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Car Engine Stalls Questions
Question: 1995 GMC Jimmy, mileage: 189,000.
Has been in the shop numerous times and they can't seem to find the problem....
service light goes on and when you start it up in the morning you can smell the
fuel and it sounds like it wants to die out. Also, when you are driving it,
it seems like you do not go, like no gas. And it spurts. It’s
been on the computer numerous times and it shows nothing wrong.
Answer: Your stalling problem may be caused by the fuel pump. Replacing
it and the fuel filter should fix your problem.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet Lumina APV mileage: 96,137. We have had
this van in and out of two garages and we need an answer. When you go to start
the van it does not want to start, it use to do it when it was cold, now it does
it all the time, you have to pump the gas to get it started after that it runs fine.
Every thing has been checked and we have been told there is nothing they can do
with it. The spark plugs have been change because they were fouled out but
that is not the problem. Most of the time it would be cold out and it would
not start, it would just flood out and not start at all.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.
If no codes are present then try replacing the fuel pressure regulator.
Question: 2002 Mazda Tribute, miles: 78,900 Its been a great car,
recently when turning right the engine stalls, even more so when the gas tank is
half empty. Makes no difference what the road speed is. Please help.
Answer: You may have a cracked air intake boot, Inspect to replace
as needed, recheck system.
Question: 1999 Cadillac Sedan Deville mileage: 175,000. Once the
engine is warmed up, the car has a rough idle when sitting with the car in gear.
Occasionally, the car will stall. Cadillac said the injectors and computer
control module needed to be replaced. The extended warranty company wanted
a second opinion, and recommended a master mechanic in town. He has run computer
checks, ohm checks, and pressure checks, and still can't determine the problem.
I only use super unleaded gasoline from either Mobil or Chevron. I have tried
fuel injector cleaner, and that didn't help. There is no pattern of when the
car will stall. Occasionally it will idle fine, then the idle gets rough and
the car stalls. Please help with any possible suggestions of getting this
problem fixed.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.
If no codes are present try check for vacuum leaks.
Question: 2002 Ford Focus, mileage: 60,000. While traveling down
the road and without any warning, my car lost power and died. The car
is in general good repair, although I was due for a tune-up and oil change.
After recovering my car, I tried to turn it over with no luck. Almost seemed
like no compression. I pulled the distributor cap and tried starting it again
to see if the timing belt was broke. The rotor turned. I pulled
the oil filler cap off of the valve cover and tried starting again and this time
could see the cam turn, so I ruled out a broken timing belt. There was no
loud noise/explosion when the car died and no oil in the coolant and vice versa
so I ruled out head/head gasket problems. I jumped the fuel pump via the Data
Link Connector (DLC) and it started. Just for back-up, I pulled the air induction,
shot ether in the intake, and tried to start. Still no luck. Having
had similar experiences with other Fords, I deduced that it must be the Ignition
Control Module. I went ahead and replaced this item (at a hefty price I might
add) and tried to start. You guessed it, nothing. I checked for spark
via the first plug wire and nothing, so I then checked for spark directly from the
coil, nothing. I am beginning to think that it is the coil. However,
before I try another expensive shot in the dark remedy, I was curious what you thought.
In addition, can I purchase a portable unit to scan the car via the DLC? If
so where? (Also, I subsequently replaced the cap and rotor during all
this testing.)
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.
If no codes are present check the EEC relay that powers the computer is probably
faulty. Replacing it should cure your problem.
Question: 1999 Pontiac Firebird, mileage: 130,000. After replacing:
ignition coil, m/c solenoid, plugs, wires, distributor rotor & cap. My car
has been fouling plugs & running rich. It ran for 2 days, then stalls when
stopping & floods itself out. It will not start until I replace the plugs
(which smell of fuel). The service engine light does not come on, but choke
light will, off and on. Any help will be appreciated!
Answer: Check the fuel pressure regulator as it may be causing your
problems. Check for fuel in the vacuum line between the intake manifold and fuel
pressure regulator.
