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Car Engine Stalls and Runs Poor Questions

Question: 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Mileage: 72,000. On several occasions (3 so far in the last 45 days), I have had no success in starting my wonderful machine. 1st time far out of town - they replaced the fuel filter, 2nd time, at a local shop they replaced the battery, third time out of town again they reset the PCM (power control module) and said the PCM experienced a spike and it needed to be reprogrammed. The story that I get is that there is a theft deterrent built into the PCM that automatically shuts down the electrical system - in my particular case this reads - fuel pump. Incidentally, the fuel pump was replaced at 64,000 by a Chevrolet Dealer (Ouch $ - so much for extended warranties). The behavior of the car is such that it will not start for a couple of hours - long enough to get AAA to tow it to a local garage. Where, if it sits just the right amount of time before they look at it - it starts normally (this is what I am doing with my car right now - letting it sit for a number of hours) they call me and ask me what seems to be the problem with the car as it just started for them. They hook up the diagnostic harness and get the PCM log file - the last guy reset it and I'm on my way for about $100 plus tow. Since this pattern is repeated, there must be something in the software program or the hardware design of the PCM that is telling my car to shut down the fuel pump. In the absence of a great local mechanic, what are your thoughts on this truck's behavior? Thanks!

Answer:   It sounds like you are having a problem with the anti theft module. Scan the PCM for trouble codes, if are are present try replacing the anti theft module with a new unit.

Question: 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier, miles: 63,000. I have had a problem that can't seem to be repaired. The EGR valve does not operate properly - this car has had 4 of them replaced and cleaned at least twice. The car acts like it is stalling - the rpm gauge will rev up and down as you're are idling. It will work fine for a week and then start acting up again but not all the time. The next to last diagnosis was that there was dirt getting into the valve. The line was scoped. The latest, different dealer and different mechanic, is that moisture is getting into the valve. A new thermostat was put into it and the pipe leading to it was wrapped. Very little difference was noticed. The mechanic who last tested it said that the valve was only opening 30% when it was acting up and thus if you were going uphill your power would even seem less..

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would suggest that you check for a partially plugged catalytic converter.

Question: 1999 Dodge Caravan mileage: 132,233. The car stalls intermittently when not in motion and re-starts with no problems. The distance speed sensors were changed to no avail. No codes were found in the computer. I did notice that the engine tends to run a bit rough at idle prior to stalling. I am up-to-date on my preventative maintenance. At slow speeds the check engine light comes on for about 2 - 3 seconds and goes off. Is this the sign of an engine problem?

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check the idle air control valve.

Question: 1997 Mercury Mystique mileage: 130,000. Hi, I've had it in for a tune up and everything...I don't want to be taken advantage of so I'm trying to do some research.... It wants to stall or gets real sluggish and makes and awful noise when I run the air or the heater but more with the air.... It gets a high pitched squealing sound to it and starts to chug and sputter as if it wants to stall and has stalled several times.... A mechanic at my work says it sounds like the symptoms of a compressor. ...This is very costly and I need to be more sure of what I'm talking about and what to expect so they don't take me for a million like they did with my tune up.... I have two small children and don't want to stall in a spot.. Another mechanic says he thinks I need a new serpentine belt.... When they did my tune up they also flushed my fuel system or something like that?

Answer: We would check the main drive belt for the noise, then replace the fuel filter for the low power. if problem persists scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.

Question: 1999 Cadillac Seville STS mileage: 75,000. This has happened 4-5 times in the last few months. The car would be traveling about 40-50 mph then the information center states an Emissions System problem. Then the check engine light comes on then when the car comes to a stop, it dies. It will restart after 3-4 attempts and runs rough for a short while. Later the next day the check engine light goes out and runs fine until the next fault. I had the alternator replaced as the mechanic stated it was not producing enough voltage, which could change the parameters of the sensors. He stated he would recommend this first, as I needed a new alternator anyway. A week later the same problem occurred and I had the Cadillac dealership test it with their diagnostics. He stated two error codes were shown, the EGR valve and or the Mass Air Flow. He stated he would try new spark plug wires and plugs before replacing the other parts. I put new wires and plugs but had the same problem. Would you recommend replacing the mass airflow sensor and the erg valve? Larry

Answer: The stalling problems that you are experiencing are probably not caused by the EGR valve. There is a slight chance the mass airflow sensor may be at fault. However, we are putting our money on a faulty fuel pump or ECM.

