Repair Topics / Engine Over Heating-1 / Engine Over Heating-2 / Engine Over Heating-3 / Engine Over Heating-4

• Why does my engine over heat or run hot?
• Why is my engine leaking coolant?
• How to change your radiator
• Why is there oil in the coolant?
• Why is there coolant in the engine oil?
• Why does my engine leak oil?
• Why is my heater not working?
• Why is my engine making noise?
• How a cooling system works
• How to test a thermostat
• How does a clutch fan work?
• How does a serpentine belt tensioner work?
• Car is making a bubbling noise
• Why is my car making a popping noise?

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Car Engine Over Heating Condition and Coolant Loss - This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.

Answer:   You probably have a cooling fan control relay that has failed. Replace cooling fan relay to repair problem. Recheck system

Question: 2004 Mitsubishi Eclipse mileage: 75,000. I just replaced my radiator with a used one three days ago because the tank blew off. Yesterday I was driving 60 miles per hour when my car started hesitating and slowing down. Then my thermostat started to show the engine heating up really fast. I was pulling off the side of the road when all of the emergency lights (oil, brake, coolant, etc.) came on. I turned on the engine and a few minutes later, my upper hose blew. I replaced it and started to drive. My car is constantly over heating. Any suggestions?

Answer:  It sounds like you may have a blown head gasket. Disassemble to inspect and replace as needed. Reassemble to recheck system.

Question: 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 mileage: 78,000. My truck overheated. I took it to a mechanic. After keeping it over night, they called and said it was the water pump. They estimated the cost to be $450.00. I told them to go ahead and change it. I then asked them to check and see if there had been any damage to the engine. When they called back to tell me the car was ready they told me that there hadn't been any damage to the engine and even if there had been, it would have been smoking, which it had not been. Later that day I went to pick up my car. They told me that it wasn't overheating anymore and I could take it home. I didn't even get a mile down the road and it got extremely hot. I turned right around and took it back. A mechanic got in my car even after I told him it was extremely hot and didn't return for about 20 minutes. When he came back, I noticed my car was smoking really badly. Well, they then took it in the shop for about 30 minutes. They told me that it was just an air pocket and now it was just fine. Well it overheated on my way home. We took it back the following day and they said it was now a blown head gasket. I then wrote a note to the Better Business Bureau telling them what had happened. About a week later, the owner called and said that he would give us the $450.00 back for the water pump. But nothing else could be done. He said it was the head gasket the whole time and they're just sorry they didn't catch it. My question is did they have to change the water pump to know if it was the head gasket? And could they have told right away by checking if there was water in the oil? And also do you guys think I have a good case to take to small claims court? Please answer as soon as possible.

Answer:   It sounds like you have a water pump that failed causing the engine to overheat and blow the head gaskets. This is a common problem with cars today, the water pump fails causing other problems. Today's automobile should replace the water pump every 4 years to help stop catastrophic engine failure. eAutoPartStore.com has replacement water pumps for from $48.00

Question: 2002 Ford Taurus Wagon mileage: 90,000. The head gaskets were replaced at 60,000 miles. After this repair, I noticed the car always ran hot - the needle hovered between the "M" and "A" of NORMAL. The dealer told me not to worry about it. This vehicle has had regular 3,000 mile oil and filter changes. Two weeks ago, the engine developed a very loud clackety-clack sound, so off to the dealership I went. To diagnose the problem, they removed the oil pan and discovered that numbers 2 & 3 rods were "spun" and that I needed a new block. They claim that this was an "internal failure" and unrelated to the known head gasket problem these 3.8L engines have. Further questioning revealed that it was a "broken" wrist pin that caused this problem. My question to you is for a reality check of their explanation. Is it possible that the history I have had with head gasket repairs and overheating caused the wrist-pin failure? Can wrist-pin failure be determined without pulling the heads? And, most of all, is it worth it to have the engine block replaced since I already have logged 90,000 miles?

Answer:   This is a sticky one. Sometimes when mechanics aren't careful they can leave debris inside the engine when cleaning gaskets surfaces etc. This contamination finds its way down into the engine causing crankshaft failure. The problem comes when trying to prove it, it is difficult.

Question: 2003 Toyota Tundra mileage: 90,000. This has been a nightmare, I would appreciate any feedback you can give. My truck has a white smoke/steam that comes out of the radiator.  The temperature go's up fast.  The water level in the radiator seems fine.  I have added coolant.  I took it in to a mechanic b/c it appeared I needed a new upper and lower radiator hose. They also recommended spending $700+ on a new water pump that they thought might be clogged.  Well, I couldn't afford that so I had them do everything but the water pump.  As I drove home from the shop, the car smoked again.  Any suggestions?  Should a water pump cost that much?  I am taking it to a new mechanic tomorrow and would like any heads up you can give. Thank you.

