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ABS Brake Questions and Answers
This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 1994 Ford Explorer mileage
107,000. Front disk brake pads keep on
breaking/crumbling. I replaced 3 sets so far
in about 20-25 thousands mile. Does anyone
have experience or knowledge about this? Can
you help? I have been working on my car for
30 years and have never seen this. I also
noticed that the caliper is fixed with two
wedges a, I cannot understand how both pads
can wear out evenly? It seems one is fixed
on one side of the caliper, and other side
is the only one moving/pressed by hydraulic
system.
Answer: You may be getting poor
quality brake pads or the brake calipers are not
fully releasing causing a constant drag in the
brake pads.
Question: 1993 Mazda MPV V6
mileage: 87,000. When stepping on the brakes for
an extended period of time (e.g., when stopped
at a traffic light), the brakes go down lower,
and the anti-lock light and brake lights come
on. This happens intermittently. I would then
tap on the brakes again to make the lights go
away. At least three different mechanics
(including the dealer) checked out the brake
system and told me that there were no leaks and
the brakes were in good working order. The
dealer also told me that it was either the
anti-lock controller unit or the master
cylinder, but that they couldn't tell for sure
until the problem got worse. One mechanic
checked it out with a computer and found nothing
wrong with the anti-lock system. Shall I just
wait until it gets worse or go ahead and replace
both the master cylinder and the ABS controller
unit?
Answer: We suggest replacing
the master cylinder first. It sounds like you
have an internal leak in the cylinder allowing
the brake pedal to sink.
Question: 1987 Pontiac 6000
STE 2.8 mileage: 100,000K. My 1987 Pontiac 6000
STE has 4 wheel disc brakes with ABS. The
braking system has an electronic motor and pump.
The motor and pump must be replaced. New it is
over $1800, used, or rebuilt cannot be found. I
have been told that this system was only used
for a year or two. My Question is: Can I install
a regular braking system from another Pontiac
6000, without ABS. How hard would it be? Would
the cars computer system need changes?
Answer: Yes, the ABS brake system can be
replaced with a non-ABS system. A Mitchell,
Chilton, Haynes, dealer auto repair manual or a
specialty repair book for your make of car will
have step-by-step instructions so you can judge
for yourself the difficulty based on your level
of experience.
Click here to find out more
Question: 1988 Suburban 3/4
ton 454 mileage: 120,000. This is about my rear
axle and rear brakes. I had a leak on my rear
passenger-side axle for quite some time. I
didn't know if it was the axle seal that was
leaking or the brake cylinder. It was very small
and it finally quit. Since I planned a 1500-mile
trip, I was going to have it looked at and,
while they were at it, have my emergency brake
also fixed because the cables were frozen in
place and I couldn't apply the emergency brake.
I went to a major chain repair shop. The axle is
of the fully floating axle type where you have
to pull the drive shaft before you can pull the
brake drums. The leak problem was the seal on
the drive shaft on the passenger side of the
car.
When the mechanic pulled the driver's side
shaft, he let me know that the bearings were
dry, but they were still good. He replaced both
wheel cylinders, new brake shoes and hardware,
and put new seals on both sides of the axle. He
told me that he could not fix the emergency
brake because the replacement part was a dealer
item. So, he put it all together and I went on
my way. After I drove a block I came right back
and asked him if he put any new lubricant in the
rear axle housing since I knew the rear axle
seal was leaking on the passenger side. He told
me that he checked it and there was enough oil
in it. I drove the car the next day about 10
miles or so and my right passenger side rear
drum was very hot to the point that I could
smell it inside the car. I went back to the
mechanic and he told me not to worry because it
takes 1,000 miles for the brakes to break in.
Then I went on my trip. I got about 500 miles
of highway driving and I had a major rear wheel
bearing failure on the driver's side of the
car-the side where he said the bearing was
running dry. As I was driving at highway, speed
the axle completely failed and I had to be towed
to the shop. I went to the same chain repair
shop. They told me they had to replace the axle
and they also told me that the mechanic should
never have hooked up the emergency brake since
it was frozen in a partially applied position.