Question: 1997 Chrysler New Yorker, mileage: 105,000. Engine dies while driving. Starts again in a moment. Diagnostics have not revealed any problems. Told that situation has to get worse before trying diagnostics again. When car dies there is no warning like coughing or stuttering. All systems appear to be working. No consistent environment when it dies, like heat, cold, or driving condition. My bride says its gremlins. Any ideas? I really like this car, year and model.

Answer:   We would check the pickup coil in the distributor, the engine control module that is by the battery and the fuel pump.

Question: 1996 Buick Skylark, mileage: 108,000. I have been having trouble with my car for a while it starts up in the A.M, but when put in gear it will stall. Then it will allow you to drive a little ways then stall, it will do this until it is warm. Now it seems to be idling hard and hesitating/missing, feels almost as if it is running on 3 spark plugs instead of 4. The alternator, starter, muffler, oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, EGR valve, fuel filter have all been recently replaced to try and remedy this problem. The only thing that showed up on the diagnostic done recently was the EGR valve, this didn't help, the minimum airflow was also adjusted. Please help everyone is stumped - could this be the catalytic converter (I think it could be).

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check the idle speed motor as it may be gummed up and not working properly. It may need cleaning or replacing.

Question: 1999 Cadillac Sedan Deville mileage: 89,000. Driving down the road - no particular speed, temp, rhyme or reason,  my car will suddenly lose power to the point where I have to pull over and shut it off. I've been to many dealers and repair centers, been hooked to every scanner known to man and still no answers. I have spent thousands replacing parts. Any ideas before I ditch the car?

Answer:   Intermittent problems are difficult to diagnose. The problem you described must be isolated when the stalling occurs to pinpoint the cause. One of three things could be happening: 1. Lack of fuel; 2. Lack of spark at the spark plugs; or 3. Electronic component failure.  Scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.

Question: 1999 Ford Focus, mileage: 70,885.  I just recently had a timing belt replaced and now the car hesitates to go over 50 mph. I talked to a mechanic and she said that my valves may have been damaged when the belt slipped. I want to get a second opinion before I pay out that much money. 

Answer: Before you have the head removed and the valves reground, the compression should be check to verify that your problem is with the valves.

Question: 1997 BMW 525i mileage: 167,000.  After the car has warmed up I get a hesitation and shudder on initial acceleration from a dead stop (almost like it's flooding). It does not do this when the car is cold AND interestingly it goes away for about 5 minutes if I turn the car off and back on again.   BMW service techs have put it on the computer and all checks out fine.  It sounds to me like some sensor is reading wrong once the computer kicks in.  Does this sound reasonable?  If so, what sensor is likely faulty given that the computer says all is fine when it obviously is not?  I can't afford to replace every sensor on the car to fix this.

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present you may have a bad power train control module.

Question: 1995 Ford Bronco, mileage: 130,000.  Has a lot of hesitation, no pick-up, could not get out of the way of an oncoming vehicle if my life depended on it.  Have changed wires,   plugs, coil, EGR & sensor.  One guy tried adjusting the timing, it only got worse.

Answer: Check to see that the catalytic converter is not plugged.  Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test.

Question: 1998 Mazda Prot�g�, mileage: 130,000.  In the last few months, I have an engine stalling problem while driving at any speed.  Without warning, the engine would stop responding to the gas pedal being pressed.  The engine seems to sputter a little but otherwise no more responses.  I would then have to bring the car to a stop, turn off the engine then start it again, and it would run just fine after that.  This problem occurs at random intervals about one every few days to a week.  I have maintained regular maintenance on the car and just recently changed plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition wires.  Also changed, oil, oil filter, and air filter.  Could it be a faulty or dirty fuel injector?  Does this problem have anything to do with the timing belt?   I am about due for change of timing belt.   If I continue running the vehicle despite this reoccurring problem, will it damage the engine?  Please help, thank you very much.

