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ABS Brake Questions and Answers - This category contains featured questions
as examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 1998 Buick Riviera 3.8 mileage: 60,000. I am doing a brake
job on my car it has disc brakes all the way around. I got the front ones
done and now doing the rear but for some reason I am unable to retrieve the cylinder
back so I can install the new pads. I have done as much loosen the bleeder
to release pressure but nothing is happening can you give me a few tips what I am
I doing wrong.
Answer: It takes a special tool to wind the caliper piston.
Question: 1994 Cadillac Deville. After the rear brakes
were replaced, the ABS brake light came on and traction disabled flashed in the
information area. I know it is because the computer needs to be reset but
I am not sure how to do this. My husband replaced the front brake pads without
a problem, and the rear brakes work fine - just unsure of the warning light problem.
I do not want to take it to the dealership where I was taking it because of the
many problems we have encountered. Do you have any tips for resetting the
warning lights?
Answer: Check the sensors for the rear brake ABS system. One may
have been damaged when the brakes were replaced. Try disconnecting the
battery for several minutes to reset the light. If there is a fault in the
ABS system, it will relight the light.
Question: 1999 Ford Ranger Super Ca V-6 mileage: 62,000. I had an
accident about a month ago where I rolled the truck onto the passenger side into
a ditch. There was minor damage to the exterior and it peeled the front
tire off the rim. When I got it back from the body shop, I noticed that the
ABS system kicked in every time that I stopped no matter what the road conditions.
It always kicks in at about 10 mph and I can feel it feed back through the pedal
and I can hear the system engaging. It has not lit the abs warning light and
the Ford dealer said that there is no code in the computer to read.
They suggested driving it until it really breaks and lights the light, but the feedback
is really annoying and I worry about brake failure. Could it be a sensor/abs
rotor problem on that front passenger side wheel? Thank you for your assistance.
Answer: Check the replaced brake rotor for a reluctor wheel that the ABS
sensor reads. The ABS system should not cause a brake failure that you mentioned.
Question: 2002 Mazda B2300 mileage: 70,000. When I apply the brakes
the pedal goes almost to the floor before the brakes engage, (when this fist started
if I pumped the brakes it helped but that doesn’t work as well anymore), and they
seem softer when they engage. If I push harder with my foot it gets a little
better, but not as good as normal. I checked the fluid and it is fine.
My friend suggested the master cylinder, what do you think? Great site by
the way!
Answer: You may have problems with the brakes themselves.
Remove all four wheels and inspect the brakes paying close attention to the rear
brakes and the self-adjusters. Also, inspect the wheel cylinders for leaking
break fluid. If everything is in order, try bleeding the brakes. If
the master cylinder is faulty, it could be the cause of your problem as your friend
suggested. However, check the other thinks we suggested first.
Question: 1999 Chevy 1500 series mileage: 86,000. My 1990 Chevy
pickup is experiencing problems with the instrument cluster. You can be driving
down the road, the speedometer will quit working, and then a few minutes later the
brake light will come on. When you press the brake pedal, the brake light
will start flashing and the speedometer will start working again. This will
only happen when the lights are turned on. During the daytime, this never
happens. I have replaced the speed sensor but the problem still exists.
You can remove the battery cable and of course, the brake light goes out, but as
soon as you turn the lights on and drive about 15 miles, it will start this same
problem over again. I have been told that the instrument cluster is bad but
that is hard for me to believe. I thought the instrument cluster only receives
information. I think it is something that feeds the cluster. What
do you think is wrong?
Answer: The “ABS” (antilock breaking systems) light will “light” when
there is a malfunction in the braking system. The fault code is then stored
in the computer. The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults
to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. Because the ABS light indicates
something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood automobile service center sooner
rather than later is recommended. Your ABS system may not be functioning.
Question: 1999 Jeep Wrangler mileage: 60,000. My front
right brake leaks brake fluid, and my brakes will not work. What should I
do?
Answer: Locate the source of the brake fluid leak and repair.
If the brake pads have gotten wet with brake fluid, they should be replaced.
Check the other three corners of the car’s brakes to make sure they are in good
shape. Finally, yet importantly, bleed the air out of the system.
Question: 2003 Acura Integra mileage: 80,000.
I replaced the front left caliper a couple of months ago. Now my pedal sinks to
ground at stop signs. I am planning to change the master brake cylinder.
I am wondering if there were any mismatch between the calipers, would it cause any
extra stress to the master cylinder. What bad effects can I observe from changing
only one caliper? Thanks very much,
Answer: The brake master cylinder is failing. Changing only
one caliper should have no affect on the master cylinder.
Question: 1999 Ford Escort mileage: 47,000. The brake pedal has
an extreme amount of travel before engaging the brakes (almost to the floor).
I have replaced one leaking rear brake cylinder, master cylinder and bled the brake
system. The rear brake shoes and front pads were worn, so they were also replaced.
The push rod to the booster is adjusted to its limit.
Answer: Check the self-adjusters on the rear brakes. Check to see
that the master cylinder push rod is adjusted correctly, bleed the brakes again,
and check for air bubbles.
Question: 2002 Ford Explorer mileage: 110,000. I have recently had
both front and rear brakes done. I notice however a squeaking which occurs
until I step on the brake which stops the squeak immediately. What do you
think could be causing this? There is also a grinding sound, which occurs just before
the car comes to a stop. The third issue which I have noticed is a thud, which
occurs sometimes when the car comes to a stop, or when the vehicle first accelerates
from a stop. A local mechanic suggested it is probably the bushings, which
need replacement at a cost of about $700 for both. Might this also be a loose
motor mount, which would be considerably less expensive to fix? Thanks for
your help.
