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Car Engine Will Not Start Questions
Question: 1998 Ford Escort Z x 2 mileage: 109,000. The other day I ran out
of gas. I went and got gas put the gas in and my car still won't start. I have checked
the fuses and I tried to do the fuel switch off thing...nothing will work. I try
to start it and it just keeps turning over but not starting. I also tried to have
it jumped and its not the battery. Any suggestions?
Answer: Check for fuel pressure while cranking the engine over. If there
is no pressure the fuel pump is damaged caused by running our of gas.
Question: 1999 Chrysler Concorde, mileage: 80,000. Won't start in cold
weather. During the summer it starts right up but as the temperature falls the harder
it is to start. It did the same thing last winter too. I tried disconnecting the
MAP sensor but it didn't make any difference. When I start the car it cranks and
tries to fire up then cranks again. Some times it takes 4 or 5 times of trying and
some times more, but if it is 50 degrees or warmer outside it fires right up. Also,
when it does finally start and I drive a ways, it will start again without a problem.
It only does this when it sits for awhile in cold temperatures I hope this gives
you enough info.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If
no codes are present check fuel pump pressure at the time of failure, replace as
needed.
Question: 2002 Chevrolet Impala, mileage: 88,000. My car won't start
on the first try...it takes at least three to four times before it will start.
It tries to catch and kind of sputters out, when it does finally start it seems
almost to lapse and then surge. I am not sure if that makes sense, but I don't
know how else to explain it. My husband has replaced the plugs and wires, we have
also taken it to be serviced at the dealership; they could not find anything wrong
with it. We are at a loss on what it could be....I am desperately wanting
to fix this problem, it's making me crazy!
Answer: Check your fuel pressure regulator, remove the
vacuum line to check for the presents of fuel. If so, replace fuel pressure regulator
with new to repair problem. (note: this is a common problem)
Question: 1999 Chevrolet Blazer, mileage: 90,000. Three weeks ago,
my son-in-law and I replaced the original engine with a short block and had the
heads re-conditioned at a machine shop. We have been unable to get the engine
started except for very short periods of time, 3 seconds or so. The coil tested
out of spec so it was replaced. The gasket under the throttle body was bad
so it was replaced also. I checked the throttle position sensor with a digital
voltmeter and compared it with a new sensor. The readings were nearly identical.
A self contained timing light would only flash 5 to ten times during cranking and
then no flash. I hooked up a 12v Sun timing light and it flashes every time.
Hooking a spark plug wire to an old plug to test for fire shows a blue spark the
first few times and changes to a red spark indicating to me a weak spark.
The fuel injectors seem to be spraying too much gas and it is my opinion they are
flooding the engine. I checked the engine codes and got a 12 only. I
borrowed a good computer and installed it. No change in the spark color or
starting. I un-hooked the fuel pump relay and cranked the engine. After
four or five seconds, the fuel injectors start spraying. Today I checked and
compared the engine temperature sensor to a new one and again it was nearly the
same resistance. Tomorrow I plan to check cranking vacuum and compression.
If things look good, one last thing I plan to change the injectors with a set from
a 3.1 engine. This will be only a test to prove if the original injectors
are spraying too much fuel. Any other ideas?Answer:
Check the fuel injectors, if one is shorted it will cause the injector driver to
go full open signal. Disconnect the fuel injectors to test resistance across the
terminals to located shorted injector. Replace as needed to repair problem.
Question: 1999 Mitsubishi Mirage, mileage 130,000: We just changed
the alternator and jump started the car. After a couple of minutes the engine
light came on, the car beeped three times and then the car shut itself off. The
car can't be restarted. We jumped it a second time with the same results.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held
engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we think you may have shorted an electrical circuit. Check all fuses
replace as needed.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet Venture, mileage: 120,000.
Ok...I give up. I have a degree in Criminal Justice...not auto mechanics.
My car had been having some issues with the ignition. Might have to try it 3-4-5
times before it would "catch" and start. I thought it may be the solenoid...so
I replaced the starter and solenoid unit...it was under warranty. Then it
wouldn't do anything...period. Nothing, no lights, dome light, buzzer on the ignition...nothing.
So I asked around and was told it may be the ignition starter switch...the one you
have to drop down the steering column to get too. Took it to parts store and
they tested it with a volt meter and said it was bad...I thought great, finally
a reprieve,,,, but no that didn't work either....I'm pulling my hair out!
Answer: Its sounds like you have positive/negative
battery cable that needs replacing. The fact you have no power anywhere tells us
that your main power system is non fictional, pointing us to the battery cables.
