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MORE: Engine stalling questions
Question: 1967 Ford Mustang, miles: 189,322. I recently
replaced the heater core. After flushing and refilling there seems to be a problem
with the radiator running for an extended period of time. On two occasions after
having driven from 1 to 1 1/2 miles, as I go to make a turn the car will sputter
a little and then stall. It typically will not start again for 10 to 20 minutes.
I have not had this problem in the past and I am at a loss. There seems to be no
overheating when this happens although I have noticed a slight bubbling around the
top spout of the radiator below the cap. I have been told this should not have anything
to do with the problem but I am unsure.
Answer: One of two things is probably happening. Your carburetor
could be flooding when you go into a turn causing the engine to die or you may have
a fuel line that has a small crack letting air into the line causing the fuel pump
to loose its prime..
Question: 1999 Plymouth Voyager, mileage: 96,000. Rough idle when starting
cold or hot and when put into gear it stalls out. When it's idling, rough it also
smells like it's running very rich. If you let it run for several minutes the idle
smoothes out then you can put in gear and it doesn't stall. It runs great after
you get it going. I have had it scoped, probed and fondled by several different
mechanics and they can't seem to find anything wrong. I had a tune-up with new wires
and the whole 9 yards done and it ran perfect for about 2 months but then went back
to it's old ways. Seems to be a little worse in the summer months.
Answer: Check the fuel injectors and filter and also the fuel pressure
regulator.
Question: 2001 Chevrolet Malibu, mileage: 94,000. This problem only
happened yesterday. The car was driven in the morning and had a single hesitation
(engine sputtered) while cruising around 30 mph. I thought nothing of it...possibly
moisture in the gasoline. Later in the day, the car was started and ran great,
but would not accelerate in drive or reverse. The car would pull itself along
at idle-speed in both drive and reverse, but whenever the accelerator pedal was
pressed, the car would buck and die. We checked everything that we could find
under the hood (vacuum hoses, electrical connections, filters, etc.) The only
thing we could figure out is that it might be transmission related or and electrical
problem. I read the FAQ's on this site. We recently had the torque-converter
lockup solenoid replaced (symptoms were lockup and stalls above 40 mph) and have
also had the ignition system tuned within the last 8 months (had shorting in the
plug wires). Today, the car started and drove without a problem. I'm
wondering whether this is related to, the recent heavy rains (and subsequent high
humidity) and the electrical system, particularly the on-board computer or control
circuits, or possibly some loop back control governing the transmission and acceleration.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we would replace the fuel pump and fuel filter.
Question: 2002 Chevrolet 1500 Silverado mileage: 120,000. Recently
I have replaced wires, plugs, alternator [alternator twice], Freon dyer &
ac condenser also I have had the timing and fuel pressure checked and the battery
checked and rechecked [all by mechanics although in different shops at different
times over the last few months] the problem I am having seems to be in idle where
the engine will almost die but come back when given gas to accelerate [constant
problem] also just recently my wife was driving to work stopped at a gas station
and when she went to leave the truck would not start or even try to turn over in
fact the only sign of any electrical supply was a very faint buzz when the key was
placed into the ignition switch. I cannot get the truck cranked even with trying
to jump-start. If ya'll have any tips or suggestions, I would be very grateful.
Answer: Its sounds like you have a dead battery, Also check the alternator
output.
Question: 1998 Pontiac Grand AM mileage: 112,000. car just out of
garage! Starts and runs just fine for awhile, and then the yellow check engine light
comes on and it stalls and will not start again until about an hour. Had the
same problem 2 years ago and it was a computer module that was placed under the
dashboard somewhere, can't remember the name of it! If there is such a thing
as an oil module I also had one put in. I had no oil pressure and an oil switch
also was put in. I keep spending money and the darn car is doing the same
thing! Some one said the engine was going but it doesn’t even burn one drop
of oil and nor does it smoke at all! As you might have figured out, I am a
novice when it comes to my car! Thank you for listening, I do hope you can
give me some good advice but if you can’t, that’s ok too! Thanks again,
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we would check the fuel pump.
Question: 2002 Mercedes Benz, mileage: 69,000. I've had this car
for 2 years, and during cold weather it runs great, but if it gets 70 degrees or
higher outside, after I drive the car about 10 miles or so, it will shut down.
It acts like it's not getting any gas. The fuel filter has been changed and
also has new plugs. After the car sets for about 30 to 45 min. It will
start again and will run until it gets hot and shuts back down. My temperature
gauge shows normal when this happens. So what could my problem be?
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we would replace the fuel pump.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet Lumina, mileage: 60,000. Was running fine,
but this morning it started hard and wouldn't stay running. When gas is applied,
it stalls. Sounds like it's not running on all the cylinders. What do
I do?
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we would check for cylinder misfire you could need a tune up including
spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter.
Question: 1999 BMW 325i, mileage: 88,000. Car suddenly stalled and
continues to do so. The service engine soon light is now on. I checked
the code and got code P0227, parts store won't even tell me what that indicates.
Said it could be lots of things. Can you help? I thought it could be
the MAP sensor or the computer.