Question: 1999 Jeep Cherokee, mileage: 92,000. My check engine light
comes on - the trouble codes say its problem P0225 - idle air control sensor circuit.
The dealer and auto parts stores say there is no idle air control on my vehicle.
Then what is trouble code P0225 Alternatively, are they wrong? In addition,
in the morning when it is cold, you can start it fine but it will not stay running
unless you hold down the accelerator. It acts like an old car. Once
it is warmed up its ok. Please help - thank you.
Answer: The symptoms you describe could be a idle air control motor
failure. Your car does have a IAC located in the intake manifold, near the throttle
body.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet 1500 4x4 mileage: 179,000. First, it is
hard to start without pushing the pedal to the floor, and then it will run but very
erratic. I have to keep pressure on the pedal to keep it running. Even
with pressure on the pedal it will just die. The engine light does not come
on until the engine starts to run erratic and then dies. The code reader
says 12. My neighbor seems to think it might be the catalytic converter.
The Torque Converter lock-up switch is disconnected and I even tried the test with
the ERG valve disconnected. It has new wires and plugs, and O� sensor.
There is a tube that runs from the valve cover to what looks like the Throttle Body,
but when the truck is running it has no vacuum. Any ideas?
Answer: It sounds like the catalytic converter is plugged.
Also perform a fuel pressure test.
Question: 2004 Subaru Legacy, mileage: 17,363. My car sometimes,
hesitates, lacks power, runs rough, idles rough, and starts then stalls. I
have put on new plugs. I have also placed in my gas tank CD-2 fuel system treatment,
and STP Fuel Injector Cleaner. I would like to know what else might cause
this and what I should do to fix it. Thanks
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.
If no codes are present we would suggest checking fuel pressure.
Question: 1999 Ford F150, mileage: 87,000. While idling the engine,
without warning, stalls. It restarts right away. Driving on the road,
you can feel the engine cut off with a jerk intermittently but restart itself.
At a light or low speed, it just shuts down and has to be restarted. I changed
the oxygen sensor, plugs and still no luck. Can you help?
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.
If no codes are present we would suggest a mass air flow sensor has failed and operating
out of range.
Question: 1998 Pontiac Bonneville mileage: 75,000. The car has
an intermittent hard starting problem, particularly in hot weather. The engine
cranks, however there is no spark. The dealer replaced the ECM, however the
problem still occurs. The car will always start after sitting for about
five minutes. Crank sensor magnets have been checked and were ok. On
occasion the car has stalled while idling at a stoplight, however both times it
immediately restarted.
Answer: Check the fuel pressure regulator as it may be causing your
problems. Check for fuel in the vacuum line between the intake manifold and fuel
pressure regulator.
Question: 1997 Buick Century mileage: 180,000. For a while my car
has been stalling while I'm driving it. It can happen anytime, anywhere.
I took it to my mechanic who tried to get a code but could not get anything.
He thought it was an ignition module. He put one in the car and it was all
right when I brought it home. However, the next morning it would not
start very well. Got it started but then it stalled a couple of times that
day while accelerating. When it stalled, it took about 5 minutes to get it
going which it wasn't doing before I got it fixed. Took it back to the mechanic.
This time he got a code for a crank sensor. He put one in and said to try
the car. It still is doing the same thing. Therefore, what could this
problem be because it is dangerous driving a car that stalls like that?
Answer: Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter to repair your problem.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet Corsica mileage: 141,000. Just recently,
during the first mile of the day, the car will cut off. Sometimes, the
car will start again and run OK. Other times the motor will start and run
but the car will not go. I have had a mechanic check it and he can find nothing
wrong. ?
Answer: Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter to repair your problem.
MORE: Engine stalling questions
Repair Topics /
Stalls /
Stalls-1
/ Stalls-2
/ Stalls-3
/ Stalls-4
/ Stalls-5
/ Stalls-6
/ Stalls-7
/ Stalls-8
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