Could you please comment and give me your
opinion on what could have gone wrong on that
driver's side-wheel bearing and why it may have
failed? Al
Answer: The rear
wheel bearings are lubricated by the gear lube
in the differential by centrifugal force when
you go around corners. If the level of the gear
lube in the differential is low, it will
severely limit the amount of gear lube available
to the wheel bearings. When wheel bearings fail
the axle housing drops causing the brake shoes
to drag on the brake drums.
Question: 1999 Saturn SL1
mileage: 105,000. All new brakes. Rotors
machined, new pads. After a few days of driving,
there is a loud thumping when the brakes are
applied after about an hour driving. This does
not happen when car is cold. By the way, the
noise is coming from front passenger side. I
have a good brake it is only the noise that is a
problem. Nobody can pinpoint this problem.
Mechanic says defiantly brake problem but what?
This car had the problem with brakes repaired in
the U.S. but as you see, I am back in Canada.
Appreciate any advice. John
Answer: Check the caliper
slide-pins and bushings for wear. Also, check
the front suspension for loose components. If
all checks okay, try a different manufacturer
for brake pads.
Question: 1999 Chevy Lumina
3.1 mileage: 96,000. When I press the brakes to
slow down the car will slow in a lunging
fashion. I replaced the front brakes and rotors
about 2 years ago because the rotors were
warped. It feels like the same thing all over
again. I have 4 wheel disk brakes and when I
apply them with medium or hard pressure the car
stops great. I don't know if this has anything
to do with it, but I have dust shields on all
four wheels. Other than that, the car is stock.
Any ideas on what might be causing this?
Answer: Assuming that you properly tightened the wheel lug nuts to
the proper torque, the dust shields may be holding in the heat generated by the
brakes causing the brake rotors to warp. Replace the brake rotors and your
problem will go away.
Question: 1999 Pontiac
TransPort SE 3.1L mileage: 110K. The front
driver side brakes stick. I replaced the
calipers and brake pads, and bled the brakes.
That worked for a couple weeks, but then the
same brake started sticking. I recently noticed
that it sticks more when the air conditioner is
on. I also noticed that when they start
sticking, the amps go down in the van. Are my
brakes sticking because my amps go down, or are
my amps going down as a result of my sticking
brakes? What can I do to correct the problem? My
van has ABS and I am familiar with brake
systems, but I cannot figure this one out.
Answer: Check the caliper
slides for roughness. We have found some of the
slides roughly machined which tends to cause
them to stick. If they are rough, try emery
paper to smooth them out. In addition, you
should replace the caliper slide bushings. If
your problem persists, try replacing the brake
hoses.
Question: 1999 Ford
Expidition mileage: 90,000. I have in the last 7
months blown 2 a.b.s. units causing total brake
failure. One of the 4 plungers or pistons in the
front of the unit, brakes or shears of at the
turned recess. The end falls out and allows
brake fluid to escape when pedal is pressed. Has
there been a common problem with this or any
recalls. Can you advice what the underlying
problem could be and how to prevent it happening
again. BEST REGARDS FROM AUSTRALIA.
Answer: Carefully inspect
the ABS unit and see if any other component
close by is coming in contact with it as you
drive breaking it. Also, if you have modified
you car, this could be the cause of your
problem.
Question: 2002 Chevy S-10
4.3 mileage: 32,000. Just replaced factory brake
pads with Raybestos Brute Stop Carbon Enhanced
pads. Rotors were still in good shape, no blue
marks or deep grooves. I scuffed rotor surfaces
with 80 grit sand paper and applied anti-squeak
to back of pads. Also used the supplied stick-on
pads to the backs of the pads and installed
locating clips to the inner pads. After about 4
miles, pads started squeaking under braking. I
pulled the calipers back off, adjusted tabs on
outer pads so that they WILL NOT rock or pivot
in the caliper. I used anti-seize on all rubbing
blocks and caliper pins.
