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Car Engine Stalls and Poor Engine Running Questions
This
category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question:
1999 Volkswagen Cabriolet, mileage: 130,000. Manual
shift. Frequently after driving in stop and go traffic
or after prolonged periods of driving, the fuel pump
begins to whine noisily. Shortly after that, the front
end jolts violently a couple of seconds after being
after being shifted into another gear. Frequently after
that, the engine stalls. The car starts easily after it
stalls but within a minute I'm in the same boat. The
fuel pump has been replaced twice on the advice of my
mechanic and the engine mounts have also been replaced
but I still get the same symptoms -- whining loudly
before the jolting and stalling. The whining and
stalling leads me to believe it's a fuel pump problem
but the front end jolting makes me think I may have to
replace the clutch also. Any suggestions?
Answer:
Your car should be equipped with a second fuel pump that
is located inside the fuel tank. This pump pushes the
fuel to the main fuel pump. If the pump in the tank
fails, it will cause the problem you described.
Question: 1999 Toyota Camry,
mileage: 89,000. My car started stalling out and became
EXTREMELY hard to start. I took it to our EXCELLENT
service shop (I trust them very much) and they replaced
the ignition coil and igniter at a cost of about
$765.00. About 3 weeks later it stalled and needed
towing and it was the coil that had gone out. About 2
weeks ago, the same thing happened except they
determined that the igniter is taking the coil out, so
they replaced that again. All of this is under warranty
so I don't feel too bad, but now it stalled out again,
in the same manner. Are they just getting bad parts or
is there something that could continue to take out the
coil and the igniter on a regular basis. This will be
the 4th coil and 3rd igniter. Thanks much for any clues.
Answer: First
scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held
engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present
we would
suggest a fuel pump check.
Question: 1997 Ford
Explorer,mileage: 165,000. I just recently
replaced the heads as the person I purchased it from had
ran it too hot and the exhaust manifolds actually
shrank, pulled, and cracked the heads. Anyway, prior to
rebuilding, the car would occasionally die while
driving. In every instance, I would crank on it for a
few and it would restart. It also seemed to run very
rich and I had assumed it was a fuel problem. During the
rebuild, I also replaced the ignition module and the
coil thinking this may be part of the problem. Well upon
completion, the car started and now runs for 5 minutes
or so and then shuts down. I still thought it was the
spark plugs . I tried again and still the same thing.
Just this last weekend I used a mirror to determine if
gas was entering the chamber - it was, even after it
died. I'm now guessing there is a problem with the
electrical system somewhere but don't know where to
start. Any ideas? Would a vacuum problem make it die so
abruptly and not let it restart. I returned a few days
later it will always start and run for a few. Here's
some additional info regarding the unit - It originally
had all the smog/air pump equipment, however, the new
heads I installed did not have the outlets at the back
end, so I have removed. I would really appreciate your
assistance, as I am getting anxious to get the thing on
the road. I've been messing with it on and off now for
three months and starting to lose patience.
Answer: First
scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as
needed. If no codes are present we would
check for spark at the spark plugs. If okay, then your
problem is probably due to a faulty fuel pump.
Question: 1999 Buick Park Avenue,
mileage: 104,000. I have an intermittent problem that
does not seem associated to temperature, environment,
and is most visible at highway speeds but also happens
at idle occasionally. The engine ignition seems to die
and the car hesitates and bucks. This can be seen in the
tachometer, which briefly starts falling to zero. Also,
when the problem occurs, the ammeter drops down and
slowly returns. After the problem occurs, the MIL will
illuminate the next time the car is started but can be
turned off by killing the engine and restarting it. With
an
Actron code reading tool, I found 2 codes in the
system. They are 321 and 361. The scanner said that 321
is "18x interrupts/ignition" and 361 is "EST not
toggling". Studying the wiring diagram shows that an EST
signal goes into the ignition module and that the EST
signal uses the crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor as
reference signals. I replaced the crankshaft sensor and
then the ignition module but the problem is still there.
Any help would be appreciated
Answer: It sounds like have a
crank angle sensor that is weak and needs replacing.
Question: 1999 Volvo S60 Turbo,
mileage: 61,500. My car lost pressure when accelerating
and started to putter then stalled out and I had it
towed. The dealership told me that they could not
duplicate the problem and I picked it up. The next day,
I drove about 15-miles, filled the tank and the car lost
pressure when accelerating, putted then stalled out. I
had it towed to the dealership and they could not
duplicate the problem. Today, they still have not
identified the problem. I was told that they replace the
CPU, but that was not the problem. Then I was told that
I needed to replace my rotor button, distributor caps,
and spark plug wires. I need your help.
