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ABS Brake Questions and Answers
This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.
 Question:
1999 Acura Integra mileage: 82,000. The ABS
light on my car was on so I brought the car
to the mechanic and he said he didn't know
why it was on so he unplugged the ABS. I
thought that would help the breaks sound
better, but they are getting worse they
squeak and make a grinding noise when I stop
short. Do you think I need new breaks? If
so, how much do you think they will cost,
for front and back?
Answer: The “ABS” (antilock breaking
systems) light will “light” when there is a
malfunction in the braking system. The fault
code is then stored in the computer. The
computer must be scanned to retrieve these
stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning
component. Because the ABS light indicates
something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood
automobile service center sooner rather than
later is recommended. Your ABS system may not be
functioning. The grinding and squeaking noise is
probably caused by the brake pads being worn
down (metal to metal contact). Have the brakes
inspected ASAP. The cost will depend upon how
much damage if any is found.
Question: 2002 Ford Explorer mileage:
91,250. I have noticed that when slowing down,
the vehicle (not the brake pedal) surges a bit,
rhythmically, until I come to a complete stop.
This is a subtle surge that feels like the
brakes are engaging and disengaging while coming
to a moderate stop. I recently replaced all 4
brake pads but the problem still continues. I
also have a vibration through the entire vehicle
when traveling above 65 mph. I've had the front
end aligned twice and rotated the tires but the
vibration continues. Are these two related?
Answer: Your surging while applying
the brakes is probably due to warped brake
rotors. Re- machining the rotors true should fix
that problem. A vibration at 65 mph is normally
due to tire balance. You mentioned that you had
the front-end aligned twice. This is not the
same as balancing the tires.
Question: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8
mileage: 37,000. Car has anti-lock brakes and
when coming to a stop the brake pedal pulsates
and drops down approximately 1/4". It acts as if
it were on ice.
Answer: The “ABS” (antilock breaking
systems) is computer controlled. If there is a
malfunction in the braking system a fault code
is then stored in the computer. The computer
must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults
to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. Your
ABS system may not be functioning properly.
Question: 1997 Eagle Talon mileage:
110,000. I'm trying to replace my brake rotors,
and can't get them off. Do I need a special
"gear-puller" type of tool, or a bigger hammer?
Answer: They should come off easily.
Yours may be rusted on. Try soaking with WD.40
and tap with a hammer.
Question: 2003 Dodge Intrepid ES
mileage: 58,000 klms. The problem is front wheel
vibration, normally while braking. The discs and
pads have been replaced and also the left hand
tie rod, which had a defective bush at the
steering rack, end. Any other ideas, what else
can cause this?
Answer: It sounds like the brake
rotors may be causing your problem. Try
re-machining them. Also, do not over tighten the
lug nuts.
Question: 2002 Chevy s-10 blazer
mileage: 107,000. The vehicle will pull to the
right when braking only in wet/cold conditions.
I thought it might be a bad rear cylinder. I
replaced the passenger side cylinder. It was
leaking. The problem is still occurring,
however. What could it be?
Answer: Check the front brakes. Your
problem is probably there. Also, if the rear
brakes got brake fluid on them, replace the
brake shoes. Also, check for loose or worn front
suspension parts.
Question: 2003 Toyota Corolla mileage: 56,000. I recently purchased a
Toyota Corolla for my daughter. It now has a problem with the brakes, the pedal
seems fine most of the time but occasionally it slowly fades almost to the
floor...it stops fine but this is of definite concern. The fluid level is fine,
there are no visible signs of leakage at the calipers, wheel cylinders, lines,
and master cylinder.... probably the master cylinder needs to be
replaced...would this be your best guess as well?
Answer: Yes, that would be our guess also.
Question: 1999 Ford Taurus mileage:
119,000. After parking my daughters car in a lot
while shopping, I went to leave and it felt like
the brakes were locked up; it stayed like that
until I drove about 25 feet then I felt a
release. Now my daughter called from work (2
days later) and says that the passenger rear
wheel won’t turn and that it feels like the
brakes are on. I have to go down to the parking
lot in the morning and try to get it home. (P.S.
the parking brake has not been used in either
instance, but I did try to apply it and release
it again and I could barely push the pedal down
at all to apply it)
Answer: It appears that you have
problems with the rear brakes. Remove the drums
and inspect for broken springs or other parts.
