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Car Engine Smog Inspection Test Questions - This category contains featured
questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet Malibu mileage: 45,000. In trying to get this car passed
in a smog test. The tech told my son to drive the car for 1 hour to "run" the monitors
and then bring it in for the test. We do not drive the car very much and is it possible
that we have not driven it enough to “run” the monitor? Thanks for the help.
Answer: There is no set time the monitors with complete there
test cycle. Drive your car at least 20 miles, most cars will reset by then.
Question: 2002 Ford Ranger, mileage: 96,000. My truck passes
all the emissions test except for NOX. I have taken it twice now to get a smog and
the first time the NOX was 721 at 15 mph 1457 at 25 mph and the max is 986 at 15
mph and 846 at 25 mph. The second time I took it, it was at 15 mph 773 and at 25
mph 1283. So it passes at 15 mph every time but won't at 25. I just got a new EGR
valve. So somehow I need the NOX to go down 400 ppm. If you guys could help that
would be great.
Answer: You may have a partially plugged exhaust passage
that feeds the EGR valve. Also try replacing the oxygen senor with a new unit.
Question: 1974 Jaguar XJ12L, miles: 78,000 My Jag failed the smog check
again this year. The smog check station mechanic said that I need to have a Jaguar
mechanic adjust the carburetors (4 carburetors) because the idle HC was 1405 the
normal is 550. Does the Jag need carburetor repair/overhaul or just need adjustment
of the 4 carburetors gas/air mixture? I can smell a strong odor of gas when I pop
the trunk open.
Answer: Adjusting the carburetors may bring the hydrocarbons
down to an acceptable level. Make sure the carburetors are evenly balanced so that
each one draws the same amount of air. Also, check for vacuum leaks. The strong
gas odor when you pop the trunk is definitely something to look at. You may have
a rubber hose on the fuel line that is leaking.
Question: 2002 Isuzu Rodeo mileage: 88,000. Can't pass Calif. smog test.
H/C is way high, even at idle (in Calif. they call this a 'gross polluter'), l everything
else is OK - car runs fine. Had tune up done - plugs, wires, filters, oil, adjust
timing, etc. Still way high on H/C levels. Mechanic replaced throttle body gasket,
which was worn. I've had most of the general upkeep on the car done, major tune-ups
and a few minor ones. Oil changes, by and large. Use 'regular' gas though. Mechanic
says there is carbon buildup in the cylinders, and compression for each cylinder
reads: 1 - 165; 2 - 205; 3 - 185; 4 - 195; 5 - 205; 6 - 130. Mechanic wants to re-build
engine - says it's the only way. Cost is about $5200. (Does that seem high?) Says
he can't get a re-built anywhere locally and needs to have my motor re-built. Says
new motor from Isuzu would cost more than $6200 to buy and install. Engine SEEMS
to run basically fine. Idles great, runs fine. Never any trouble. Doesn't shoot
out dark smoke or anything when I start it or drive it, although you can see from
tailpipe that there is a fair amount of carbon buildup there. Had trouble passing
smog test twice before. Should I pay to replace the cat and O2 sensor, betting that
this might fix the problem? Or will the carbon deposits and bad compression force
me to need a new motor regardless?
Answer: Before you spend money on a rebuilt engine, we would suggest
scanning the computer for fault codes. Replacing the mass air flow sensor and the
oxygen sensor would be a good idea. The compression numbers, although not ideal,
are not that bad.
Question: 1999 Subaru Outback, mileage: 117,000. Runs really good, but
won't pass Calif. smog. Any pointers for things to replace, where to buy and list
in the order of highest probability of causing smog check failure. I replaced, oil
filer, air filter, PCV, wires, spark plugs, I don't know too much about the EGR
Valve, Anti-After burn Valve, and ECS canister...novice mechanic but can follow
directions...any advice appreciated. Also, I need a driver's seat and have been
unable to locate one.
Answer: Its sounds like your catalytic converter or oxygen
sensor has failed. Test to replace as needed, recheck system.
