Answer:   First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would suggest a faulty crank angle sensor located in the back of the motor above the fly wheel.

Question: 1999 Dodge Caravan Mileage 123,000. The problem has happened three times in the last 4000 miles. I will be driving at 30 or 40 mph and the van loses power and I can hear a pinging and if I give it gas there is no power. I turned the van off and then on again and had the same problem. The first time I had it towed and a shop found nothing wrong. The second time I turned the van off and let it sit for 30 minutes. The van ran fine for another 2000 miles. Now it happened again and it soon cleared up after sitting for only five minutes. I called the auto shop and they think it may be the coil pack. The first time the computer gave no problems. I have changed the plugs, wires, O2 sensor, fuel filter, and added some injector cleaner. Should I change the coil pack?

Answer:   First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would suggest you may have crank angle sensor, coil pack or computer failure. Also, check for poor or loose ground connections.

Question:  1999 Chevrolet 1500 Van mileage: 142,000.  I have reviewed all of your questions and answers to see if anyone had a similar problem.  Found one that was close but not exact.  The car will start and run for about 20 seconds at normal start idle speed.  It then idles down too far and dies.  I was sure it was fuel pump/filter related so replaced both.  No help.  It will not restart unless you turn the key off and then on to start.  It acts like it resets a relay.  This was a sudden event.  There are no error codes in the computer.  I have checked coil/plugs/wires and all seems fine.  I have spark, fuel and compression are ok too.  I also suspected a vacuum leak but the lines seem ok.  It ran just perfect before this and sounds normal during the 20 seconds it does run.  This one really has me stumped.  I appreciate any advice you offer.

Answer:   First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would suggest replacing the idle air control motor and recheck.

Question: 2002 Nissan Maxima, miles: 79,000  My car is having problems a few problems.  It has trouble starting (whether the engine is cold or not), and also cuts out, like when stopping at a stoplight.  Both of these occurrences are random.  Sometimes the car works fine, and other times, I've had to get it towed to a service station.  When the car has trouble starting, the engine cranks, but doesn't always start.  When it cuts out, it can sometimes be started right back up, other times it does not.  I've had the fuel filter, and an electric module replaced.  The mechanics also tried switching the airflow sensor and the car's computer, but neither of these worked.   Please help!  I've been to three different mechanics (including the dealer) and no one knows what the problem is.

Answer: Intermittent problems are difficult to trace. First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would suggest replacing the fuel pump.

Question: 2002 Oldsmobile Alero, mileage: 68,000.  My car was shutting off while driving on the road. It did not shutter and stall, it was like the ignition just immediately shut off.  After pulling to the side of the road, the starter would work, but it wouldn't start.  After waiting about ten minutes, it would start and run well.   It became worst in that after about 15 to 30 minutes of the engine running, either on the road or idling in the driveway, the engine just shut off.  Fuel pressure and vacuum check ok.  Now the car won't start at all.  Starter motor works, but there is no spark at the plugs.  I have already replaced the three coil packs, the sparkplugs are fairly new, put in at about 60,000 miles and the wires look very good.  I put an ignition module on the car when it was cutting off on me, but that didn't fix the problem. No trouble codes were set when the car cut off it the past.  Now the trouble code is a 44, which I think means lean fuel.  I have check the wiring harness with an ohmmeter between the ignition module and the connector just before the computer and checked the connector the crankshaft position sensor for continuity and found no problem.  I removed the crankshaft pulley/ vibration dampener and cleaned the cps and the fins on the dampener, but it didn't help.  Would appreciate any help.  Any ideas?  Thanks,

Answer:   First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would suggest replacing the PCM.

Question: 1999 Ford Focus, mileage: 102,000.  The car when it starts idles good, but stalls when put in gear.  It stalls very easily and sometimes wont start and gas gets in the oil.   I have new spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor.  I do have a good spark.  I have checked the timing belt and all timing marks line up.  The check engine light does not come on.  I checked for codes with engine off and there are none.  I installed a new fuel filter and installed a gage in the fuel line and it is 37 psi.  I have installed a new air intake pipe because the old one had a hole in it, but there was no change.

Answer: It sounds like the idle speed control motor is weak and needs replacing to repair problem.

Question: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier mileage: 92,000.  I've been having an idle problem and a stalling problem with my car.  It happens once it get warm and it doesn't happen all the time.  The idle will stay a little under 1000 Rpms and it will stall...I also had it stall while going 75.  What might be causing this?  I already had these things replaced: EGR Valve, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, Air Filter, spark plugs, and a tune-up.  Help me please.

Answer:   First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would try replacing the fuel pump.

Question: 2002 Mercedes Benz, C280 mileage: 111,000.  My car dies when I come to a stop, once it's warmed up after having been driven for about 15-25 minutes. It's an automatic, but the characteristics of when it dies is like having a manual shift car and leaving it in 3 or 4th gear and coming to a stop without engaging the clutch.  It gets jerky and then dies.  I immediately put it in neutral and it starts right up, but when I try to put it in D [drive] again it dies as if I put it in a higher gear.  What could be causing this and how can it be fixed?  I've thought about changing the transmission fluid, but will that be enough?

Answer:  Your car has a lock-up torque converter in the transmission. It is supposed to disengage at lower speeds.  Yours is not disengaging.  There is probably a valve in the transmission “hanging up”.  Having the transmission serviced with new fluid may help the problem.

Question: 2005 Chevrolet Blazer, mileage: 44,000.  Blazer won't start at times at other times it does fine. Mechanic looked at car twice but couldn't get a read on the problem because it started every time he tried it.  The engine turns, I can hear the fuel pump turning on and off, everything else in car works fine but it simply won't turn over sometimes when you crank it leaving me stranded where ever I may be.  If you leave it alone for a few hours after initial fail, it will fire later

Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.  If no codes are present we would try replacing the fuel pump.

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