Car Repair Help by Professional Mechanics
Repair Topics / Brake Pads-1
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MORE: Brake pad questions
Question: 1994 Ford Explorer mileage 107,000. Front disk brake pads keep
on breaking/crumbling. I replaced 3 sets so far in about 20-25 thousands mile. Does
anyone have experience or knowledge about this? Can you help? I have been working
on my car for 30 years and have never seen this. I also noticed that the caliper
is fixed with two wedges a, I cannot understand how both pads can wear out evenly?
It seems one is fixed on one side of the caliper, and other side is the only one
moving/pressed by hydraulic system.
Answer: You may be getting poor quality brake pads or the brake calipers
are not fully releasing causing a constant drag in the brake pads.
Question: 1993 Mazda MPV V6 mileage: 87,000. When stepping on the brakes
for an extended period of time (e.g., when stopped at a traffic light), the brakes
go down lower, and the anti-lock light and brake lights come on. This happens intermittently.
I would then tap on the brakes again to make the lights go away. At least three
different mechanics (including the dealer) checked out the brake system and told
me that there were no leaks and the brakes were in good working order. The dealer
also told me that it was either the anti-lock controller unit or the master cylinder,
but that they couldn't tell for sure until the problem got worse. One mechanic checked
it out with a computer and found nothing wrong with the anti-lock system. Shall
I just wait until it gets worse or go ahead and replace both the master cylinder
and the ABS controller unit?
Answer: We suggest replacing the master cylinder first. It sounds like
you have an internal leak in the cylinder allowing the brake pedal to sink.
Question: 1987 Pontiac 6000 STE 2.8 mileage: 100,000K. My 1987 Pontiac
6000 STE has 4 wheel disc brakes with ABS. The braking system has an electronic
motor and pump. The motor and pump must be replaced. New it is over $1800, used,
or rebuilt cannot be found. I have been told that this system was only used for
a year or two. My Question is: Can I install a regular braking system from another
Pontiac 6000, without ABS. How hard would it be? Would the cars computer system
need changes?
Answer: Yes, the ABS brake system can be replaced with a non-ABS system.
A Mitchell, Chilton, Haynes, dealer auto repair manual or a specialty repair book
for your make of car will have step-by-step instructions so you can judge for yourself
the difficulty based on your level of experience.
Click here to find out
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Question: 1988 Suburban 3/4 ton 454 mileage: 120,000. This is about my
rear axle and rear brakes. I had a leak on my rear passenger-side axle for quite
some time. I didn't know if it was the axle seal that was leaking or the brake cylinder.
It was very small and it finally quit. Since I planned a 1500-mile trip, I was going
to have it looked at and, while they were at it, have my emergency brake also fixed
because the cables were frozen in place and I couldn't apply the emergency brake.
I went to a major chain repair shop. The axle is of the fully floating axle type
where you have to pull the drive shaft before you can pull the brake drums. The
leak problem was the seal on the drive shaft on the passenger side of the car.
When the mechanic pulled the driver's side shaft, he let me know that the bearings
were dry, but they were still good. He replaced both wheel cylinders, new brake
shoes and hardware, and put new seals on both sides of the axle. He told me that
he could not fix the emergency brake because the replacement part was a dealer item.
So, he put it all together and I went on my way. After I drove a block I came right
back and asked him if he put any new lubricant in the rear axle housing since I
knew the rear axle seal was leaking on the passenger side. He told me that he checked
it and there was enough oil in it. I drove the car the next day about 10 miles or
so and my right passenger side rear drum was very hot to the point that I could
smell it inside the car. I went back to the mechanic and he told me not to worry
because it takes 1,000 miles for the brakes to break in.
Then I went on my trip. I got about 500 miles of highway driving and I had a
major rear wheel bearing failure on the driver's side of the car-the side where
he said the bearing was running dry. As I was driving at highway, speed the axle
completely failed and I had to be towed to the shop. I went to the same chain repair
shop. They told me they had to replace the axle and they also told me that the mechanic
should never have hooked up the emergency brake since it was frozen in a partially
applied position. Could you please comment and give me your opinion on what could
have gone wrong on that driver's side-wheel bearing and why it may have failed?