Question: 1997 Ford F-250 mileage: 150,000. Thanks for all of the great info
on your page. A wealth of info to say the least. I have a question for you of which
I am stumped. Living in Arizona I need to pass emissions and thus the need to correct
something with the fuel injection or emissions and I am hoping you can help. I just
bought a Ford F250 7.5ltr with 150,000 miles on it. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor,
cap, and made sure all hoses are connected. The idle was kind of high the first
time I went in (~1500 rpm in park). The first emission test: HC (Hydrocarbons PPM)
Loaded 185 (300 pass) Idle 275 (300 Pass) CO (Carbon Monoxide %) Loaded 2.53 (3.00
pass) Idle 5.2 (4.00 FAIL) I replaced the PCV, Next test: HC Loaded --> 181 (OK)
Idle 558 <--FAIL CO Loaded --> 2.08 (OK) Idle 8.37 <---FAIL BIG TIME! The previous
owner put some type of hand valve between the PCV and the port on the intake manifold.
It looked like it was perpendicular to the line (off) during the first test thus
I opened it for the second test. I am unsure the reason behind putting a hand valve
there? What do you think? O2 sensor? Timing? Any help would be great... Thanks again
for your helpful site.Answer: Scan the PCM for trouble codes, It sounds
like you have a mass air flow sensor that is weak. If no codes are present try replacing
it with a new unit to recheck system.
Question: 1998 Plymouth Acclaim mileage: 120,000. I failed the emissions
testing at my local inspection station. I had about 1800 NOx where my standard is
970 NOx. Al the others were fine, what can I my-self do to help lower this emission
so I don't have to spend so much money with a professional.
Answer: Check the operation of the EGR valve. If it is okay,
you may have to replace the catalytic converter.
Question: 2001 Toyota Pickup Tundra mileage: 50,000. I cannot get this
truck through smog. The readings are great at Idle, but at 2500 rpm there is 2%
CO 30 ppm HC 1% O2 and 13.5% CO2. I know this is a rich running condition. I have
changed the 02 sensor, and nothing. Before I replace the injectors, I wanted to
ask you guys. Thanks
Answer: Your mass air flow sensor or oxygen sensor may be the problem,
scan your PCM for trouble codes to repair as needed.
Question: 1999 Ford Explorer mileage: 106,000. My Explorer will not pass
inspection because emissions are too high. A friend told me that one of the cylinders
is not firing. He checked the compression and the reason is that the valves are
not operating properly. There are no valve adjustments for this year. What other
options do I have?
Answer: Check for a flat camshaft. If okay, perform a cylinder
leak down test, which will pinpoint which valve is causing the problems. You may
have to remove and repair the cylinder head to correct this.
Question: 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix mileage: 90,000. My car failed emissions
testing with a high HC rating at high speed and idle. I changed the spark plugs,
air filter, oil, and oil filter. When I returned for a retest, the high-speed passed
with HC well below the standard. However, the HC rose from 363 ppm to 426 at idle,
so it failed the second time as well. I've also noticed that sometimes when it starts,
the engine will almost die, but then the choke kicks in and shoots the RPM up. It
then seems to idle fine. Sometimes as well, when the transmission is in gear, the
engine will oscillate and almost die, then speed back up to idle, then almost die,
and so forth. Any ideas?
Answer: Scan the PCM for fault codes and also check the oxygen
sensor and mass air flow sensor.
Question: 1999 Pontiac Firebird Formula mileage: 90,000. We recently
acquired a Firebird Formula with a fuel injection engine. It has high mileage but
ran extremely well with a smooth idle and great pickup until last week when we had
a diagnostic done on it because it failed emissions testing. The diagnostic
supposedly revealed a leaking intake manifold gasket and the need for a new spark
plugs and plug wires. This car was running fine when we took it in and barely
running when we picked it up. It is difficult to start, idles so low that
it dies whenever you slow down or stop, and sounds like it is missing very badly
when it's just sitting and idling. The place that did the diagnostic had no
idea of a cause for the instant change in the way the car was running and no suggestions
as to how to restore it to how it was, just that nothing they did would have caused
it. We put on the new gasket (which by the way didn't look bad at all to us)
as well as a couple other inexpensive parts like a thermostat and PCV valve while
we had it all apart, and also put a new distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and plug
wires on it as advised. Unfortunately, it is still the same as it was when
we picked it up. It seems like we have checked everything but can't find anything
disconnected or any cause for the low idle. We also do not understand why
the computer module won't compensate for the idle because it appears to adjust other
things when they are changed. Could something simple have happened when the
diagnostic was done to cause this drastic change, or could it have caused a problem
we can't figure out? Our inclination is to have another diagnostic done somewhere
else to see what shows up but any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Answer: It sounds like you have a failed injector on one or more of the
cylinders. Inspect injector to replace as needed, recheck system.
