Repair Topics / Shakes-1 / Shakes-2

Car Shakes While Driving Questions

Question:  2003 BMW X5 mileage: 61,000. Experienced serious shaking and vibrating with the entire car; happened for a few minutes, then went away. Next time I'd drive, it would be fine for ten minutes then the vibration begins again. Escalated to a point where I thought the engine would drop to the road because the vibration was so bad. Took it to dealership; "firing" problem, leak, or so the computer diagnosis said. They replaced spark plugs, gasket cover and thermostat to a tune of over $700 dollars. Drove away and within ten minutes it shakes and vibrates, as bad or worse then before. What could it be now? Obviously, it wasn't the plugs and gasket cover!

Answer:   It sounds like the engine is miss-firing still, scan the PCM to isolate the cylinder then replace the ignition coil for that cylinder.

Question: 1996 Jaguar XJ-6 mileage: 110,000. My Jaguar XJ-6 is quite possibly the best car I have ever owned. I'm now approaching 120,000 miles and the engine shows no signs of giving up. Outside of a new thermostat and regular preventive maintenance, it takes little more than gas money from my wallet. The problem I have recently encountered is a slight shaking noise in the front passenger side when accelerating hard from a dead stop. The vehicle does weigh more than 5000 lbs, only makes this sound below 8-10 mph, and then goes away as speed increases.

Answer:   Check your cars engine mounts, it sounds like one is starting to soften or is broken allowing the engine to move to one side causing the exhaust system to contact the under body making the noise.

Question: 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD, miles: 96,000 I just purchased this vehicle 1 month ago in EXCEPTIONAL condition but it has a BIG problem. Sometimes when driving at or around highway speeds, 35+, and any sort of "bump" (crease in the road, uneven pavement, ripple in pavement made from heavy machinery, anything that would cause a quick movement of the suspension) is driven over, the whole front of the vehicle shakes VIOLENTLY, the steering and steering wheel shakes and becomes almost uncontrollable and I have to pull over or slow to <15 mph for it to stop. It's like the vehicle picks up a vibration and then it resonates through the entire front end. It is VERY scary when it happens because usually it is on the highway in traffic at 50-70 mph. When I hit "bumps" at speeds >35 mph, I can sense that the front end is not "tight" but the vibration is causes does not get bad at all and if I hadn't experienced sheer terror at 70 mph 3 times before, I wouldn't notice. What is wrong? I took it into the Dealership where I purchased the Jeep (not a Jeep dealer) they took it for a test drive and since they couldn't duplicate the problem, they had no advice. My guess is that there must be a stabilizer or something that is broken or lose up front. My Jeep does not feel safe to drive.

Answer:   Check the front suspension thoroughly for wear, then check alignment, not enough camber can cause tire isolation (very violent). If that doesn't work you may want to install an aftermarket steering stabilizer. They are available at most off-road parts suppliers. This is especially true if you have oversized tires and rims on your vehicle.

Question:   1997 Toyota Camry, miles: 145,000. The car shakes when it is in gear with the brake on. The shaking subsides when the car is in park or neutral and seems to get worse the warmer the engine gets. I have had 3 new engine mounts (all except the transmission mount) replaced plus diagnostics computer test of all systems ($750) and she is still shaking. Help! Losing my fillings in OHIO,

Answer:   Check for for a tune up, make sure all cylinders are operating properly, a compression check, inspect for vacuum leaks and check to make sure the EGR valve is closed at idle and not leaking.

Question: 1997 Ford Explorer XLT mileage: 54,000.  I recently purchased the vehicle and have noticed that the ride is very uncomfortable.  There is shaking and I feel very bump in the road.  Is this just because it’s a SUV?  Another co-worker has the same problem, which makes me believe I am not alone.  Also, it says its ALL Wheel Drive.  What does that mean exactly.  Some people said that it is a 4-wheel drive, but there is no knob to switch to 4 wheel.

Answer: Most SUV (sports utility vehicle) type vehicles do have a firm ride as they have the similar suspensions as light duty trucks.  Your explorer is equipment with all wheel drive, which is always engaged, and there is no switch to disengage it.

Question: 1999 Dodge Intrepid  mileage: 93,461.  My car jerks two to three times when just about coming to a stop.  This is intermittent and only happens when slowly stopping and is sometimes very pronounced.  Feels like the transmission incorrectly shifting but dealer says nothing wrong.  It is worse when car has been driven for longer periods of time.  What can be the problem?  No codes indicating transmission problem.

Answer: Your car has a lock-up torque converter in the transmission.  It locks-up only in high gear.  It is supposed to disengage at lower speeds.  Yours is not disengaging.  There is probably a valve in the transmission “hanging up”.  The valve body will have to be removed and cleaned paying special attention to the TCC solenoid.  The TCC solenoid may have to be replaced.

