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Car Engine Stalls Questions
Question: 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier mileage: 78,000.
Car starts and runs fine in cold weather, but after driving for about 5 minutes,
the engine stalls. It will crank but will not restart until the engine is
cold again. Possible solutions greatly appreciated. Thanks very much.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present test the fuel pump for pressure at the time of stalling.
Question: 2005 Ford F150 Truck, mileage: 31,000. With a half of
a tank on gas or less, when I make a sharp turn (mostly right-hand) or I make anything
other that a very slow, smooth stop, I stall the truck. Any ideas?
Answer: The problem is with the idle air control motor, replace
with to repair problem.
Question: 1998 Dodge Intrepid mileage: 115,000. Engine dies at any
speed. Most times is hard to restart but at times will restart by itself while
coasting to stop. Both computers and cam sensor and coil replaced, did not
fix. Engine dies cold, hot, and in-between. Dealer checked
these things and others including ignition switch and wiring. Water pump and
timing belt and battery replaced.
Answer: Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem.
Question: 1994 Dodge Ram Van, mileage: 134,000. It just recently
started to sputter and die. It runs decent at idle, but when you push on the acc
it runs like its missing are starving for gas. I changed the plugs, wires, checked
the timing. What else could cause this to run rough? Could it be a fuel pump
going out? Valve problem? I’m stumped. I don’t believe it’s a filter,
it’s in the tank, what else is left?
Answer: Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem. The fuel pump is
in the tank.
Question: 1998 Plymouth Voyager, mileage: 115,000. Van stalls only
in cold weather when at a stop or shifting to reverse from park. Will sometimes
stall while slowing down before a stop or while slowly turning into parking space.
It will idle ok in park. Have replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, TPS, and EGR.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Answer: Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine
management system. An independent auto service center can scan your computer
for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning
components. Also, check for vacuum leaks and have the fuel injection system
serviced. Clean the carbon deposits from the throttle bore and idle passages.
Question: 1997 Chevrolet Blazer, mileage: 130,000. Upon warming
up, the truck stalls out every 2 to 3 miles. After a complete stop,
the truck starts right up again and goes for a few miles before stalling again.
I replaced the catalytic converter, and the muffler thinking the truck could not
breathe, but there is still no change. I noticed when it stalls that you can
smell exhaust around the truck, that’s why I changed the exhaust system.
Answer: Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem.
Question: 1997 Mercury Grand Marquee mileage: 154,000. Within the
past 6 months, the car has had a stalling problem and rough Idle. Than
a month ago, it stalled and would start. Try to jump it, wouldn't take
a jump. Had it hauled off to the garage. They put a new battery in,
did some adjusting to the Idle. It work for a few days, Than it starting stalling
again but, not bad, but, progress to worsen over the month to the point it would
stall over and over again before catching. Once moving it wouldn't stall, unless
it was in park. Took it back to the garage. This time they put a new throttle sensor
or something on that line. I picked up today, drove it for five minutes
seem to be driving well, stop at a store. Got back in and it wouldn't start.
Jump it, started up, shut off, no start. Could there be a short somewhere,
or starter. We had a probable with one of the electric windows this past summer,
couldn't get to come up. Moved the wirer in the inside panel, window
went up. Could this be the problem?
Answer: Here are some things to check. Load test the battery.
Check that the battery cable connections are clean. Check for 12 volts to
starter solenoid with the key in the start position. These things should
be checked first then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid. One
of these may be faulty. Also, check charging system. Here is the procedure
we use to isolate a battery drain. Remove negative battery cable from the
battery. Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative battery
post the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected. The
test light will glow or “light” if there is a drain. If the “light or glow”
is faint, that is probably normal draw for the clock or computer. If the “light
or glow” is bright, then there is a large drain. That should be corrected.
Now start removing and replacing the fuses one by one until the light goes out;
that one will be the circuit with the drain. Remember to hold in the button
in the door jam for the interior lights.
Question: 1998 Plymouth Voyager, mileage: 115,000. Whenever the
temperature gets below 50 deg. the van will stall when coming to a stop and or switching
to reverse. It will also idle rough. Van runs great at all other times.
Have replaced EGR valve, TPS, air motor, cap and rotor, wires and plugs. Any
help would be much appreciated!
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present test the fuel pump for pressure at the time of stalling.
Question: 1995 Ford Escort LX mileage: 64,000. When I come to a
stop the car stalls; when I start it back up it starts right away. I
just had a tune up and a new battery put in as well as fuel injector fluid and timing
belt. This problem happens when I come to a stop even if it is in park.
I noticed that if I have the a/c on it's less likely for it to stall, but it has
stalled once with the a/c on...also the idle seems fine...(it’s an automatic, but
has a tachometer) and the tac is not shaking like if there was an idle problem.
If you can help me, I’d appreciate it. I’ve been to 3 mechanics and they've
been no help just doing things I don't think I even needed.... thanks!
Answer: Check the catalytic converter to make sure it is not “plugged”
or restricted. Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management
system. You can scan your car using a hand held scanner for your trouble codes.
The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.
