Repair Topics / Car Wont Crank

• How does a starter and solenoid work?
• How to check a charging system
• How to check a battery
• How to replace a multi rib belt
• Why does my battery do dead over night?
• Rapid clicking noise when I crank the engine over
• Engine dies after the battery is replaced
• All electrical stops when car is cranked over
• How does a neutral safety switch work?

MORE: Engine cranking questions

Car Wont Crank Over Questions and Answers - This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles

Question: 1999 Pontiac Grand Am mileage: 100,000. Hello Gentlemen, For the past few months I have had occasional starting/cutting-off problems. When I turn the ignition switch to start, sometimes the panel lights will not come on. I continue to turn the switch off and on (anywhere from a couple of turns to a couple of hours) until the panel/dash lights do come on. Once the lights come on, it starts and runs like a charm. At times, even while I am driving, for no apparent reason, I will hear the automatic door locks unlock and the engine will suddenly just die. Once or twice while traveling at highway speeds the doors would re-lock and the engine re-start as it coasted, before I could react an it would be just fine. I find this very annoying, not to mention dangerous. As always, when ever I have taken the car into the dealer, it works perfectly fine. I hope that I have provided enough info so that you may narrow down what the source of the problem can me. Thanks.

Answer: If we could run a test on your car when your problem occurs, we would probably find a faulty starter. The next thing we would check would be a bad connection in the wiring, especially the main power wire...could also be a faulty ground.

Question: 2004 Chevy Silverado V8_mileage: 32,000. We have no troubles with the truck; we keep a strict maintenance schedule. This morning went to start the truck the lights and radio worked but the engine would not engage. The engine wouldn't even crank. We had the battery tested, it was fine. We put it back in and still nothing. We are worried that somehow it is the Passlock security system but have not justification for our reasoning.

Answer: Scanning the computer for fault codes will tell you if there is a problem with the Passlock security system. If there are no fault codes to this regard, check the starter.

Question: 1997 Mercury Sable 3.0 24V mileage 3,000: I have a brand new Sable that intermittently will not crank. The dealer said they can't duplicate it so they can't fix it. When the car operates correctly, you turn the ignition switch to on and the message center displays the mileage and the info for whatever mode you last had it. When it won’t crank, the message center says Low Oil Pressure. If you turn the key on and off periodically it will eventually display the correct message and start but it could be 10 minutes or an hour. It can happen a couple times a day or once every couple weeks. By the way, the oil level is correct. I'm guessing a faulty computer or oil pressure sensor but I am sure I'm frustrated with my dealer’s lack of interest in trying anything. Mike

Answer: Intermittent electrical problems are extremely difficult to diagnose. The engine starter is probably causing your problems.

Question: 1998 Ford Focus mileage 66,000: I've checked all your archives, and I know there are similar problems like the one I'm having, but nothing the same. My car has this recurring problem of not starting. It won't turn over at all. I always have a warning before this is going to happen, though. The parking brake light and fuel cutout lights pop on, and by that I know that if I turn the car off, it won't start again. Also, there will be a couple instances before those lights will even pop on that I will have to turn the key more than once, listen to the relay click each time, to get the starter to even kick on. I've replaced the starter, the battery is at full charge, the connections on both the battery and solenoid are clean, yet I'm still having this problem. Here's the weird thing, and this has happened with both starters that have been in the car while I've owned it. I can jump the terminals on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to make the car start, and it will be fine again for a couple weeks after I do that. The only thing I can think is that the solenoid is sticking... but why would both starters do it? Do you think it could be something in the wiring?

Answer: We have repaired cars with similar problems by replacing the ignition switch (not the lock). We suggest buying it from Ford as we have seen some poor quality after market switches.

Question: 2002 Ford Crown Victoria V8 mileage: 40,000. Car won't start. Starter clicking but engine won't turn over. New battery, fender wall celluloid. Replace old starter with new, starting still just clicking. Actual production model is November 1991, Could this be an ignition module problem?

Answer: Without inspecting your car, it is hard to tell but, from what you have described and assuming the replacement starter is not faulty and the new battery is fully charged, it appears that your motor may be seized. The ignition module would not keep your car from cranking.