Question: 1999 Chevy Astro AWD 4.3
mileage: 94,000. A front brake hose leaked all
the brake fluid from the master cylinder. After
repairing it, the parking brake light and
anti-lock warning light remain on. I have
disconnected the battery to try to reset the
computer and checked the switch on the parking
brake and the inline switch by the master
cylinder. The brakes work fine but the lights
remain on.
Answer: The ABS (antilock braking
system) light will “light” when there is a
malfunction in the brake system. The fault code
is then stored in the computer. The computer
must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults
to pinpoint the malfunctioning component.
Because the ABS light indicates something is
wrong, a trip to you neighborhood automobile
service center sooner rather than later is
recommended.
Question: 1995 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi
3800 mileage: 75,000. I have both ABS and
Traction Control. While driving, both of the
dashboard indicator lights came on. I have
turned the car off and on but the indicator
lights continue to come on. My brakes (not the
ABS portion) are still functional. Also, my
traction control doesn't work. What do you think
the problem could be?
Answer: The “malfunction indicator
light” will “light” when there is a malfunction
in the engine management system. The fault code
is then stored in the computer. The computer
must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults
to pinpoint the malfunctioning component.
Because the check engine light indicates
something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood
automobile service center sooner rather than
later is recommended.
Question: 1999 Chevy Lumina mileage:
84,200. I just got the front and rear brakes
replaced today. They also had to replace the
front calipers. When I picked up my car and
drove away, I noticed that I had to push the
brake pedal down almost all the way to come to a
complete stop. It also made a sloshing noise
(which I took to be that they were still
"bleeding"). I wasn't expecting to have to push
the pedal so far down...I have to press it
farther than when the old, bad brakes were on
there. The mechanic told me that the pads were
semi-metallic and would take about 100 miles or
so for them to mold to the drums. I've not heard
of this before. I just want to make sure I'm
able to stop!
Answer: If you feel the brakes are not
correct, return to the service center that
replaced them. The brakes should work as good or
better than the old brakes. The drums or rotors
may need to be machined or the hydraulic brake
system bleed.
Question: 1999 Chevy Astro mileage:
112,758. My 99 Astro with antilock brakes and
hydro-boost during medium to hard braking at
high speeds makes a strange noise (sounds like
tires on a steel deck bridge). The brake pedal
is being forced up against your resistance. If
you let up off the pedal, and reapply it will
generally pull left or right. I replaced the
hydro-boost with a used unit. The problem still
persists. No problems with power steering, as I
understand they operate off of the same pump.
Any suggestions on how to solve this problem?
Answer: From what you describe, you
appear to be having problems with the anti-lock
braking system (ABS). Scan to trouble shoot
problem, replace components as needed.
Question: 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Supreme mileage: 50,000. I have repaired all the
brakes on my past cars. A local mechanic has
told me that it requires a special tool to
replace the pads on the rear brakes. Is this
true or is this a ploy to make money? (A lot of
money) This is an ABS system. Thank You
Answer: A special tool is required to
retract the rear brake pistons.
Question: 2001 Ford Thunderbird,
mileage: 68,000. I just changed the rear brakes
and calipers on this car. When I went to bleed
the brakes, I got no fluid to the rear calipers.
These are hydraulic brakes and I think there is
a procedure to accomplish this. I have tried to
reset the proportioner valve didn’t seem to
change also tried to crack the front bleeders
while applying pressure to the peddle. Have had
the engine running and not. I have talked to
several shops and many say you need to do
several different functions to reset the system.
If you have any information on this procedure,
it may help.
Answer: Check to see that the master
cylinder is full of brake fluid. Loosen the
brake line at the rear caliper, apply the brake
pedal, and check for brake fluid at the fitting.
If fluid is present then there is a blockage in
the calipers.

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