Question: 1997 Jaguar XK8 mileage 100,000. The car will suddenly
cut off power. Usually when turning a corner or after stopping; at a light
or stop sign. I've recently replaced the alternator and the battery maintains proper
voltage. I also replaced the cold starter sensor. Any suggestions would
be appreciated. Thank you.
Answer: Here are several other things that may be causing your problem.
But it sounds like a fuel pump could cause the problem.
Question: 1999 Pontiac Grand Am mileage: 150,000. The car will start
very well when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it begins to sputter and miss
and then dies. I've replaced the coil. I also cleaned the injectors.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes
are present check for vacuum leaks, check the fuel pump pressure and flow.
Replace as needed to repair problem.
Question: 1998 Honda Accord. mileage: 124,000. When I drive my car
it shuts off on me and when I try to start it back up, it only cranks but will not
start. After about twenty or thirty minutes, it cuts back on only to happen
again after a while. Could it be the fuel pump?
Answer: The fuel pump is a possibility but more likely, your problem
is the ignition distributor.
Question: 2002 Cadillac Seville, mileage: 81,000. Please help me! It starts
up fine. As soon as it reaches operating temperature, it quits. It will not restart
until the engine is cold. It seems like the engine is running too rich at this point.
I have run out of ideas. Does this sound like a bad EGR valve or possibly some kind
of sensor? Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. Check the
temperature sensors. One is for coolant temperature the other for air temperature.
Sounds like one has failed.
Question: 2002 Volvo S80 2.9L Turbo, mileage: 70,110. While driving in
rainy conditions, the engine died giving it gas on an uphill grade. Now it won't
start again.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor or fuel pump as needed.
Here are some things to have checked: 1. Check to see if the timing belt has failed,
2. Check for ignition spark at spark plugs, 3. Check for fuel pressure.
Question: 2001 Toyota Camry, mileage: 62,000. My car has
been dying at stoplights after I have been driving it over 50 mph. It has an automatic
transmission. If I shift down from Drive through the gears to first, it will sometimes
not stall. It never stalls in town, only after it has gone into 4th. I don't know
if it has to do with the fuel delivery system, or the transmission. Any ideas on
what it is and how much it would be to fix it? Thank you for your time!
Answer: We don’t think your problem is fuel related. Your
car has a locked torque converter in the transmission. It locks-up only in 4th
gear. It is supposed to disengage at lower speeds. Yours is not disengaging. There
is probably a valve in the transmission "hanging up". Having the transmission serviced
with new fluid may help the problem.
Question: 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 mileage: 120,000. My truck will run for
about 5 miles then when I take my foot off the accelerator, it dies and won’t start
again for about 30 min then it runs good again. The truck has been sitting for about
a year.
Answer: First, if possible, when your truck dies and will not restart,
check for spark at the ignition coil. If no spark, the ignition module may be failing.
Also, check for fuel pressure. If no fuel, replace fuel pump.
Question: 1999 Plymouth Voyager, mileage: 97,000. My Mini
van seems to run okay but every so often when you come to a stoplight it drops right
off and shuts off, it can be easily started again and the problem is only occasional.
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes
using a hand held scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed.
If no codes are present then try replacing the idle air control motor.
Question: 2002 Nissan Sentra 1.8, 43,000 miles. After my car warms up it
dies when I push in the clutch and it is in gear. I put a new fuel filter on and
it did not help. What should I try?Answer: First
scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present then try replacing the idle
air control motor.
Question: 1999 GMC Sierra Pickup, miles: 121,000. I have a GMC pickup
and for the last few weeks, it has been stalling out and will not restart but if
I wait a few seconds sometimes it will start and other times, it won't. I had it
into the dealer and it didn't stall out on them so they checked a number of things
and didn't find anything wrong; I did have the fuel filter replaced but it’s still
stalling out. What do you think it could be? The dealer cannot seem to find it.
Answer: Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem.
Question: 2002 Mazda 6, miles: 63,000. While driving down the interstate
at 65 miles per hour, it just died, shut down. Could not jump start, engine does
crank over but will not start. All fuses are okay, what do you think? Please help.
Answer: It sounds like you may have a dead or shorted battery,
check the state of charge and check the alternator output. Should be between 13.2
and 14.1 volts.
Question: 2001 Mazda B3300,miles: 78,000. Recently, I have a problem with
the car choking and dying whenever I put my gear in any forward position "D, S or
L". Reverse is fine. I can drive the car (reverse only). Idle is fine (can rev).
Trans is fine (fluid is red). No oil leaking. No AC. No "check lights" on. I did
step on the gas and put gear in D. It drove chopping, choking and revving up and
down like crazy. However, when I come to a stop it chokes and dies. I suspect the
fuel system. I think it is the filter (but looks new). Could I be in the big hole
on this? Fuel injectors or dirty gas tank?
Answer: First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held scanner, Then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no
codes are present we would suggest carefully checking the wiring in the engine compartment.
What may be occurring is the engine moves or "rocks" in one direction in reverse
and the other direction in drive. This engine movement may be pulling on the wiring
causing the engine to die. Check for broken motor mounts also.
MORE: Engine stalling questions
Repair Topics /
Stalls /
Stalls-1
/ Stalls-2
/ Stalls-3
/ Stalls-4
/ Stalls-5
/ Stalls-6
/ Stalls-7
/ Stalls-8
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