Answer:   We suspect a faulty fuel pump, or a plugged fuel filter. Check to replace as needed to repair problem.

Question:  1999 Mazda Protege, mileage: 150,000. I brought the car in for servicing because it was running rough, it was not stalling and it had been starting fine. Was told it was in need of a tune-up & fuel injection system clean-up. The day after this service was performed the car started stalling intermittently and at times hesitated when I needed to accelerate. Tried dry gas and filled my tank with a good premium detergent gas, but problem persisted. I then realized I was stalling when I was making right hand turns only. The car would not stall when I made left hand turns. I have brought the car back for servicing and the garage can't find the problem. After the garage checked the fuel system, they started searching for a loose wire that is pulled on when making a right hand turn causing the car to stall. They now say they can't find the problem and is giving up on it. The car is in excellent shape for the year and mileage - to soon to give up. Any suggestions?

Answer:   Your problem is probably caused by a torn rubber air intake boot that flexes when the engine leans as you make a right turn.

Question:   2002 Chevrolet S10 Pickup mileage: 70,000. When my gas tank is less than half full, the truck will not start. If the engine turns over, the truck shakes and sputters and dies. I replaced the fuel filter but the truck will still not start if the gas is less than half a tank. If the truck is running, it will not stall. Once stopped though, the automobile will not crank again though. Do you think that it is the fuel pump or the sending unit?

Answer:   It is probably the fuel pump. Test it by checking the fuel pressure. Also, check the fuel pick-up that is inside the gas tank.

Question:   2002 Nissan Frontier, miles: 89,000. The engine wants to die when stopping. I thought that the lock-up switch for the torque converter was not unlocking. I have installed a used valve body complete with lock-up solenoid and I still have the same problem. I have checked out the wiring going to the solenoid and it does make a circuit when the throttle is at idle. Note: the engine does not try to die in reverse, only in forward.

Answer:   When the transmission is put into reverse, the engine has a tendency to shift one direction and the opposite direction in drive. With this in mind, check over wiring and vacuum hoses.

Question: 2002 Chrysler 300M mileage: 89,000. I have an intermittent stalling problem. There doesn't seem to be a pattern of heat or acceleration etc, to cause the stall. Typically though it is during cruise speeds and once every 30 to 50 miles. The engine will quit immediately and completely. Initially I could restart during coast in neutral. Now the problem is more frequent and requires time before a restart. I suspect fuel starvation. After sitting for 5 to 20 minutes it will start again and run normally. A Precision Tune shop did all the checks and found nothing wrong and could not recreate the problem. Within the next 30 miles of driving it failed twice. A friend describes a similar experience with a '96 Chrysler mini-van which was fixed with a new fuel pump. Any connection here? I have replaced the fuel filter already with no change.

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check for spark at the spark plugs. If okay, then your problem is probably due to a faulty fuel pump.

Question: 1997 Acura Integra 1.8L DOHC 4 cyl mileage: 66,000. I live in the NYC borough of Staten Island and have a 1990 Integra with 66,000 miles on it. I maintain it in accordance with the owner's manual. It's been quite reliable until recently. Three months ago while driving on a highway, the tach suddenly dropped to zero for a few seconds, but the engine continued turning and no warning lights cane on. The tachometer then came back up. I thought it was a fluke. A month later driving in heavy traffic on an expressway, the check engine light came on; Rpms dropped off, and shortly after the engine quit. After a short while, thinking perhaps the transmission had gone, not the engine, I started it up and drove it to the Firestone service center - the nearest Acura dealer is over the bridge in Brooklyn. After seeing, the transmission was fine. Firestone thought it was a fluke, as they did not replicate the stalling. I had the car tuned up, fuel filter and oil changed. A month later, the tachometer again dropped down, I gave it the gas and it went back up. As I slowed for a light, the Rpms again dropped, the check engine light came on, and shortly after, the car again quit. When I tried to restart it, the engine turned over but would not fire. I called for a tow. After waiting about 30 minutes, I tried it and it started. After it was towed to, Firestone They did a computerized engine analysis and said the engine control module was not showing any bad codes and it was fine. They determined the distributor assembly had to be replaced, as it not giving a spark. They said the igniter in it was bad. They also flushed the fuel injection system. I drove the car on a trip of 100 miles and it was fine. A week later on another trip to New Jersey, on the return the same sequence occurred - check engine light, low Rpms and then the engine died. Again, I was not able to restart it. While waiting for the tow, after leaving the engine off for an hour, it would restart. Firestone tried to duplicate the problem for two days with no luck. As the distributor had been rebuilt, they thought that the replacement had a bad coil, as the problem seemed heat related. However, they couldn't explain why I drove 100 miles problem free. They replaced the distributor assembly. I drove it home, but am now afraid to drive it thinking it might be something else and cold strands me again. I don't know whether I should just have it towed to Acura and have them charge a fortune to see if they can figure something. It's so frustrating thinking the car may die at any minute if the distributor was not the source of the problem.

