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Car Door Lock Questions and Answers - This category
contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier mileage: 52,000. My car is hunted, when
I use the door locks only three out of the four are working. It this a switch problem,
or wiring maybe.?
Answer: No, it sounds like you have a shorted
door lock actuator, simply replace the lock that is not working with a new unit.
Question: 2002 Oldsmobile Alero mileage:
45,000. As I am driving, my door lock actuators keep activating to lock the doors.
They activate every 2-3 seconds. But sometimes they stop (and behave normal). Sometimes
they seem to activate when I hit a bump, but other times I don't really hit any
bumps when they activate. This occurs only while the car is moving. When stopped
at an intersection, the locks don't do anything. I have not noticed any other problems
locking or unlocking the doors - when the car is stopped/parked. Also, in conjunction
with this, when stopped at an intersection, the interior dome light comes on. Then
goes off once I start moving - but then the doors start locking again. Additionally,
when I park and get out, the interior lights do not always go off - sometimes they
stay on for many minutes, sometimes they go off in about 20 seconds (as normal).
Sometimes re-closing the doors fix this, sometimes not. Any advice is much appreciated.
Thank You
Answer: Your door lock problem is more than likely due to pin switch (door
switch) that is either out of adjustment or is faulty.
Question: 1999 Ford Taurus mileage 100,000. I have a problem with power
locks in my car. The doors unlock perfectly whether by a remote control or by pushing
a button inside, but will not lock. It's not a problem with the remote as the lights
blink and honk sounds when I press the "Lock" button, but the doors remain unlocked.
Pushing any of the "Lock" buttons inside also produces no result. Any ideas?
Answer: Your problem is more than likely a broken wire in
the wiring loom that goes to the driver's side door. Check the loom at the door
hinge.
Question: 1985 Buick Skylark mileage: 118,000. My power
door locks don't work when you push the button on any of the doors. They all lock
like they're supposed to when the car is put into drive or reverse. What are the
possibilities?
Answer: There should be a circuit breaker for the door locks.
Check for 12-volts on both sides of the circuit breaker. If that tests okay, check
for 12-volts at the main switch in the driver's door.
Question: 1989 Lincoln Town Car: Though your list is rather complete, I noted
Keyless Entry was omitted. Was searching to learn why my Keyless Entry works on
all 3 doors & trunk but fails to work on the Driver Door. To unlock the Driver Door,
I must use the physical key lock. In addition, the code for punching the entry numbers
(when without a key) does not work. All worked fine until car returned from vehicle
clean-up shop. Wonder what could cause this malfunction & where to begin to correct
problem?
Answer: Check the actuator in the driver's door it appears
that is non-operational and needs to be replaced.
Question: 1999 Ford Mustang mileage: 50,500. My trunk is
popping open by itself. I can hear it happen. It sounds like I hit the "trunk" button
on my remote, but I didn't. It just started happening this morning, and has continued
for hours now. I keep shutting it, but it keeps opening. After it has opened, I
can still hear the "pop" noise continuing. Also, I can't open the passenger side
window with the button on the passenger side. It will only open from the driver's
side. Could there be a problem with a fuse?
Answer: Sounds like a comedy act. Scan the body control module
and it will identify the problem you are having. There may be a short in the control
module itself. It also could be as simple as a low battery in your remote controller.
Question: 1988 Buick Century. My buddy dropped the key to
my truck down the defrost vents in dash of his Buick and it was my last one. What
is my best course of action for getting it out? I don't want to make more of this
that I have too.
Answer: The cheaper and easier way to go is to have a good
locksmith make a key for you. They can do this without a key to copy.
Question: 1994 Isuzu Rodeo mileage: 107,000. Rear passenger
side door won't unlock. I know I need to remove the interior door panel to check
and fix the latch mechanism, but since I can't open the door, I can't remove the
panel. I'm thinking that I have to remove the entire door from the frame, so I can
then remove the panel. But I'm not sure that if I unbolt the hinges from the frame,
the door will unlatch. Am I on the right track? Any other innovative ideas?
