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MORE: Engine stalling questions
Question: 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Mileage: 72,000.
On several occasions (3 so far in the last 45 days), I have had no success in starting
my wonderful machine. 1st time far out of town - they replaced the fuel filter,
2nd time, at a local shop they replaced the battery, third time out of town again
they reset the PCM (power control module) and said the PCM experienced a spike and
it needed to be reprogrammed. The story that I get is that there is a theft deterrent
built into the PCM that automatically shuts down the electrical system - in my particular
case this reads - fuel pump. Incidentally, the fuel pump was replaced at 64,000
by a Chevrolet Dealer (Ouch $ - so much for extended warranties). The behavior of
the car is such that it will not start for a couple of hours - long enough to get
AAA to tow it to a local garage. Where, if it sits just the right amount of time
before they look at it - it starts normally (this is what I am doing with my car
right now - letting it sit for a number of hours) they call me and ask me what seems
to be the problem with the car as it just started for them. They hook up the diagnostic
harness and get the PCM log file - the last guy reset it and I'm on my way for about
$100 plus tow. Since this pattern is repeated, there must be something in the software
program or the hardware design of the PCM that is telling my car to shut down the
fuel pump. In the absence of a great local mechanic, what are your thoughts on this
truck's behavior? Thanks!
Answer: It sounds like you are having a problem with the anti
theft module. Scan the PCM for trouble codes, if are are present try replacing the
anti theft module with a new unit.
Question: 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier, miles: 63,000. I have had a problem
that can't seem to be repaired. The EGR valve does not operate properly - this car
has had 4 of them replaced and cleaned at least twice. The car acts like it is stalling
- the rpm gauge will rev up and down as you're are idling. It will work fine for
a week and then start acting up again but not all the time. The next to last diagnosis
was that there was dirt getting into the valve. The line was scoped. The latest,
different dealer and different mechanic, is that moisture is getting into the valve.
A new thermostat was put into it and the pipe leading to it was wrapped. Very little
difference was noticed. The mechanic who last tested it said that the valve was
only opening 30% when it was acting up and thus if you were going uphill your power
would even seem less..
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we would suggest that you check for a partially plugged catalytic converter.
Question: 1999 Dodge Caravan mileage: 132,233. The car stalls intermittently
when not in motion and re-starts with no problems. The distance speed sensors were
changed to no avail. No codes were found in the computer. I did notice that the
engine tends to run a bit rough at idle prior to stalling. I am up-to-date on my
preventative maintenance. At slow speeds the check engine light comes on for about
2 - 3 seconds and goes off. Is this the sign of an engine problem?
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we would check the idle air control valve.
Question: 1997 Mercury Mystique mileage: 130,000. Hi, I've had it in for
a tune up and everything...I don't want to be taken advantage of so I'm trying to
do some research.... It wants to stall or gets real sluggish and makes and awful
noise when I run the air or the heater but more with the air.... It gets a high
pitched squealing sound to it and starts to chug and sputter as if it wants to stall
and has stalled several times.... A mechanic at my work says it sounds like the
symptoms of a compressor. ...This is very costly and I need to be more sure of what
I'm talking about and what to expect so they don't take me for a million like they
did with my tune up.... I have two small children and don't want to stall in a spot..
Another mechanic says he thinks I need a new serpentine belt.... When they did my
tune up they also flushed my fuel system or something like that?
Answer: We would check the main drive belt for the noise, then replace
the fuel filter for the low power. if problem persists scan the PCM for trouble
codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor
as needed.
Question: 1999 Cadillac Seville STS mileage: 75,000. This has happened
4-5 times in the last few months. The car would be traveling about 40-50 mph then
the information center states an Emissions System problem. Then the check engine
light comes on then when the car comes to a stop, it dies. It will restart after
3-4 attempts and runs rough for a short while. Later the next day the check engine
light goes out and runs fine until the next fault. I had the alternator replaced
as the mechanic stated it was not producing enough voltage, which could change the
parameters of the sensors. He stated he would recommend this first, as I needed
a new alternator anyway. A week later the same problem occurred and I had the Cadillac
dealership test it with their diagnostics. He stated two error codes were shown,
the EGR valve and or the Mass Air Flow. He stated he would try new spark plug wires
and plugs before replacing the other parts. I put new wires and plugs but had the
same problem. Would you recommend replacing the mass airflow sensor and the erg
valve? Larry
Answer: The stalling problems that you are experiencing are probably not
caused by the EGR valve. There is a slight chance the mass airflow sensor may be
at fault. However, we are putting our money on a faulty fuel pump or ECM.