Al
Answer: The rear wheel bearings are lubricated by the gear
lube in the differential by centrifugal force when you go around corners. If the
level of the gear lube in the differential is low, it will severely limit the amount
of gear lube available to the wheel bearings. When wheel bearings fail the axle
housing drops causing the brake shoes to drag on the brake drums.
Question: 1999 Saturn SL1 mileage: 105,000. All new brakes. Rotors machined,
new pads. After a few days of driving, there is a loud thumping when the brakes
are applied after about an hour driving. This does not happen when car is cold.
By the way, the noise is coming from front passenger side. I have a good brake it
is only the noise that is a problem. Nobody can pinpoint this problem. Mechanic
says defiantly brake problem but what? This car had the problem with brakes repaired
in the U.S. but as you see, I am back in Canada. Appreciate any advice. John
Answer: Check the caliper slide-pins and bushings for wear. Also, check
the front suspension for loose components. If all checks okay, try a different manufacturer
for brake pads.
Question: 1999 Chevy Lumina 3.1 mileage: 96,000. When I press the brakes
to slow down the car will slow in a lunging fashion. I replaced the front brakes
and rotors about 2 years ago because the rotors were warped. It feels like the same
thing all over again. I have 4 wheel disk brakes and when I apply them with medium
or hard pressure the car stops great. I don't know if this has anything to do with
it, but I have dust shields on all four wheels. Other than that, the car is stock.
Any ideas on what might be causing this?
Answer: Assuming that you properly tightened the wheel lug nuts to the
proper torque, the dust shields may be holding in the heat generated by the brakes
causing the brake rotors to warp. Replace the brake rotors and your problem will
go away.
Question: 1999 Pontiac TransPort SE 3.1L mileage: 110K. The front driver
side brakes stick. I replaced the calipers and brake pads, and bled the brakes.
That worked for a couple weeks, but then the same brake started sticking. I recently
noticed that it sticks more when the air conditioner is on. I also noticed that
when they start sticking, the amps go down in the van. Are my brakes sticking because
my amps go down, or are my amps going down as a result of my sticking brakes? What
can I do to correct the problem? My van has ABS and I am familiar with brake systems,
but I cannot figure this one out.
Answer: Check the caliper slides for roughness. We have found some of
the slides roughly machined which tends to cause them to stick. If they are rough,
try emery paper to smooth them out. In addition, you should replace the caliper
slide bushings. If your problem persists, try replacing the brake hoses.
Question: 1999 Ford Expedition mileage: 90,000. I have in the last 7 months
blown 2 a.b.s. units causing total brake failure. One of the 4 plungers or pistons
in the front of the unit, brakes or shears of at the turned recess. The end falls
out and allows brake fluid to escape when pedal is pressed. Has there been a common
problem with this or any recalls. Can you advice what the underlying problem could
be and how to prevent it happening again. BEST REGARDS FROM AUSTRALIA.
Answer: Carefully inspect the ABS unit and see if any other component
close by is coming in contact with it as you drive breaking it. Also, if you have
modified you car, this could be the cause of your problem.
Question: 2002 Chevy S-10 4.3 mileage: 32,000. Just replaced factory brake
pads with Raybestos Brute Stop Carbon Enhanced pads. Rotors were still in good shape,
no blue marks or deep grooves. I scuffed rotor surfaces with 80 grit sand paper
and applied anti-squeak to back of pads. Also used the supplied stick-on pads to
the backs of the pads and installed locating clips to the inner pads. After about
4 miles, pads started squeaking under braking. I pulled the calipers back off, adjusted
tabs on outer pads so that they WILL NOT rock or pivot in the caliper. I used anti-seize
on all rubbing blocks and caliper pins.
After five days, the squeaking has gotten worse. The truck stops better than
before, but the squeaking is driving me nuts. Is this grade of brake pad not good
with my vehicle? Could the pads be too hard for the rotors? Should I have the rotors
turned, and if so should I have a slight groove cut into the rotors to keep pads
from moving? Please help with some ideas...