Answer: Instead of removing the door, try using a tool known
as a "Slim Jim" to slide down inside of the door to unlock the mechanism. Most tow
truck drivers have this type of tool to be used when people lock their keys in the
car.
Question: 1988 Cadillac Fleetwood Brough mileage: 102,000.
The electric door lock switches will unlock the doors but they will not lock the
doors. I looked for the door lock relay but could not locate it. Could it be the
relay or something else?
Answer: You probably have a bad door switch. Check it out
under load with a 12-volt test light.
Question: 2005 Toyota Camry mileage: 11,800. Great car, runs
like a dream - but, without any obvious reason, I can no longer open the trunk:
the key will not turn in the lock and the release latch by the drivers seat has
also given up the ghost. Is this mechanical, electronics, or what and can you suggest
a get around to make me happy again. This guy in London, England, would appreciate
your help.
Answer: Sounds like the locks and or the key is worn out.
A good locksmith should be able to help you out here by either replacing the worn
key or the lock assembly or both.
Question: 2004 Chevy Lumina, miles. The left door handle
was broken during a theft attempt. I replaced the handle with no problem, I also
cycled both the interior and exterior handles and manually tripped the latching
mechanism to insure the function prior to closing the door. I closed the door and
again both the interior and exterior handles worked fine to open and close the door.
Then I screwed up; I cycled the locking mechanism with the door in the closed position!
Now I can't get the door open at all. The exterior latch has a short travel distance
and the interior one has a normal travel. (As when the door is locked) I have tried
a coat hangar on the mechanism I can see thru the gap between the window weather-stripping,
the same between the door and frame to no avail. My question.
How can I get to the latch mechanism in the door? I need a detailed
breakdown (schematic) of the interior door molding showing the 'hidden' screws and
how this panel pops off. I also need to know if there is another way to get to the
latch or is there a way I can trip it from between the door and frame? I also believe
I know what I did wrong... the locking lever is not 'timed' with the lock tumbler
therefore the travel distance is not enough to unlock the door. I'd appreciate any
help. I'm using every resource I can think of for advice. Thanks Fred
Answer: What you may want to try, is to disassemble the passenger
side door for the information you need about the locations of the mechanisms you
need to fix you driver's side door. Obviously, the passenger side door is a mirror
image of the driver's side door.
Question: 2000 GM Pontiac Montana 3.4 mileage: 1,500. Hello,
Our question is: I am having a problem with my new Montana's door locks. When I
press the on lock button to exit the vehicle it automatically locks.
Also when I try to enter the vehicle with the key once it unlocks
and I remove the key it automatically locks up again before the door can be opened.
When we are driving, the locks are continuously locking and unlocking on their own
without our contact. We have contacted the dealer for the fourth time and they can't
seem to locate the problem. Please note that this vehicle doesn't have a remote
door opener. Please advise.
Answer: If an aftermarket alarm system has been installed
on your car, this may be the source of your problems. If not, the body control module
may be faulty.
Question: 1999 Chevy Astro Van mileage: 56,000. Hello. My
problem is that I have cargo doors in the back with a pop-up window/door. It usually
just releases and when you lift it up, it goes up and stays in place. Lately when
you release it and lift it up, it will not stay up and needs to be manually held
in place. Is it a hydraulic problem and is it something I can take care of myself.
Thank you
Answer: The lift shocks on the cargo door need to be replaced.
Lift shocks are pressurized with nitrogen gas, which, over time, leaks out and consequently
will not support the cargo door.
Question: 1989 Nissan Maxima GS V6 mileage: 32,000. My Maxima
has power windows, locks, remote entry/trunk release, and alarm. The intermittent
problem is that after the car is shut off and you get out and close the door, the
trunk will sometimes open, and the front windows will sometimes power down about
4" (all with no action on my part). Sometimes when you hit the remote trunk release,
the windows will power down 4" on command, but not always. We have come out to a
car on Monday am with a dead battery since the trunk had opened when we last parked
the car on Friday and we did not notice (light was on all weekend). I worry about
taking this to a dealer since we cannot consistently create the problem and it sounds
like an expensive one to diagnose. Any thoughts/suggestions?
Answer: Either your car is possessed or it has a bad body
control module. We hope it is the latter.
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