Answer: First
scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held
engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present
Intermittent problems are difficult to trace. From what
you have described, we would start by replacing the fuel
pump and filter.
Question: 1993 Dodge Caravan 3.3
mileage: 145,000. Driving to work the car just died like
it was out of gas. Towed it home, compression tested
cylinders, mechanic friend did a computer check showed
no errors, tested it myself to get codes, only 12 and
55. Bought computer brain box and replaced it, its
getting spark and gas but NOW it starts and won't run or
be idle. It really only runs when its floored. It starts
with the gas pedal to the floor but won't stay
running...now it ca-thunks loudly unless I'm flooring
it.
Answer: Check the fuel
pressure regulator for a failed diaphragm, remove the
vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and check
for the presents of fuel.
Question: 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer
mileage: 189,652. My speedometer kicks out and my engine
check light comes on causing my S-10 to occasionally
stall. When I restart the engine, it surges and then
runs smoothly. The speedometer turns off and comes back
on minutes later and at that moment the car stalls. When
I restart the engine, it runs fine. This is happening on
a regular basis.
Answer: First
scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held
engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present
check the vehicle speed sensor as it may have failed.
Question: 1999 Saturn SL1, mileage:
137,000. Hi, This will be long, sorry! We have been
having intermittent starting/stalling problems with our
Saturn for the past year. January 2002, the head gasket
was replaced due to a leak, new spark plugs and wires
were installed, tensioner belt was replaced (needed to
be - it was loose and making a noise upon cold start).
Since then the car occasionally stalls at idle or will
not start, and sometimes when we start the car, the dash
lights come on, but no dinging noise (especially after
driving short distances (~15km) and getting gas. A trip
to the dealer resulted in no error codes on the
computer, and they could not reproduce the problem, but
they did replace the crankshaft position sensor, which
did nothing but drain my wallet! Now the problem is more
severe. Occasionally while driving (town or highway) the
speedometer drops from current speed to ~10km then back
up. After this happened a few times, I had my dealer put
the car on the computer - same story - no error codes
and a test drive did not reproduce the problem. Now it
is getting worse and more consistent (once a day instead
of once a week, sometimes more). Sometimes the car
jerks/shudders, sometimes not. When it does jerk,
odometer and speedometer bottom out, the air bag light
flashes and then the car resumes normal operation. I do
not know anything about cars, but I would like a heads
up as to what may be the problem, I feel like I am being
jerked around by my dealer. I have heard the phrase "no
error codes were found" way too often, when something is
DEFINITELY wrong.
Answer: First
scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as
needed. If no codes are present
a vehicle speed sensor and an amplifier for the signal
that comes from the vehicle speed sensor.
Question: 1998 Pontiac Bonneville
supercharge mileage: 104,000. Symptoms only occur when
high ambient temperature (above 90 degrees). After
driving for a while, especially on the highway, I
experience the following symptoms 1. Engine will idle
fine, 2. Car will not accelerate past idle and will
occasionally stall when trying to accelerate, 3. Has
OBDI but no check engine light comes on, 4. Have
replaced fuel filter, 5. If it occurs while moving you
can retain speed at partial throttle but acceleration
causes stumbling and feeling of lost fuel pressure.
Answer: Check to see that the
catalytic converters are not partially plugged. Also,
check the boost pressure on the super charger.
Question: 1998 Chevy Lumina,
mileage: 106,000. Engine runs great sometimes, other
times idles rough and after acceleration engine will not
idle back down almost as if the throttle is stuck at
about 1800 rpm. As you slow down using the brake and
coming to a complete stop, engine continues to run at
high rpm until suddenly it will idle back down and begin
to idle very rough again at about 700 rpm. Then
sometimes, with no particular pattern, the engine will
settle down and begin to operate normally again. As long
as you continue to drive it after it settles down it
runs fine. If you stop and shut off the engine for a few
minutes and start it, again the whole process starts
over with rough idle and high rpm when driving. I have
changed the following parts with no improvement: map
sensor, oxygen sensor, spark plugs, pcv valve, idle air
control valve, throttle position sensor. I have checked
trouble codes and I get an error 33 (map sensor low
vacuum, high voltage) and error 44 (oxygen sensor lean
exhaust) but these codes appear I think as a result,
rather than the cause, of the very rough idle. I have
run out of things to try. Can you help? Thanks
Answer: First
scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as
needed. If no codes are present
check for a plugged catalytic converter.
