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Repair Topics / Shakes-1 / Shakes-2
Car Shakes While Driving Questions This
category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 2003 BMW X5
mileage: 61,000. Experienced serious shaking and
vibrating with the entire car; happened for a few
minutes, then went away. Next time I'd drive, it would
be fine for ten minutes then the vibration begins again.
Escalated to a point where I thought the engine would
drop to the road because the vibration was so bad. Took
it to dealership; "firing" problem, leak, or so the
computer diagnosis said. They replaced spark plugs,
gasket cover and thermostat to a tune of over $700
dollars. Drove away and within ten minutes it shakes and
vibrates, as bad or worse then before. What could it be
now? Obviously, it wasn't the plugs and gasket cover!
Answer: It sounds like the engine is
miss-firing still, scan the PCM to isolate the cylinder
then replace the ignition coil for that cylinder.
Question: 1996 Jaguar XJ-6 mileage:
110,000. My Jaguar XJ-6 is quite possibly the best car I
have ever owned. I'm now approaching 120,000 miles and
the engine shows no signs of giving up. Outside of a new
thermostat and regular preventive maintenance, it takes
little more than gas money from my wallet. The problem I
have recently encountered is a slight shaking noise in
the front passenger side when accelerating hard from a
dead stop. The vehicle does weigh more than 5000 lbs,
only makes this sound below 8-10 mph, and then goes away
as speed increases.
Answer: Check your cars engine
mounts, it sounds like one is starting to soften or is
broken allowing the engine to move to one side causing
the exhaust system to contact the under body making the
noise.
Question: 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Laredo 4WD, miles: 96,000 I just purchased this vehicle
1 month ago in EXCEPTIONAL condition but it has a BIG
problem. Sometimes when driving at or around highway
speeds, 35+, and any sort of "bump" (crease in the road,
uneven pavement, ripple in pavement made from heavy
machinery, anything that would cause a quick movement of
the suspension) is driven over, the whole front of the
vehicle shakes VIOLENTLY, the steering and steering
wheel shakes and becomes almost uncontrollable and I
have to pull over or slow to <15 mph for it to stop.
It's like the vehicle picks up a vibration and then it
resonates through the entire front end. It is VERY scary
when it happens because usually it is on the highway in
traffic at 50-70 mph. When I hit "bumps" at speeds >35
mph, I can sense that the front end is not "tight" but
the vibration is causes does not get bad at all and if I
hadn't experienced sheer terror at 70 mph 3 times
before, I wouldn't notice. What is wrong? I took it into
the Dealership where I purchased the Jeep (not a Jeep
dealer) they took it for a test drive and since they
couldn't duplicate the problem, they had no advice. My
guess is that there must be a stabilizer or something
that is broken or lose up front. My Jeep does not feel
safe to drive.
Answer: Check the front
suspension thoroughly for wear, then check alignment,
not enough camber can cause tire isolation (very
violent). If that doesn't work you may want to install
an aftermarket steering stabilizer. They are available
at most off-road parts suppliers. This is especially
true if you have oversized tires and rims on your
vehicle.
Question: 1997 Toyota Camry,
miles: 145,000. The car shakes when it is in gear with
the brake on. The shaking subsides when the car is in
park or neutral and seems to get worse the warmer the
engine gets. I have had 3 new engine mounts (all except
the transmission mount) replaced plus diagnostics
computer test of all systems ($750) and she is still
shaking. Help! Losing my fillings in OHIO,
Answer: Check for for a tune
up, make sure all cylinders are operating properly, a
compression check, inspect for vacuum leaks and check to
make sure the EGR valve is closed at idle and not
leaking.
Question: 1997
Ford Explorer XLT mileage: 54,000. I recently
purchased the vehicle and have noticed that the ride is
very uncomfortable. There is shaking and I feel
very bump in the road. Is this just because it’s a
SUV? Another co-worker has the same problem, which
makes me believe I am not alone. Also, it says its
ALL Wheel Drive. What does that mean exactly.
Some people said that it is a 4-wheel drive, but there
is no knob to switch to 4 wheel.
Answer: Most SUV (sports utility
vehicle) type vehicles do have a firm ride as they have
the similar suspensions as light duty trucks. Your
explorer is equipment with all wheel drive, which is
always engaged, and there is no switch to disengage it.
Question:
1999 Dodge Intrepid mileage: 93,461. My car jerks
two to three times when just about coming to a stop.
This is intermittent and only happens when slowly
stopping and is sometimes very pronounced. Feels
like the transmission incorrectly shifting but dealer
says nothing wrong. It is worse when car has been
driven for longer periods of time. What can be the
problem? No codes indicating transmission problem.
Answer: Your car has a lock-up torque
converter in the transmission. It locks-up only in
high gear. It is supposed to disengage at lower
speeds. Yours is not disengaging. There is
probably a valve in the transmission “hanging up”.
The valve body will have to be removed and cleaned
paying special attention to the TCC solenoid. The
TCC solenoid may have to be replaced.