After five days, the squeaking has gotten
worse. The truck stops better than before, but
the squeaking is driving me nuts. Is this grade
of brake pad not good with my vehicle? Could the
pads be too hard for the rotors? Should I have
the rotors turned, and if so should I have a
slight groove cut into the rotors to keep pads
from moving? Please help with some ideas...
Answer: Sounds like your problem is
the brake pads. Although they may be high
performance, they come at a price, they do
squeak. Try replacing them with a standard
replacement brake pads.
Question: 2004 Jaguar S-Type
mileage: 26,000. I am having a challenge with my
brakes. When I apply the brake pedal, the brakes
stay on for between 30 - 50 seconds after
releasing the pedal, before they release. Have
had the car for about 26 years, do all my
repairs, and have for the 26 years. I have
recently overhauled the master cylinder and the
servo and fitted a new revac valve, any
suggestions?
Answer: We would suspect
that brake pressure is being held in the system
keeping the brakes applied after the pedal is
released. This is probably a result of the
master cylinder not returning all the way back.
Question: 2003 Hyundai
Elantra, miles: 56,700. Just recently I
discovered that my brake lights will not turn
off. When I lift the brake (from underneath)
just a little, the lights will turn off. But,
when the brake is left in the normal resting
position, the lights stay on. Is it possible
that the spring that pulls that the brake up
while not in use is worn out and that there is
not enough tension to pull it high enough to
where the lights won't turn on? If so, do I need
to order that part from my dealer?
Answer: It sounds as if the
brake light switch needs to be adjusted. It is
located on the brake peddle leakage up under the
dash.
Question: 1999 Ford
Thunderbird, miles: 56,987 . I bought an 99 Ford
Thunderbird. I've been having problems with the
anti-lock (ABS) brakes. I would like to know if
you can change an anti-lock brake system to a
(non ABS) system. And if so would it be
difficult or expensive.
Answer: It is not a good
idea to change the brake system in your car. It
was designed by the manufacturer to work with
ABS brakes for a safety reasons. We recommend
that you take your car to a qualified brake
specialist in your area that can take care of
the problems you are having.
Question:
1999 Acura Legend mileage: 105,000.
This has been going on for more than a
year, and I do all my own mechanical work so I
don't have a regular garage mechanic to ask
about it. Often when I depress the brake pedal
at 45 mph or faster it pushes back in the
pulsating fashion that indicates the antilock
braking system is engaged.
The ABS warning light doesn't come on at
any time.
And there's no problem with the braking.
But clearly, something's not right.
What's up?
Answer:
Check the brake rotors to see if they are
warped.
This would explain the pulsating that you
are experiencing.
Question:
2005 Toyota Camry mileage: 29,000.
Guys, I have a brake problem with this
car that has had me stumped, and honestly I've
lived with it so long and put so much money into
"fixing" it that my curiosity is the only thing
that keeps me from getting rid of it.
But here's what happens: Every 3000-4000
miles the front brakes fry themselves (i.e.
pads, rotors, calipers etc) literally turning
black with a crystallized shine, and the rotors
do not warp.
I have had this problem checked 10-15
times since the car had roughly 10K on it, and
everyone from Toyota to my best friend (ASME
Mechanic) is stumped.
The following areas have all been checked
at one time or another...lug nut torque, caliper
alignment in relation to the rotors, pad
material (organic and semi metallic tried), high
quality rotors, wheel bearings, axle shafts etc.
This car does not have ABS, and right now the
front brakes sound like a lathe running at low
speed with a dull cutting tool...so this means
time to get out the wallet again.
This job should take the total money I've
spent on this problem alone to about $2200.00,
so any additional areas to check or advice would
be GREATLY appreciated.
I thought the Camry was a great choice
when I bought it, but I never expected this type
of trouble.
Thanks again for your time.
Answer:
If the master cylinder does not return
all the way when the brakes are released,
pressure is held in the system.
This in turn causes one or more of the
brake calipers to drag.
Check the brake pedal linkage to be sure
that it allows the master cylinder to return
fully. If so the brake master cylinder needs
replacing.
Repair Topics /
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