Answer: The problem you are experiencing is probably caused by a faulty fuel pump.  The timing belt has nothing to do with this problem, but if you are due to have it changed, it would be a good idea to do it at the same time.

Question: 1999 Ford Windstar, mileage: 130,000.  My car starts for a few second but keeps shutting off.  Tested coil, ignition module, starter solenoid, ignition switch and checked wires from ignition switch and car still will not start.  I’ve also checked the fuel system.  Can you please tell me what is the problem?

Answer: Check the fuel pump pressure and check alternator to see that it is not putting out AC voltage spikes.

Question: 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 mileage: 140,000.  Truck will start and run fine then die going down the road and won't start.  The next day it will start and run fine for a while and die again.  I replaced the fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor, and cam-sensing unit.

Answer: It appears you may have a faulty fuel pump.

Question: 1997 Chrysler New Yorker, mileage: 144,000.  Engine dies at any speed, or throttle position, followed by restart die out.  I have had computer replaced, fuel pump replaced, ignition switch replaced.  Assorted sensors and wires have also been replaced with the problem persisting.  This is an intermittent problem, which only occurs about once a week, or less.  However, when it occurs at 70 mph on the freeway, it could be very dangerous.  I've had it to numerous garages, and no mechanic seems to know what the problem is.  Including the Chrysler dealer in town.  I would appreciate any suggestions you might have.

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.

Question:   1996 Toyota Camry, mileage: 156,211.  I was putting plugs in and like a dummy, I forgot to disconnect the hot terminal on my battery.  I dropped a wrench on alternator, it arced, and smoke came from fuse box under the hood.  Well I had alternator checked and was told it was no good so I bought a new one.  Now my car will start and run for about 5 to 10 seconds and die like it’s out of gas.  I checked and there is fuel in the tank and I can hear electric fuel pump running and there is gas coming from return line.  What is going on?  P.s. I ‘am getting good fire at pressure regulator; I hear a lot of air in that area.   Please help thank you!

Answer: Check the bottom side of the fuse box for burnt or shorted out wiring.  Also, check all the fuses and the fusible links.

Question: 1998 Ford Explorer, mileage: 116,000.  This problem has been going on for the last 6 months. After the truck sets overnight, I start it and drive it for 15-30 minutes and then shut it off to go into a store for 5-10 minutes.  I then get in it to start it up and it will start and try to idle at 200 & 600 RPM until it dies in 3-4 seconds.  The engine shakes back and forth.  I can then turn off the key and try it again - it will usually do it again.  I will wait for 3-4 minutes and try it and it will usually start up.  If I shut it off and try to start it, again- it will usually do the same thing.  I have tried replacing the MASS AIR FLOW and no difference.  The Check engine light will not come on.  The only time the Check engine light will come on is when the truck is driven 2-3 hrs.  The codes set says "Rich on bank 1, Rich on bank 2, Lean on bank 1, Lean on bank 2".  This does not happen every time; probably 1 out of 10 times I start it.  I was also told that it has a MAP sensor and I cannot find it at all, I have looked everywhere.  Does this year have one?  What do you think it could be?  Also, is there software for a laptop that can be used to connect and read the sensor in real time?  Like the OBD II?

Answer: Try cleaning the idle passages and the idle speed motor.   If this does not correct your problem, you may have some faulty fuel injectors that need replacing.  Your vehicle does not have a MAP sensor. Scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.

Question: 2002 Nissan Frontier mileage: 59,000.  Well this happened to me the other day.  I was driving home and it was wet out, I drove through a puddle and shortly after my car stalled.  As I continued to drive every time I hit a stoplight or I had to come to a stop, I could feel the car begin to pull/chug.  But now it seems to be happening when I am driving no matter the weather conditions.  But hasn't stalled since.  I can just feel when I accelerate sometimes it not wanting to go like it should.  Thanks, Tyler

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present your ignition system could be wet.

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Check Engine Light