Answer:   Your car should be equipped with a second fuel pump that is located inside the fuel tank. This pump pushes the fuel to the main fuel pump. If the pump in the tank fails, it will cause the problem you described.

Question: 1999 Toyota Camry, mileage: 89,000. My car started stalling out and became EXTREMELY hard to start. I took it to our EXCELLENT service shop (I trust them very much) and they replaced the ignition coil and igniter at a cost of about $765.00. About 3 weeks later it stalled and needed towing and it was the coil that had gone out. About 2 weeks ago, the same thing happened except they determined that the igniter is taking the coil out, so they replaced that again. All of this is under warranty so I don't feel too bad, but now it stalled out again, in the same manner. Are they just getting bad parts or is there something that could continue to take out the coil and the igniter on a regular basis. This will be the 4th coil and 3rd igniter. Thanks much for any clues.

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would suggest a fuel pump check.

Question: 1997 Ford Explorer,mileage: 165,000.  I just recently replaced the heads as the person I purchased it from had ran it too hot and the exhaust manifolds actually shrank, pulled, and cracked the heads. Anyway, prior to rebuilding, the car would occasionally die while driving. In every instance, I would crank on it for a few and it would restart. It also seemed to run very rich and I had assumed it was a fuel problem. During the rebuild, I also replaced the ignition module and the coil thinking this may be part of the problem. Well upon completion, the car started and now runs for 5 minutes or so and then shuts down. I still thought it was the spark plugs . I tried again and still the same thing. Just this last weekend I used a mirror to determine if gas was entering the chamber - it was, even after it died. I'm now guessing there is a problem with the electrical system somewhere but don't know where to start. Any ideas? Would a vacuum problem make it die so abruptly and not let it restart. I returned a few days later it will always start and run for a few. Here's some additional info regarding the unit - It originally had all the smog/air pump equipment, however, the new heads I installed did not have the outlets at the back end, so I have removed. I would really appreciate your assistance, as I am getting anxious to get the thing on the road. I've been messing with it on and off now for three months and starting to lose patience.

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check for spark at the spark plugs. If okay, then your problem is probably due to a faulty fuel pump.

Question: 1999 Buick Park Avenue, mileage: 104,000. I have an intermittent problem that does not seem associated to temperature, environment, and is most visible at highway speeds but also happens at idle occasionally. The engine ignition seems to die and the car hesitates and bucks. This can be seen in the tachometer, which briefly starts falling to zero. Also, when the problem occurs, the ammeter drops down and slowly returns. After the problem occurs, the MIL will illuminate the next time the car is started but can be turned off by killing the engine and restarting it. With an Actron code reading tool, I found 2 codes in the system. They are 321 and 361. The scanner said that 321 is "18x interrupts/ignition" and 361 is "EST not toggling". Studying the wiring diagram shows that an EST signal goes into the ignition module and that the EST signal uses the crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor as reference signals. I replaced the crankshaft sensor and then the ignition module but the problem is still there. Any help would be appreciated

Answer:  It sounds like have a crank angle sensor that is weak and needs replacing.

Question: 1999 Volvo S60 Turbo, mileage: 61,500. My car lost pressure when accelerating and started to putter then stalled out and I had it towed. The dealership told me that they could not duplicate the problem and I picked it up. The next day, I drove about 15-miles, filled the tank and the car lost pressure when accelerating, putted then stalled out. I had it towed to the dealership and they could not duplicate the problem. Today, they still have not identified the problem. I was told that they replace the CPU, but that was not the problem. Then I was told that I needed to replace my rotor button, distributor caps, and spark plug wires. I need your help.

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present Intermittent problems are difficult to trace. From what you have described, we would start by replacing the fuel pump and filter.

Question: 1993 Dodge Caravan 3.3 mileage: 145,000. Driving to work the car just died like it was out of gas. Towed it home, compression tested cylinders, mechanic friend did a computer check showed no errors, tested it myself to get codes, only 12 and 55. Bought computer brain box and replaced it, its getting spark and gas but NOW it starts and won't run or be idle. It really only runs when its floored. It starts with the gas pedal to the floor but won't stay running...now it ca-thunks loudly unless I'm flooring it.

Answer: Check the fuel pressure regulator for a failed diaphragm, remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and check for the presents of fuel.

Question: 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer mileage: 189,652. My speedometer kicks out and my engine check light comes on causing my S-10 to occasionally stall. When I restart the engine, it surges and then runs smoothly. The speedometer turns off and comes back on minutes later and at that moment the car stalls. When I restart the engine, it runs fine. This is happening on a regular basis.

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present check the vehicle speed sensor as it may have failed.

