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Car and Truck Engine Will Not Start Questions

Answer: Check for fuel pressure while cranking the engine over. If there is no pressure the fuel pump is damaged caused by running our of gas.

Question: 1999 Chrysler Concorde, mileage: 80,000. Won't start in cold weather. During the summer it starts right up but as the temperature falls the harder it is to start. It did the same thing last winter too. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor but it didn't make any difference. When I start the car it cranks and tries to fire up then cranks again. Some times it takes 4 or 5 times of trying and some times more, but if it is 50 degrees or warmer outside it fires right up. Also, when it does finally start and I drive a ways, it will start again without a problem. It only does this when it sits for awhile in cold temperatures I hope this gives you enough info.

Answer:   First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present check fuel pump pressure at the time of failure, replace as needed.

Answer: Check your fuel pressure regulator, remove the vacuum line to check for the presents of fuel. If so, replace fuel pressure regulator with new to repair problem. (note: this is a common problem)

Answer: Check the fuel injectors, if one is shorted it will cause the injector driver to go full open signal. Disconnect the fuel injectors to test resistance across the terminals to located shorted injector. Replace as needed to repair problem.

Answer:   First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present we think you may have shorted an electrical circuit. Check all fuses replace as needed.

Question:  1999 Chevrolet Venture, mileage: 120,000.  Ok...I give up.  I have a degree in Criminal Justice...not auto mechanics.  My car had been having some issues with the ignition. Might have to try it 3-4-5 times before it would "catch" and start.  I thought it may be the solenoid...so I replaced the starter and solenoid unit...it was under warranty.  Then it wouldn't do anything...period. Nothing, no lights, dome light, buzzer on the ignition...nothing.  So I asked around and was told it may be the ignition starter switch...the one you have to drop down the steering column to get too.  Took it to parts store and they tested it with a volt meter and said it was bad...I thought great, finally a reprieve,,,, but no that didn't work either....I'm pulling my hair out!

 Answer: Its sounds like you have positive/negative battery cable that needs replacing. The fact you have no power anywhere tells us that your main power system is non fictional, pointing us to the battery cables.

Question: 1999 Ford F-250, Mileage: 115,000. My truck stumbled due to fuel starvation, and died along the highway in the middle of the Arizona desert last week. Fuel is no longer being delivered to the injection. Fuel pump is new but does not come on when the truck ignition is turned on. All wires going to the pump are in good order. Replaced the fuel pump relay but no help. Put a test light on the relays contacts and found one wire was hot with the ignition on. Cannot find a fused link in the engine compartment and all fuses in the passenger compartment looked OK although I found none marked fuel pump. What is wrong with my truck?

Answer: It sounds like you have a fuel pump that is starting to fail. Test for fuel pressure at the time of failure. Replace fuel pump as needed to repair problem.

Question: 2002 Chevrolet S-10 pick up, miles: 79,000 The Passlock anti-theft deterrent system is malfunctioning. My truck thinks I am trying to steal it. The engine will fire but after 2 seconds, the computer cuts the fuel line to prevent theft. The owner's manual says this is caused by a faulty key or some kind of contaminant in the starter itself. I've tried the manual's way of bypassing this (wait 10 minutes and retry) but, nothing is working. The dealer wants to charge me over $700 when this is all said and done. Have you guys heard about any other ways to bypass this? Matt

Answer:   To reset the pass lock system, turn key on for five minuets, then shut key off for five minuets. then restart normally. If the system resets for no reason you need to replace the anti theft module.

Question: 1999 Chevrolet Corvette, mileage: 130,000. When I start the engine it sounds as if the starter is still engaged and spinning at the same speed as the flywheel and not grinding. Then when I turn the key completely off the engine continues cranking as if I was trying to start it, but the key is completely off. Any ideas? Starter? Relay?

Answer: It appears that you probably have a bad starter and/or solenoid. Replace with new to repair problem.

Question: 1999 Honda Civic, mileage: 151,016. Having just taken the car through an emissions inspection, I found my hydrocarbon outputs a bit too close to the limits, so I felt a tune up was in order. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, both fuel and air filters, some leaking fuel lines that I found in the process, PCV valve, and I changed the oil. Now, the car will not start. I have verified that I have spark from each of the spark plug wires, (By holding a connected spark plug against the valve cover with pliers and cranking the engine.) and the firing order is the same as when the old components were removed. (I made a diagram.) I do have fuel getting to the intake and all vacuum lines are connected where they should be. Compression should not be an issue, because the car ran before I did the tune up. I have checked everything that my Haynes manual has recommended me to try. The PCV valve fits into a socket on the block and a tube leads from a nipple on the PCV valve to the intake manifold. The old valve was dangling from the tube, and not fitted into the socket. I put the new one in correctly, however this should not affect the starting of the engine. I walked to a Honda Dealership and asked a mechanic if there were any other things I should check. (I do have fairly good mechanical knowledge and experience, but it's always good to ask the experts.) I have also tried replacing all the old parts that I removed, including the leaking fuel hoses. There is no way I could have installed the distributor cap or rotor 180 Degrees out of phase, as I have purposely tried to install it wrong. Ether starting spray will not work, nor will cranking with the throttle to the floor. I have let it sit for a few hours with the plugs out to allow any excess gas to evaporate. I am all out of ideas, as is my father, and several mechanic friends.

Answer: It sounds like you may have a timing belt that has failed and needs replacing. Remove the timing belt inspection cover to check.

Question:   1994 Ford F150, mileage: 190,000. Will cold start fine...will not hot start. Replaced the battery, etc. after testing showed bad. But, still did not start and made horrible grinding type noise when the key was turned to start it. Finally got it to start and immediately took it home. After sitting about 1 - 1 1/2 hours it did start but made same noise!

