Engine not starting?

What does the light look like? can you upload a picture or video of it so we can see what it is? When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

My 2000 jeep starts when it wants to and the check engine light is on. I can drive it short distances and it will start but not long distances because once I cut it off it won't start for hours. Had starter checked and it was fine. Nothing shows on the parts shops computer except "no codes found". S O S. -Marquita

"Won't start for hours" can mean a lot of things. Since you had the starter checked, does that mean it won't crank the engine? Or do you mean the engine cranks fine but it won't start and run?

If you hear just one single kind of loud clunk from under the hood and the engine doesn't spin, that is due to worn starter solenoid contacts. They can be replaced separately but most people just replace the entire starter. This problem always starts out as an intermittent problem. The starter will work if you cycle the ignition switch to "crank" enough times.

caradiodoc

Doc, Reckon this could be needin' shimmin',

You know I'm stuck way back in the '40s-'80s with my Real Jeeps,

I know little of the new stuffs starters,

Thought maybe a Good and Warmed up Flywheel might "Grow" and take up some Starter Clearance.......If maybe the starter kinda "Wedged In" during an attempted start.




Saw recent post of yours Doc, Never seen you get carried away on the keyboard as I do.........Imma Plumber too, Best Plumbing Service Technician, this side of the Mississippi! Still no job after Bone Doctor released me to Work, had broken foot w/ complications, broke it 19 Dec 08 at work. Go for final check, Monday, get some sort of Workers Comp disability assessment, 'if' he completely turns me loose. Said I could go back to work in August.....Employer said ain't enough work, others are 'skeeerd' to hire me........My 1st experience touching the Cyber Box, was while laid up, when I asked a question here.

The Medic

Not happy to say I'm becoming a plumber. Today I'm fixing busted pipes in my hydronic heating system and trying to add a port to fill it with antifreeze. I hate winter!

Hooked jumper cables up backwards now wont start.

Please add some details. "Won't start" can mean multiple things. Does the starter crank the engine, but the engine doesn't run? The starter fails to crank the engine? Have you checked the fuses? There are going to be multiple blown fuses, both under the hood and inside. Do any other systems work or not work, such as head lights, radio, heater fan, etc?

Why was the jump-start initially needed? Was this a one-time thing, such as the head lights were left on, or have you been dealing with a weak battery for some time? Any other symptoms related to this problem?

Please list the engine size in case I need to search for electrical diagrams. Many electrical circuits are different depending on the engine that was used. Have you done any testing so far, and if so, what were the results?

Started out with brake lights wouldn't turn off. Had to recharge battery . Needed to clean turminals (used baking soada and water). Accidently crossed battery cables now jeep wont start. Checked fuses didn't find any blown.

Check fuses with a test light. There is a large main fuse that should have blown shutting off the whole car of power. after replacing that, re-check all fuses with test light to verify power. keep your fingers crossed that no other modules burned out from crossing the cables.

Roy

I came out to my car and turned the key only to find no power on dash. Turns over but will not start. Checked the main fuse box and no power to transmission solenoid, starter and 02 sensor from the seat. Fuses are fine. Checked the inside fuse panel and half of those have no power.

check the ASD relay as it may be bad try switching with a like relay see if that helps. also try resetting security system if no owners manual look online for your car on how to do it. finally if all fails have it checked for a possible bad fuse block under hood.

I checked the asd relay with a relay checker and that was fine. I didn't know it had a security system. I get head lights and interior lights. No door locks or windows either. Then while unplugging and plugging it back ECM I had door locks. Some say negative battery cable. I have a voltage meter coming and I am going to run a few checks on that. How would I know if it's the fuse block is bad?

it may be just not sending power to fuses check with key on at fuses and see what you have with a volt meter like remove the fuse and stick prong of volt meter in it if it doesn't work with key on on one then i'd say that may be your problem. make sure to check all fusible links and ignition switch as well as it may be an ignition switch.

Ok. Will get back to you with results asap. Thnx.