Question: 1999 Plymouth Voyager
mileage: 80,000. Intermittent stalling (becoming less
intermittent as time goes by) when slowing down to a
stop. No problems at all on the highway etc. but in town
it is a nightmare. At every stop sign, the car stalls.
It starts right up again and then will stall at the next
stop. It doesn't happen every day. For a while, it
seemed to happen only when the tank had just been topped
off. Recently happened again at half a tank. I've
replaced the fuel filter, and had the fuel injection
system cleaned. What next? Fuel pump?
Answer: Check the idle speed
motor, as it may not be functioning properly. Also,
check the engine for vacuum leaks.
Question: 1999 Mercedes Benz C230,
mileage: 112,000. Bob and Ken, I am not sure what is
going on with my car. I'll be driving down the road for
about 45 minutes or so and then, out of the blue my car
starts sputtering and shuts off on me. If I let it sit
for about a minute, it will allow me to go for about a
mile. If I allow it to sit for a longer period of time,
it will run longer. The car is fine on short trips but
it keeps doing this after 30 minutes of driving. My
dealer told me it was the radiator and I let them
replace it but it didn't do any good and it ended up
costing me $600 for a non-Mercedes radiator. Would it be
an oxygen sensor? P.S. This car has been really good to
me over the years and this is the first major problem
with it in over 90,000 miles. Thanks
Answer: First
scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as
needed. If no codes are present,
from what you described, your problem could be the fuel
pump, the ignition switch, or the main engine controller
possessor.
Question: 1999 Chevy S-10, mileage:
127,600. My vehicle stalls during warm-up; and at normal
operating temperature when A/C is switched on. Oil
pressure gauge reacts and drops during A/C operation and
vehicle stalls at full stop (red light, stop sign,
etc.). Service performed: Replaced: Air filter, Dist.
cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, oil pressure
sending unit, EGR valve-to-manifold gasket, fuel filter,
PCV valve, and battery. Checks: THERMAC (check failed:
door inside snorkel locked open); vacuum hoses, heat
stove tube, TBI mounting bolts, metal hose fitting from
A/C accumulator to rear of manifold shows corrosion at
the manifold end. ALL tune-up and maintenance required
by owner's manual has been performed and is up-to-date.
Could a faulty THERMAC air temperature sensor cause
these problems? Have I missed something?
Answer: First
scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held
engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present
try replacing the idle air control motor.
Question: 1998 Chevrolet Impala
mileage: 116,000. We just got this Chevy. It has a multi
port. It ran fine until last week. It lost power when
hot, it ran rough and would not hold speed, when I
pressed the gas pedal to the floor. Then when I turned
it off it would not start. We let it sit over night and
it started and ran for a while then the same thing
happened. I changed the fuel filter, no change. I
purchased a fuel pressure gage and ran a check on the
fuel pressure. The gage read 20 psi with the key on,
then 35 to 40 psi when it started. The book calls for 40
to 47 psi. The next day when it would not start. I put
the pressure gauge back on the car when it was hot and
got what looked like air coming out of the bleed line of
the gauge. Then the car started. I keep the bleed valve
pressed and still saw what looked like air coming out of
the bleed valve, and the gas was hot. Could this be
vapor lock and how do I cure it. I checked the computer
codes and showed nothing but 12.
Answer: Check the fuel pump
intake located inside the gas tank, as it may be loose
allowing air to be picked up into the pump.
Question: 1999 Toyota 4Runner
mileage: 86,000. Occasional loss of power ending in
stall. Roadside fix was to move + battery terminal leads
resulting in restoration of power. I later changed
terminal leads as well as cleaned the virtually
corrosion free battery leads. In the process I also took
a volt meter to all fusible links under hood and in the
interior to be sure all points where getting juice. To
no avail, I still have the same deal. The bad part is
that now I have a new prob. no brake lights thus
enabling me to shift from "p" to anything. HAYNES book
has no pointers in trouble shooting on this nor do they
have a fuse panel configuration diagram. "Owners book
you say." I'm the 2nd owner and never had one. "Should
be diagramed on the interior fuse panel door." I imagine
the owner's book and the fuse door are in the same
place, with the 1st owner whoever that might be. I have
scanned the web looking for the fuse diagram but no
luck. I wonder if these prob. are one in the same. The
stalling prob. seems to be activated by applying brakes,
no sounds of engine failure no sputtering no chugging.