Answer: Sounds like your problem is the brake pads. Although they may
be high performance, they come at a price, they do squeak. Try replacing them with
a standard replacement brake pads.
Question: 2004 Jaguar S-Type mileage: 26,000. I am having a challenge
with my brakes. When I apply the brake pedal, the brakes stay on for between 30
- 50 seconds after releasing the pedal, before they release. Have had the car for
about 26 years, do all my repairs, and have for the 26 years. I have recently overhauled
the master cylinder and the servo and fitted a new revac valve, any suggestions?
Answer: We would suspect that brake pressure is being held in the system
keeping the brakes applied after the pedal is released. This is probably a result
of the master cylinder not returning all the way back.
Question: 2003 Hyundai Elantra, miles: 56,700. Just recently I discovered
that my brake lights will not turn off. When I lift the brake (from underneath)
just a little, the lights will turn off. But, when the brake is left in the normal
resting position, the lights stay on. Is it possible that the spring that pulls
that the brake up while not in use is worn out and that there is not enough tension
to pull it high enough to where the lights won't turn on? If so, do I need to order
that part from my dealer?
Answer: It sounds as if the brake light switch needs to be adjusted. It
is located on the brake peddle leakage up under the dash.
Question: 1999 Ford Thunderbird, miles: 56,987 . I bought an 99 Ford Thunderbird.
I've been having problems with the anti-lock (ABS) brakes. I would like to know
if you can change an anti-lock brake system to a (non ABS) system. And if so would
it be difficult or expensive.
Answer: It is not a good idea to change the brake system in your car.
It was designed by the manufacturer to work with ABS brakes for a safety reasons.
We recommend that you take your car to a qualified brake specialist in your area
that can take care of the problems you are having.
Question: 1999 Acura Legend mileage: 105,000. This has been going
on for more than a year, and I do all my own mechanical work so I don't have a regular
garage mechanic to ask about it. Often when I depress the brake pedal at 45 mph
or faster it pushes back in the pulsating fashion that indicates the antilock braking
system is engaged. The ABS warning light doesn't come on at any time.
And there's no problem with the braking. But clearly, something's not right.
What's up?
Answer: Check the brake rotors to see if they are warped. This would
explain the pulsating that you are experiencing.
Question: 2005 Toyota Camry mileage: 29,000. Guys, I
have a brake problem with this car that has had me stumped, and honestly I've lived
with it so long and put so much money into "fixing" it that my curiosity is the
only thing that keeps me from getting rid of it. But here's what happens:
Every 3000-4000 miles the front brakes fry themselves (i.e. pads, rotors, calipers
etc) literally turning black with a crystallized shine, and the rotors do not warp.
I have had this problem checked 10-15 times since the car had roughly 10K on it,
and everyone from Toyota to my best friend (ASME Mechanic) is stumped. The
following areas have all been checked at one time or another...lug nut torque, caliper
alignment in relation to the rotors, pad material (organic and semi metallic tried),
high quality rotors, wheel bearings, axle shafts etc.
This car does not have ABS, and right now the front brakes sound like a lathe
running at low speed with a dull cutting tool...so this means time to get out the
wallet again. This job should take the total money I've spent on this
problem alone to about $2200.00, so any additional areas to check or advice would
be GREATLY appreciated. I thought the Camry was a great choice when I bought
it, but I never expected this type of trouble. Thanks again for your
time.
Answer: If the master cylinder does not return all the way when the brakes
are released, pressure is held in the system. This in turn causes one or more
of the brake calipers to drag. Check the brake pedal linkage to be sure that
it allows the master cylinder to return fully. If so the brake master cylinder needs
replacing.
Repair Topics / Brake Pads-1
/ Brake Pads-2
/ Brake Pads-3
/ Brake Pads-4
/ Brake Pads-5
/ Brake Pads-6
/ Brake Pads-7
/ Brake Pads-8
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