Professional Mechanics Online Automobile Information Add Site to Favorites  


Auto Repair
Auto Repair Car Repair Home
Auto Repair Manual Auto Repair by Topic
Auto Repair Manual Auto Repair by Manufacturer
Auto Repair Talk Ask a Car Repair Question
Vehicle Repair Car Repair Video Series
Auto Repair Talk Car Repair Forum
Vehicle Repair How to Repair & Service
Vehicle Repair Car Repair Troubleshooting
Vehicle Repair How Does it Work?
Auto Repair Manual Discount Auto Parts
Vehicle Repair Online Repair Manual
Vehicle Repair Car Maintenance
Vehicle Repair Car Safety Information
Vehicle Repair Smog Test
Auto Repair Manual Diagnostic Trouble Codes
Vehicle Repair Engine Code Scanner
Vehicle Repair Avoid Car Repair Rip Offs
Car Repair Search Search Our Website
Car Repair Questions Auto Term Abbreviations
 
Search Website
 
 
Recent Forum Topics

 

Auto Repair1993 Mercury Marquis No ...
Auto Repair1994 Ford Ranger Warm En...
Auto Repair1992 Chevy Cheyenne Tens...
Auto Repair1999 Ford Escort While B...
Auto Repair1996 Honda Passport How ...
Auto Repair1991 Volvo 940 Replaceme...
Auto Repair1999 Ford F350
Auto Repair2000 Pontiac Sunfire Jus...
Auto Repair2005 Ford Expedition Lon...
Auto Repair1999 Lincoln Continental ...
Auto Repair2003 Ford Explorer Getti...
Auto Repair2000 Honda Accord To Dri...
Auto Repair2000 Chevy Malibu
Auto Repair1993 Mercury Marquis No ...
Auto Repair1998 Buick Lesabre Starting
Auto RepairMore Forum Topics...
 
Locate Auto Parts
 
 
Latest How-To Videos

  

Auto Repair Motor Oil and Filter Video
Auto Repair Engine Air Filter Video
Auto Repair Air Cabin Filter Video
 
 
 
 
 
     
 

Free Automotive Repair Advice by Certified ASE Technicians




Repair Topics / Clutch-1 / Clutch-2 / Clutch-3
 
Car and Truck Clutch Questions and Answers

This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.


 

Question: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo 5 speed 4x4. I am trying to replace the clutch in my car but need to pull the transfer case in order to get the trans out. I have removed all of the bolts and it will not budge. I have tried putting it into gear and then out and pulling, prying, etc. Is there something I am missing? How do I get the transfer case off the trans? I am 100% sure ALL the bolts are out, and it seems to pull apart a little, but then just stops and will not go any farther.

Answer: When replacing the clutch on similar cars, we pull the transfer case and transmission out as one unit.



Question: 1999 Ford F-150 mileage: 110,000.  Hi and thanks for your time.  I am pretty sure that I have to replace the Clutch in my PU.  I am not up on the latest tech stuff and was wondering when replacing a clutch, what else do I have to replace.  Also, what parts would you recommend?  I don't mind paying extra up front.

Answer: When replacing the clutch, it is a good practice to replace the clutch disk, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing.  When the clutch assembly is removed, inspect the surface of the flywheel, it may need resurfacing.



Question: 2003 Ford Ranger 4WD mileage: 77,000.  Hi, My problems started with a leaky slave cylinder, which I had repaired, since it was an internal slave the mechanic suggested doing the clutch as well.  After the repairs, I am having problems shifting the vehicle into 1st gear from a standing start.  The mechanic tried to bleed the slave again it did not help.  I noticed the clutch fluid was very dirty as well.  I took it to another shop that had a pressure bleeder and they sucked all the fluid out and fully bled the system.  This did not help.   The mechanic suggested replacing the master cylinder which I did have done by another shop and the problem still exists.  It does seem to get worse, when the car gets warm, after about a half hour.  One mechanic suggested that they might have over ground the flywheel when they did the clutch and the slave cannot push the clutch out far enough.  To find this out it would mean dropping the transmission again.  Any ideas?  Any help you could offer would be much appreciated.

Answer:   The problem you are experiencing with your clutch may be due a rough surface on the reground flywheel.  If that is the case, driving the car for several weeks should smooth out the rough surface.  We would suggest putting your transmission in first gear as you are rolling to a stop to eliminate the difficulty of getting the car into gear.  If the flywheel is “over-ground”, you would notice an extra amount of free pedal-travel on the clutch pedal.



