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Car Battery Questions and Answers

Question: 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3L mileage: 67,080. Approximately, 30 days ago I had my local roadside service give me a jump due to a "low battery". Since then, the "Rear Wiper", "Intermittent Rear Wiper", "Re-circulation", and the "A/C" buttons on the environmental control panel all blink in unison for approximately 16 -18 minutes immediately after starting the engine. These same 4 buttons also begin to blink when the key is in the "On" position. All 4 buttons function normally during this "blinking" phase. My only observation during this time has been the difficulty in "starting" the engine first thing in the morning when the engine is cold. The engine is slow to crank but does eventually turn over. I have checked the battery cells and they all seem to have enough fluid. The battery is the original Mopar battery and probably should be replaced. But, I wouldn't think this has anything to do with the blinking buttons. Any ideas as to why the buttons blink and then stop?

Answer: First, load test your battery and replace if necessary. Check all the fuses; if okay, scan the body control module as it may have been damaged when you had battery problems.

Question: 1993 Chevy Geo Prism 1.8 lt mileage: 82,000. The battery charging light came on, so we took it in to a shop and had the battery changed. The light stayed on. We then took it in to the dealer and they put in a rebuilt alternator. That was three months ago. Today, the battery light came on again, and the power steering has become really tight. Is it possible that some other part of the electrical charging system may be the problem? If so, what?

Answer: First thing to check would be the drive belt. Make sure that it is tensioned properly and not slipping. Next, check the alternator output.

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Question: 1998 Chevy Cavalier V6 mileage: 118,000.00.  Hello. I have a 1998 Chevy Cavalier  Whenever I apply the brakes, my headlights and dash lights get dim.  I have recently noticed that when the brakes are applied or the fan engages, everything goes dim and the car acts as if it is going to cut off.  I would describe it like when you are sitting in your house and you light flicker on and off real quick in a thunderstorm.  Can you please help me with this?

Answer:   From what you tell us, it sounds like you may be having trouble with your charging system.  Have your battery load tested and check the alternator output for voltage and amperage.  Also, check the various ground wires throughout the car.

Question:   1997 Chevy Cavalier z24 3.1 v6 mileage: 120,000.  While driving my car to work (headlights, heater, radio on) I noticed the battery gauge stays normal but whenever I turn my rear defrost on and my car is idling at a stop light, the battery gauge drops to almost nothing.  Before my car dies I switch the rear defrost off and it returns to normal.   While driving with the rear, defrost on the battery gauge rises a little but still low.  I needed a new alternator about 6 months ago and replaced it so I cannot have another bad one?  Alternatively, is it my battery?  Or a short?  Anyway to test it or should I take it in to be tested?

Answer:   From what you tell us, it sounds like you may be having trouble with your charging system.  Have your battery load tested and check the alternator output for voltage and amperage.

Question: 1996 Mazda RX7 GTU 4 cyl mileage: 100,000.  My son replaced the battery cables and the battery when the car wouldn't start; still no good.  Next he replaced the main fuse and tried to start it--blew the fuse.  Have you any idea where in the wiring he should look first (I don't know anything about cars, you might guess).  The problem is also that I just replaced the clutch and this car now seems Hopeless.  The dealer got my money and now is not helpful.  (You probably hear complaints a lot--sorry) help, please.

Answer:   Check the ground straps from the engine/transmission to the frame.  One may be loose or left off.

Question: 1996 Ford Explorer XLT v6 mileage: 85,000.  I have had trouble with my battery; it was a very strong factory battery, never had any problems until the other day, it does not turn over unless jumped.  The battery is not dead - I can use the radio and the automatic locking system and lights all work.  But, it won’t turn over unless jumped.  When the hood was up I noticed rat poop all over the battery and scattered around the engine. Still the truck started and drove fine once jumped; there were no noises or signs of trouble.  I even turned the car off and on a couple of times and had no trouble.  Have any idea what could be going on, I have a suspicion it has something to do with the rats.

Answer:  The rats probably will not hurt the battery but can do damage to rubber hoses and wiring.  As to your no start problem, have the battery load tested, it maybe “over the hill.”

Question: 1 year ago, I had the battery in my car replaced at Pep Boys. After starting the car with the new battery installed, I noticed the air bag indicator light was flashing. This warning light had never come on before. Recently at my 90,000-mile maintenance check, I had the dealer check the air bag system, and he told me there was an open circuit in the air bag control system, which would cost $900 to repair. I haven't had this 'problem' fixed. Forward to this week. I had my starter replaced, and today when I picked it up and drove off the lot, I noticed the maintenance indicator light was on. Again, this light had never come on before, and now after having my starter replaced it does. My owner's manual states that this light indicates a potential emission control problem. I took it back to the mechanic to check into this, and he checked the 'coding', whatever that is. He determined it was a hard code, and they couldn't reset it. He suggests I take the car to the dealer to check, which I'm sure will result in another $1000 repair recommendation. It seems too coincidental to me to suddenly have problems with the air bag and emission control systems, after having these unrelated repairs performed. Do you have any ideas related to what could be causing these warning lights to come on, and how I can have them reset without having needless and expensive repair done? I would appreciate any ideas. Thanks. James

Answer: The warning lights will come on if the battery is disconnected and reconnected. To "reset" the light, a special scanner is required. An independent auto service center can do this for you.

Question: 1997 Ford F-150 mileage: 66,000. I am on my third battery in this truck. The voltmeter seems to set at a different voltage from one start up to another. Sometimes around 11 volts, sometimes up around 14. It doesn't always fluctuate with engine speed, but sometimes it will drop when at idle. I'm wondering if I have a alternator problem or a voltage regulator problem?

Answer: You are right the voltage regulator/alternator may be failing. But first check the drive belt for the alternator. Is it glazed and slipping? Is it tightened properly? Also, check the ground wires. Are they making a good connection?

Question: A few days ago I went through water two feet deep and my car died in the middle of the road. I pushed it out of the water and after 20 minutes, I tried to jump-start it. After several tries, the car started. Two days later, the car stalled and the battery was dead with battery indicator sign on. I replaced the battery and the car started fine but the battery indicator light is still on. I am afraid that it will stop again, what should I do?

Answer: Have the charging system on your car checked. Your alternator may not be charging the battery.

Repair Topics / Battery-1 / Battery-2

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