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Door Lock-1 / Car
Door Lock-2
Car Door Lock Questions and
Answers This
category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.

Question: 2002 Chevrolet
Cavalier mileage: 52,000. My car is hunted, when
I use the door locks only three out of the four
are working. It this a switch problem, or wiring
maybe.?
Answer: No, it
sounds like you have a shorted
door lock actuator, simply replace the lock
that is not working with a new unit.
Question: 1999 VW Jetta
mileage: 63,000. This model Jetta has auto
locks; you turn the key and all the doors lock
(and alarm activates). Mine has a problem
though, the drivers door locks but all the
others do not. I can hear the whine of a small
motor (left side in trunk) for about 20 seconds,
as if the doors are trying to lock but will not.
I figure the locking mechanism needs to be
replaced. Is it possible to just disconnect the
struggling locking mechanism and just lock the
doors manually?
Answer: Yes, you can
disconnect the locking mechanism and lock the
doors manually.
Question: 1999 VW Jetta
mileage: 62,000. The central locking system does
not work for the passenger side of the vehicle.
When I lock/unlock the doors from the driver's
side, the passenger side locks do not move. I
can hear a motor turning for about 15 seconds,
leading me to believe the car is trying to lock
the doors. What could the problem be?
Answer: Remove the door
panel and inspect the lock mechanism for faulty
or broken parts. Replacing the broken parts that
you find should cure your predicament.
Question: 1999 Dodge
Caravan mileage: 75,200. I have power door locks
& want to install remote opener. Where is
control box located in van?
Answer: The control box
is located under the left side of the dash-top
cover.
Question: 1999 GMC Sierra
1500 4X4 mileage: 120,000. I recently had my
power window motor replaced on the drivers side
of my truck. When I got my truck back, I noticed
the window was working fine but the power door
locks were not working. The power switches to
the locks also were continuously clicking. I had
to take part of the trim off and disconnect the
power to the switch to keep anything from
shorting out. I am wondering if someone crossed
a wire or if there is another problem with my
power door locks.
Answer: You should take
your vehicle back to who ever previously worked
on it and have then check the wiring harnesses
especially the ground wires.
Question: 1999 VW Jetta
mileage: 72,500. The driver door freezes all the
time. After opening, it will not re-latch. I use
a hair dryer to thaw once opened and it is Ok
for a while, and then freezes again. I was told
to spray WD40 in the door latch and this would
stop. Did that and now it is frozen completely
shut and will not open. Have to admit it was
about zero last night. Any ideas how to overcome
this or if it may be something beyond a moisture
problem? I would appreciate your advice, thanks.
Answer: The freezing of
the door latch mechanism is probably caused by
water or moisture getting into the mechanism.
Check the rubber door seals to be sure that
moisture is not somehow entering the interior of
the door. Also, check the drain holes in the
bottom of the door to make sure they are open.
Question: 1998 Nissan
Sentra mileage: 140,000. My fuel gauge and my
temperature gauge no longer work. In addition,
my driver’s side door lock often freezes. I know
this is vague but if you have any ideas please
help.
Answer: The problem with
your gauges may be a faulty voltage limiter. The
problem with your door locks may be a faulty
door lock actuator.
Question: 1994 Chrysler
LHS 3.5 liter mileage: 67,750. I recently
purchased this car and the keyless remote FOB's
do not work. The batteries are all brand new and
both remote units have good electrical
connections. I thought it needed reprogramming
until today. The car was sitting out while I was
working and the exterior temperature was around
30 degrees F. After starting, just for fun, I
tried the FOB and the doors locked. I repeatedly
locked and unlocked the car while driving. After
the car was warmed up, the remote failed to work
again. I am thinking that the receiver has a
loose wire or something, but I cannot find where
the receiver or the antenna is. Every manual I
try shows nothing about the remote door locks.
Can you provide me any information to help me
out? I want to try doing this myself, because I
feel it will be pretty simple, but I am stumped
on where to look in a car filled with electronic
"goodies". Thanks in advance for your help, and
I look forward to your response.
Answer: Check the
electrical power and ground connections to the
receiver. It is located under the dash cover on
the passenger side.
Question: 1998 Bonneville
SSE 3800 mileage: 140,000. This car has
automatic door locks and both back doors will
not open. When automatic lock button is pushed
the back doors click but will not open. The
front door does open with the button. The two
back doors went out about 2 weeks of each other.
When using the back door locks manually, they
still will not open. Any suggestions on how to
get the doors open to fix.
Answer: Try a “Slim Jim”
the tool tow-truck drivers use to open a car
door when the keys are left inside the car.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet
Lumina z34 v6 mileage: 18,000. I can't get the
doors closed on my car......I know I
accidentally "flipped" something on the side of
the doors when I was washing/cleaning it. Can
you tell me or show me how to remedy this? I
know it sounds stupid...but... THANKS
Answer: Try “opening” the
door with the outside handle. That should
release the latch.
Question: 1998 Buick/La
Sabre 6 Cyl mileage: 154,000. Both power door
locks and power-seat are inoperable. Don't know
if seat went up at same point as door locks as I
was at the time only one driving the car. Went
step #1 in troubleshooting and checked fuses.
Problem is they look all right (I replaced the
30 amp circuit breaker anyway since they are
hard to tell if shot or not). There is a
secondary fuse panel behind the glove box, which
contains an unlabeled 20 amp and 15 amp fuse
(both seem fine) also in the same fuse panel are
2 (I am guessing here) square black boxes that I
assume are also breakers. Do you know if either
one of these boxes have anything to do with the
seats and locks. If so do you know which it
would be top or bottom? I am on a small fixed
income here and would like to make sure it is
not something this simple before I spend money
for a Pro. Wouldn't worry about it but wife is
short and can't reach pedals and we are down to
1 car.
Answer: Check fuseable
links down by the starter.
Question: 1992 Pontiac
Bonneville mileage: 98,700. I am unable to get
my automatic door locks to work. I checked the
fuses and they look fine. They don't work with
my remote on my key chain and the don't work on
the doors. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Answer: Your car is
equipped with a remote accessory control module.
Two fuses supply power to it, check both. If the
fuses are okay, the module may be at fault.
Question: 1997 Ford
Thunderbird mileage: 110,000. My driver side
door hinge/lock unit (the piece that goes on to
the car post to hold the door shut) will not go
all the way down so it will fit over the post.
Do you know of a way to get that to function
again? If I lift the handle up the piece does
release but not far enough to fit over the post.
Any kind of help/trick would be appreciated.
Answer: If we understand
your problem correctly, the proper way to fix it
is to replace the worn latch assembly. 
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Door Lock-1 / Car
Door Lock-2
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