Question: 1999 Ford Ranger, mileage: 112,000. When I test drove my car it ran and started just fine, but about two weeks after I bought it it did not start at all it did not have any power what so ever - windows, stereo, lights, etc. When I want to start it I have to jump-start it and it will start well all day long, but when I let it sit all night it will run out of power over night. The thing that gets me is that when I bought it it went two weeks before it went completely dead and I just let it sit because I had no insurance on it, but now it loses all power just sitting all night. Do you have any idea what drains the power out of it? Thanks

Answer: From what you tell us, it sounds like you may be having trouble with your charging system. Have your battery load tested and check the alternator output for voltage and amperage. You also may have a drain on the battery that, overnight, would result in a dead battery. Here is the procedure we use to isolate a battery drain. Remove negative battery cable from the battery.

Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative battery post the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected. The test light will glow or "light" if there is a drain. If the "light or glow" is faint, that is probably normal draw for the clock or computer. If the "light or glow" is bright, then there is a large drain. That should be corrected. Now start removing and replacing the fuses one by one until the light goes out; that one will be the circuit with the drain. Remember to hold in the button in the door jam for the interior lights.

Question: 1999 Chevy 3500 Turbo Diesel mileage: 33,000. After the truck is hot, it will not start. The batteries are good and it will crank. When it is cold, it starts without a problem. After it starts, it runs without a problem, but if I have to shut it off, it has to cool down to restart.

Answer: What we have found is that when the starter solenoid gets hot it will not engage the starter. If you don't have one already, check to see if there is a heat shield that can be put on. Also, check with your local supplier to see if there is a performance starter solenoid available.

Question: 2003 Oldsmobile Alero mileage: 28,000. Hi, my '87 Olds busted it's timing gear and thus bent a couple of valves. I replaced the timing set, pulled the heads and replaced all the valves, seals, and push rods. After re-assembly, I find I have no juice from the ignition coils (no spark). I replaced and carefully adjusted the crank sensor but no difference. I have been tracing the wiring with a test light and it looks as though it's pointing towards the ignition module (not cheap!) but since I didn't go near the module during the repair, I hesitate to replace it. Is there a way to test the module directly (C3I system - separate crank and cam sensors)? Or is there a way to see if the module is getting signal from the sensors (cam and crank)? I have a lot of experience with pre-computer controlled engines but this has me completely lost. FYI, the cam sensor magnet is in place on the cam sprocket, all cylinders test to specs on compression and the ECM gives a code 12 (ECM functional) so I know I'm close.

Answer: First thing to do is a compression check on the engine. You can check the crank and cam angle sensors with a voltmeter. With the engine cranking over, the sensors should generate approximately 2 volts AC current.

Question: 1997 Corvette Convertible mileage: 74,000. Perhaps one out of twenty starts, starter will not turnover. All gauges light up headlights come up and are bright. I might try four to six times to start the car with no success. On one or two of those tries, I hear a click from the upper right area of the engine near the air compressor. I usually knead at the battery cables and a relay just behind the battery in front of the front door jam, sometimes it will then start. Not sure if it related or just chance. The last time I was taking a battery reading with a fluke across the terminals and my wife was able to start the car, again maybe chance. Is key recognition a possibility? Everything seems to work but the starter. It has eventually started for me so far and I have not moved the car if you’re thinking a bad spot on the armature, although, I guess that could still be a possibility. What do you guys think? I thought maybe this might be endemic to the 1997 Vette. So, before I begin yanking things out I thought I would ask the experts for your opinion first. Thank you for your time!

Answer: When you experience the condition when the engine will not crank over, here are some things to check. Load test the battery. Check that the battery cable connections are clean. Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position. These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter and starter solenoid. One of these may be faulty. You might also want to check for resistance in the wire connectors going through the firewall.

Question: 1996 Buick Regal mileage: 44,000. I am having starter problems. The car will run fine until it warms up. If we stop and shut the engine off and try to start, it up 10-20 minutes later, all I get is the starter clicking. I have to let the motor cool down for several hours before it will start again. I have had the battery checked and the alternator both tested fine. I have to check the fans to see if they are coming on and check the contacts on the battery. There is something ever stranger. When it does fail to start, I have noticed that the clock on the radio is behind an hour or two. No idea what is causing this. I am leaning toward the starter and starter solenoid at this point. Any other ideas at this point would be greatly appreciated. I want to try to fix this myself before I take it to the dealer.

Answer: Check for 12 volts at the starter solenoid with the key in the start position when the car will not crank over. If 12 volts are present, the starter solenoid and/or starter are probably faulty. If our memory is correct, you already have a heat shield installed to protect the solenoid from heat from the exhaust system. If not, it would be wise to install one.