Answer:   We have worked on cars with similar problems. Replacing the distributor and ignition coil was the fix.

Question: 2000 Volkswagen Cabriole, mileage 22,000. One week ago, the problem began. I started the engine and noticed that the brake light and ABS light remained on and illuminated. I continued to drive approximately one mile when I also noticed that the air conditioner would not work. There was no power with the A/C of any kind. The blowers didn't work and it was if the car had no power for the switches to work. I immediately pulled the car over to the side of the road. As soon as the car was stopped and in park the car completely shut down and stalled. I immediately started the car again and the lights, this time, did not come on and the air conditioner worked. I made a note to myself to bring it to the dealership for a valuation and possible repairs. Over the period of 5 days between the time it first happened and the day I was able to make an appointment the same problem occurred approximately 6-8 more times. I have noted that when this happens it can be a various times during the day both when the car engine is cold and hot. Two days ago, I had the vehicle in for repairs at the dealership. I was informed that there was nothing wrong with the vehicle nor nothing they could find wrong with it. I was advised to bring the vehicle back if I notice the problem again. Well, I informed the service manager that was hard to do as when the problem occurs the engine stalls. After picking up my car two days ago, the problem did occur again. This time, upon starting the engine I noticed the lights on yet again with now power for the A/C. As I was about to take it back to the dealership, I put the car in reverse and attempted to drive when the car stalled. I started the car again, the lights went off, and the car appeared fine. According to the Volkswagen dealership, service department there is nothing wrong with my 2000 Volkswagen Cabriole or nothing they can locate and repair. I'm not sure whether or not you have any information on Volkswagen but if you do, I would greatly appreciate any information you can provide.

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we your problem could be cause by a failing main power relay, poor ground connections, loose power wire connections, or a faulty battery or alternator. Also, check the wiring looms for damage.

Question: 2001 Chevrolet Express Van, mileage: 90,000. Changed plugs, wires, pvc valve, fuel filter, and oil last month. Plugs I took out were gapped wrong (according to manual), so I gapped to specifications. Car ran fine, but burned a lot of gas. I asked the previous owner, he said that the shop that rebuilt the engine had gapped the plugs before, and that it ran fine. I removed all of the plugs, regapped to previous gap, and put them back in. It ran fine, until the weather changed. The temperature dropped about 40 degrees, and the car ran rough, then died while my wife was driving it. She got it started, and it seemed ok. I drove it later that day, and it seemed sluggish. The next morning (it snowed) I started without problems, let it warm up for a minute or two, then drove it down the street, where it died. I tried restarting it, but couldn't. It turns over;  I pulled a plug wire, and have a spark. I replaced the rotor and distributor cap, and had the coil and ignition module tested. I pulled the plug, and it was soaked with gasoline. I tried a couple more, and they are all soaked. The only thing I can think of to do next is to take it to someone to fix, but was hoping you might have a suggestion. Any help would be great.

Answer:   First test if the injector signal is full output, if ok It sounds like you have some fuel injectors that need replacing.