Answer: You may have a faulty starter, replace with new to repair problem.

Question: 2003 Infinity M45 mileage: 50,000. The fuel pump died and I replaced it, Then it was very hard to start and would fuel up quickly and all cylinders. It was drivable if it would start but at about 80% power. Once it ran it would start again without to much trouble but after a day or two it was hard to start (10-15 min of cranking). I replaced Coil, Plugs, Module, MAF; NO Change. I got no codes. I replaced the ECM the car started right up no carbon, 100% power. The third time I started it (30 min total time on new ECM) it stopped dead in its tracks- NO Codes. Next day no start at all- No Codes. Could something be wiping out the RAM in the ECM?

Answer:   First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present we would check the fuel pump.

Question: 1998 Dodge Dakota, mileage: 114,000.  The car is not getting any fuel but has correct fuel pressure to injectors. Car will start after being pulled (about 30 mph), but will not start on its own. Lowest compression is about 65 lbs on two cylinders. Car runs great after being pulled and started. Can you tell us anything - if not, do you have suggestions where to look?

Answer:   First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present we would check the catalytic converter.

Question: 2001 Honda Civic, mileage: 75,000. The fuel pump in my car went out so it was replaced. It still won't start. There's no power to the fuel pump when the ignition switch is on, but when it is at start position there is power to the fuel pump. Are there any inline fuses to the fuel pump that could be the problem, and if so where are they located? There is no power coming from the computer to tell the electrical circuit to run the fuel pump. The electrical circuit has also been replaced.

Answer: There is a good chance the fuel pump has installed incorrectly. Recheck the installation of the fuel pump.

Question: 1995 BMW 325i, mileage: 99,000. Shut this car off one afternoon, but the next morning it would not start; it has been very reliable with no problems. It fired once, then died. I got it started, finally, but it was missing really badly. I shut it off and later tried to start it with no luck. I have done the following: checked for trouble codes. The car cranks over and over, but doesn't fire. Could weak plugs, faulty ignition be my problem? Is there some other module, etc. that I should check? Is there a problem with the valves now? Compression? Your help would be appreciated!

Answer:   First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present we would check the fuel pump.

Question: 2002 Ford Escape, miles: 89,000 We just had the heater core replaced and all of a sudden once that was done, the truck won't start. A friend seems to think the fuel pump isn't working now, as he doesn't hear anything when he turns the ignition on. We were wondering before we replace the pump is there any fuse that could have blown. If we have to replace the fuel pump any idea how much that will cost to do...Grant.

Answer:   Your vehicle is equipped with a fuel cut off safety switch, check that first. Then scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.

Question:   1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mileage: 100,000. Will crank over, but will not start. Has no spark. Added new distributor cap and rotor, still no spark. Checked coil with an ohmmeter and seems ok (0.6 ohm between + and -. 6,500 ohms between + and anode. Infinity to core), suspected the ignition module, but it tested ok at a parts store. Ignition Module was replaced 2 years ago. New plugs and plug wires 1 year ago. What do you think?

First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present we would check the crankshaft sensor.

Question: 1999 Porsche Boxster, miles: 67,000. I was hoping you could help me with a problem I'm having. When I turn the key to start the engine nothing happens, the engine won't turn over. I tried cleaning the battery connections, I changed the ignition switch, checked the neutral safety switch, and it still won't turn over, the starter solenoid doesn't even click. The lights, radio, clock and all the buzzers work and the battery has 12 volts with the headlights on. If you can give me any help with this problem, it would be much appreciated.

Answer: It could be that your immobilizer has malfunctioned. Check the terminals to see if they are corroded. A starter relay powers the starter solenoid which may have failed. Replace starter motor with new to repair problem.

Question:  2001 Ford Focus, mileage: 86,000. A few days ago my brother's Escort broke the timing belt tensioner. We replaced the tensioner and the car ran fine at idle, but when you start to put a load on the engine, it dies. So, we retimed the car. We have the timing as close as we can tell to being perfect. Now the car does not even attempt to start. The engine is getting fuel, the spark plugs are firing. We've been told that this is a non-interference engine, but yesterday a mechanic told us it is an interference engine. Which is right? Is it possible that we bent a valve or are we just still that far out of time? Or, could it be something totally different?

Answer:  It sounds like the timing belt could be off a notch. The best way to check for a bent valve is to do a compression check.

Question:   1996 Ford Crown Victoria, mileage: 115,000. The problem is that the car does not start in the rain. I had this checked out by a professional, and he thought it was the plugs and wires (to the best of my understanding). He replaced all of these and still it does not start. I was wondering if it could be anything else that could be repaired or replaced. The car is no longer worth much, but it is a good car and I would like to get it running again. The cheaper the solution the better.

Answer:   When your car will not start here are some things to have checked: 1. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 2. Check for fuel pressure, 3. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.

Question:   1999 Dodge Durango, mileage: 111,000.  Had a dead battery which we had replaced. Now the aftermarket alarm system will not disengage and we cannot start the car. Can you help?

Answer:   All aftermarket alarm system are not recommenced by all car manufacturers. They are often made from inferior electronics and fail often. Remove the alarm system to repair problem.

Question: 1999 BMW 528i, mileage: 110,000. During the spring/summer/fall, when my car is warmed up to normal operating temp, if I shut it off and let it cool down part way, it doesn't want to start. It acts like it is being choked. If it cools completely, or if it is still at full temperature, it starts fine, but when it has had 20-30 minutes to cool, it acts this way. It will run Very rough, when it does finally start for about 30 seconds to a minute. Any thoughts?

Answer: An internal fuel leak, possibly a fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator, could be causing your problem.  Remove the vacuum line to check for the presence of fuel. If so, replace fuel pressure regulator with new to repair problem. (note: this is a common problem).

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