Repair Topics / Noises-1 / Noises-2 / Noises-3

Car Buzzing, Pings, Creeks, Scraping and Rattles

Question:  2003 Pontiac Bonneville mileage: 34,000. The fuel pump never turns off.  From the time you start the motor you hear the buzz until you turn off the motor.  The fuel pump was replaced prior to my buying this used car.  Is the sensor that senses the fuel rail pressure part of the pump assembly in the tank or some where in line?  I have looked at the fuel line - under the hood - to the fuel rail and only see the injectors, no other in line sensors.

Answer: The fuel pump should be running all the time that the engine in your car is started and running.  You should not be hearing a loud buzz from the fuel pump.  You may have a faulty fuel pump or a plugged fuel filter. The fuel pressure is controlled by a fuel pressure regulator and could also be faulty.     

Question:  2001 Ford Taurus mileage: 74,000.  It has an intermittent very high-pitched sound when driving anywhere from 10 to 50 miles per hour.  It is more like a squeaking than a belt squeal.  (It is VERY high-pitched and very irritating.)  It seems to happen with the air-conditioner on or off and is not isolated to during acceleration.  It occurs 10 - 20% of the time. The oil is reasonably clean, up to or above the full mark; no foaming. I know this is a limited amount of information.  Have you encountered this before?  Any ideas?  I am 3000 miles from the car.  However, my son and I plan to fly there and drive the car home this July.  I'll get the 75,000 mile service before we leave.   

Answer:  We believe that you have a faulty idle air control valve. It is a common problem on Ford cars and trucks.

Question:  2002 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 mileage 34,500: Four times now I have taken my car in for service at two Chevy dealerships. Upon acceleration in any gear, either from a stop or on the road, my engine makes a horrible ticking/clattering noise. It seems worse when the car is warm or in warmer weather...my boyfriend has driven it claiming to hear it even when it's cold. The first visit to GM resulted in "That noise is normal for the Camaro. No one knows what it is." Second visit: "We have no idea." The third visit seemed a little more revolutionary: "It’s fuel clatter...you need to use premium fuel and the problem will resolve." For the next 10 months I resolved to use only 89 or higher fuel (previously I had used alternating tanks of 87 and 92). Well, the noise grew worse. I just picked up my car from the FOURTH visit and got conflicting advice. First I was told "You probably shouldn't use high grade fuel since I don't believe this car requires it." and then from a DIFFERENT tech, "There is nothing we can do about it; you can only use premium 92-grade fuel." Now I am frustrated and worried since my manual claims this noise/problem can be harmful to my engine if not serviced. I am still under warranty...am I being jacked around and is it something that can be remedied.....OR.....am I just hoping? I would appreciate any advice.

Answer: It sounds like you have a knock sensor operating out of range or a main PCM that is not responding to the knock sensor values. As for the valve noise, switching to a major brand synthetic oil has resolved this problem in our customer’s cars.      

Question: 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD mileage: 76,000: Since I purchased this truck new, the valve train has made noise when cold starting but has progressively gotten worse to the point that it is embarrassing and distressful to me after having paid over $30,000.00 for it last year. The dealership says it is "normal" for cold starting -- I don't buy this explanation and think it is a rod bearing problem and the noise is from "piston slap" Is this going to be harmful to the longevity of my engine? Is the problem diagnosis on my part correct?

Answer:   The new Chevrolet valve train technology is more like a racecar set up. With full roller valve train and roller lifters they get more power but are a little noisy. This noise doesn't hurt the engine, in anyway. Our 2001 Chevrolet 1500 shop trucks had the same valve noise when cold. We changed motor oil with Mobil1 synthetic oil 15/50 weight racing oil and the noise was much less.

Question: 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe 4x4  Mileage: 86,200. My question is pertaining to a noise that my truck has recently started making an interesting "squealing" noise. The noise seems to be louder and longer lasting at various times. Basically, it sounds like a belt or something when it's wet -- like I said, it sounds like a squealing noise. I've opened the hood to see if I could pinpoint a distinct location but still wasn't quite sure as it's quite loud and the sound fills the engine compartment. Also, the noise eventually stops after I've been driving for about 10 minutes or so -- the duration being a little longer during colder/wetter days. I commute about 30 miles every day to and from work, but the sound was happening previous to my new job so I don't attribute the trips to the cause. Also, the noise returns after the vehicle has been turned off for approximately an hour to an hour and a half. Can you help?

