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All Wheel Drive Questions and Answers

This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.



Question: 2005 Ford F-350 mileage: 21,000: What is the problem with the automatic locking hubs? They worked once and that is it…this is the second set. What is the fix?

Answer: We have found that dirt and water entering the automatic locking hubs for the 4-wheel drive causes them to malfunction. Inspect the seals and clean the locking hubs.

Question: 1996 Ford Explorer mileage: 63,000. When turning left or right in 4-wheel drive, the wheels seem to bind [dry conditions]. One mechanic says to replace the u-joints, another one says the u-joints are fine. What do you think?

Answer: Part-time 4-wheel drive should not be engaged when driving on dry pavement. Check your owner's manual for further instructions relating to your specific vehicle.
 

Question:1999 Chevrolet Blazer mileage: 110,000. The vehicle has the electronic transfer case. It will not shift out of 4HI back to 2HI. I push the button, the light flashes and I hear some "clicking" from around the front wheels, but it stays in 4HI. Any suggestions? Is this a common problem?

Answer: Your problem is common and is caused by a faulty actuator. Replacing it should get your 4-wheel drive system working again.

Question: 2003 Ford Explorer mileage: 61,000. After running the vehicle for several minutes, it loses its 4 WD capabilities. The "4WD" and "4WD LOW" indicating lights flash six times than go out. This repeats at exactly two-minute intervals. While driving the vehicle, I switch to fulltime 4 WD but nothing happens. If I stop and put the truck in neutral and switch to 4 WD Low, it will go into 4 WD low. Switching back to 4 WD or auto does not take it out of 4 WD low. If the truck is shut off and then restarted it will work properly for approx. 3 minutes. This problem has occurred several times over the past 3 years, Ford has replaced the sensors and an electronic board, one item each time and the problem would go away for up to 8 months. The problem is back now and happens every time the truck is driven. There is also a loud BANG in the backend whenever you accelerate and the rear wheels lose traction.

Answer: Sounds like the actuator motor for the 4-wheel drive needs replacing. The load bang that you experienced when accelerating is normal for the type of limited slip differential that is in your car.

Question: 1994 Chevrolet K-1500 4 WD mileage: 65,000. I just put the Chevy in 4WD today for the first time to check to see if all is well for the upcoming winter. I normally engage it during the summer a few times for a very short period just to keep things lubed up. All was fine during the summer. This time however the indicator light for the 4WD in front of the transfer case shift lever is not lighting up. I checked the bulb and it is OK. I have not had it up on a lift or to the mechanic yet but when I do put it into 4WD-Low or 4WD-High I can feel the engagement of the wheels. Checked all the fuses and OK. Could it be the sending unit on the transfer case? What activates the sending unit and why is there the delay for the light? I know the delay is normal just wondering what causes it. Finally, should I take in for immediate look-see so as to not cause any major damage? Brad

Answer: The switch that lights the light on your dash is located in the actuator for the four-wheel drive. We would hazard a guess that the actuator is weak and is not fully engaging your four-wheel drive.

Question: 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4 mileage: 115,000. Bob & Ken, I have a problem with the four-wheel drive on my Ranger. One day I was using the four-wheel drive and realized that only the two back tires were pulling. Also, there was some (rattling) noise coming from the front passenger side wheel (even after the 4 wheel drive was disengaged). I have since taken off the front wheels to check out the automatic locking hubs to see if there was something wrong with them. One hub looked a little suspicious like some of the metal had been worn down inside. I then jacked the truck up off of all four wheels so that I could engage the four-wheel drive to see what was actually pulling and what was not. The back two wheels were both pulling.

The front on the other hand was not. The drive shaft leading from the transfer case would engage but the shafts leading to the wheels were barely even spinning. You could stop them from spinning by holding them still. My question is do you think that the hubs are bad and I need to replace them, or is something messed up in the "gear housing". I know you really can't know for sure from my description but if you have any advice that you think I could use, it would be greatly appreciated. Jason

Answer: The automatic locking hubs seem to be a high maintenance item on these Ford Rangers. Yours may need to be replaced

Question: 2002 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD mileage: 49,000. The problem just started a couple of days ago. I noticed no problems with the way the vehicle drives or handles...but the 4WD HI and 4WD LO lights on the dashboard periodically (every 5 - 10 minutes) blink 5 times simultaneously. The dash is normal for 5 minutes, and then the lights blink again. This happens repetitively whether driving in town, on the highway, etc. Since it has been nice dry, summer weather, I have had the vehicle in 4WD AUTO the whole time. Is there any explanation for the blinking lights?

Answer: The flashing lights indicate a fault code is stored in the drive train control module. Retrieving the code will pinpoint the malfunctioning component.

Question: 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee mileage: 105,000. My jeep is full time 4 wheel drive with a push button overdrive, automatic transmission.  4hi, N and 4lo is all my transfer case displays.  After about 20 mi. of driving, I get a binding/thumping noise and the truck hops with the steering wheel 3 quarters+turned in both directions. You hear and feel it through the drive train. I cant really pin point it to the front or back. I have replaced both half shafts on either side, checked wheel bearings; u-joints and drained and changed gear oil in front and back diffs.  Ring and pinions seemed all intact (No missing chunks).  This problem started a month and a half ago and is driving me nuts.

Answer: A special fluid or gear lube with an anti-slip additive is required for these differentials.  We would advice changing the fluid in all three, replacing it with the special anti-slip type of fluid.



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