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken

1. Towed to shop due to Crank no Start condition
2. ODB Computer (Autel DS708) Showed NO Code.
3. Vehicle will crank over and sometimes will start and run really rough then die.
4. Most times it will not run at all. It blows compression back through the throttle body
5. It will back fire sometimes.
6. The crank sensor tested good
7. CAM Sensor tested good
8. Map Sensor test good
9. Coolant Sensor Test Good
10. Fire on coil is good
11. Injector pulse is good
12. Fuel pressure is good
13. Checked Timing on the Balancer and it showed good. Removed the Timing cover and checked the chain and it showed good
14. I came to the conclusion that the computer was bad.
a. I ordered a used one from the salvage yard and had it programed
15. I replaced the computer and it did crank and run but had a Miss to the engine
16. ODB Codes showed Coil Misfire problems
17. Tested the Coil and it tested good, Rechecked all sensors again and tested good
18. Figured that the computer from the salvage yard was bad or something
19. Ordered a NEW Reman Computer from All Computer Resources in Miami Florida
a. I have purchase several jeep computers from this company over the years and been very pleased with this company
20. The new computer arrived
a. Computer installed
b. NEW CAM Sensor Installed
c. NEW Crank Sensor Installed
d. NEW Map Sensor installed
e. New Coolant Sensor Installed
f. NEW Plugs installed
g. New Coil Pack Installed
21. Vehicle will crank over but not start still.
a. Looks to be over fueling
b. Bucks really bad like the timing is not correct
c. Pops and backfires out the intake
d. Will not run
22. Put the computer from the salvage yard back in the vehicle and it will run sometimes but really rough like it is not firing on all cylinders. I did get it to run long enough that the exhaust pipe between the catalytic convert and the muffler was glowing red. ( less than 5min)
a. I am guessing that this was from all the fuel that is dumped into the exhaust system from not starting.

I am now at a LOSS on this vehicle

You need to look at some of these tests a little closer. What was the fuel pressure. Does the pressure hold within 5PSI for 15 minutes after shutting the key off?

When you put the scanner on it, look at data and see if the intake air temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor match before the truck is started.

What do the plugs look like when removed? Are the plugs fuel stained?

The fuel Pressure was at 52psi and no it did not drop any while cranking or after it was shut down. it will hold the pressure for hours.

I will have to check the temp and air sensor when I am back in the shop

The plugs were new but now are black soot looking now. they do smell of fuel though.

There was 2 degrees between the 2 sensors. One was 82 and one was 84

One more thing to check. Does the fuel pressure drop if the key is left on.

We have pretty much eliminated all sources of extra fuel. We need to check the compression.

no the fuel pressure does not drop.

I did a compression test on it when I first received the vehicle to work on it. They were all good. I just don't remember the numbers. I can do another compression test on it and see what they come out to be.

I see something goofy in the data. On page 3 the Bank 2 Pulse width is 50. That can't be right.

What could cause this? this data was taken Key on Engine Off.

Also what would be Bank 2 on a Inline 6 Engine?

I don't know. It doesn't make any sense. Are you sure you have the correct PCM and it's flashed correctly?

1. Towed to shop due to Crank no Start condition
2. ODB Computer (Autel DS708) Showed NO Code.
3. Vehicle will crank over and sometimes will start and run really rough then die.
4. Most times it will not run at all. It blows compression back through the throttle body
5. It will back fire sometimes.
6. The crank sensor tested good
7. CAM Sensor tested good
8. Map Sensor test good
9. Coolant Sensor Test Good
10. Fire on coil is good
11. Injector pulse is good
12. Fuel pressure is good
13. Checked Timing on the Balancer and it showed good. Removed the Timing cover and checked the chain and it showed good
14. I came to the conclusion that the computer was bad.
a. I ordered a used one from the salvage yard and had it programed
15. I replaced the computer and it did crank and run but had a Miss to the engine
16. ODB Codes showed Coil Misfire problems
17. Tested the Coil and it tested good, Rechecked all sensors again and tested good
18. Figured that the computer from the salvage yard was bad or something
19. Ordered a NEW Reman Computer from All Computer Resources in Miami Florida
a. I have purchase several jeep computers from this company over the years and been very pleased with this company
20. The new computer arrived
a. Computer installed
b. NEW CAM Sensor Installed
c. NEW Crank Sensor Installed
d. NEW Map Sensor installed
e. New Coolant Sensor Installed
f. NEW Plugs installed
g. New Coil Pack Installed
21. Vehicle will crank over but not start still.
a. Looks to be over fueling
b. Bucks really bad like the timing is not correct
c. Pops and backfires out the intake
d. Will not run
22. Put the computer from the salvage yard back in the vehicle and it will run sometimes but really rough like it is not firing on all cylinders. I did get it to run long enough that the exhaust pipe between the catalytic convert and the muffler was glowing red. ( less than 5min)
a. I am guessing that this was from all the fuel that is dumped into the exhaust system from not starting.
I am now at a loss