Question: 1999 Saturn SL1, mileage: 137,000. Hi, This will be long, sorry! We have been having intermittent starting/stalling problems with our Saturn for the past year. January 2002, the head gasket was replaced due to a leak, new spark plugs and wires were installed, tensioner belt was replaced (needed to be - it was loose and making a noise upon cold start). Since then the car occasionally stalls at idle or will not start, and sometimes when we start the car, the dash lights come on, but no dinging noise (especially after driving short distances (~15km) and getting gas. A trip to the dealer resulted in no error codes on the computer, and they could not reproduce the problem, but they did replace the crankshaft position sensor, which did nothing but drain my wallet! Now the problem is more severe. Occasionally while driving (town or highway) the speedometer drops from current speed to ~10km then back up. After this happened a few times, I had my dealer put the car on the computer - same story - no error codes and a test drive did not reproduce the problem. Now it is getting worse and more consistent (once a day instead of once a week, sometimes more). Sometimes the car jerks/shudders, sometimes not. When it does jerk, odometer and speedometer bottom out, the air bag light flashes and then the car resumes normal operation. I do not know anything about cars, but I would like a heads up as to what may be the problem, I feel like I am being jerked around by my dealer. I have heard the phrase "no error codes were found" way too often, when something is DEFINITELY wrong.

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present a vehicle speed sensor and an amplifier for the signal that comes from the vehicle speed sensor.

Question: 1998 Pontiac Bonneville supercharge mileage: 104,000. Symptoms only occur when high ambient temperature (above 90 degrees). After driving for a while, especially on the highway, I experience the following symptoms 1. Engine will idle fine, 2. Car will not accelerate past idle and will occasionally stall when trying to accelerate, 3. Has OBDI but no check engine light comes on, 4. Have replaced fuel filter, 5. If it occurs while moving you can retain speed at partial throttle but acceleration causes stumbling and feeling of lost fuel pressure.

Answer:   Check to see that the catalytic converters are not partially plugged. Also, check the boost pressure on the super charger.

Question: 1998 Chevy Lumina, mileage: 106,000. Engine runs great sometimes, other times idles rough and after acceleration engine will not idle back down almost as if the throttle is stuck at about 1800 rpm. As you slow down using the brake and coming to a complete stop, engine continues to run at high rpm until suddenly it will idle back down and begin to idle very rough again at about 700 rpm. Then sometimes, with no particular pattern, the engine will settle down and begin to operate normally again. As long as you continue to drive it after it settles down it runs fine. If you stop and shut off the engine for a few minutes and start it, again the whole process starts over with rough idle and high rpm when driving. I have changed the following parts with no improvement: map sensor, oxygen sensor, spark plugs, pcv valve, idle air control valve, throttle position sensor. I have checked trouble codes and I get an error 33 (map sensor low vacuum, high voltage) and error 44 (oxygen sensor lean exhaust) but these codes appear I think as a result, rather than the cause, of the very rough idle. I have run out of things to try. Can you help? Thanks

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present check for a plugged catalytic converter.

Question: 1999 Plymouth Voyager mileage: 80,000. Intermittent stalling (becoming less intermittent as time goes by) when slowing down to a stop. No problems at all on the highway etc. but in town it is a nightmare. At every stop sign, the car stalls. It starts right up again and then will stall at the next stop. It doesn't happen every day. For a while, it seemed to happen only when the tank had just been topped off. Recently happened again at half a tank. I've replaced the fuel filter, and had the fuel injection system cleaned. What next? Fuel pump?

Answer: Check the idle speed motor, as it may not be functioning properly. Also, check the engine for vacuum leaks.

Question: 1999 Mercedes Benz C230, mileage: 112,000. Bob and Ken, I am not sure what is going on with my car. I'll be driving down the road for about 45 minutes or so and then, out of the blue my car starts sputtering and shuts off on me. If I let it sit for about a minute, it will allow me to go for about a mile. If I allow it to sit for a longer period of time, it will run longer. The car is fine on short trips but it keeps doing this after 30 minutes of driving. My dealer told me it was the radiator and I let them replace it but it didn't do any good and it ended up costing me $600 for a non-Mercedes radiator. Would it be an oxygen sensor? P.S. This car has been really good to me over the years and this is the first major problem with it in over 90,000 miles. Thanks

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present, from what you described, your problem could be the fuel pump, the ignition switch, or the main engine controller possessor.

Question: 1999 Chevy S-10, mileage: 127,600. My vehicle stalls during warm-up; and at normal operating temperature when A/C is switched on. Oil pressure gauge reacts and drops during A/C operation and vehicle stalls at full stop (red light, stop sign, etc.). Service performed: Replaced: Air filter, Dist. cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, oil pressure sending unit, EGR valve-to-manifold gasket, fuel filter, PCV valve, and battery. Checks: THERMAC (check failed: door inside snorkel locked open); vacuum hoses, heat stove tube, TBI mounting bolts, metal hose fitting from A/C accumulator to rear of manifold shows corrosion at the manifold end. ALL tune-up and maintenance required by owner's manual has been performed and is up-to-date. Could a faulty THERMAC air temperature sensor cause these problems? Have I missed something?

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present try replacing the idle air control motor.

Question: 1998 Chevrolet Impala mileage: 116,000. We just got this Chevy. It has a multi port. It ran fine until last week. It lost power when hot, it ran rough and would not hold speed, when I pressed the gas pedal to the floor. Then when I turned it off it would not start. We let it sit over night and it started and ran for a while then the same thing happened. I changed the fuel filter, no change. I purchased a fuel pressure gage and ran a check on the fuel pressure. The gage read 20 psi with the key on, then 35 to 40 psi when it started. The book calls for 40 to 47 psi. The next day when it would not start. I put the pressure gauge back on the car when it was hot and got what looked like air coming out of the bleed line of the gauge. Then the car started. I keep the bleed valve pressed and still saw what looked like air coming out of the bleed valve, and the gas was hot. Could this be vapor lock and how do I cure it. I checked the computer codes and showed nothing but 12.

