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Repair Topics / Brake Pads-1 / Brake Pads-2 / Brake Pads-3 / Brake Pads-4 / Brake Pads-5 / Brake Pads-6 / Brake Pads-7 / Brake Pads-8

ABS Brake Questions and Answers

This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.

Question: 1998 Lincoln Town Car mileage: 60,000. Guessing at the engine size, but it is a v-8. My question is brake related. When cruising at almost any speed, all of the sudden the car seems to brake, and even has a burned brake smell from the front left after driving a moderate distance. The garage put it on a diagnostic check and found the left front brake sensor to be bad. I replaced this at a cost of $280. The problem is not fixed. Oh, by the way, this car has anti-locks. And, I failed to mention, that when it is braking (on it's own) all you have to do is tap the brake pedal and the brakes will release. This is definitely annoying. I took it back and now they feel it is the transmission not going to overdrive, so they did a tranny flush for $89.00 It still does the same thing. Could it be the rubber brake hose collapsing internally? They think not!

Answer: From what you have described, we believe that the ABS unit needs to be replaced.



Question: 2002 Chevy Lumina mileage: 37,554. Hello! Just recently, when I would go to brake, the brakes would make a "noise" and my low traction light comes on along with my antilock light. This does not happen all the time. I notice it a lot when I go to make a turn. It is harder to stop when this happens, but I just push harder on brakes. The antilock light turns off when I shut car off, but comes back on when I brake and this incident happens. It reminds me of being on ice, but there is no ice!

Answer: Have the brake pads and brake shoes checked. The "noise" that you hear may be caused by worn out brake linings. If the linings check okay, scan the ABS computer for fault codes.


Question: 1999 Ford f150 4x2 reg cab 302 mileage: 7,662 km. The brake pedal is pulled to the floor on its own when the brake is just started to be applied. With no pressure on the brake, the truck stops and the pedal must be pulled back by foot to release. Could the brake booster be causing this? What is the problem? Any recall for this?

Answer: Sounds like the power brake booster is faulty. No recalls that we know of.


Question: 1999 Jeep/Cherokee 6 cyl mileage: 81,000. The "humming" noise that I hear every time I step on the brakes continues to come on with a lot more frequency. It stays on for a few seconds, then it comes on again. I realize the noise is normal. What worries me is the frequency that it comes on. This problem just started about two weeks ago. Can you give me any clues? Thanks for the help.

Answer: The humming noise may be a vacuum leak in the power brake booster. If your Jeep is equipped with ABS brakes, the ABS unit may have failed.


Question: 1999 Pontiac/Grand Am GT 3100 SFI V6 mileage: 76,000. This one has my local mechanics stumped, hope you can help. My Grand Am has some serious ABS trouble. If I push the brake pedal slowly, it will go to the floor and not engage the brakes. But whenever I push the brakes somewhat harder the brakes do engage, but seem to pull somewhat. My mechanics and I aren't sure what part of the ABS system needs replacing, could you give me some guidance on what to do about this? Thanks.

Answer: Sounds like a master cylinder need replacing.


Question: 1999 Plymouth Voyager mileage: 90,000.  Brakes Not Working - parked my 1999 Voyager Minivan one night and brakes seemed to be working fine. Next morning brake pedal goes to the floor. Checked master cylinder and both reservoirs are empty. See no brake fluid leaks on ground. Have replaced both rear wheel cylinders in last 9 months, one about 3 weeks ago. Have replaced front disc rotors and pads about 3 weeks ago as well.   Brakes have been fine since then.  Do I have a bad master cylinder or could the problem be something else?

Answer: It is possible that you have a bad master cylinder but you should inspect all brake hoses and wheel cylinders as well.  Losing all the brake fluid in a short period of time indicates that you definitely have a leak somewhere. It should show up during the check.


Question: 2001 Ford Taurus  mileage: 34,000.  When I apply the brakes from about 40 mph or above I get a severe tire shake transmitted up through the steering wheel.  This is only felt while braking.  The car handles well otherwise.  Could the rotors be unbalanced?

Answer: We doubt seriously that the rotors are out of balance.  More likely, they are warped.  This may have been caused by heat generated during braking or over-tightening the wheel lug nuts. You need to replace the brake rotors.


Question: 1999 Ford Thunderbird SC mileage: 83,500.  I have a leak in my brake fluid (master cylinder).  Is there anyway possible I could patch it up other than replacing it.  The amount to replace is over 1200.00 anything that could be done please advise.  Thank you.

Answer: We do not recommend “patching” anything in the brake system.  Try getting a couple more estimates. Also check for lower priced parts online.