Question:
1999 Dodge Grand Caravan mileage: 130,000. I am having a
problem with a wheel shimmy in the front passenger side.
It only seems to happen when first starting to
accelerate and is more pronounced on right hand turns.
It seems to go away at speeds above 20-25 Mph. I
have had it checked by my mechanic, he replaced the 2
struts, 2 strut mounts, a motor mount and did an
alignment and this did not solve the problem. If
you could send me in the right direction, I would
appreciate it!
Answer:
Try replacing axle assemblies, both left and right axles
should be replaced. Also, check the tires for cord
separation.
Question:
1999 Ford F-350 mileage: 30,000. I have a f-350
that is giving me considerable sway getting up to
highway speed and on deceleration but not so much at
cruising speed. I have new 4 ply radials,
balanced, proper inflation, etc. I have 3''
springs, 6 leafs. I have utility body, welder,
torches, and tools on board, but am well under gross
vehicle weight. Leaf springs do have a little
squat to them. Would helper springs be in order or
should I be looking elsewhere? Also has rear
anti-sway bar.
Answer:
Your swaying problem may be due to worn out front end
components. Replace failed tie rod ends, drag
link, and all bushings as needed, then realign.
Question:
2002 Ford Thunderbird mileage: 43,000. Last August
a small shudder showed up when the car shifted into 3rd
gear (automatic) and the engine was under a slight
uphill load. This only occurred when I was very lightly
pressing on the gas pedal. If I accelerate even a
small amount, the shudder goes away. Over the past
few months its gotten worse, meaning more frequent.
But I have noticed that it never happens when the engine
is cold. It has to warm up for a while.
I have had it to a transmission shop that comes highly
recommended. They say there is nothing wrong with
my tranny or torch converter. There is one more
observation worth noting. When it does occur and I
can keep it in the 'shudder mode', it sort of cycles in
and out of the mode, cyclically and very periodically
like it is part of a failing servo loop or something.
If I were to guess, I would say it’s like the fuel to
the engine is being modulated like the system
erroneously thinks, the engine is running to rich so it
leans the mixture, which causes the engine to stumble
slightly. This stumble (shudder) causes the system
to richen the mixture and the engine pulls harder, then
the process starts over again a few moments later.
I have thought about seeing if I could find the oxygen
sensor and unplugging it to see if that would affect the
problem.
Answer: It sound like you need a major
tune up
including spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter and
air filter. Replace as needed to
repair problem.
Question:
1999 Dodge Caravan mileage: 110,000. Hi Guys, well
I put in new half shafts at 99,000 miles, a 1,000 miles
later both where out. I replaced struts, motor
mounts, new tires, brakes calipers and rotors. I
had the Dodge dealer align the front end and check the
motor mount alignment. Now at 110,000 miles,
there is one out again. Any reason why or is it
because they are rebuilt; they where purchased at Napa.
It shakes between 30 to 45 mph then lets up past that or
if take your foot of the gas. Thanks
Answer:
Try replace the CV joints with new parts. Some of
the rebuilt units use old CV joints instead of
installing new parts. You can find quality auto parts at
eAutoPartStore.com
Question:
1998 Chevy Cavalier Z-24 mileage: 103,000. When
traveling in residential areas or where slow speed is
required, the car starts shaking violently. This
occurs whenever I try to maintain speed around 25 MPH
(second gear). Above this speed the shaking stops.
Below 25 MPH, it does not shake either. When
idling, the car has a noticeable smoky exhaust. I
was inspecting the tail pipe and noticed a carbon powder
build up around the end of the pipe. I have so far
replaced the Idle Speed Sensor and Throttle Positioning
Motor. I bought an oxygen sensor and have not yet
installed it. I am not sure what else to do.
The plugs and wires were recently replaced. I use
premium oil when I change the oil (about every 5000
miles). I pinged the ECM and got trouble codes 22,
35, and 44, but I am not sure what they mean. Any
suggestions would be most helpful.
Answer:
Code 22 is – low TOS voltage. Code 35 is IAC speed
error. Code 44 is lean exhaust. A
compression check would be a good idea also.
Question:
1999 Acura Integra mileage: 120,000. Strange
vibration. 5 spd trans, in 3rd gear accelerating hard
from 35 mph to 60 mph, engine oscillates and brings
steering wheel and gearshift vibration to extreme.
Can be felt in other gears. I have balanced tires,
cut rotors, replaced front center motor mount, and
reduced vibration by 50%. It seems root cause of
vibration still exists. On rack with brakes
applied and torque applied to drive line engine seems to
set up an oscillation when brakes and engine speed
simulate road condition noted above. Found right
upper motor mount body securing bolt shifted to left
side of car (tight), when loosened motor shifted to
right side of car and some of the vibration was
eliminated. It does not appear that axle shafts
are bent or Michelin tires have hidden defects.
Note: rack test was with and without tires --still
vibration. Has anyone seen this problem
before? Please help. Thanks!
Answer:
Yes we have seen similar problems. The CV joints
on the drive axles are probably worn out.
Replacing them should fix your problem.

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