Repair Topics / Clutch-1 / Clutch-2 / Clutch-3
 
Car and Truck Clutch Questions and Answers

This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.

Question: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo 5 speed 4x4. I am trying to replace the clutch in my car but need to pull the transfer case in order to get the trans out. I have removed all of the bolts and it will not budge. I have tried putting it into gear and then out and pulling, prying, etc. Is there something I am missing? How do I get the transfer case off the trans? I am 100% sure ALL the bolts are out, and it seems to pull apart a little, but then just stops and will not go any farther.

Answer: When replacing the clutch on similar cars, we pull the transfer case and transmission out as one unit.

Question: 1999 Ford F-150 mileage: 110,000.  Hi and thanks for your time.  I am pretty sure that I have to replace the Clutch in my PU.  I am not up on the latest tech stuff and was wondering when replacing a clutch, what else do I have to replace.  Also, what parts would you recommend?  I don't mind paying extra up front.

Answer: When replacing the clutch, it is a good practice to replace the clutch disk, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing.  When the clutch assembly is removed, inspect the surface of the flywheel, it may need resurfacing.

Answer:   The problem you are experiencing with your clutch may be due a rough surface on the reground flywheel.  If that is the case, driving the car for several weeks should smooth out the rough surface.  We would suggest putting your transmission in first gear as you are rolling to a stop to eliminate the difficulty of getting the car into gear.  If the flywheel is “over-ground”, you would notice an extra amount of free pedal-travel on the clutch pedal.

Answer:   If the clutch has not been replaced in your vehicle, it may be time for you to replace the clutch disk, pressure plate and the release bearing.

Question: 1999 Ford Explorer V6 mileage: 85,000.  How do you adjust the clutch?  If the rubber boot inside the fluid container is stretched out and will not go back into the cover, will this cause the clutch not to work?

Answer:   Your clutch is self-adjusting.  The rubber boot inside the reservoir will not keep the clutch from working properly.  If you have not replaced the clutch in 125,000 miles, you may be ready for a clutch replacement kit.

Answer:  The bleed valve should be on the slave cylinder.  If you cannot locate it, try bleeding the system by loosening the feed line at the slave cylinder.  Be sure the top is off the reservoir before starting work.

Answer: Double check the clutch cable, if it is okay then the clutch may be at fault.

Question: 2004 Toyota Matrix mileage: 40,000.  Three months ago, my clutch pressed in but didn't come back out.  I called my mechanic and he ended up replacing a seal and another part (can't remember).  This did the trick until this morning when I went to start the car and the same thing happened.  I checked fluid level and was almost empty, filled back up but clutch still not responding.  Do I need to bleed line and how do I do this, or is it something else?

Answer: The clutch system should not loose fluid that quickly.  Locate the leaking master and or slave cylinder and replace as needed. 

Question: 1999 Chevy S-10 Pickup V 6mileage: 75,000.  I was told that my Clutch fluid was low but they couldn't add any.  Where would this be checked and filled? I'd like to do it myself but don't know where it is.

Answer:   The clutch master is under the hood on the firewall to the left of the brake master cylinder.

Question: 1997 Dodge Ram mileage: 108,000. I am going to change my clutch in my truck, what is the most important thing that I should do when installing the clutch.

Answer: Several things are important. Resurface the flywheel. Replace the pilot bearing releasing the bearing carefully. Align the clutch disc while tightening the clutch cover bolts. If the disc is not aligned correctly, the transmission will not fit up.

Question: 1999 Ford F-250 5.8L mileage: 117,000. It is becoming harder and harder to shift gears in my truck without great effort and occasional grinding. The problem is especially apparent when the truck is first started in the morning. I can't get it in gear until the idle dies down without grinding, especially in reverse. When I get it in reverse the truck wants to start moving, a little even with the clutch fully engaged. It is also hard to shift when driving and occasionally grinds.

Answer: Good news and bad news. A simple clutch adjustment may be all that is needed. However, if that does not work, you may be in for a clutch replacement.

Question: 1999 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder mileage: 44,000. I am having clutch problems. The pedal feels a little week and does not disengage fully. I have to force it into gear. I have tried bleeding the system with no improvement. I can see the slave cylinder traveling 1/2 inch, is this enough? How can I isolate a week master cylinder from a week slave cylinder? The clutch does not slip and their are no apparent leaks. Do you have any suggestions on isolating the problem?

Answer: From what you describe, you may be ready for a new clutch assembly.

Answer: Some times the clutch hydraulic system gets air into it and needs to be bled. Lube peddle pivot and fulcrum points. If it is a cable application, replace the clutch cable assembly.

Question:   2002 HONDA CIVIC , 70,000 miles. I have lost most of my ability to accelerate. If I am going 50 mph in 5th gear, I have to downshift to 4th gear to get any pickup. Otherwise, the engine seems to rev with no result. Do I need a new clutch?

Answer:   From the problem you describe, yes, you do need to replace the clutch assembly.

Question: I own a 1992 totally stock Toyota 4X4 V6 Truck with approx. 117,000 miles. At about 100,000 miles, I had the original clutch replaced. The clutch was working fine, but because of the mileage, I felt it would need replacing soon. Since the truck would be spending some quality time at the Toyota dealership for the infamous head gasket problem, I felt this was as good a time as any. The Toyota dealer replaced the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, and turned the flywheel. The new clutch grabbed when starting off in first and especially in reverse. It feels like the clutch is chattering. I returned the truck to the dealer with the above complaints. They claim they replaced the clutch once again, but it did not cure the problem. At this point, they thought the recently turned flywheel needed replacing, naturally at my expense. After all this the truck still has the same problem, but less severe. If driven aggressively, the clutch works smoothly. The problem is most evident if you just release the clutch without applying the gas. My question is, what other conditions could cause this particular problem? Could the strength of the new clutch accentuate worn engine mounts? Would worn out bearings in the rear end cause this, and if so, how can you tell if the axle bearings are worn?

Answer: Your problem could be caused by improper clutch linkage adjustment. One adjustment is under the dash on the clutch pedal to clutch master cylinder. The other is on the clutch slave cylinder on the engine. Yes, worn engine and transmission mounts can also cause this. I would be very surprised if the worn out bearings in the rear end could cause the problems you describe. You can check for loose axle bearings by raising your truck off the ground, lift each rear tire by hand, and check for "play".
 

Repair Topics / Clutch-1 / Clutch-2 / Clutch-3

Replace Air Filter

Check Engine Light