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Car and Truck Clutch Questions and Answers - This category
contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo 5 speed 4x4. I am trying to replace the clutch
in my car but need to pull the transfer case in order to get the trans out. I have
removed all of the bolts and it will not budge. I have tried putting it into gear
and then out and pulling, prying, etc. Is there something I am missing? How do I
get the transfer case off the trans? I am 100% sure ALL the bolts are out, and it
seems to pull apart a little, but then just stops and will not go any farther.
Answer: When replacing the clutch on similar cars, we pull the transfer
case and transmission out as one unit.
Question: 1999 Ford F-150 mileage: 110,000. Hi and thanks for your
time. I am pretty sure that I have to replace the Clutch in my PU. I
am not up on the latest tech stuff and was wondering when replacing a clutch, what
else do I have to replace. Also, what parts would you recommend? I don't
mind paying extra up front.
Answer: When replacing the clutch, it is a good practice to replace the
clutch disk, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing. When the clutch
assembly is removed, inspect the surface of the flywheel, it may need resurfacing.
Question: 2003 Ford Ranger 4WD mileage: 77,000. Hi, My problems started
with a leaky slave cylinder, which I had repaired, since it was an internal slave
the mechanic suggested doing the clutch as well. After the repairs, I am having
problems shifting the vehicle into 1st gear from a standing start. The mechanic
tried to bleed the slave again it did not help. I noticed the clutch fluid
was very dirty as well. I took it to another shop that had a pressure bleeder
and they sucked all the fluid out and fully bled the system. This did not
help. The mechanic suggested replacing the master cylinder which I did
have done by another shop and the problem still exists. It does seem to get
worse, when the car gets warm, after about a half hour. One mechanic suggested
that they might have over ground the flywheel when they did the clutch and the slave
cannot push the clutch out far enough. To find this out it would mean dropping
the transmission again. Any ideas? Any help you could offer would be
much appreciated.Answer: The problem you are experiencing
with your clutch may be due a rough surface on the reground flywheel. If that
is the case, driving the car for several weeks should smooth out the rough surface.
We would suggest putting your transmission in first gear as you are rolling to a
stop to eliminate the difficulty of getting the car into gear. If the flywheel
is “over-ground”, you would notice an extra amount of free pedal-travel on the clutch
pedal.
Question: 1992 Nissan 240sx 2-cam 2.4 mileage: 150,000. I recently
had the master and slave cylinder replaced. The mechanic adjusted clutch pedal
one inch from floor. With in 100 miles the pedal is at top of its travel,
and the clutch is slipping. Mechanic readjusted the pedal to specs and again
is slipping. What could be happening?Answer: If the
clutch has not been replaced in your vehicle, it may be time for you to replace
the clutch disk, pressure plate and the release bearing.
Question: 1999 Ford Explorer V6 mileage: 85,000. How do you adjust
the clutch? If the rubber boot inside the fluid container is stretched out
and will not go back into the cover, will this cause the clutch not to work?
Answer: Your clutch is self-adjusting. The rubber boot
inside the reservoir will not keep the clutch from working properly. If you
have not replaced the clutch in 125,000 miles, you may be ready for a clutch replacement
kit.
Question: 2002 BMW 525i Manual 5-speed mileage: 141,000. Overnight,
my clutch pedal went to the floor. The car has a combined brake/clutch master
and the clutch slave appears to be on the outside of the transmission housing down
below. The fluid is within recommended levels. I had a clutch replacement
about 18 months ago and had problems with it needing occasional bleeding, but these
problems were infrequent and seemed minor. This time, I believe bleeding the
line is again the place to start, but I was not the guy who originally did the work.
My problem is I can't find a valve or release for the air anywhere near the slave.
The slave has a little nub/nozzle at the bottom, but nothing is attached to it and
my long-time trusted mechanic says this is not involved. I'm trying to avoid
a tow. How do I bleed the line exactly?Answer: The bleed valve should
be on the slave cylinder. If you cannot locate it, try bleeding the system
by loosening the feed line at the slave cylinder. Be sure the top is off the
reservoir before starting work.
Question: 1999 Isuzu pickup mileage: 57,000. I have a 99 Isuzu pick-up
with a five-speed transmission. The truck has 57,000 miles. Recently
I left the truck parked for a month, without starting it. When I tried to
start the vehicle, it lurched forward as if the clutch was engaged. I took
the vehicle out of gear and it started. I tried to put the vehicle into reverse
and all it did was grind. The vehicle will not go into gear with the engine
running. I checked the clutch cable and it seems to be fine. However,
when you let off the clutch pedal it doesn't spring back like it did before. Is
the clutch bad and how much is it to replace? There were no symptoms prior
to this.Answer: Double check the clutch cable, if it is okay then the
clutch may be at fault.
