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Repair Topics / Brake Pads-1 / Brake Pads-2 / Brake Pads-3 / Brake Pads-4 / Brake Pads-5 / Brake Pads-6 / Brake Pads-7 / Brake Pads-8

ABS Brake Questions and Answers

This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.

Question: 1999 Acura Integra mileage: 82,000. The ABS light on my car was on so I brought the car to the mechanic and he said he didn't know why it was on so he unplugged the ABS. I thought that would help the breaks sound better, but they are getting worse they squeak and make a grinding noise when I stop short. Do you think I need new breaks? If so, how much do you think they will cost, for front and back?

Answer: The “ABS” (antilock breaking systems) light will “light” when there is a malfunction in the braking system. The fault code is then stored in the computer. The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. Because the ABS light indicates something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood automobile service center sooner rather than later is recommended. Your ABS system may not be functioning. The grinding and squeaking noise is probably caused by the brake pads being worn down (metal to metal contact). Have the brakes inspected ASAP. The cost will depend upon how much damage if any is found.



Question: 2002 Ford Explorer mileage: 91,250. I have noticed that when slowing down, the vehicle (not the brake pedal) surges a bit, rhythmically, until I come to a complete stop. This is a subtle surge that feels like the brakes are engaging and disengaging while coming to a moderate stop. I recently replaced all 4 brake pads but the problem still continues. I also have a vibration through the entire vehicle when traveling above 65 mph. I've had the front end aligned twice and rotated the tires but the vibration continues. Are these two related?

Answer: Your surging while applying the brakes is probably due to warped brake rotors. Re- machining the rotors true should fix that problem. A vibration at 65 mph is normally due to tire balance. You mentioned that you had the front-end aligned twice. This is not the same as balancing the tires.


Question: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 mileage: 37,000. Car has anti-lock brakes and when coming to a stop the brake pedal pulsates and drops down approximately 1/4". It acts as if it were on ice.

Answer: The “ABS” (antilock breaking systems) is computer controlled. If there is a malfunction in the braking system a fault code is then stored in the computer. The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. Your ABS system may not be functioning properly.


Question: 1997 Eagle Talon mileage: 110,000. I'm trying to replace my brake rotors, and can't get them off. Do I need a special "gear-puller" type of tool, or a bigger hammer?

Answer: They should come off easily. Yours may be rusted on. Try soaking with WD.40 and tap with a hammer.


Question: 2003 Dodge Intrepid ES mileage: 58,000 klms. The problem is front wheel vibration, normally while braking. The discs and pads have been replaced and also the left hand tie rod, which had a defective bush at the steering rack, end. Any other ideas, what else can cause this?

Answer: It sounds like the brake rotors may be causing your problem. Try re-machining them. Also, do not over tighten the lug nuts.


Question: 2002 Chevy s-10 blazer mileage: 107,000. The vehicle will pull to the right when braking only in wet/cold conditions. I thought it might be a bad rear cylinder. I replaced the passenger side cylinder. It was leaking. The problem is still occurring, however. What could it be?

Answer: Check the front brakes. Your problem is probably there. Also, if the rear brakes got brake fluid on them, replace the brake shoes. Also, check for loose or worn front suspension parts.


Question: 2003 Toyota Corolla mileage: 56,000. I recently purchased a Toyota Corolla for my daughter. It now has a problem with the brakes, the pedal seems fine most of the time but occasionally it slowly fades almost to the floor...it stops fine but this is of definite concern. The fluid level is fine, there are no visible signs of leakage at the calipers, wheel cylinders, lines, and master cylinder.... probably the master cylinder needs to be replaced...would this be your best guess as well?

Answer: Yes, that would be our guess also.