Question: 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan, mileage: 68,000. After high speed driving, the problem is spells (usually warmer weather) of rough running, dies (e.g., after stopping at toll booths), won't up shift without winding way out, noticeable loss of power. Acts like ECM is compensating for a problem--or maybe losing its grounds. Seems clear this only happens when high engine compartment temperatures are reached. Always goes away when engine cools a little or sometimes when it's not cooler--just goes away. Spells last 10-15 minutes or so. It runs perfectly around town. I have replaced coil, plugs, wires, fuel filter, fuel press regulator, ECM, Tranny ECM, O2 sensor, EGR valve. Fuel pressure is good and holding, vacuum normal for all conditions. Went to dealer who ran diagnostics to no avail. Dealer agrees it seems electrical and high temperature related. They tried improving a few "suspicious" grounds at firewall then idled it for 4 hours and drove it 100 miles. Naturally, it ran fine. My next trip 5 hours out it happened again. Am think of adding a ground to the PCM--would you suggest which lead to ground (I have the factory manual)? Any other ideas would be much appreciated. What sequence of electrical (or other) checking would make sense at this point? Can you suggest a way to recreate or test short of driving 5 hwy? Hours?

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check for spark at the spark plugs. If okay, then your problem is probably due to a faulty fuel pump.

Question: 1998 Mitsubishi Montero mileage: 146,000. I have a very high mileage (146K) Mitsubishi truck that just recently developed a problem. It seems to jerk like it is struggling or missing at times. This occurs only occasionally maybe 3 or 4 times a day during a 40-mile day of in town driving running errands. It happens at cruising speeds or under load going up hill usually in the afternoon. The symptoms usually last for 4 or 5 seconds and disappear after changing gears or engine rpm. If I mash on the gas pedal during the jerking, it makes it worse and it will not accelerate and the back and forth jerking motion gets worse but it usually clears up after letting up on the gas. The engine runs fine at idle, starts up fine, and even though the engine is tired, it has reasonable acceleration. I initially thought the ignition coil was arching so I replaced that along with the spark plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, cap and rotor. It almost feels like there is an electrical problem the way it jerks back and forth and will not accelerate during the 4 or 5 seconds it does this despite pressing the accelerator. It will only happen 3 or 4 times per 40 miles or so but it getting worse. Any ideas? I hate to keep throwing parts at the problem. Maybe it's just worn out and I need to buy a new truck?

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check for spark at the spark plugs. If okay, then your problem is probably due to a faulty fuel pump.

Question: 1999 Ford Ranger, mileage: 162,000. The engine of my Ranger shuts off. Most of the time, it works fine, but sometimes, after a stop, it just shuts off when I accelerate away. Sometimes I can get it started again right away, sometimes it won't start at all and it acts flooded. It also shuts off sometimes on the freeway, when I'm accelerating after changing gears. Sometimes it kicks back in right away, sometimes I have to pull over to the side of the road and wait. It always starts again eventually, but it can take anywhere from a few minutes to a couple of hours. I called Ford and they said I don't have the right serial number to be included in the recall on ignition coils. My regular mechanic can't reproduce the problem. Another mechanic thought it might be spark plug wires, but my regular mechanic disagrees. I am at wit's end. What do you recommend?

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check for spark at the spark plugs. If okay, then your problem is probably due to a faulty fuel pump.

Question: 1998 Honda Accord mileage: 145,000. My engine keeps cutting off. First, the odometer drops to zero (while on a highway), but the car keeps running for a few minutes and then the engine dies. I put the car in neutral and coast for about a minute, and can restart the car. Yesterday on the highway, the engine would cut off every 40 minutes. Where should I look for a problem? As an added note, I was driving too fast and jumped a dip. I brought my car to a local shop who replaced the distributor, two days later; I had to buy a new battery.

Answer:   Check the ignition coil on your car as we have found they have a tendency to short out and need to be replaced.