Question: 1999 Ford F-250, Mileage: 115,000. My truck stumbled due to
fuel starvation, and died along the highway in the middle of the Arizona desert
last week. Fuel is no longer being delivered to the injection. Fuel pump is new
but does not come on when the truck ignition is turned on. All wires going to the
pump are in good order. Replaced the fuel pump relay but no help. Put a test light
on the relays contacts and found one wire was hot with the ignition on. Cannot find
a fused link in the engine compartment and all fuses in the passenger compartment
looked OK although I found none marked fuel pump. What is wrong with my truck?
Answer: It sounds like you have a fuel pump that is starting to fail.
Test for fuel pressure at the time of failure. Replace fuel pump as needed to repair
problem.
Question: 2002 Chevrolet S-10 pick up, miles: 79,000 The Passlock anti-theft
deterrent system is malfunctioning. My truck thinks I am trying to steal it. The
engine will fire but after 2 seconds, the computer cuts the fuel line to prevent
theft. The owner's manual says this is caused by a faulty key or some kind of contaminant
in the starter itself. I've tried the manual's way of bypassing this (wait 10 minutes
and retry) but, nothing is working. The dealer wants to charge me over $700 when
this is all said and done. Have you guys heard about any other ways to bypass this?
Matt
Answer: To reset the pass lock system, turn key on for five
minuets, then shut key off for five minuets. then restart normally. If the system
resets for no reason you need to replace the anti theft module.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet Corvette, mileage: 130,000. When I start the
engine it sounds as if the starter is still engaged and spinning at the same speed
as the flywheel and not grinding. Then when I turn the key completely off the engine
continues cranking as if I was trying to start it, but the key is completely off.
Any ideas? Starter? Relay?
Answer: It appears that you probably have a bad starter and/or solenoid.
Replace with new to repair problem.
Question: 1999 Honda Civic, mileage: 151,016. Having just taken the car
through an emissions inspection, I found my hydrocarbon outputs a bit too close
to the limits, so I felt a tune up was in order. I have replaced the spark plugs,
wires, distributor cap and rotor, both fuel and air filters, some leaking fuel lines
that I found in the process, PCV valve, and I changed the oil. Now, the car will
not start. I have verified that I have spark from each of the spark plug wires,
(By holding a connected spark plug against the valve cover with pliers and cranking
the engine.) and the firing order is the same as when the old components were removed.
(I made a diagram.) I do have fuel getting to the intake and all vacuum lines are
connected where they should be. Compression should not be an issue, because the
car ran before I did the tune up. I have checked everything that my Haynes manual
has recommended me to try. The PCV valve fits into a socket on the block and a tube
leads from a nipple on the PCV valve to the intake manifold. The old valve was dangling
from the tube, and not fitted into the socket. I put the new one in correctly, however
this should not affect the starting of the engine. I walked to a Honda Dealership
and asked a mechanic if there were any other things I should check. (I do have fairly
good mechanical knowledge and experience, but it's always good to ask the experts.)
I have also tried replacing all the old parts that I removed, including the leaking
fuel hoses. There is no way I could have installed the distributor cap or rotor
180 Degrees out of phase, as I have purposely tried to install it wrong. Ether starting
spray will not work, nor will cranking with the throttle to the floor. I have let
it sit for a few hours with the plugs out to allow any excess gas to evaporate.
I am all out of ideas, as is my father, and several mechanic friends.
Answer: It sounds like you may have a timing belt that has failed and
needs replacing. Remove the timing belt inspection cover to check.
Question: 1994 Ford F150, mileage: 190,000. Will cold start
fine...will not hot start. Replaced the battery, etc. after testing showed bad.
But, still did not start and made horrible grinding type noise when the key was
turned to start it. Finally got it to start and immediately took it home. After
sitting about 1 - 1 1/2 hours it did start but made same noise!
Answer: You may have a faulty starter, replace with new to repair problem.
Question: 2003 Infinity M45 mileage: 50,000. The fuel pump died and I
replaced it, Then it was very hard to start and would fuel up quickly and all cylinders.
It was drivable if it would start but at about 80% power. Once it ran it would start
again without to much trouble but after a day or two it was hard to start (10-15
min of cranking). I replaced Coil, Plugs, Module, MAF; NO Change. I got no codes.
I replaced the ECM the car started right up no carbon, 100% power. The third time
I started it (30 min total time on new ECM) it stopped dead in its tracks- NO Codes.
Next day no start at all- No Codes. Could something be wiping out the RAM in the
ECM?
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If
no codes are present we would check the fuel pump.
Question: 1998 Dodge Dakota, mileage: 114,000. The car is not getting
any fuel but has correct fuel pressure to injectors. Car will start after being
pulled (about 30 mph), but will not start on its own. Lowest compression is about
65 lbs on two cylinders. Car runs great after being pulled and started. Can you
tell us anything - if not, do you have suggestions where to look?
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If
no codes are present we would check the catalytic converter.