Question: 1997 Chrysler New Yorker, mileage: 105,000. Engine dies while
driving. Starts again in a moment. Diagnostics have not revealed any problems. Told
that situation has to get worse before trying diagnostics again. When car dies there
is no warning like coughing or stuttering. All systems appear to be working. No
consistent environment when it dies, like heat, cold, or driving condition. My bride
says its gremlins. Any ideas? I really like this car, year and model.
Answer: We would check the pickup coil in the distributor,
the engine control module that is by the battery and the fuel pump.
Question: 1996 Buick Skylark, mileage: 108,000. I have been having trouble
with my car for a while it starts up in the A.M, but when put in gear it will stall.
Then it will allow you to drive a little ways then stall, it will do this until
it is warm. Now it seems to be idling hard and hesitating/missing, feels almost
as if it is running on 3 spark plugs instead of 4. The alternator, starter, muffler,
oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, EGR valve, fuel filter have all been recently replaced
to try and remedy this problem. The only thing that showed up on the diagnostic
done recently was the EGR valve, this didn't help, the minimum airflow was also
adjusted. Please help everyone is stumped - could this be the catalytic converter
(I think it could be).
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we would check the idle speed motor as it may be gummed up and not working
properly. It may need cleaning or replacing.
Question: 1999 Cadillac Sedan Deville mileage: 89,000. Driving down the
road - no particular speed, temp, rhyme or reason, my car will suddenly lose
power to the point where I have to pull over and shut it off. I've been to many
dealers and repair centers, been hooked to every scanner known to man and still
no answers. I have spent thousands replacing parts. Any ideas before I ditch the
car?
Answer: Intermittent problems are difficult to diagnose. The
problem you described must be isolated when the stalling occurs to pinpoint the
cause. One of three things could be happening: 1. Lack of fuel; 2. Lack of spark
at the spark plugs; or 3. Electronic component failure. Scan the PCM for trouble
codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor
as needed.
Question: 1999 Ford Focus, mileage: 70,885. I just recently had
a timing belt replaced and now the car hesitates to go over 50 mph. I talked to
a mechanic and she said that my valves may have been damaged when the belt slipped.
I want to get a second opinion before I pay out that much money.
Answer: Before you have the head removed and the valves reground, the
compression should be check to verify that your problem is with the valves.
Question: 1997 BMW 525i mileage: 167,000. After the car has warmed
up I get a hesitation and shudder on initial acceleration from a dead stop (almost
like it's flooding). It does not do this when the car is cold AND interestingly
it goes away for about 5 minutes if I turn the car off and back on again.
BMW service techs have put it on the computer and all checks out fine. It
sounds to me like some sensor is reading wrong once the computer kicks in.
Does this sound reasonable? If so, what sensor is likely faulty given that
the computer says all is fine when it obviously is not? I can't afford to
replace every sensor on the car to fix this.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present you may have a bad power train control module.
Question: 1995 Ford Bronco, mileage: 130,000. Has a lot of hesitation,
no pick-up, could not get out of the way of an oncoming vehicle if my life depended
on it. Have changed wires, plugs, coil, EGR & sensor. One
guy tried adjusting the timing, it only got worse.
Answer: Check to see that the catalytic converter is not plugged.
Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test.
Question: 1998 Mazda Prot�g�, mileage: 130,000. In the last few
months, I have an engine stalling problem while driving at any speed. Without
warning, the engine would stop responding to the gas pedal being pressed.
The engine seems to sputter a little but otherwise no more responses. I would
then have to bring the car to a stop, turn off the engine then start it again, and
it would run just fine after that. This problem occurs at random intervals
about one every few days to a week. I have maintained regular maintenance
on the car and just recently changed plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition
wires. Also changed, oil, oil filter, and air filter. Could it be a
faulty or dirty fuel injector? Does this problem have anything to do with
the timing belt? I am about due for change of timing belt.