Question: 1975 P6 Rover 2200 mileage: 67,000. If you were to try to start the car the sound would suggest a flat battery. All of a sudden, it would spring to life. The starter motor has been professionally overhauled and there is an extra earth lead between engine and body. Once started it goes 15 miles (fast dual carriageway) and then 8 hours later we do it all again. Any advice would be appreciated. Regards Ian

Answer: Here are some things to check. Load test the battery. Check that the battery cable connections are clean. Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position. These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid. One of these may be faulty.

Question: 1999 Mitsubishi pickup, mileage: 70,000. I was changing a tire and the truck fell off the jack stand. The jack stand remained upright but when I lifted the truck up the stand had bent a swing arm on the transmission that operated the gearshift. I straightened the arm but now the truck will not start. There is power to all systems but not the engine.

Answer: Check the neutral safety switch, it may need adjustment due to the bent shift linkage.

Question: 2002 Ford Taurus mileage: 67,000. I have a Ford Taurus fuel injected car. I could not start it after just driving in it for 5 minutes. The car was making a humming noise but yet would want to turn over. A vibration and humming noise was coming from an electrical box that is located above the radiator above the firewall. This part was disabled and replaced immediately. The car started with no problem. I then shut off the car to restart it and it wouldn't start. The same noise and humming was coming from the same area after just replacing it with a new part. Something is burning out or shorting out this part and it has to do with the drive train control module. If you have any assistance or know of what may be doing this, I would greatly appreciate your help and the money you will save me by putting this in the shop without a clue.

Answer: Check ground wires for poor connections and check for damaged wiring looms. If check ok replace your starter.

Question: 2002 Pontiac Bravada mileage: 130,000. I have intermittent starting problems. Battery O.K. Get full dash lights with key on. Turn key, get a small click. Upon trying to start it nothing then all of a sudden it starts after a few dozen tries. When the car is running computer diagnostics show no codes, yet this problem will happen from time to time.

Answer: Intermittent problems are very difficult to find. When the problem of the no start occurs, here are some things to check: Load test the battery. Check that the battery cable connections are clean. Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position. These things should be checked first, the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter and starter solenoid. One of these may be faulty.

Question: 1998 Mercury Mountaineer mileage: 42,000. We took my car in for an oil change, and afterwards it wouldn't start (unfortunately, our local neighborhood dealership didn't have an opening for twelve days, so we had to take the car to a quick lube and oil place - Valvoline) We had to have it towed to a local Ford dealership, and the mechanics there said the wrong oil was put in the car, and now the motor is destroyed. What is our recourse? Is the quick lube shop responsible for the cost of a new motor?

Answer: The type of oil (Valvoline is a good oil) would not have caused your problem as you described it. We can only guess at what might have happened. If the lube place forgot to put oil in your car and started it up, it would have seized the engine. When it was realized that a mistake was made oil was probably added after the engine seized. Have the Ford dealer check to see if there is any oil in the oil filter. If the lube place replaced the filter as normally is done during an oil change, and they forgot to refill with oil before they started the engine, there will be no oil in the filter.

Question: 2004 Toyota Camry mileage: 10,600. Had problems w/starter r & r'd starter hooked up booster cables wrong now it wont do anything checked fuses and fuse link?

Answer: Use a 12-volt test light and start checking the circuit from the battery on. If checks ok replace the starter.

Question: 2003 Mercury Sable mileage: 50,000. The starter doesn't seem to be connecting with the engine. It is spinning but it isn't gripping. It is firmly mounted. Could it be that the tines to the starter that grip onto the engine are worn down?

Answer: Your problem sounds like the starter drive inside the starter has failed. Replacing the starter assembly should fix your problem.

Question: 2002 Ford Explorer mileage: 84,000. I recently started the car and shut it off. A few seconds later when attempting to start the car all I got was a click, click sound coming from the relay (mounted next to the battery). I have replaced the relay, starter, and battery and still only get the click click. I tested the starter(s) by jumping from the new battery directly to the relay and still nothing happens. I am now going to replace both battery cables. Anything else I am missing and or should do? Thank you

Answer: Your entire starting system may by fine and the engine may be frozen. If the engine cannot be rotated by hand, it is frozen and it will have to be taken apart to find out why.

MORE: Engine cranking questions

Repair Topics / Car Wont Crank