Question: 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan mileage: 130,000. I am having a problem with a wheel shimmy in the front passenger side. It only seems to happen when first starting to accelerate and is more pronounced on right hand turns.  It seems to go away at speeds above 20-25 Mph.  I have had it checked by my mechanic, he replaced the 2 struts, 2 strut mounts, a motor mount and did an alignment and this did not solve the problem.  If you could send me in the right direction, I would appreciate it!

Answer: Try replacing axle assemblies, both left and right axles should be replaced.  Also, check the tires for cord separation.

Question: 1999 Ford F-350 mileage: 30,000.  I have a f-350 that is giving me considerable sway getting up to highway speed and on deceleration but not so much at cruising speed.  I have new 4 ply radials, balanced, proper inflation, etc.  I have 3'' springs, 6 leafs.  I have utility body, welder, torches, and tools on board, but am well under gross vehicle weight.  Leaf springs do have a little squat to them.  Would helper springs be in order or should I be looking elsewhere?  Also has rear anti-sway bar.

Answer:   Your swaying problem may be due to worn out front end components.  Replace failed tie rod ends, drag link, and all bushings as needed, then realign.

Question: 2002 Ford Thunderbird mileage: 43,000.  Last August a small shudder showed up when the car shifted into 3rd gear (automatic) and the engine was under a slight uphill load. This only occurred when I was very lightly pressing on the gas pedal.  If I accelerate even a small amount, the shudder goes away.  Over the past few months its gotten worse, meaning more frequent.  But I have noticed that it never happens when the engine is cold.   It has to warm up for a while.  I have had it to a transmission shop that comes highly recommended.  They say there is nothing wrong with my tranny or torch converter. There is one more observation worth noting.  When it does occur and I can keep it in the 'shudder mode', it sort of cycles in and out of the mode, cyclically and very periodically like it is part of a failing servo loop or something.  If I were to guess, I would say it’s like the fuel to the engine is being modulated like the system erroneously thinks, the engine is running to rich so it leans the mixture, which causes the engine to stumble slightly.  This stumble (shudder) causes the system to richen the mixture and the engine pulls harder, then the process starts over again a few moments later.  I have thought about seeing if I could find the oxygen sensor and unplugging it to see if that would affect the problem.

Answer:   It sound like you need a major tune up including spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter and air filter. Replace as needed to repair problem.

Question: 1999 Dodge Caravan mileage: 110,000.  Hi Guys, well I put in new half shafts at 99,000 miles, a 1,000 miles later both where out.  I replaced struts, motor mounts, new tires, brakes calipers and rotors.  I had the Dodge dealer align the front end and check the motor mount alignment.   Now at 110,000 miles, there is one out again.  Any reason why or is it because they are rebuilt; they where purchased at Napa.  It shakes between 30 to 45 mph then lets up past that or if take your foot of the gas.  Thanks

Answer: Try replace the CV joints with new parts.  Some of the rebuilt units use old CV joints instead of installing new parts. You can find quality auto parts at eAutoPartStore.com

Question: 1998 Chevy Cavalier Z-24 mileage: 103,000. When traveling in residential areas or where slow speed is required, the car starts shaking violently.  This occurs whenever I try to maintain speed around 25 MPH (second gear).  Above this speed the shaking stops.  Below 25 MPH, it does not shake either.  When idling, the car has a noticeable smoky exhaust.  I was inspecting the tail pipe and noticed a carbon powder build up around the end of the pipe.  I have so far replaced the Idle Speed Sensor and Throttle Positioning Motor.  I bought an oxygen sensor and have not yet installed it.  I am not sure what else to do.  The plugs and wires were recently replaced.  I use premium oil when I change the oil (about every 5000 miles).  I pinged the ECM and got trouble codes 22, 35, and 44, but I am not sure what they mean.  Any suggestions would be most helpful.

Answer:   Code 22 is – low TOS voltage.  Code 35 is IAC speed error.  Code 44 is lean exhaust.  A compression check would be a good idea also.

Question: 1999 Acura Integra mileage: 120,000.  Strange vibration. 5 spd trans, in 3rd gear accelerating hard from 35 mph to 60 mph, engine oscillates and brings steering wheel and gearshift vibration to extreme.  Can be felt in other gears.  I have balanced tires, cut rotors, replaced front center motor mount, and reduced vibration by 50%.  It seems root cause of vibration still exists.  On rack with brakes applied and torque applied to drive line engine seems to set up an oscillation when brakes and engine speed simulate road condition noted above.  Found right upper motor mount body securing bolt shifted to left side of car (tight), when loosened motor shifted to right side of car and some of the vibration was eliminated.  It does not appear that axle shafts are bent or Michelin tires have hidden defects.  Note: rack test was with and without tires --still vibration.   Has anyone seen this problem before?  Please help.  Thanks!

Answer:   Yes we have seen similar problems.  The CV joints on the drive axles are probably worn out.  Replacing them should fix your problem.

Repair Topics / Shakes-1 / Shakes-2

Replace Air Filter

Check Engine Light