If I continue running the vehicle despite this reoccurring problem, will it damage
the engine? Please help, thank you very much.
Answer: The problem you are experiencing is probably caused by a faulty
fuel pump. The timing belt has nothing to do with this problem, but if you
are due to have it changed, it would be a good idea to do it at the same time.
Question: 1999 Ford Windstar, mileage: 130,000. My car starts for
a few second but keeps shutting off. Tested coil, ignition module, starter
solenoid, ignition switch and checked wires from ignition switch and car still will
not start. I’ve also checked the fuel system. Can you please tell me
what is the problem?
Answer: Check the fuel pump pressure and check alternator to see that
it is not putting out AC voltage spikes.
Question: 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 mileage: 140,000. Truck will start
and run fine then die going down the road and won't start. The next day it
will start and run fine for a while and die again. I replaced the fuel filter,
distributor cap, rotor, and cam-sensing unit.
Answer: It appears you may have a faulty fuel pump.
Question: 1997 Chrysler New Yorker, mileage: 144,000. Engine dies
at any speed, or throttle position, followed by restart die out. I have had
computer replaced, fuel pump replaced, ignition switch replaced. Assorted
sensors and wires have also been replaced with the problem persisting. This
is an intermittent problem, which only occurs about once a week, or less.
However, when it occurs at 70 mph on the freeway, it could be very dangerous.
I've had it to numerous garages, and no mechanic seems to know what the problem
is. Including the Chrysler dealer in town. I would appreciate any suggestions
you might have.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.
Question: 1996 Toyota Camry, mileage: 156,211. I was
putting plugs in and like a dummy, I forgot to disconnect the hot terminal on my
battery. I dropped a wrench on alternator, it arced, and smoke came from fuse
box under the hood. Well I had alternator checked and was told it was no good
so I bought a new one. Now my car will start and run for about 5 to 10 seconds
and die like it’s out of gas. I checked and there is fuel in the tank and
I can hear electric fuel pump running and there is gas coming from return line.
What is going on? P.s. I ‘am getting good fire at pressure regulator; I hear
a lot of air in that area. Please help thank you!
Answer: Check the bottom side of the fuse box for burnt or shorted out
wiring. Also, check all the fuses and the fusible links.
Question: 1998 Ford Explorer, mileage: 116,000. This problem has
been going on for the last 6 months. After the truck sets overnight, I start it
and drive it for 15-30 minutes and then shut it off to go into a store for 5-10
minutes. I then get in it to start it up and it will start and try to idle
at 200 & 600 RPM until it dies in 3-4 seconds. The engine shakes back and
forth. I can then turn off the key and try it again - it will usually do it
again. I will wait for 3-4 minutes and try it and it will usually start up.
If I shut it off and try to start it, again- it will usually do the same thing.
I have tried replacing the MASS AIR FLOW and no difference. The Check engine
light will not come on. The only time the Check engine light will come on
is when the truck is driven 2-3 hrs. The codes set says "Rich on bank 1, Rich
on bank 2, Lean on bank 1, Lean on bank 2". This does not happen every time;
probably 1 out of 10 times I start it. I was also told that it has a MAP sensor
and I cannot find it at all, I have looked everywhere. Does this year have
one? What do you think it could be? Also, is there software for a laptop
that can be used to connect and read the sensor in real time? Like the OBD
II?
Answer: Try cleaning the idle passages and the idle speed motor.
If this does not correct your problem, you may have some faulty fuel injectors that
need replacing. Your vehicle does not have a MAP sensor. Scan the PCM for
trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed
sensor as needed.
Question: 2002 Nissan Frontier mileage: 59,000. Well this happened
to me the other day. I was driving home and it was wet out, I drove through
a puddle and shortly after my car stalled. As I continued to drive every time
I hit a stoplight or I had to come to a stop, I could feel the car begin to pull/chug.
But now it seems to be happening when I am driving no matter the weather conditions.
But hasn't stalled since. I can just feel when I accelerate sometimes it not
wanting to go like it should. Thanks, Tyler
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present your ignition system could be wet.
MORE: Engine stalling questions
Repair Topics /
Stalls /
Stalls-1
/ Stalls-2
/ Stalls-3
/ Stalls-4
/ Stalls-5
/ Stalls-6
/ Stalls-7
/ Stalls-8
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