Answer: By disconnecting and removing the battery and then replacing it, you activated the anti-theft device in your car. If you arm and disarm the anti-theft device, it should reset. If this does not work using the remote, try locking and unlocking the driver side door with the key.

Question: 2000 Jaguar s-type. This car was hit lightly, not enough to buy new body parts (front fender) however, the car will not start. It turns over and the lights work but the car will not start. I have tried much research, however do not know where to start with this problem, any advice would be helpful.

Answer: Your car is equipped with an inertia switch that was probably tripped when your car was lightly hit. It is probably located in the trunk. Your owner’s manual will have the location.

Question: 1989 Thunderbird 3.8 SC mileage: 112,000. Cranks, no start, no spark. What type of signal comes from the crank and cam sensors? How can I check to see if they are good? How can I check the spark control Module and the coil? Ford checked out the car and said it was a wiring problem on the ignition harness. I removed it checked every wire and nothing is wrong with the harness. Where can I find the exact specs and schematics on the ignition?

Answer: The crank and cam angle sensors put out an AC voltage signal. The best way to check the spark control module and the coil is by substitution of a known good unit. A Mitchell, Chilton, Haynes, dealer auto repair manual or a specialty repair book for your make of car will have diagrams and or specifications showing what you are looking for. The manuals and books give step-by-step instructions.

Question: 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada 4.3 mileage: 52,000. My 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada has been running perfectly, but one day my wife went out to start it and it wouldn't start. It cranks, but doesn't actually start. Also, none of the engine warning lights and gauges seem to be working, but everything else (radio, bright light indicator, hazard lights indicator) does. I've checked all the fuses and they're fine. I have even put in a new battery. Yes, there is gas in the Bravada, a half tank. My handheld diagnostic tool that hooks up to the module under the dash flashed all 8's, which means that it can't even get a reading to troubleshoot the problem. I hope it is something that can easily be fixed. What's the problem?

Answer: With a test light, check for 12 volts on all the fuses in the fuse panel while the key is on. If half the fuse panel is dead, you probably have a faulty ignition switch. If the panel tests okay, most likely you have a bad connection in the power distribution center.

Question: 1991 Chevrolet Corsica 3.1 litre mileage: 200,000. I am stumped on this one. The car started to have an intermittent start when hot and I found that there was no fuel pressure and replaced the pump. Two days later, something happened but this time I had fuel pressure and spark but no injector pulse. When I grounded the RPM reference wire to the ECU through a test light nothing happened so I replaced the ECU. It started for 30 seconds died and then I had the same problem as before except that when I grounded the purple and white RPM reference wire to the ECU I had injector pulse. So, I then changed the ignition module behind the coil packs but it made no change. What else could it be everything seems to check out fine but no start??? Can you help?

Answer: Your problem sounds like a failing crank angle sensor. Replacing it should fix your problem.

Question: 1987 Honda CRX 1.5L mileage: 161,000. I've had an intermittent no-start condition with my fuel-injected CRX, which has now become a total no-start condition. I've suspected the ignition system, and I've replaced the ignition module, coil, cap, rotors, wires, and plugs. I am concentrating on the ignition system because the fuel pump is definitely pumping gas. (I have taken carburetor cleaner and sprayed it directly into the intake manifold to test for a no-fuel problem and still it won't start.) The problem is like an on-off switch, when it starts it starts and runs fine and otherwise it won't start. Even though it won't start, I still get a spark. I have replaced ignition components thinking that it was a weak spark, as I read in another question on this site, and I've steered away from labeling the fuel system as the culprit because of dumping the carb cleaner straight into the intake - I don't get a sputter or anything, there is no reaction whatsoever. In addition I've tested battery voltage - it seems to be 12.5V volts and the battery is good. I hope you can tell me something I'm missing.

Answer: Do a fuel pump pressure test. Your problems may be related to lack of fuel. By the way, carburetor cleaner will not start an engine.

Question: 1994 GMC Safari 4.3L V-6 mileage: 123,000. My 1994 GMC Safari 4.3L V-6 stopped running. After going through the whole fuel system I found that the fuel pump was bad. I had only forty psi. When I replaced the pump the van started right up. The pump gave me sixty psi then the van stopped again, no fuel pressure at all. I can hear the pump running. I climbed under the van to see if it was leaking, I found I had fuel coming from my muffler. Can you tell me what happened and how to fix it?

Answer: It appears that the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm has failed, dumping raw fuel into the engine. Another possibility is that a fuel injector stuck open. Replacing the faulty part should fix your problem.

Question: 1992 Chevrolet Astro van mileage: 143,000. I have a starting problem that suddenly appeared. The fuel pump runs sometimes when the ignition switch is turned on (for 2 seconds, to prime the system), and sometimes will not. A pressure gauge at the fuel port shows 51 PSI after the pump has been run (after priming cycle); 59 PSI while the pump is running. (Engine off). To get the engine to start, I tried bypassing the relay (sending 12 V through the 'prime' connector under the hood), and it started, although with difficulty and several stalls. Once the engine is running, the fuel pump relay will make contact and I can release the starter switch I used to send power to the priming connector. The engine will refuse to fire the fuel injector until I force the pump to run (which boosts the pressure to 59 PSI). Very strange. I'd replace the regulator next, but it's sold with the injector assembly and it looks like they built the van around it! A flow test with a pressure gauge (again, using a wire to send power to the pump) showed what I though look like good flow with a constant 51 PSI. There seemed to be air passing through the clear bypass line. (The gauge reads 1/2 tank, and I'm certain it's at least 1/3 full. The book I bought says 'approximately 58-64 PSI' is good. How approximately? HELP! I'm from the old school - 5-PSI mechanical fuel pumps, and looking down the carburetor to diagnose fuel problems. Do the drive train control computers pack up in these trucks? Randy, Calgary, Alberta

Answer: It appears that your problem is the fuel pressure regulator. It is part of the fuel injector assembly. Unfortunately, the entire assembly has to be changed.