At night when headlamps are on, I will apply brakes if
the truck doesn't have a power failure and stall, the
lights flicker and dim slightly.
Answer: From what you tell us,
it sounds like you may be having trouble with your
charging system. Have your battery load tested and check
the alternator output for voltage and amperage. Also,
check your electrical system for a voltage draw with the
engine off.
Question: 2003 Acura CL 3.2
Type-S, mileage: 30,000. My car has no aftermarket parts
on it. Recently I ran into a problem with it. When the
engine rpm reaches around 3000 rpm, the engine
hesitates. Then the check engine light comes on and then
engine will not rev past 3000 rpm. It sounds like there
is a rev limiter kicking in. This first happened on the
freeway a day ago. When this happened I was forced to
pull over. The engine will run in this condition below
3000 rpm with no abnormal noise or roughness. When this
happened to my car, I was in the middle of nowhere. So,
I was forced to drive a couple miles to a gas station. I
kept below 3000 rpm. When I arrived at the gas station,
I opened the hood and saw the exhaust manifold to the
cat glowing orange. I thought that perhaps the cat was
plugged. But unfortunately after trying several things
to find the problem today, I was not able to do so. I
also have a code 4, which is crank angle sensor. I have
checked the crank sensor the way that All Data says to
and it checked out ok. Perhaps you can help me out. This
doesn't make sense to me.
Answer: The problem you
described would indicate the engine is running too rich.
Check the fuel pressure regulator and also the fuel
injectors to see that they are not leaking. Also, check
for a plugged exhaust system especially the catalytic
converter and the air supply controls for the converter.
Question: 1999 Ford Focus, mileage:
122,000. Hi There Bob & Ken, I've been searching the
Internet for a couple of months now in the hope of
finding a solution to a problem I'm having with my car .
. . but without success. The problem occurs only on
"first" starts on cold and/or wet mornings and is as
follows: The engine always fires up without fuss and
initially it runs perfectly at idle. The tick-over is
slightly faster than on subsequent "warm" starts, so the
auto choke is definitely "coming on". There is no sign
of any misfire at this stage. The car pulls away and
drives ok at first. But when I bring it to a halt, at a
road junction just a quarter of a mile along the road
from my home, the engine either cuts out immediately I
dip the clutch - or it begins to misfire, and then it
dies. If I get through the junction without having to
stop the car, there's a period when the misfire causes
reduced power and rough running, but this lasts only a
very short distance before returning to normal running.
When the engine does cut out, the re-start is always
instantaneous and driving carries on perfectly normally
from then on - with the tick-over slightly increased,
indicating that the auto choke is still (back?) on. I
have replaced the plugs and the HT leads without any
change in the situation and I've almost convinced myself
that the problem is caused by the auto choke cutting out
too soon. But that wouldn't cause the misfire would it?
Or is it the misfire that's causing the problem in the
first place? I've had the car in three repair shops,
with the express intention of getting this fault cured.
And, although all have been aware of this problem's
existence, nevertheless no one has yet been able to
effect a cure. It recently passed its MOT with flying
colors so the catalytic converter must be doing its job
ok by the way. The car is perfectly adequate in all
other aspects, including performance and mpg, the
average being around 40 mpg from being new to the
present time. I would be most grateful to hear what you
think the problem is being caused by - and just as
importantly what I can do to cure it (it's driving me
mad!) Tony
Answer: This is a difficult
problem to detect because the computer can not sense a
malfunction, the vehicles computer system thinks
everything is ok. In reality what is happening is the
electrical component inside the
MAF sensor becomes contaminated by air impurities.
These containments imbed themselves to the electrical
component that senses the air flow causing the sensor to
be slightly off, but not enough to trigger the MIL
(malfunction indicator lamp). Replace the
MAF sensor with a new. NOTE: (Mass Air Flow MAF
sensor or Air Intake Sensor AIS, depending on
manufacturer. It does the same thing only with different
names). 
Repair Topics / Stalls / Stalls-1 / Stalls-2 / Stalls-3 / Stalls-4 / Stalls-5 / Stalls-6 / Stalls-7 / Stalls -8
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