Question: 2004 Toyota Matrix mileage: 40,000. Three months ago,
my clutch pressed in but didn't come back out. I called my mechanic and he
ended up replacing a seal and another part (can't remember). This did the
trick until this morning when I went to start the car and the same thing happened.
I checked fluid level and was almost empty, filled back up but clutch still not
responding. Do I need to bleed line and how do I do this, or is it something
else?
Answer: The clutch system should not loose fluid that quickly. Locate
the leaking master and or slave cylinder and replace as needed.
Question: 1999 Chevy S-10 Pickup V 6mileage: 75,000. I was told
that my Clutch fluid was low but they couldn't add any. Where would this be
checked and filled? I'd like to do it myself but don't know where it is.
Answer: The clutch master is under the hood on the firewall
to the left of the brake master cylinder.
Question: 1997 Dodge Ram mileage: 108,000. I am going to change my clutch
in my truck, what is the most important thing that I should do when installing the
clutch.
Answer: Several things are important. Resurface the flywheel. Replace
the pilot bearing releasing the bearing carefully. Align the clutch disc while tightening
the clutch cover bolts. If the disc is not aligned correctly, the transmission will
not fit up.
Question: 1999 Ford F-250 5.8L mileage: 117,000. It is becoming harder
and harder to shift gears in my truck without great effort and occasional grinding.
The problem is especially apparent when the truck is first started in the morning.
I can't get it in gear until the idle dies down without grinding, especially in
reverse. When I get it in reverse the truck wants to start moving, a little even
with the clutch fully engaged. It is also hard to shift when driving and occasionally
grinds.
Answer: Good news and bad news. A simple clutch adjustment may be all
that is needed. However, if that does not work, you may be in for a clutch replacement.
Question: 1999 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder mileage: 44,000. I am having clutch
problems. The pedal feels a little week and does not disengage fully. I have to
force it into gear. I have tried bleeding the system with no improvement. I can
see the slave cylinder traveling 1/2 inch, is this enough? How can I isolate a week
master cylinder from a week slave cylinder? The clutch does not slip and their are
no apparent leaks. Do you have any suggestions on isolating the problem?
Answer: From what you describe, you may be ready for a new
clutch assembly.
Question: 1999 Honda Civic mileage: 31,000. Manual Transmission. When I press
the clutch in or release the clutch, I hear a "scrunching" sound. It's not very
loud, but it is noticeable. It's not really a squeaking sound, but more like something
is grinding together. What could this be? How can I (a non-mechanic) fix this myself?
Answer: Some times the clutch hydraulic system gets air into it and needs
to be bled. Lube peddle pivot and fulcrum points. If it is a cable application,
replace the clutch cable assembly.
Question: 2002 HONDA CIVIC , 70,000 miles. I have lost most
of my ability to accelerate. If I am going 50 mph in 5th gear, I have to downshift
to 4th gear to get any pickup. Otherwise, the engine seems to rev with no result.
Do I need a new clutch?
Answer: From the problem you describe, yes, you do need to
replace the clutch assembly.
Question: I own a 1992 totally stock Toyota 4X4 V6 Truck with approx.
117,000 miles. At about 100,000 miles, I had the original clutch replaced. The clutch
was working fine, but because of the mileage, I felt it would need replacing soon.
Since the truck would be spending some quality time at the Toyota dealership for
the infamous head gasket problem, I felt this was as good a time as any. The Toyota
dealer replaced the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, and turned the flywheel. The
new clutch grabbed when starting off in first and especially in reverse. It feels
like the clutch is chattering. I returned the truck to the dealer with the above
complaints. They claim they replaced the clutch once again, but it did not cure
the problem. At this point, they thought the recently turned flywheel needed replacing,
naturally at my expense. After all this the truck still has the same problem, but
less severe. If driven aggressively, the clutch works smoothly. The problem is most
evident if you just release the clutch without applying the gas. My question is,
what other conditions could cause this particular problem? Could the strength of
the new clutch accentuate worn engine mounts? Would worn out bearings in the rear
end cause this, and if so, how can you tell if the axle bearings are worn?
Answer: Your problem could be caused by improper clutch linkage adjustment.
One adjustment is under the dash on the clutch pedal to clutch master cylinder.
The other is on the clutch slave cylinder on the engine. Yes, worn engine and transmission
mounts can also cause this. I would be very surprised if the worn out bearings in
the rear end could cause the problems you describe. You can check for loose axle
bearings by raising your truck off the ground, lift each rear tire by hand, and
check for "play".
MORE: Clutch operation
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