Question: 1999 Ford Taurus mileage: 119,000. After parking my daughters car in a lot while shopping, I went to leave and it felt like the brakes were locked up; it stayed like that until I drove about 25 feet then I felt a release. Now my daughter called from work (2 days later) and says that the passenger rear wheel won’t turn and that it feels like the brakes are on. I have to go down to the parking lot in the morning and try to get it home. (P.S. the parking brake has not been used in either instance, but I did try to apply it and release it again and I could barely push the pedal down at all to apply it)

Answer: It appears that you have problems with the rear brakes. Remove the drums and inspect for broken springs or other parts.



Question: 1999 Chevy Astro AWD 4.3 mileage: 94,000. A front brake hose leaked all the brake fluid from the master cylinder. After repairing it, the parking brake light and anti-lock warning light remain on. I have disconnected the battery to try to reset the computer and checked the switch on the parking brake and the inline switch by the master cylinder. The brakes work fine but the lights remain on.

Answer: The ABS (antilock braking system) light will “light” when there is a malfunction in the brake system. The fault code is then stored in the computer. The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. Because the ABS light indicates something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood automobile service center sooner rather than later is recommended.


Question: 1995 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi 3800 mileage: 75,000. I have both ABS and Traction Control. While driving, both of the dashboard indicator lights came on. I have turned the car off and on but the indicator lights continue to come on. My brakes (not the ABS portion) are still functional. Also, my traction control doesn't work. What do you think the problem could be?

Answer:  The “malfunction indicator light” will “light” when there is a malfunction in the engine management system. The fault code is then stored in the computer. The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. Because the check engine light indicates something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood automobile service center sooner rather than later is recommended.


Question: 1999 Chevy Lumina mileage: 84,200. I just got the front and rear brakes replaced today. They also had to replace the front calipers. When I picked up my car and drove away, I noticed that I had to push the brake pedal down almost all the way to come to a complete stop. It also made a sloshing noise (which I took to be that they were still "bleeding"). I wasn't expecting to have to push the pedal so far down...I have to press it farther than when the old, bad brakes were on there. The mechanic told me that the pads were semi-metallic and would take about 100 miles or so for them to mold to the drums. I've not heard of this before. I just want to make sure I'm able to stop!

Answer: If you feel the brakes are not correct, return to the service center that replaced them. The brakes should work as good or better than the old brakes. The drums or rotors may need to be machined or the hydraulic brake system bleed.


Question: 1999 Chevy Astro mileage: 112,758. My 99 Astro with antilock brakes and hydro-boost during medium to hard braking at high speeds makes a strange noise (sounds like tires on a steel deck bridge). The brake pedal is being forced up against your resistance. If you let up off the pedal, and reapply it will generally pull left or right. I replaced the hydro-boost with a used unit. The problem still persists. No problems with power steering, as I understand they operate off of the same pump. Any suggestions on how to solve this problem?

Answer: From what you describe, you appear to be having problems with the anti-lock braking system (ABS). Scan to trouble shoot problem, replace components as needed.


Question: 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme mileage: 50,000. I have repaired all the brakes on my past cars. A local mechanic has told me that it requires a special tool to replace the pads on the rear brakes. Is this true or is this a ploy to make money? (A lot of money) This is an ABS system. Thank You

Answer: A special tool is required to retract the rear brake pistons.


Question: 2001 Ford Thunderbird, mileage: 68,000. I just changed the rear brakes and calipers on this car. When I went to bleed the brakes, I got no fluid to the rear calipers. These are hydraulic brakes and I think there is a procedure to accomplish this. I have tried to reset the proportioner valve didn’t seem to change also tried to crack the front bleeders while applying pressure to the peddle. Have had the engine running and not. I have talked to several shops and many say you need to do several different functions to reset the system. If you have any information on this procedure, it may help.

Answer:  Check to see that the master cylinder is full of brake fluid. Loosen the brake line at the rear caliper, apply the brake pedal, and check for brake fluid at the fitting. If fluid is present then there is a blockage in the calipers.

Repair Topics / Brake Pads-1 / Brake Pads-2 / Brake Pads-3 / Brake Pads-4 / Brake Pads-5 / Brake Pads-6 / Brake Pads-7 / Brake Pads-8

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