Two questions. First, did you check to see if the catalytic converter is plugged? Also, have you checked the coolant temp sensor?

The company i ordered it from claims it is the correct one. I have ordered 2 of them and had them programed. I ordered a used one from the salvage yard and had it programed and them i ordered a reman one and it cam programed. different vendors

Yes the O2 sensors are removed to just make sure, and the coolant sensor test good and was replaced new also test good

Are you getting good spark to the plugs as well as proper fuel pump pressure? I forget if you checked engine compression.

Yes the fuel pressure is good. No Leak Down either. The Spark is good. Had strong fire and a new coil.
the compression is in normal limits.

If you have good compression, the injectors are getting power, and you have a good spark, the engine should run. Have you checked timing? If you use starting fluid, will it start for a couple seconds?

I put this new engine in and it started and ran good for a few minutes then shut down, and will not start. It turns over and cranks, but the anti theft light come on blinks once then stays on. I really could use some help.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

It sounds like you are locked out by the anti-theft. If you haven't already, try a different key. If that does not work, here is a self test of the system from Alldata. See if it helps.

____________________________

Vehicle Theft/Security System (VTSS) Self Tests
VEHICLE THEFT/SECURITY SYSTEM (VTSS) SELF TESTS
In order to obtain conclusive testing of the Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) the Body Control Module (BCM) and all of the electronic modules that provide inputs to, or receive outputs from the VTSS components must be checked. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the VTSS requires the use of a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic procedures. The DRB scan tool can provide confirmation that the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus network is functional, that all of the electronic modules are sending and receiving the proper messages on the PCI data bus, and that the BCM is receiving the proper hard wired inputs and relaying the proper hard wired outputs to perform its VTSS functions.

See the proper Diagnostic Procedures and the Vehicle Theft Security System menu item on the DRB scan tool for the procedures.

WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, REFER TO AIR BAGS AND SEAT BELTS/AIR BAGS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.

1. Check the fused B(+) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
2. Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the Power Distribution Center (PDC) fuse as required.
3. Check the fused ignition switch output (run' start) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output (run/start) fuse in the junction block. If OK,go to Step 5. If not OK, repair the open fused ignition switch output (run/start) circuit to the ignition switch as required.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM) connector receptacle. Check for continuity between the ground circuit cavity of the instrument panel wire harness connector for the SKIM and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground as required.
6. Connect the battery negative cable. Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of the instrument panel wire harness connector for the SKIM. If OK, go to Step 7. If not OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the junction block fuse as required.
7. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output (run/start) circuit cavity of the instrument panel wire harness connector for the SKIM. If OK, use a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures to complete the diagnosis of the SKIS. If not OK, repair the open fused ignition switch output (run/start) circuit to the junction block fuse as require

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Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

I was about to run out of gas, so a friend brought me a couple gallons of what we thought was regular unleaded except it had a fluorescent green color. We put the gas in and I proceeded to drive to work smoking out of the exhaust. I got to work shut my car off, after work I went out to start my car and it won't start got a jump and it won't start. so I walk to gas station thinking that I was out of gas again put seven gallons of good gas in the tank. car still won't start it just cranks, almost starts and backfires.

From the description it sounds more like the "gasoline" may have been diesel fuel. Most diesel fuels are a greenish color. If that is the case you will need to drain the system and then flush it with good gasoline. The mixed stuff is pretty much useless for anything but will need to be disposed of. You will also want to remove the spark plugs and clean or replace them as they will likely be fouled from the diesel fuel creating a lot of soot and residue.