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Car Engine Stalls and Runs Poor Questions

Question: 1967 Ford Mustang, miles: 189,322. I recently replaced the heater core. After flushing and refilling there seems to be a problem with the radiator running for an extended period of time. On two occasions after having driven from 1 to 1 1/2 miles, as I go to make a turn the car will sputter a little and then stall. It typically will not start again for 10 to 20 minutes. I have not had this problem in the past and I am at a loss. There seems to be no overheating when this happens although I have noticed a slight bubbling around the top spout of the radiator below the cap. I have been told this should not have anything to do with the problem but I am unsure.

Answer:   One of two things is probably happening. Your carburetor could be flooding when you go into a turn causing the engine to die or you may have a fuel line that has a small crack letting air into the line causing the fuel pump to loose its prime..

Question: 1999 Plymouth Voyager, mileage: 96,000. Rough idle when starting cold or hot and when put into gear it stalls out. When it's idling, rough it also smells like it's running very rich. If you let it run for several minutes the idle smoothes out then you can put in gear and it doesn't stall. It runs great after you get it going. I have had it scoped, probed and fondled by several different mechanics and they can't seem to find anything wrong. I had a tune-up with new wires and the whole 9 yards done and it ran perfect for about 2 months but then went back to it's old ways. Seems to be a little worse in the summer months.

Answer: Check the fuel injectors and filter and also the fuel pressure regulator.

Question: 2001 Chevrolet Malibu, mileage: 94,000.  This problem only happened yesterday.  The car was driven in the morning and had a single hesitation (engine sputtered) while cruising around 30 mph.  I thought nothing of it...possibly moisture in the gasoline.  Later in the day, the car was started and ran great, but would not accelerate in drive or reverse.  The car would pull itself along at idle-speed in both drive and reverse, but whenever the accelerator pedal was pressed, the car would buck and die.  We checked everything that we could find under the hood (vacuum hoses, electrical connections, filters, etc.)  The only thing we could figure out is that it might be transmission related or and electrical problem.   I read the FAQ's on this site.  We recently had the torque-converter lockup solenoid replaced (symptoms were lockup and stalls above 40 mph) and have also had the ignition system tuned within the last 8 months (had shorting in the plug wires).  Today, the car started and drove without a problem.  I'm wondering whether this is related to, the recent heavy rains (and subsequent high humidity) and the electrical system, particularly the on-board computer or control circuits, or possibly some loop back control governing the transmission and acceleration. 

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would replace the fuel pump and fuel filter.

Question: 2002 Chevrolet 1500 Silverado mileage: 120,000.  Recently I have replaced wires, plugs, alternator  [alternator twice], Freon dyer & ac condenser also I have had the timing and fuel pressure checked and the battery checked and rechecked [all by mechanics although in different shops at different times over the last few months] the problem I am having seems to be in idle where the engine will almost die but come back when given gas to accelerate [constant problem] also just recently my wife was driving to work stopped at a gas station and when she went to leave the truck would not start or even try to turn over in fact the only sign of any electrical supply was a very faint buzz when the key was placed into the ignition switch. I cannot get the truck cranked even with trying to jump-start.  If ya'll have any tips or suggestions, I would be very grateful.

Answer: Its sounds like you have a dead battery, Also check the alternator output.

Question: 1998 Pontiac Grand AM mileage: 112,000.  car just out of garage! Starts and runs just fine for awhile, and then the yellow check engine light comes on and it stalls and will not start again until about an hour.  Had the same problem 2 years ago and it was a computer module that was placed under the dashboard somewhere, can't remember the name of it!  If there is such a thing as an oil module I also had one put in. I had no oil pressure and an oil switch also was put in.  I keep spending money and the darn car is doing the same thing!  Some one said the engine was going but it doesn’t even burn one drop of oil and nor does it smoke at all!  As you might have figured out, I am a novice when it comes to my car!  Thank you for listening, I do hope you can give me some good advice but if you can’t, that’s ok too!  Thanks again,

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check the fuel pump.

Question: 2002 Mercedes Benz, mileage: 69,000.  I've had this car for 2 years, and during cold weather it runs great, but if it gets 70 degrees or higher outside, after I drive the car about 10 miles or so, it will shut down.  It acts like it's not getting any gas.  The fuel filter has been changed and also has new plugs.  After the car sets for about 30 to 45 min.  It will start again and will run until it gets hot and shuts back down.  My temperature gauge shows normal when this happens.  So what could my problem be?

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would replace the fuel pump.

Question: 1999 Chevrolet Lumina, mileage: 60,000.  Was running fine, but this morning it started hard and wouldn't stay running.  When gas is applied, it stalls.  Sounds like it's not running on all the cylinders.  What do I do?

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check for cylinder misfire you could need a tune up including spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter.

Question: 1999 BMW 325i, mileage: 88,000.  Car suddenly stalled and continues to do so.  The service engine soon light is now on.  I checked the code and got code P0227, parts store won't even tell me what that indicates.  Said it could be lots of things.  Can you help?  I thought it could be the MAP sensor or the computer.