Question: 1996 Chevrolet Celebrity, mileage: 194,000. One day I was driving down the road and all of a sudden, I lost power in my car; the only way to keep the car running was to have the gas pedal pressed down. My car still has the same problem and it surges. However, some days I can drive the car just fine and the next day I cannot get out of my driveway. Scanners pick up no codes and 4 mechanics have looked at my car, even a tune-up specialist. The computer has been replaced but not the PROM - new oxygen sensor - new coolant sensor - EGR replaced - no vacuum leaks - new fuel filter - gas tank cleaned, but the pump was not replaced - a used, but working Throttle Body has been put in - the Fuel Pump pressure and volume has been checked, but only when the car is running fine. One mechanic thinks it's the PROM and the other thinks it is the Fuel Pump. I have spent over $500 on my car; I would GREATLY APPRECIATE your help and advice. Pablo

Answer:   You must determine if your engine will not start because of lack of fuel or lack of spark. If fuel is the problem, check the fuel pump, pressure etc. If no spark, check the coil, distributor, 12 volts to the coil, etc. From what you describe, we would guess it is your fuel pump.

Question:   1997 Ford Explorer, mileage: 92,000. My Ford runs great on the street. Two weeks ago, I went 4-wheeling and after 2-3 hours, the Bronco died and wouldn't run. It was a 92-degree day and I was climbing up the side of a small mountain in 4-wheel-low drive. After about a 2-hour wait (to see if cooling down will help) I started the Bronco and went down the mountain and drove 25 miles home. I changed the fuel filter and thinking I had solved the problem, I went 4-wheeling again the next day in a different spot. Again, after about 2-hours+ of 4-wheeling the truck started missing and died. Again, a 2-hour rest for the Bronco eliminated the problem. When I took the Bronco to the dealer, the mechanic told me that he could not reproduce the problem in the shop and he would guess that the in-tank fuel pump should be considered the problem. I have a Jacobs Electronics coil and mileage master module ignition system in the Bronco and the dealer Mechanic could not run diagnostics on the Ignition system and did not want to speculate about a non-Ford part. I always keep my eye on the temperature gauge and on the first Bronco stalling event I did notice that the truck was running hotter than I have ever seen the gauge indicate, but it was still within the normal operation lines. On the second event, the gauge indicated normal engine temperature operation. I would appreciate any ideas you could share with me about the Bronco problem. Thanks.

Answer: When the engine dies during your off-road adventures, check for spark and for fuel to find out what is causing your no start problem. Obviously one or the other is failing.

Question: 1999 Ford Explorer XLT mileage: 116,000. Occasionally (seemingly as a random occurrence) my vehicle will not start. The engine cranks, but it will not turnover--that is, unless I give it gas. At this point, while I am still giving the car gas, the car seems to run fine. No warning lights come on, everything in the car functions properly, no strange noises can be heard, etc. However, as soon as I remove my foot from the gas, it stalls immediately. I can usually get the car to start and remain started after about 1/2 an hour of going through this process off and on. Of course, since this is a random, but somewhat common occurrence, this never happens when the car is at the service station. Therefore, the dealership has told me that they can't fix the problem if they don't know (or understand) what is wrong. I thought you could help me out so I could tell them what the problem is. I've heard that this site is good for giving advice so I came to you when my dealership has failed me. Please let me know what you think about my problem. Thanks for your help!

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would replace the idle speed control motor. If it is hanging up or slow reacting, it may not set a fault code in the computer.

Question:   1999 Ford F150, mileage: 74,700. The truck will start but soon acts like it is loosing fuel pressure. I have checked the ECC (relay) and inspected the two fuel pumps and changed the fuel filter. There is a humming noise coming from a cylindrical device located in front of the fuel filter. What is this device? Is it a pressure regulator and if not where is it? It sounds as if this part is starting to wear out. The truck behaves worse as the fuel lowers in each tank or when the truck is on an incline. The truck recently stopped on me when I let the gas level get to about 5-8 gallons in each tank. I carried an additional 5 gallons back for each tank. It still had trouble starting. I happen to think to spray starting fluid into the intake and the truck started right up. It ran good for about five miles and now I'm back to square one.

Answer:   We have seen similar problems on other Ford trucks that we have fixed by replacing both fuel pumps in both tanks.

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