Answer: It sounds like you have a main drive belt tensioner that is bad and needs replacing. The belt tensioner is spring loaded and when failing they don't hold as much pressure on the belt as needed. Causing he noise you hear. Replace the belt tensioner and multi rib belt with new to repair problem.

Question: 2003 Honda Civic mileage: 65,000. I just recently purchased this Honda as a commuter car. When I first purchase the car there was and still is a low sound when I accelerate the vehicle; it sounds like an exhaust leak and it idles a little rough. So they said they would repair it. After looking at the car, they determined sound comes from the air filter box. They got the vacuum diagram from Honda and everything is supposedly there. Now, they say it is perfectly normal,, but its not. Do you know what this low sound could be that comes out of the filter box when accelerating like a load pulsing noise?

Answer:   All cars have some intake noise in the air box but it sounds like your noise could be a flat cam or broken valve train. Remove valve cover to inspect, replace broken or worn camshaft or valve spring etc. as needed. reassemble to recheck system.

Question: 2003 Dodge Intrepid mileage: 82,000. Recently tuned up car - new plugs, filters, oil, etc - took trip (500 miles and every thing ran smooth). Driving home - stepped up speed from 50 to about 70 (fast revved only to about 5500 Rpm's) and the engine started making a Loud clacking/clicking sound - like a lifter or rocker arm might have blown. Looking over the engine, I've found both a fuel leak (Chrysler has a recall to replace O rings & fuel rails on the '93 intrepid 3.5 liter engine) and a radiator leak. The fuel leak is on the right front side (probably near or at piston #1). And I'm still looking for the radiator fluid leak (Replaced the oil - no radiator fluid) - also checked the spark plugs, they were rather carbon fouled (cleaned with wire brush, re-gapped, re-installed). Also found water dripping from the exhaust when the car reaches operating temp... Engine starts & idles fine, but still get that loud clacking noise on the right side. Could it be I've blown a lifter, or possibly had the piston hit & bend a valve? Thanks for sharing all the great info on the internet!!!

Answer: We are guessing that a broken valve spring could be causing your problem. Also, check rod bearings and main bearings.

Question: 2001 Jaguar XJR mileage: 26,000. While driving at high speeds on the freeway, there is wind noise coming from the driver's window. I was told this problem is in relation to the design of the left mirror. The car has been in the shop twice and the problem has not been corrected. Do you have any suggestions?

Answer: If no noise is present in the test driven vehicle, then your problem could be the window seal. replace window seal with new and the problem should be repaired.

Question: 2003 Ford Contour mileage: 26,000. I'm 58 years old and have owned a lot of cars in my life and my Contour has the worse road noise of any car I've owned or been in....my Chevy truck even has less noise! Is this normal with Ford Contours? Road surface seems to make a big difference in the amount of noise. But, I get a lot of what sounds like wind noise all the time?

Answer: The road noise you are describing could be a bad axle bearing or wheel bearing or even bad tires. Inspect the wear pattern if it is uneven it can cause server road noise.

Question: 2003 Ford Taurus miles: 45,980 My question is concerning my wife's car. The problem the car is having is in the air filter area. A mid-pitch noise comes from the air filter area (sounds almost identical to the sound a conch shell makes when blown). My mechanic looked at it and showed me where the noise was coming from. It only happens when you either have been driving the car and come to a stop or when you rev the engine. As he demonstrated for me by having me rev the engine, he could feel the air filter box vibrating. As soon as he unclipped the box and lifted it up, the noise went away. However, I completely removed the air filter and box and then tried to rev the engine. The noise was still there, but it took a higher rev to produce it. I was wondering what I can do to keep this annoying noise from occurring again.

Answer: It appears you need to replace the idle air control motor . That will fix your problem.