Answer: Have the brakes rechecked to find the grinding noise.
New brakes should not do that. Inspect suspension bushing front and rear, and motor
mounts.
Question: 1999 Chevy 1500 4x4 ext cab mileage: 166,000. Hi, since
last month I have had a clunking noise in the left front brake. I put new
pads on it and it was ok for a few days and started clunking on a slow down just
before a stop. I checked to make sure that everything was installed and tightened
properly, everything seemed good but noticed that the outside thin metal plate that
is riveted to the back side of pad was crinkled up. I removed that because
I didn't want it to get caught in the brakes. It still did the same noise.
I returned the brakes and put a new set on. The same thing happened.
I also noticed that the caliper had indented the back of the pad slightly, something
I hadn't noticed on other brake changes. I'm thinking on the line of caliper problems.
How can you help?
Answer: Check for worn or bent parts on the caliper slides. Try
buying factory brake pads. There are sometimes minor differences that make
a difference.
Question: 2002 Ford truck F-150 mileage: 47,000. I have two things to
ask about: 1. Is it normal at this mileage to have to replace the brakes and the
rotors? 2. I have a check engine light that keeps coming on. I had the oil changed
on time; would you know what else to check out on this?
Answer: Yes it is normal to replace the brakes at 47,000 miles. If the
rotors are worn undersize, there is a minimum size they can safely be turned to.
The "check engine" light will "light" when there is a malfunction in the engine
management system. The fault code is then stored in the computer. The computer must
be scanned to retrieve these stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component.
Question: 1999 Ford Taurus mileage: 128,000. How do I remove the front
brake calipers?
Answer: Remove the two bolts on either end of the caliper.
Pry the brake pads back lightly and remove the caliper.
Question: 2002 Ford Focus mileage: 83,000. I cannot seem
to get new disc brakes back on. The new pads are ok on the rotor, but the two bolts
that hold caliper on to frame cannot match up anymore. Are the bushings that the
bolts fit into adjustable? How can I line them up or make them fit? The rotor is
all the way in to the end, but those two bolts are too far in to catch. By the way,
I haven't done brakes in 15 years, because I have a company car!!!
Answer: We think your problem is the pistons need to be pushed back into
the calipers. This is easily done with a "C" clamp. It is a good practice to do
one side at a time leaving the other side for reference.
Question: 1999 Geo Metro mileage: 75,000. I was recently overseas for
6 months. While I was gone, I had my wife start my car once a week. Well when I
got back it started right up and I was really surprised all it needed was an oil
change. Then while I was driving it on my second or third day back I started feeling
what seemed like the brakes were sticking. Turns out both front brakes are sticking.
Thing is that they don't do it until you've been driving for ten minutes or so.
Then the longer you drive the tighter they get. One time I could not get over 45
on the freeway. That’s when I figured I better really check it out. I took it to
Midas because to be honest I had no idea. I am a decent mechanic but other than
both calipers going out at exactly the same time, I was lost. Well the guys at Midas
said there was nothing at all wrong.
So I drove it home and on the way it started doing it again. By the way, I jacked
each tire up individually to come up with both front brakes sticking. I talked to
a couple people and tinkered a little bit and decided to get the proportioning valve
from the dealer. After changing it the problem continued. Then replaced the master
cylinder after taking it apart. It seemed pretty worn. Problem continues. This has
really got me stumped. Even if both front calipers went out they wouldn't get tighter
and tighter the longer you drove it would they? Any suggestions would be great.
Thanx. Oh yeah one more thing. Midas said the fluid wasn't contaminated but even
if it was after changing the prop valve and master cylinder I've bled all the old
fluid out of the system.
Answer: Yes, if both brake calipers failed they would get tighter as you
drove because they are getting hotter and expanding, dragging on the brake rotors.
Remove both front wheels and with a pry bar move the brake pads back from the rotors.
The pads should move slowly with mild force. If they do not, the caliper pistons
are "frozen" in the bores. The next possibility is the brake pedal linkage may not
be allowing the master cylinder to fully return, holding pressure on the brakes.
Question: 1999 Cutlass Supreme miles 49,000 I have replaced the ABS brake
accumulator four times since purchasing new. It has 97,000 miles on it. This last
time I asked the tech, if something else in the brake system could be causing it
to go out. According to him, the accumulator is only good for about 50,000 miles.
Is this true?
Answer: That particular anti-locking braking system had problems.
Question: 2004 Toyota Sienna miles 45,000, runs great, but it use to belong
to my mother, I just bought it 3 weeks ago. The problem lies with the front brakes.
They were done by a so-called friend...they are fine but, sometimes I feel a grinding
sound. I put it on the rack. The rotors looks good, semi-metallic pads look good
although kind of thick. I don’t understand it. I even get a little squeaking now
and then. Mom told me they were replaced about 4 months ago but this does not seem
right. Others have told me that the thickness of an aftermarket pad can do this,
but I don’t understand it. Is it worth my time to slap some new pads on this puppy,
possibly check the rotors to see if they are warped? Help!!
Answer: Replacing the brake pads and brake rotors will fix
the problem you describe.
Question: 2002 Dodge Caravan has squeaky brakes.
The Dodge dealer says there is nothing wrong with the brakes. They say it's
dust between the brake pads but I don't hear other cars squeaking like ours.
Is there something wrong with the brakes on my car?
Answer: A brake squeak is a high frequency vibration.
Characteristic of cheap brake pads. Always purchase a high quality brake pads and
brake rotors.
Repair Topics / Brake Pads-1
/ Brake Pads-2
/ Brake Pads-3
/ Brake Pads-4
/ Brake Pads-5
/ Brake Pads-6
/ Brake Pads-7
/ Brake Pads-8
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