Answer: Code P0227 has to do with the electronic exhaust gas recirculation system.  There are a number of things included in that starting with the EGR valve, EGR valve controller, vacuum lines, thematic vacuum valves. Inspect to replace as needed.

Question: 1998 Honda Accord, mileage: 83,000.  Hi, I'm having a problem with my car chugging and stalling out after 40 miles of driving. It'll be running fine, then suddenly start chugging like it's not getting enough gas.  I can press the gas to keep it going only for a little while until the problem occurs again.  When I stop the car and let it sit for a minute, it's fine for a couple more miles until it starts chugging again and eventually stalls, with total lack of power.  It occurs in both the city and on the highway.  I'm just afraid I'll accidentally blow up the engine on of these times.   I've spent $300 thus far trying to find the solution and nothing has worked.  I've had both fuel filters and the oxygen sensor replaced.  Since it is fuel injected could it be something in the fuel line?  None of the mechanics where I live seems to know what is going on with it, and I'm not rich enough to continue having them tinker with it.  I've put in some fuel and engine cleaner to see if any of the lines were clogged, but I haven't driven it much since then.  I would like to know any and all possible causes since I do drive my car a lot and do drive more than 40 miles at a crack.  Please help!  I've got a 200-mile drive in front of me, and I need my car to take me further than 40 miles at a time!   Please e-mail me back ASAP!  Thank you! 

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check the fuel pump, ignition coil and possibility excessive wear in the distributor.

Question: 1999 Acura Integra, mileage: 111,000.  The problem has happened twice.  The first time I had pulled into a shopping mall and after about 15 minutes I started the car, was backing out of the parking space, and the engine quit/stalled.  I tried starting it and it would not start.  I came back the next day and the car started right up with no problem.  I was able to drive it (my normal driving habits) for a little more than a week, when I was going about 45 mph the engine just quit on me again.   After getting it towed, it started up again the next day.  Both times, it stopped; I heard no unusual noise or felt anything out of the ordinary.  I took it to a local service station and they couldn't find anything wrong with it, although they mentioned an ignition system problem with a newer model Integra.  They looked at it, said it appeared to be fine, and were reluctant to replace it on a "maybe" that would cost about 500 dollars.  I called an Acura dealership and the service department (I did not talk directly with a technician) suggested that the” hot engine restart" problem might be due to a problem with a coolant (ECT) sensor.  A man in the parts department mentioned that there had been a bulletin on an igniter problem with models around that year.  Do any of these suggestions make sense?

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check the fuel pump, ignition coil and possibility excessive wear in the distributor.

Question: 1995 Buick Park Avenue mileage: 120,000.  Recently my car has been stalling at all speeds, even at 60 mph.  The repair shop tells me the stalling is not setting a code.  Over the past three months I have replaced the mass airflow sensor, knock sensor, temperature sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil.  The repair shop says the fuel pump and regulator are testing ok.  Both the fuel pump and regulator were replaced in 1998.  I even cleaned the throttle body.  Please help, this is getting expensive.  Thanks Bill

Answer: Possibilities are ignition pick-up coil, ignition module, faulty ignition switch or a faulty power control module (PCM).

Question: 1998 GMC Suburban mileage: 89,300.  My SUV ran fine, I ran out of gas.  Now every time you stop in "n" or "d" it dies.  I replaced the fuel filter & added cleaner to the fuel several times.  That has not helped.  I took it to the local shop and they thought it was the throttle motor, it wasn't.  They cleaned & replaced a seal.  The idle is up other wise it dies all the time.  A few days ago, the kids left the lights on & the battery ran low.   It started fine, I drove 190 miles, but the battery wouldn't charge & the speedometer showed I was going 70 in a 30.  If you gave it gas, the needle would jump up like the rpm's.   It sat over night & the next day it was fine except for the dying.  Do you have any thoughts on this, so I can take it back to the shop & get this problem fixed?  It's a pain to have to keep restarting it or with your foot on the brake & gas.  Thanks, Pam

Answer: Its sounds like you have a fuel pump that is weak and you caused it to show up by running out of gas. Replace the fuel pump with new to recheck system.

Question: 1999 Ford Explorer, mileage: 56,000.  The auto will lose idle under various conditions.  For instance, when starting the auto after it has been sitting, the auto will stall because it won't stay idle.  It may do this 2 to 3 times a month without any warning.  Also, occasionally while driving, the auto will without warning lose idle when the accelerator is released.  You can keep the auto running by keeping your foot on the accelerator.  Finally, the auto will die while traveling at speeds of 45 mph or less in which the steering wheel will lock.  All of the above only occur periodically.  The dealership has replaced the fuel filter and checked all computer sensors without finding anything wrong.  The dealership hooked up a recording device to record the problem whenever it occurred but it failed to record anything because the auto would go dead.  Can you provide any information that we can pass along to the dealership to pinpoint this problem?  Thank-you for this service.

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would check for a weak idle speed motor may be causing your problem. Also it check the mass air flow sensor.

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