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Repair Topics / Car Door Lock-1 / Car Door Lock-2
 
Car Door Lock Questions and Answers

This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.



Question: 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier mileage: 52,000. My car is hunted, when I use the door locks only three out of the four are working. It this a switch problem, or wiring maybe.?

Answer:   No, it sounds like you have a shorted door lock actuator, simply replace the lock that is not working with a new unit.



Question: 1999 VW Jetta mileage: 63,000. This model Jetta has auto locks; you turn the key and all the doors lock (and alarm activates). Mine has a problem though, the drivers door locks but all the others do not. I can hear the whine of a small motor (left side in trunk) for about 20 seconds, as if the doors are trying to lock but will not. I figure the locking mechanism needs to be replaced. Is it possible to just disconnect the struggling locking mechanism and just lock the doors manually?

Answer:  Yes, you can disconnect the locking mechanism and lock the doors manually.


Question: 1999 VW Jetta mileage: 62,000. The central locking system does not work for the passenger side of the vehicle. When I lock/unlock the doors from the driver's side, the passenger side locks do not move. I can hear a motor turning for about 15 seconds, leading me to believe the car is trying to lock the doors. What could the problem be?

Answer: Remove the door panel and inspect the lock mechanism for faulty or broken parts. Replacing the broken parts that you find should cure your predicament.


Question: 1999 Dodge Caravan mileage: 75,200. I have power door locks & want to install remote opener. Where is control box located in van?

Answer: The control box is located under the left side of the dash-top cover.


Question: 1999 GMC Sierra 1500 4X4 mileage: 120,000. I recently had my power window motor replaced on the drivers side of my truck. When I got my truck back, I noticed the window was working fine but the power door locks were not working. The power switches to the locks also were continuously clicking. I had to take part of the trim off and disconnect the power to the switch to keep anything from shorting out. I am wondering if someone crossed a wire or if there is another problem with my power door locks.

Answer: You should take your vehicle back to who ever previously worked on it and have then check the wiring harnesses especially the ground wires.


Question: 1999 VW Jetta mileage: 72,500. The driver door freezes all the time. After opening, it will not re-latch. I use a hair dryer to thaw once opened and it is Ok for a while, and then freezes again. I was told to spray WD40 in the door latch and this would stop. Did that and now it is frozen completely shut and will not open. Have to admit it was about zero last night. Any ideas how to overcome this or if it may be something beyond a moisture problem? I would appreciate your advice, thanks.

Answer:  The freezing of the door latch mechanism is probably caused by water or moisture getting into the mechanism. Check the rubber door seals to be sure that moisture is not somehow entering the interior of the door. Also, check the drain holes in the bottom of the door to make sure they are open.


Question: 1998 Nissan Sentra mileage: 140,000. My fuel gauge and my temperature gauge no longer work. In addition, my driver’s side door lock often freezes. I know this is vague but if you have any ideas please help.

Answer:  The problem with your gauges may be a faulty voltage limiter. The problem with your door locks may be a faulty door lock actuator.


Question: 1994 Chrysler LHS 3.5 liter mileage: 67,750. I recently purchased this car and the keyless remote FOB's do not work. The batteries are all brand new and both remote units have good electrical connections. I thought it needed reprogramming until today. The car was sitting out while I was working and the exterior temperature was around 30 degrees F. After starting, just for fun, I tried the FOB and the doors locked. I repeatedly locked and unlocked the car while driving. After the car was warmed up, the remote failed to work again. I am thinking that the receiver has a loose wire or something, but I cannot find where the receiver or the antenna is. Every manual I try shows nothing about the remote door locks. Can you provide me any information to help me out? I want to try doing this myself, because I feel it will be pretty simple, but I am stumped on where to look in a car filled with electronic "goodies". Thanks in advance for your help, and I look forward to your response.

Answer: Check the electrical power and ground connections to the receiver. It is located under the dash cover on the passenger side.


Question: 1998 Bonneville SSE 3800 mileage: 140,000. This car has automatic door locks and both back doors will not open. When automatic lock button is pushed the back doors click but will not open. The front door does open with the button. The two back doors went out about 2 weeks of each other. When using the back door locks manually, they still will not open. Any suggestions on how to get the doors open to fix.

Answer: Try a “Slim Jim” the tool tow-truck drivers use to open a car door when the keys are left inside the car.



Question: 1999 Chevrolet Lumina z34 v6 mileage: 18,000. I can't get the doors closed on my car......I know I accidentally "flipped" something on the side of the doors when I was washing/cleaning it. Can you tell me or show me how to remedy this? I know it sounds stupid...but... THANKS

Answer: Try “opening” the door with the outside handle. That should release the latch.


Question: 1998 Buick/La Sabre 6 Cyl mileage: 154,000. Both power door locks and power-seat are inoperable. Don't know if seat went up at same point as door locks as I was at the time only one driving the car. Went step #1 in troubleshooting and checked fuses. Problem is they look all right (I replaced the 30 amp circuit breaker anyway since they are hard to tell if shot or not). There is a secondary fuse panel behind the glove box, which contains an unlabeled 20 amp and 15 amp fuse (both seem fine) also in the same fuse panel are 2 (I am guessing here) square black boxes that I assume are also breakers. Do you know if either one of these boxes have anything to do with the seats and locks. If so do you know which it would be top or bottom? I am on a small fixed income here and would like to make sure it is not something this simple before I spend money for a Pro. Wouldn't worry about it but wife is short and can't reach pedals and we are down to 1 car.

Answer: Check fuseable links down by the starter.


Question: 1992 Pontiac Bonneville mileage: 98,700. I am unable to get my automatic door locks to work. I checked the fuses and they look fine. They don't work with my remote on my key chain and the don't work on the doors. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Answer:  Your car is equipped with a remote accessory control module. Two fuses supply power to it, check both. If the fuses are okay, the module may be at fault.


Question: 1997 Ford Thunderbird mileage: 110,000. My driver side door hinge/lock unit (the piece that goes on to the car post to hold the door shut) will not go all the way down so it will fit over the post. Do you know of a way to get that to function again? If I lift the handle up the piece does release but not far enough to fit over the post. Any kind of help/trick would be appreciated.

Answer:  If we understand your problem correctly, the proper way to fix it is to replace the worn latch assembly.

Repair Topics / Car Door Lock-1 / Car Door Lock-2

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