Answer: It sounds like your thermostat it stuck closed and needs replacing.

Question: 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 mileage: 60,000.  It recently overheated--the heater would not work, so we changed the thermostat.  This appeared to fix it.  Then, 9 months later, my radiator started leaking, and the car overheated again.   We ended up replacing the radiator and cap, thermostat, water pump, and the belt.  This appeared to fix it...again, for a month or so.  Now, After 1-1.5 minutes, the car overheats (way past the H on the gauge), but it doesn't seem like it's really that hot (no fumes/steam or ticking noises).   Occasionally, I notice the oil pressure light come on (especially on sharp turns), even though I had the oil changed last week.   I also noticed a greenish-yellow slime on the inside of the oil cap after I had my oil changed, but the oil looks fine when you check the dipstick.  Any ideas?

Answer: If your car is overheating in a minute or so, the thermostat may be stuck and needs replacing.  The greenish-yellow slime inside the oil cap is probably due to a seeping head gasket and or a cracked head.

Question: 2002 Ford E150 Van mileage:77,000.  A year ago, our radiator was leaking so we got a new one and replaced it.  I noticed that the engine was then running hotter - towards the top of the normal range where it had always before been in the middle and sometimes to overheating.  My husband replaced the temperature sending unit and the thermostat.  I was also having to put water and coolant back in but not seeing any leaks or signs of leaks.  My husband has decided that it must just want to run hotter.  Running the heater does not have much if any effect when it is running hot.   Now I have noticed if I let the water level stay down below where it should be it will get hot at first then settle back in the middle of the normal range.  After a short time then it starts to get too hot again.  At times, it smells hot also.  The water pump appears to be fine.  Do I need a new cap?  In addition, if I do what pressure?  I hate to replace anything else unless we know it is necessary.  Thanks for your help.  Driving it this way is making me a nervous wreck.

Answer:  Try replacing the fan clutch with new, recheck system.

Question: 2000 Ford Contour mileage: 118,000.  I recently had a car-overheating problem.  I didn't notice and the engine started to lack power and feel strained and 'click'. I pulled over and saw that the engine was very hot.  When I pulled off the radiator cap, it was empty, when I filled it with a little water, all of it dissolved into steam.  The next morning I went back and filled it with water and there was a crack in the top of the radiator.  Did I cause this by trying to fill it with water when the engine was hot causing a split, or was this the problem earlier by it leaking out and I did no harm by trying to fill it?

Answer:   We do not think that adding water when you did caused the crack in the radiator.  The crack in the radiator is a sign that it need to be replaced.

Question:   2004 BMW 745i  mileage: 50,000  Noted in past few days that my engine is over heating.  I have check radiator fluid and is ok.  Also, check thermostat and believe it is ok.  What else could be causing problem, could it be fan clutch and if it is how can I check it?

Answer:   The best way to test a thermo fan clutch is to inspect it for leaks. The grease will leak out causing operation failure. Replacing the thermo fan clutch can repair your problem.

Question:   2004 Ford Freestar  mileage: 65,000.  I was sitting at the drive thru window of a fast food restaurant when it started smoking and hissing from the engine, I got out and checked and it seemed to be coming from the radiator, it was antifreeze that was spraying out everywhere.  In the previous few days before this happened I noticed that the heat was taking a lot longer to get hot...please tell me this is something simple, for I have 3 children and not the means to fix something major. Thank you very much for your help!

Answer:  Check for coolant leaks.  If there are none, replace thermostat with new, check to see that the radiator fan cycles on and off when the car is at normal operating temperature.

Question: 2003 Mercedes Benz ML 350 mileage: 61,000.  Recently my temperature gauge has been fluctuating wildly. The gauge reads almost (but not quite) in the red then falls back to the center of the normal range.  I cannot predict what will make the needle move (speed, vent, a/c, etc.).  Along with this wild fluctuation, the car intermittently blows cold air when the heat is on.  Please help.

Answer: We think your problem is a low coolant level.  With the engine cold open the radiator cap (not the overflow cap) and it should be clear full.  If not, you have a leak, trouble shoot to repair as needed. ex: water pump, coolant hoses, radiator.

Question: 2001 Mazda MPV mileage: 67,000.  The engine overheats quickly.  It has a new water pump, radiator.  The coolant seems to be forced out the overflow, leaving nothing.  Could there be a clog in the water jackets or is it something else?

Answer:  Replace the thermostat with new, reassemble to recheck system.

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Repair Topics / Engine Over Heating-1 / Engine Over Heating-2 / Engine Over Heating-3 / Engine Over Heating-4