Question: 1999 Ford F350 crew cab 4x4 5.9 Cummins mileage: 120,000 truck.  My brakes from day one were not the best. I put in a Cummins diesel and now I pull big loads.   I can’t panic stop and they seem mushy.   I replaced everything the vac booster, master cyl, proportioning valve, calipers.  Now its worse.  I have bled them several times and adjusted my rears up close.  Sometimes they shutter when I stop hard and now even pull to one side.  I know the R.A.B anti lock things don’t work right because my rears will lock up.  I don’t get any fault codes ...now what?

Answer: We suspect that rear antilock break valve is faulty here.   Also, check the vacuum supply to the power brake booster to make sure it is sufficient.


Question: 2003 Ford Explorer 4 liter mileage: 73,000.  My husband has been trying to change brake pads, calipers, shoes, etc. and when he bled the brakes, he found no fluid coming out of the rear brakes.  The lines appear dry.  What could cause this?  He thought the rear ABS valve might need to be replaced, though no one has heard of this part needing to be replaced.  Our local dealer and others in town want big bucks for this.  Please help with any suggestions.

Answer: Your problem is probably not caused by the rear ABS valve.  What you should check for is brake fluid at the master cylinder.  Loosen each of the lines one turn, press on the brake pedal and look to see if brake fluid is coming out of both lines.  If fluid does not come out of both lines, either the master cylinder is out of fluid or you have a faulty master cylinder.


Question: 2004 Lexus-ES 330  mileage: 46,000.  I am working on my car and the brakes go to the floor. I bled the brakes, and road tested the car 3 times.   I checked the brake booster, which checked out ok.  The brakes held for a couple of weeks then started going to the floor but would hold if you pumped the brakes so I replaced the master cylinder.  I re-bled the system 3 more times and the brakes hold if you pump them but not on the norm.   I don't normally work on foreign vehicles so I am not all that familiar with them I am told by some of my friends that LEXUS AND TOYOTA had bad brake systems in the early 90's.  I would appreciate any help that you can provide-- before my wife hurts me FOR her car.

Answer:   If when you bled the brake system there was air in the rear brakes, then the rear calipers may be faulty allowing air to get into the system when the parking brake is applied. 


Question: 1999 Lincoln Continental.  Husband is trying to replace rear brakes...is having problems getting the caliper to go in far enough!   If you have any tips to help him and to keep any more tools from flying through the garage I would REALLY appreciate it ALOT!   Thanks!

Answer: The piston in the rear calipers must be “wound” or “turned” back in.  They do not push straight back like the fronts.  A special brake tool is usually required in order to perform this task.



Question: 2003 Dodge Caravan mileage: 54,000.  My parking brake does not work. I push it, and it goes to the floor. How do I remedy?

Answer: First check to make sure the parking brake cable that goes to the rear brakes is intact and not broken. Next check the rear brakes and the self-adjusters to see that they are free and working properly. If all checks out okay, then adjust the parking brake cable.


Question: 2005 Ford Ranger 4 cyl mileage: 25,000. Seems that on certain days, mostly on real warm days, when someone gets into the passenger side door the door doesn't want to shut (according to the computer).  Then when I am parking my truck, the dome light will stay on.  I copied down your suggestions and am going to try this out.  All this to say, My ABS and brake light stay on all the time.  I have had it checked out several times at the dealership and they can't find a problem.  A few years ago, I was coming back from a trip to Nashville and when I got just outside of St. Louis, I hit a major puddle of water on the highway.  About 20 miles later the ABS and Brake light came on and I immediately stopped to get it checked out.  The guy said the sensor must have gotten wet and it should fix itself, but the brakes are fine.  Anyway, the brakes work just fine only on very cold days does the light go off and it looks fine.  Do you know what I can do to fix this problem?  Are there sensors somewhere that I can clean up or replace?  Where should I start, since the mechanic can't find the problem?  Thanks.

Answer:   The “ABS” (antilock breaking systems) light will “light” when there is a malfunction in the braking system.  The fault code is then stored in the computer.  The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component.  Because the ABS light indicates something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood automobile service center sooner rather than later is recommended.  Your ABS system may not be functioning.


Question: 1999 Dodge Caravan  cyl mileage: 70,000.  I accidentally poured some motor oil into the brake fluid reservoir.  What are the symptoms?  What should I do to correct it?

Answer:   Assuming you have not driven the car and used the brakes, then replacing the master cylinder will probably correct any damage caused by your mistake.  If you have driven the car and used the brakes, then the motor oil is throughout the entire system.  The only safe thing to do under these circumstances is to replace all rubber components in the brake system (brake hoses and cylinder seals.)

Repair Topics / Brake Pads-1 / Brake Pads-2 / Brake Pads-3 / Brake Pads-4 / Brake Pads-5 / Brake Pads-6 / Brake Pads-7 / Brake Pads-8

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