Answer: Code P0227 has to do with the electronic exhaust gas recirculation
system. There are a number of things included in that starting with the EGR
valve, EGR valve controller, vacuum lines, thematic vacuum valves. Inspect to replace
as needed.
Question: 1998 Honda Accord, mileage: 83,000. Hi, I'm having a problem
with my car chugging and stalling out after 40 miles of driving. It'll be running
fine, then suddenly start chugging like it's not getting enough gas. I can
press the gas to keep it going only for a little while until the problem occurs
again. When I stop the car and let it sit for a minute, it's fine for a couple
more miles until it starts chugging again and eventually stalls, with total lack
of power. It occurs in both the city and on the highway. I'm just afraid
I'll accidentally blow up the engine on of these times. I've spent $300
thus far trying to find the solution and nothing has worked. I've had both
fuel filters and the oxygen sensor replaced. Since it is fuel injected could
it be something in the fuel line? None of the mechanics where I live seems
to know what is going on with it, and I'm not rich enough to continue having them
tinker with it. I've put in some fuel and engine cleaner to see if any of
the lines were clogged, but I haven't driven it much since then. I would like
to know any and all possible causes since I do drive my car a lot and do drive more
than 40 miles at a crack. Please help! I've got a 200-mile drive in
front of me, and I need my car to take me further than 40 miles at a time!
Please e-mail me back ASAP! Thank you!
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we would check the fuel pump, ignition coil and possibility excessive
wear in the distributor.
Question: 1999 Acura Integra, mileage: 111,000. The problem has
happened twice. The first time I had pulled into a shopping mall and after
about 15 minutes I started the car, was backing out of the parking space, and the
engine quit/stalled. I tried starting it and it would not start. I came
back the next day and the car started right up with no problem. I was able
to drive it (my normal driving habits) for a little more than a week, when I was
going about 45 mph the engine just quit on me again. After getting it
towed, it started up again the next day. Both times, it stopped; I heard no
unusual noise or felt anything out of the ordinary. I took it to a local service
station and they couldn't find anything wrong with it, although they mentioned an
ignition system problem with a newer model Integra. They looked at it, said
it appeared to be fine, and were reluctant to replace it on a "maybe" that would
cost about 500 dollars. I called an Acura dealership and the service department
(I did not talk directly with a technician) suggested that the” hot engine restart"
problem might be due to a problem with a coolant (ECT) sensor. A man in the
parts department mentioned that there had been a bulletin on an igniter problem
with models around that year. Do any of these suggestions make sense?
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we would check the fuel pump, ignition coil and possibility excessive
wear in the distributor.
Question: 1995 Buick Park Avenue mileage: 120,000. Recently my car
has been stalling at all speeds, even at 60 mph. The repair shop tells me
the stalling is not setting a code. Over the past three months I have replaced
the mass airflow sensor, knock sensor, temperature sensor, spark plugs, spark plug
wires, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil. The repair shop says the
fuel pump and regulator are testing ok. Both the fuel pump and regulator were
replaced in 1998. I even cleaned the throttle body. Please help, this
is getting expensive. Thanks Bill
Answer: Possibilities are ignition pick-up coil, ignition module, faulty
ignition switch or a faulty power control module (PCM).
Question: 1998 GMC Suburban mileage: 89,300. My SUV ran fine, I
ran out of gas. Now every time you stop in "n" or "d" it dies. I replaced
the fuel filter & added cleaner to the fuel several times. That has not helped.
I took it to the local shop and they thought it was the throttle motor, it wasn't.
They cleaned & replaced a seal. The idle is up other wise it dies all the
time. A few days ago, the kids left the lights on & the battery ran low.
It started fine, I drove 190 miles, but the battery wouldn't charge & the speedometer
showed I was going 70 in a 30. If you gave it gas, the needle would jump up
like the rpm's. It sat over night & the next day it was fine except
for the dying. Do you have any thoughts on this, so I can take it back to
the shop & get this problem fixed? It's a pain to have to keep restarting
it or with your foot on the brake & gas. Thanks, Pam
Answer: Its sounds like you have a fuel pump that is weak and you caused
it to show up by running out of gas. Replace the fuel pump with new to recheck system.
Question: 1999 Ford Explorer, mileage: 56,000. The auto will lose
idle under various conditions. For instance, when starting the auto after
it has been sitting, the auto will stall because it won't stay idle. It may
do this 2 to 3 times a month without any warning. Also, occasionally while
driving, the auto will without warning lose idle when the accelerator is released.
You can keep the auto running by keeping your foot on the accelerator. Finally,
the auto will die while traveling at speeds of 45 mph or less in which the steering
wheel will lock. All of the above only occur periodically. The dealership
has replaced the fuel filter and checked all computer sensors without finding anything
wrong. The dealership hooked up a recording device to record the problem whenever
it occurred but it failed to record anything because the auto would go dead.
Can you provide any information that we can pass along to the dealership to pinpoint
this problem? Thank-you for this service.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine
scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present we would check for a weak idle speed motor may be causing your problem.
Also it check the mass air flow sensor.
MORE: Engine stalling questions
Repair Topics /
Stalls /
Stalls-1
/ Stalls-2
/ Stalls-3
/ Stalls-4
/ Stalls-5
/ Stalls-6
/ Stalls-7
/ Stalls-8
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