Question: 1992 Nissan 240sx 2-cam 2.4 mileage: 150,000.  I recently had the master and slave cylinder replaced.  The mechanic adjusted clutch pedal one inch from floor.  With in 100 miles the pedal is at top of its travel, and the clutch is slipping.  Mechanic readjusted the pedal to specs and again is slipping.  What could be happening?

Answer:   If the clutch has not been replaced in your vehicle, it may be time for you to replace the clutch disk, pressure plate and the release bearing.


Question: 1999 Ford Explorer V6 mileage: 85,000.  How do you adjust the clutch?  If the rubber boot inside the fluid container is stretched out and will not go back into the cover, will this cause the clutch not to work?

Answer:   Your clutch is self-adjusting.  The rubber boot inside the reservoir will not keep the clutch from working properly.  If you have not replaced the clutch in 125,000 miles, you may be ready for a clutch replacement kit.



Question: 2002 BMW 525i Manual 5-speed mileage: 141,000.  Overnight, my clutch pedal went to the floor.  The car has a combined brake/clutch master and the clutch slave appears to be on the outside of the transmission housing down below.  The fluid is within recommended levels.  I had a clutch replacement about 18 months ago and had problems with it needing occasional bleeding, but these problems were infrequent and seemed minor.  This time, I believe bleeding the line is again the place to start, but I was not the guy who originally did the work.  My problem is I can't find a valve or release for the air anywhere near the slave. The slave has a little nub/nozzle at the bottom, but nothing is attached to it and my long-time trusted mechanic says this is not involved.  I'm trying to avoid a tow. How do I bleed the line exactly?

Answer:  The bleed valve should be on the slave cylinder.  If you cannot locate it, try bleeding the system by loosening the feed line at the slave cylinder.  Be sure the top is off the reservoir before starting work.



Question: 1999 Isuzu pickup mileage: 57,000.  I have a 99 Isuzu pick-up with a five-speed transmission.  The truck has 57,000 miles.  Recently I left the truck parked for a month, without starting it.  When I tried to start the vehicle, it lurched forward as if the clutch was engaged.  I took the vehicle out of gear and it started.  I tried to put the vehicle into reverse and all it did was grind.  The vehicle will not go into gear with the engine running.  I checked the clutch cable and it seems to be fine.  However, when you let off the clutch pedal it doesn't spring back like it did before. Is the clutch bad and how much is it to replace?  There were no symptoms prior to this.

Answer: Double check the clutch cable, if it is okay then the clutch may be at fault.


Question: 2004 Toyota Matrix mileage: 40,000.  Three months ago, my clutch pressed in but didn't come back out.  I called my mechanic and he ended up replacing a seal and another part (can't remember).  This did the trick until this morning when I went to start the car and the same thing happened.  I checked fluid level and was almost empty, filled back up but clutch still not responding.  Do I need to bleed line and how do I do this, or is it something else?

Answer: The clutch system should not loose fluid that quickly.  Locate the leaking master and or slave cylinder and replace as needed. 


Question: 1999 Chevy S-10 Pickup V 6mileage: 75,000.  I was told that my Clutch fluid was low but they couldn't add any.  Where would this be checked and filled? I'd like to do it myself but don't know where it is.

Answer:   The clutch master is under the hood on the firewall to the left of the brake master cylinder.


Question: 1997 Dodge Ram mileage: 108,000. I am going to change my clutch in my truck, what is the most important thing that I should do when installing the clutch.

Answer: Several things are important. Resurface the flywheel. Replace the pilot bearing releasing the bearing carefully. Align the clutch disc while tightening the clutch cover bolts. If the disc is not aligned correctly, the transmission will not fit up.


Question: 1999 Ford F-250 5.8L mileage: 117,000. It is becoming harder and harder to shift gears in my truck without great effort and occasional grinding. The problem is especially apparent when the truck is first started in the morning. I can't get it in gear until the idle dies down without grinding, especially in reverse. When I get it in reverse the truck wants to start moving, a little even with the clutch fully engaged. It is also hard to shift when driving and occasionally grinds.

Answer: Good news and bad news. A simple clutch adjustment may be all that is needed. However, if that does not work, you may be in for a clutch replacement.




Question: 1999 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder mileage: 44,000. I am having clutch problems. The pedal feels a little week and does not disengage fully. I have to force it into gear. I have tried bleeding the system with no improvement. I can see the slave cylinder traveling 1/2 inch, is this enough? How can I isolate a week master cylinder from a week slave cylinder? The clutch does not slip and their are no apparent leaks. Do you have any suggestions on isolating the problem?

