel
injector assembly. Unfortunately, the entire assembly
has to be changed.
Question:
1985 Pontiac Fiero V6 mileage: 185,000.
My wife's '85 Pontiac Fiero had been running fine
all day Friday. Came out to start it Saturday morning
and it wouldn't start.
Engine turns over just fine.
Plenty of gas in the tank.
Just won't fire up?
Should I smell gas when pumping pedal?
It's fuel injection so I'm not sure.
Removed a plug and checked for a spark while my
wife turned it over, didn't see one?
Both the coil and what ever it plugs into at the
base of the distributor cap tested fine according to the
local Auto parts store down the street.
I'm at a loss; any advice would be greatly
appreciated.
Answer:
Here are some things to have checked:
1. Check to see if the timing belt/chain has
failed, 2. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 3.
Check for fuel pressure, 4. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for
fault or error codes.
The information should pinpoint the
malfunctioning components.
Question:
1987 Ford Tempo 2.3 mileage: 125,000.
Having trouble starting; turns over but won't
start, replaced ignition switch.
I’m getting gas to the filter; checked the rotor
cap and replaced spark plugs; wires look okay.
It did start once the other morning with a jump
but as soon as I took the cables off it died.
Any ideas?
Answer:
Check the ECC relay in the main power block; it is brown
and black in color.
This could be the cause of your no start problem.
Question:
1991 Mazda B-2200 Pick up 2.2L mileage: 128,000.
My truck has an intermittent no start problem.
When it does start, it runs normally.
When it does not start, the only time I get a
spark from the wire, from coil to the distributor, is
when I release the ignition key from the start to the
run position.
How do I determine where the problem is?
The truck has a manual transmission, nonfuel
injected, and standard ignition.
I have asked this question at several other web
sites and no one has responded.
Is this that tough of a problem to solve?
Thanks Much, Mark
Answer:
Your occasional no start problem may be a faulty
ignition switch.
When the car is acting up (no start) check for 12 volts
to the coil.
If there is no voltage, then the probable cause is the
ignition switch.
If there is 12 volts, it may be a bad ignition module.
Question:
1993 Mazda B-2200
mileage: 80,000.
My car was tuned up in October...muffler is basically
new all around.
Started my car the other day and it was very loud and
black soot came out of tailpipe.
Did not drive it for a week because I was out of
town. When
I got back truck would not start - it was not the
battery...turns over but does not start.
My air filter gets dirty quickly.
I am not losing oil.
Mechanic towed it...put new plugs in it and said
the motor was going.... it probably was the rings.
Does not sound like rings because I thought that
if there was a ring problem I would be burning or losing
oil. What
do you think?
Thank you
Answer:
From the symptoms you have described, you may have a
cracked or broken exhaust manifold.
If the manifold is cracked or broken, the
warm-air pickup on the exhaust manifold, puts the
exhaust into the air cleaner and dirties up the
air-filter very quickly causing your no start problem.
Question:
I have an 1986 Ford Club Wagon.
Battery tests at 11.5 volts.
Van will not start- just clicks.
What could that be?
Answer:
Here are some things to check.
Charge the battery and then load test it.
Check to see that the battery cable connections
are clean.
Check for 12 volts to the starter solenoid with the key
in the start position.
These things should be checked first then the ignition
switch, starter and starter solenoid.
One of these may be faulty.
Question:
1991 Olds 98 3.8
mileage: 111,941.
My car will not start after the engine cools down.
The mechanic has replaced the crankshaft,
camshaft sensors, IGN module and computer.
He has checked for electrical problems.
Computer shows everything is fine.
He has been playing with it for about 3 weeks.
Originally, it burned up the two sensors and the
module and he does not know why it did that.
He is really stumped.
Any ideas?
Even tried a new coil pack.
Two mechanics now stumped.
They have asked several gm mechanics in area as
well.
Answer:
Your stalling problem may be caused by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your
problem.
Question:
1996 Pontiac Sunfire mileage:
36,000.
When I put the key in the ignition it will not turn.
The key is not broken and will go in and out
freely. A
friend said that my car may have an anti-theft device
that locks the ignition if someone tries to put the
wrong key in it (my mother borrowed the car), is that a
possibility?
If it is, how do I get it unlocked?
If it isn't, what else could be the problem?
Answer: Try putting the key in the
ignition and turn the key while turning or rocking the
steering wheel left and right.
The steering wheel lock sometimes binds the
ignition switch.
Question:
1982 BMW 323i 6 cyl mileage: 162,000.
I have had trouble starting my car from a cold
start, it has an automatic choke but I have had to put
my foot on the accelerator to get the fuel to carburetor
until the choke takes hold at about 20000 revs.
Then when the car engine is hot and the engine
idles at about 9000 I have no trouble at all, I can
start it straight away.
It doesn't stall or anything - I had the mixture
done by a BMW mechanic but so far, he can't suggest what
may be the problem, any suggestions?
Answer:
Is your car equipped with fuel injection or a
carburetor?
We think it should be fuel injected.
If so, the thermotime switch for the cold start
injector may be faulty or it may be the coolant
temperature sensor.

Repair Topics / Car
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