Question: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee mileage: 50,000. I purchased a Jeep Grand Cherokee with 40,000 miles in mint condition  AT, full time 4x4. And all the goodies. It had all scheduled maintenance records by the dealer with all oil & coolant changes. The vehicle runs great and is very tight with good shocks. PROBLEM. Loud noisy low frequency hums at speed just over 60 mph. It is hard to talk or listen to anyone in the back seat. Even the defrost plastic grill on the dash is vibrating from the noise. Driving at 75 mph, I shifted into neutral, the noise ceased. I rev the engine to 2k rpm. No noise. However, the engine and drive train had no load. The vehicle coasted smoothly with no vibration or Tire noise. The Dealer said this would be hard to diagnose and would be a trial and error repair of replacement job. I see many bucks in this plan. Anyone know what the problem may be?

Answer: It sounds like you have a driveline that need the universal joints replaced.

Question: 2004 Mazda Prot�g� mileage: 37,000. I have what seems to be rocker arm noise. Can I adjust them like a hydraulic Chevrolet?

Answer: Remove valve cover to check valve train for damage. If okay, you may have to replace the cam followers, as they are not adjustable like a Chevrolet.

Question: 2004 Mercury Sable mileage: 70,000. There's a noise coming from the front of the vehicle. It sounds a little like metal on a grinder or perhaps on a chop saw with the blade just touching it. It's only present from about 2100 rpms to 2400 rpms peaking around 2250. At 2250, it is very loud. It is present in gear and in neutral. Because of how loud it is, I hesitate to search around a whole lot trying to find the exact source for fear that I may be doing damage while I do so. It does sound like it's coming from the top of the engine though, but that could certainly be wrong.

Answer: The noise you are describing sounds like the water pump bearing has failed cause the noise you are hearing, Replace water pump with new to recheck system.

Question: 2002 Honda Accord mileage: 58,000. I'm hearing loud exhaust noise from the front of the car. The down pipe, converter and all other components are either new or clean & solid. I'd swear this is coming from the spring-loaded coupling between the down pipe and manifold. Does the gasket in there routinely disintegrate? When I had the converter loose to put in a new resonator section I noticed that the whole catalytic assembly swung mighty easily. Could my problem be a leak at that gasket after only 58,000 miles?

Answer: Your problem could be a leaky exhaust manifold gasket. Replacing it should cure your exhaust leak.

Answer: We would try to isolate the problem by driving the car at the speed at which the noise is the loudest and then put the transmission in neutral and shut off the engine. If the noise is still there, it is probably in the drive train or possible in the transmission. If the noise is gone, then it may be the clutch assembly or the engine.

Question: 2002 Mercedes Benz CL500 mileage: 32,000.  Hi - In April I brought my car into the dealer because it was making a loud knocking noise while driving and also at idle. The noise improved at higher rpm's.  I was told I needed a belt tensioner and that I might as well replace the water pump, while they replaced the belt tensioner.  I had the work done and the car seemed quiet at first.  Now it is back to making the same noise.  I hear it as soon as I start the car.  It is worsening, just like it did before the work was done.  Does it sound to you like the belt needs to be adjusted, or are they going to tell me that it is something else, entirely? 

Answer: With 32,000 miles on your vehicle, it would be in your best interest to just replace the belt tensioner for now.

Question:  2002 BMW 745Li mileage: 73,000.   I have a rumbling noise in right rear tire is wearing unusually too much on outside of tire.  Also, have what appears to be skipping marks on outside edge of tire like the tire could be bouncing during braking.  Tire inflation is correct.

Answer: Check the rear axle bearings on the right rear wheel.  If they are okay, have the car’s alignment checked with four-wheel alignment equipment.

Question: 2003 Ford Explorer mileage: 67,300.  My question involves the thermostat.  When the car is started after sitting for a while (cold), there is a honking sound.   It sounds like a goose, and it last for maybe a second or two.  I have been told it might be the control being stuck.  Any ideas would be appreciated.

Answer: Sounds like you are having a Idle Air Control Valve malfunction. Replace with new to repair problem.

Repair Topics / Noises-1 / Noises-2 / Noises-3

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