Question: 2001 Cadillac Seville STS mileage: 80,000. Could not pass
California smog, all readings with the exception of NOx were way below minimum.
NOx was ok at idle and 15 mph after that item went off scale. What should
I look at first EGR or catalytic converter (its the original)? Any other hints
would be more than helpful. Thanks
Answer: Try the EGR first as the passages may be plugged or the valve
not opening properly. It is also the easiest solution, next check the catalytic
converter.
Question: 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis mileage: 132,000. I cannot
pass emissions testing. I first brought my car in and failed on HC and CO.
About a week later I tried again burning premium fuel and after adding some emission
system cleaner. I was still high on CO and HC. So then, I changed the
air filter spark plugs and ignition wires. I then went back and tested again.
I added some rubbing alcohol to my fuel tank to try to get it to burn a bit cleaner.
My CO and HC jumped about 50% each. I do not want to sink too much money into
this car. What should I do? Oxygen Sensor? Get the computer checked?
Answer: Scan your PCM for trouble codes, if no codes present
try replacing the oxygen sensor, mass air flow sensor.
Question: 1999 Dodge 1500 Van mileage: 120,000. Where we live at
we have an annual Emission Test for our vehicles. This year my van did not
pass. I changed the spark plugs, wires, but would not pass any ideas?
Answer: Make sure it has been tuned up and that the fuel injection is
clean. Then check your catalytic converter performance, replace as needed.
Question: 2000 Ford Ranger mileage: 83,500. When I took it in to
get it inspected, the guy told me that it was very close, but not quite passing
on the low end. I had new plugs and plug wires put in approximately 3 months
before, and since I took it in, I put in a new air filter and new PCV valve.
I have always run mid-grade gas in it. Could you give me any more suggestions?
Answer: Scan the PCM for trouble codes, if no codes are present try replacing
the mass air flow sensor and primary oxygen sensors.
Question: 1998 Buick Le Sabre mileage: 126,000. I inherited this
car and it fails emissions test. There are no fault codes, car runs well except
for a loping idle and sometimes a spit and die at idle. HC and CO are way
out of range. O2 reads .8v at idle. Exhaust smells very rich.
I have replaced the ECT and TP sensors, plugs, wires and filters. Fuel pressure
is 40 psi. I need voltage specs for the TP and MAF sensors.
Answer: Reference voltage is 5 volts at the sensor. Fuel pressure
should be 35 pounds. Check compression and check for vacuum leaks also check
that the EGR valve is not hanging up. Replace Oxygen sensor.
Question: 1988 Nissan Sentra 1.6 tbi,_mileage: 200,000. I
can’t pass emissions. Limits are HC 220, CO 1.20. I read HC 318, CO 5.63. Airflow
meter & ISC read ok. Timing is ok. Valve job two yrs ago (broken belt). O� sensor
1 yr ago. Car runs ok. HELP!
Answer: The reasons for the high emission are numerous. The
list starts with a malfunctioning catalytic converter, a faulty engine management
computer system to a "tired" engine with excessive blow by and using oil.
Question: 1982 Toyota Pickup mileage: 135,000 My 2 wheel
drive, 3 speed manual, recently didn't pass smog here in California for an exhaust
leak and missing a vacuum hose from what looks like the EGR valve, but there are
no hoses that are not hanging anywhere that aren't hooked up. So where do I start?
The catalytic converter and muffler and O2 sensor have been replaced recently and
are they all good? Help Please!
Answer: You can fabricate a doctor's ear and start at the exhaust manifold
all the way to the end side of the C/Converter. You are probably leaking ahead of
the converter and not being scrubbed/cleaned and polluting the air. You failed on
this one.
The EGR prevents NOx to formed-it is operated by a ported vacuum thru a TVSV/VSV/Transducer,
you need to confirm this with the VECI on the hood as per its routing.
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