Answer:   Check the fuel pump intake located inside the gas tank, as it may be loose allowing air to be picked up into the pump.

Question: 1999 Toyota 4Runner mileage: 86,000. Occasional loss of power ending in stall. Roadside fix was to move + battery terminal leads resulting in restoration of power. I later changed terminal leads as well as cleaned the virtually corrosion free battery leads. In the process I also took a volt meter to all fusible links under hood and in the interior to be sure all points where getting juice. To no avail, I still have the same deal. The bad part is that now I have a new prob. no brake lights thus enabling me to shift from "p" to anything. HAYNES book has no pointers in trouble shooting on this nor do they have a fuse panel configuration diagram. "Owners book you say." I'm the 2nd owner and never had one. "Should be diagramed on the interior fuse panel door." I imagine the owner's book and the fuse door are in the same place, with the 1st owner whoever that might be. I have scanned the web looking for the fuse diagram but no luck. I wonder if these prob. are one in the same. The stalling prob. seems to be activated by applying brakes, no sounds of engine failure no sputtering no chugging. At night when headlamps are on, I will apply brakes if the truck doesn't have a power failure and stall, the lights flicker and dim slightly.

Answer:   From what you tell us, it sounds like you may be having trouble with your charging system. Have your battery load tested and check the alternator output for voltage and amperage. Also, check your electrical system for a voltage draw with the engine off.

Question:   2003 Acura CL 3.2 Type-S, mileage: 30,000. My car has no aftermarket parts on it. Recently I ran into a problem with it. When the engine rpm reaches around 3000 rpm, the engine hesitates. Then the check engine light comes on and then engine will not rev past 3000 rpm. It sounds like there is a rev limiter kicking in. This first happened on the freeway a day ago. When this happened I was forced to pull over. The engine will run in this condition below 3000 rpm with no abnormal noise or roughness. When this happened to my car, I was in the middle of nowhere. So, I was forced to drive a couple miles to a gas station. I kept below 3000 rpm. When I arrived at the gas station, I opened the hood and saw the exhaust manifold to the cat glowing orange. I thought that perhaps the cat was plugged. But unfortunately after trying several things to find the problem today, I was not able to do so. I also have a code 4, which is crank angle sensor. I have checked the crank sensor the way that All Data says to and it checked out ok. Perhaps you can help me out. This doesn't make sense to me.

Answer:   The problem you described would indicate the engine is running too rich. Check the fuel pressure regulator and also the fuel injectors to see that they are not leaking. Also, check for a plugged exhaust system especially the catalytic converter and the air supply controls for the converter.

Question: 1999 Ford Focus, mileage: 122,000. Hi There Bob & Ken, I've been searching the Internet for a couple of months now in the hope of finding a solution to a problem I'm having with my car . . . but without success. The problem occurs only on "first" starts on cold and/or wet mornings and is as follows: The engine always fires up without fuss and initially it runs perfectly at idle. The tick-over is slightly faster than on subsequent "warm" starts, so the auto choke is definitely "coming on". There is no sign of any misfire at this stage. The car pulls away and drives ok at first. But when I bring it to a halt, at a road junction just a quarter of a mile along the road from my home, the engine either cuts out immediately I dip the clutch - or it begins to misfire, and then it dies. If I get through the junction without having to stop the car, there's a period when the misfire causes reduced power and rough running, but this lasts only a very short distance before returning to normal running. When the engine does cut out, the re-start is always instantaneous and driving carries on perfectly normally from then on - with the tick-over slightly increased, indicating that the auto choke is still (back?) on. I have replaced the plugs and the HT leads without any change in the situation and I've almost convinced myself that the problem is caused by the auto choke cutting out too soon. But that wouldn't cause the misfire would it? Or is it the misfire that's causing the problem in the first place? I've had the car in three repair shops, with the express intention of getting this fault cured. And, although all have been aware of this problem's existence, nevertheless no one has yet been able to effect a cure. It recently passed its MOT with flying colors so the catalytic converter must be doing its job ok by the way. The car is perfectly adequate in all other aspects, including performance and mpg, the average being around 40 mpg from being new to the present time. I would be most grateful to hear what you think the problem is being caused by - and just as importantly what I can do to cure it (it's driving me mad!) Tony

Answer:   This is a difficult problem to detect because the computer can not sense a malfunction, the vehicles computer system thinks everything is ok. In reality what is happening is the electrical component inside the MAF sensor becomes contaminated by air impurities. These containments imbed themselves to the electrical component that senses the air flow causing the sensor to be slightly off, but not enough to trigger the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp). Replace the MAF sensor with a new. NOTE: (Mass Air Flow MAF sensor or Air Intake Sensor AIS, depending on manufacturer. It does the same thing only with different names).

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