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Car Alignment Questions and Answers - This category contains featured
questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 1997 Acura-3.5 RL 3.5 V6_mileage: 143,000. I just changed my
tires and have to get both my front upper right and left control arms changed.
Should I wait till this is done to get a wheel alignment or can I do the alignment
before the control arms are changed?
Answer: Sometimes replacement parts change the alignment slightly.
All of the front end components should be replaced first and then have the wheels
aligned.
Question: 1996 Nissan Maxima 3.0 DOHC mileage: 55,000. I recently hit
the curb pretty hard with the car. The tire didn't blow but it was enough to knock
the car out of alignment. I took the car in for an alignment and they cannot seem
to get it right. From what little knowledge I have on this subject I understand
that there is only a camber and toe adjustment on the car. The car normally pulls
slightly to the right and when I hit the gas, it really pulls to the right. The
mechanic, according to the alignment machine, got the car at L .10 and R .10 for
a total of .20 toe. Do you think that going a little more toe out will solve the
problem or do you think it's something else?
Answer: Try rotating the tires front to back. Some tires can make a car
pull to one side or the other. We have solved more pulling problems when the car
has already been aligned by rotating the tires.
Question: 1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette Premiere V6 mileage: 29,000. Both
my brother and I have 1999 Olds Silhouette Premiere Vans. He lives in Virginia and
I live in Florida. His Olds mechanic told him his rear tires had some cupping and
it is happening because a rear-end alignment has NOT been performed. My mechanic
today said I have some cupping in my rear tires but they are wearing evenly. He
said our model only has a front-end alignment- NO REAR-END ALIGNMENT. I'm completely
confused. I didn't think a rear-end alignment was necessary unless it has 4 wheel
drive or AWD. Our vans do have traction control but I don't see how that would matter.
Answer: Yes, the cupping condition you describe is caused by weak/worn
rear shocks. The tire is not controlled properly so it starts to bounce slightly
causing the cup or scallop.
Question: 2000 Chevy Silverado ext cab Z71 5.3 L mileage: 21,000. Since
new, my truck pulls slightly to the right. Despite alignments, tire rotations, and
swapping tires side to side, the problem persists. There was a slight improvement
the last time the front tires were swapped left to right, right to left. The dealer
does not have an answer. They told me this is not an uncommon problem, but the dealers
rarely will solve the problem. I checked the Internet, and there are a number of
other Silverado owners with the same problem that goes undiagnosed and uncorrected.
What do you think may be the problem, and what do you recommend?
Answer: All vehicles are designed to veer slightly to the right when hands
are taken off the steering wheel to prevent head-on collisions should someone fall
a sleep while driving. Assuming your truck pulls more than just slightly to the
right, you probably need to have some work done on the front end. This involves
removing the upper control arms and slotting the mounting holes to accomplish wheel
alignment adjustment.
Question: 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager mileage: 55,000. Steering wheel
vibration at 70 mph. Brought the van in 3 times for wheel balancing but vibration
still exists when I reach 70. Last time in for balancing they told me that they
saw some tire feathering and that perhaps I needed new struts and shocks. Is this
possible with only 55,000 carefully driven miles?
Answer: Try rotating the tires front to back. You could have a tire that
has a problem that you can only feel with weight on it. If the problem goes to the
rear, replace tires.
Question: 1999 Honda Accord mileage: 48,000. Six months ago, my Service
Center replaced the front struts on my '99 Accord. They did not say that a wheel
alignment was necessary at that time. I now have to replace front tires that have
only 7500 miles on them because the inner tread wear was so bad that the steel belts
wore through the rubber. I purchased tires and asked for the wheel alignment. Now
they tell me there is no adjustment for this particular problem and suggest I rotate
tires frequently. I don't believe this can be true, it sound ridiculous to me. I
think maybe they used the wrong struts or something else is wrong. Can this be right?
Answer: The wheels can be aligned on your car. The problem you are experiencing
is probably toe in or toe out condition. A toe in or toe out condition can be easily
reset.
Question: 1998 Honda Accord mileage: 80,000. Dear Bob and Ken, Let
me begin by saying that I thoroughly enjoy your website! It's #1 on my list! I searched
through your previous car questions/answers but was unable to find the answer to
mine. I still have the stock rims and just got a new set of Toyo Proxis H4 205/60/15
put on them. My problem is that my car pulls gradually to the right and I must compensate
to stay on the road by turning my wheel about 10-15 degrees counterclockwise while
driving. I have had the car aligned TWICE and it still has not fixed the problem.
I have been told that all my front-end components are in good shape (i.e. ball joints,
tie rod ends, sway bar bushings etc.). Can the shop just simply adjust the alignment
to compensate for this or will it throw the car out of true alignment? What could
be the problems and possible remedies? I understand that you are best so any help
you could give me would be greatly appreciated! Thank you and keep up the good work!
Eric
Answer: Try rotating the tires front to back. If problem goes away replace
rear tires they are defective.
Question: 1996 Lincoln Continental mileage: 86,000. The car needs a rear-end
alignment. Is this possible on this type of Continental? It is a front-wheel drive.
Thank you for your advice.
Answer: Yes, it is possible to align the rear wheels. Most alignment shops
have the equipment for four-wheel alignment.
Question: 2001 Lincoln Continental mileage: 14,000. Please
help! My brother-in-law recently had a wheel alignment done on his 2001 Lincoln
Continental at the Lincoln dealership where he bought the car new. When
he got home, he looked under the hood and discovered that they had drilled through
the spot welding and removed the circular plate on the top of the driver's side
shock support. They then did the alignment and bolted the plate back on.
When he confronted them about it, they said it had to be done. I'd never
heard of this before. My question is: did this in fact have to be done in
order to do the alignment? This car is virtually new, with only 14,000 miles.
Now I feel the car will be less structurally sound. And if it didn't need
to be done, what action can he take (if any) to rectify the situation? Thanks!
Answer: We are not surprised that the shock support had to be drilled
out and bolted back in place to do a proper wheel alignment. The reason for
this is that the car manufacturers no longer have adjustable front-end alignment
options. When performed correctly, it will not affect the structural
strength of your car.
Question: 1999 dodge/caravan 3.3 mileage: 120,000. How do I straighten
out my wheel alignment?
Answer: This is not something you can do yourself; it takes technical
equipment, which wheel alignment shops have. Check with friends and neighbors
to find a knowledgeable service center.
Question: 1998 Chrysler New Yorker mileage: 85,000. Get noticeable
front "wheel wobble" after backing car down home driveway ramp to street where front
wheels "bounce" in gutter while turned. "Straightens out" after one or two blocks.
Mechanics can't "see" anything, did brakes, checked 6,000 mi. tires.
Answer: From the problem you describe, you probably have some worn front-end
components, i.e. lower ball joints or tie rod ends. An alignment service center
should be able to check out your car and find the problem.
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