Question: 1985 Pontiac Fiero V6 mileage: 185,000.  My wife's '85 Pontiac Fiero had been running fine all day Friday. Came out to start it Saturday morning and it wouldn't start.  Engine turns over just fine.  Plenty of gas in the tank.  Just won't fire up?   Should I smell gas when pumping pedal?   It's fuel injection so I'm not sure.  Removed a plug and checked for a spark while my wife turned it over, didn't see one?  Both the coil and what ever it plugs into at the base of the distributor cap tested fine according to the local Auto parts store down the street.  I'm at a loss; any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Answer:  Here are some things to have checked: 1. Check to see if the timing belt/chain has failed, 2. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 3. Check for fuel pressure, 4. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error codes.  The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.

Question: 1987 Ford Tempo 2.3 mileage: 125,000.  Having trouble starting; turns over but won't start, replaced ignition switch.  I’m getting gas to the filter; checked the rotor cap and replaced spark plugs; wires look okay.  It did start once the other morning with a jump but as soon as I took the cables off it died.   Any ideas?

Answer:   Check the ECC relay in the main power block; it is brown and black in color.  This could be the cause of your no start problem.

Question: 1991 Mazda B-2200 Pick up 2.2L mileage: 128,000.  My truck has an intermittent no start problem.  When it does start, it runs normally.  When it does not start, the only time I get a spark from the wire, from coil to the distributor, is when I release the ignition key from the start to the run position.  How do I determine where the problem is?  The truck has a manual transmission, nonfuel injected, and standard ignition.  I have asked this question at several other web sites and no one has responded.  Is this that tough of a problem to solve?  Thanks Much, Mark

Answer:   Your occasional no start problem may be a faulty ignition switch.  When the car is acting up (no start) check for 12 volts to the coil.  If there is no voltage, then the probable cause is the ignition switch.  If there is 12 volts, it may be a bad ignition module.

Question: 1993 Mazda B-2200  mileage: 80,000.   My car was tuned up in October...muffler is basically new all around.  Started my car the other day and it was very loud and black soot came out of tailpipe.  Did not drive it for a week because I was out of town.  When I got back truck would not start - it was not the battery...turns over but does not start.  My air filter gets dirty quickly.  I am not losing oil.  Mechanic towed it...put new plugs in it and said the motor was going.... it probably was the rings.  Does not sound like rings because I thought that if there was a ring problem I would be burning or losing oil.  What do you think?  Thank you

Answer:   From the symptoms you have described, you may have a cracked or broken exhaust manifold.  If the manifold is cracked or broken, the warm-air pickup on the exhaust manifold, puts the exhaust into the air cleaner and dirties up the air-filter very quickly causing your no start problem.

Question: I have an 1986 Ford Club Wagon.  Battery tests at 11.5 volts.  Van will not start- just clicks.  What could that be?

Answer:   Here are some things to check.  Charge the battery and then load test it.  Check to see that the battery cable connections are clean.  Check for 12 volts to the starter solenoid with the key in the start position.  These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid.  One of these may be faulty.

Question: 1991 Olds 98 3.8 mileage: 111,941.  My car will not start after the engine cools down.  The mechanic has replaced the crankshaft, camshaft sensors, IGN module and computer.   He has checked for electrical problems.   Computer shows everything is fine.  He has been playing with it for about 3 weeks.  Originally, it burned up the two sensors and the module and he does not know why it did that.  He is really stumped.  Any ideas?  Even tried a new coil pack.  Two mechanics now stumped.  They have asked several gm mechanics in area as well.

Answer:   Your stalling problem may be caused by the fuel pump.   Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem.

Question: 1996 Pontiac Sunfire mileage: 36,000.   When I put the key in the ignition it will not turn.  The key is not broken and will go in and out freely.  A friend said that my car may have an anti-theft device that locks the ignition if someone tries to put the wrong key in it (my mother borrowed the car), is that a possibility?  If it is, how do I get it unlocked?  If it isn't, what else could be the problem?

Answer:   Try putting the key in the ignition and turn the key while turning or rocking the steering wheel left and right.  The steering wheel lock sometimes binds the ignition switch.

Question: 1982 BMW 323i 6 cyl mileage: 162,000.  I have had trouble starting my car from a cold start, it has an automatic choke but I have had to put my foot on the accelerator to get the fuel to carburetor until the choke takes hold at about 20000 revs.  Then when the car engine is hot and the engine idles at about 9000 I have no trouble at all, I can start it straight away.  It doesn't stall or anything - I had the mixture done by a BMW mechanic but so far, he can't suggest what may be the problem, any suggestions?

Answer:  Is your car equipped with fuel injection or a carburetor?   We think it should be fuel injected.  If so, the thermo-time switch for the cold start injector may be faulty or it may be the coolant temperature sensor.

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