Question: 2001 Honda Civic, mileage: 75,000. The fuel pump in my car went
out so it was replaced. It still won't start. There's no power to the fuel pump
when the ignition switch is on, but when it is at start position there is power
to the fuel pump. Are there any inline fuses to the fuel pump that could be the
problem, and if so where are they located? There is no power coming from the computer
to tell the electrical circuit to run the fuel pump. The electrical circuit has
also been replaced.
Answer: There is a good chance the fuel pump has installed incorrectly.
Recheck the installation of the fuel pump.
Question: 1995 BMW 325i, mileage: 99,000. Shut this car off one afternoon,
but the next morning it would not start; it has been very reliable with no problems.
It fired once, then died. I got it started, finally, but it was missing really badly.
I shut it off and later tried to start it with no luck. I have done the following:
checked for trouble codes. The car cranks over and over, but doesn't fire. Could
weak plugs, faulty ignition be my problem? Is there some other module, etc. that
I should check? Is there a problem with the valves now? Compression? Your help would
be appreciated!
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If
no codes are present we would check the fuel pump.
Question: 2002 Ford Escape, miles: 89,000 We just had the heater core
replaced and all of a sudden once that was done, the truck won't start. A friend
seems to think the fuel pump isn't working now, as he doesn't hear anything when
he turns the ignition on. We were wondering before we replace the pump is there
any fuse that could have blown. If we have to replace the fuel pump any idea how
much that will cost to do...Grant.
Answer: Your vehicle is equipped with a fuel cut off safety
switch, check that first. Then scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held
engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.
Question: 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mileage: 100,000. Will
crank over, but will not start. Has no spark. Added new distributor cap and rotor,
still no spark. Checked coil with an ohmmeter and seems ok (0.6 ohm between + and
-. 6,500 ohms between + and anode. Infinity to core), suspected the ignition module,
but it tested ok at a parts store. Ignition Module was replaced 2 years ago. New
plugs and plug wires 1 year ago. What do you think?
First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair
codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present we would check
the crankshaft sensor.
Question: 1999 Porsche Boxster, miles: 67,000. I was hoping you could
help me with a problem I'm having. When I turn the key to start the engine nothing
happens, the engine won't turn over. I tried cleaning the battery connections, I
changed the ignition switch, checked the neutral safety switch, and it still won't
turn over, the starter solenoid doesn't even click. The lights, radio, clock and
all the buzzers work and the battery has 12 volts with the headlights on. If you
can give me any help with this problem, it would be much appreciated.
Answer: It could be that your immobilizer has malfunctioned. Check the
terminals to see if they are corroded. A starter relay powers the starter solenoid
which may have failed. Replace starter motor with new to repair problem.
Question: 2001 Ford Focus, mileage: 86,000. A few days ago my brother's
Escort broke the timing belt tensioner. We replaced the tensioner and the car ran
fine at idle, but when you start to put a load on the engine, it dies. So, we retimed
the car. We have the timing as close as we can tell to being perfect. Now the car
does not even attempt to start. The engine is getting fuel, the spark plugs are
firing. We've been told that this is a non-interference engine, but yesterday a
mechanic told us it is an interference engine. Which is right? Is it possible that
we bent a valve or are we just still that far out of time? Or, could it be something
totally different?
Answer: It sounds like the timing belt could be off a notch. The
best way to check for a bent valve is to do a compression check.
Question: 1996 Ford Crown Victoria, mileage: 115,000. The
problem is that the car does not start in the rain. I had this checked out by a
professional, and he thought it was the plugs and wires (to the best of my understanding).
He replaced all of these and still it does not start. I was wondering if it could
be anything else that could be repaired or replaced. The car is no longer worth
much, but it is a good car and I would like to get it running again. The cheaper
the solution the better.
Answer: When your car will not start here are some things
to have checked: 1. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 2. Check for fuel pressure,
3. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint
the malfunctioning components.
Question: 1999 Dodge Durango, mileage: 111,000. Had
a dead battery which we had replaced. Now the aftermarket alarm system will not
disengage and we cannot start the car. Can you help?
Answer: All aftermarket alarm system are not recommenced by
all car manufacturers. They are often made from inferior electronics and fail often.
Remove the alarm system to repair problem.
Question: 1999 BMW 528i, mileage: 110,000. During the spring/summer/fall,
when my car is warmed up to normal operating temp, if I shut it off and let it cool
down part way, it doesn't want to start. It acts like it is being choked. If it
cools completely, or if it is still at full temperature, it starts fine, but when
it has had 20-30 minutes to cool, it acts this way. It will run Very rough, when
it does finally start for about 30 seconds to a minute. Any thoughts?
Answer: An internal fuel leak, possibly a fuel injector or fuel pressure
regulator, could be causing your problem. Remove the vacuum line to check
for the presence of fuel. If so, replace fuel pressure regulator with new to repair
problem. (note: this is a common problem).
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