Answer: From what you describe, you may be ready for a new clutch assembly.



Question: 1999 Honda Civic mileage: 31,000. Manual Transmission. When I press the clutch in or release the clutch, I hear a "scrunching" sound. It's not very loud, but it is noticeable. It's not really a squeaking sound, but more like something is grinding together. What could this be? How can I (a non-mechanic) fix this myself?

Answer: Some times the clutch hydraulic system gets air into it and needs to be bled. Lube peddle pivot and fulcrum points. If it is a cable application, replace the clutch cable assembly.


Question:   2002 HONDA CIVIC , 70,000 miles. I have lost most of my ability to accelerate. If I am going 50 mph in 5th gear, I have to downshift to 4th gear to get any pickup. Otherwise, the engine seems to rev with no result. Do I need a new clutch?

Answer:   From the problem you describe, yes, you do need to replace the clutch assembly.


Question: I own a 1992 totally stock Toyota 4X4 V6 Truck with approx. 117,000 miles. At about 100,000 miles, I had the original clutch replaced. The clutch was working fine, but because of the mileage, I felt it would need replacing soon. Since the truck would be spending some quality time at the Toyota dealership for the infamous head gasket problem, I felt this was as good a time as any. The Toyota dealer replaced the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, and turned the flywheel. The new clutch grabbed when starting off in first and especially in reverse. It feels like the clutch is chattering. I returned the truck to the dealer with the above complaints. They claim they replaced the clutch once again, but it did not cure the problem. At this point, they thought the recently turned flywheel needed replacing, naturally at my expense. After all this the truck still has the same problem, but less severe. If driven aggressively, the clutch works smoothly. The problem is most evident if you just release the clutch without applying the gas. My question is, what other conditions could cause this particular problem? Could the strength of the new clutch accentuate worn engine mounts? Would worn out bearings in the rear end cause this, and if so, how can you tell if the axle bearings are worn?

Answer: Your problem could be caused by improper clutch linkage adjustment. One adjustment is under the dash on the clutch pedal to clutch master cylinder. The other is on the clutch slave cylinder on the engine. Yes, worn engine and transmission mounts can also cause this. I would be very surprised if the worn out bearings in the rear end could cause the problems you describe. You can check for loose axle bearings by raising your truck off the ground, lift each rear tire by hand, and check for "play".
 

Repair Topics / Clutch-1 / Clutch-2 / Clutch-3

Look up your clutch question in our Car Repair forum section.

Got a Car Repair Question?
We will answer it for FREE!.

Related Subjects

GET AN ONLINE CAR REPAIR MANUAL. Get instant access to your vehicles drive belt routing, wiring diagrams, trouble code information, updates and factory bulletins.

Popular Service Repairs
Test Fuses
Front Brake Pads
Tune Up
Transmission Service
Rear Brake Pads
Rear Brake Shoes
Replace Window Motor
Test Alternator
Test Battery

Replace Air Filter

Check Engine Light

More Service Repairs...
Advertisement
Popular Question Topics
Alternator
Starter
Exhaust System
Fuel Economy
Rough Idle
Won't Start
Water Pump
Fuel Filter
Battery
Car Alarm
Multi Rib Belt
Catalytic Converter
Head Gasket
Intake Manifold
Motor Oil
Antenna
Air Bag
Fuel Pump
Seat Belts
Heater Core
Air Conditioner
Transmission
CV Axle Joint
Clutch
ABS
Front Brakes
Brake Rotor
Suspension
Oxygen Sensor
Mass Air Flow Sensor
Spark Plugs
Fuel Injector
Check Engine Light
EGR Valve
More Topics...
Popular Manufacturers
ACURA
ASTON MARTIN
AUDI
BMW
BUICK
CADILLAC
CHEVY
CHRYSLER
DODGE
FORD
HONDA
HYUNDAI
ISUZU
JAGUAR
JEEP
LAND ROVER
LINCOLN
MAZDA
MERCEDES BENZ
MERCURY
MITSUBISHI
NISSAN
OLDSMOBILE
PLYMOUTH
PONTIAC
PORSCHE
RENAULT
SAAB
SATURN
SUBARU
SUZUKI
TOYOTA
VOLKSWAGEN
VOLVO
More Manufacturers...

Car Repair Home l Help l Privacy Policy l User Agreement l About Us l Contact Us l Link to Us
  Copyright © 1998 - 2008 2CarPros.com - Professional Mechanics Online

Computer Repair