Mechanics

DEALER CAN'T FIX THIS ISSUE...

1995 Toyota Landcruiser

Engine Performance problem
1995 Toyota Landcruiser 6 cyl All Wheel Drive Automatic 150000 miles

I have a 1995 Toyota Land cruiser. I have spent about $1,500 or more trying to figure out a problem. It has changed over time, but is ultimately still the same problem.

The issue first appeared while I was driving on the interstate at around 70 mph and would only start happening after about 15-20 (20-25 minutes) miles when the truck was good and warm. It did not seem to happen at anything lower than 65 mph. It would start violently missing/shutting down. Enough to give my head a small jerk. It did not stall or keep me from driving, just a bad jerk. It would keep going and happen every 10 – 20 seconds. Seemed to notice it more going up a hill (more load). When I would get to where I was going, the idle would be racing up and down. Almost to the point of stalling then up to 2K. When I put it in park, it would be fine – so only really happened only under load. When it was cool just driving around town it would not happen.

I took it to my local mechanic and after several hours he gave up and told me to take it to the dealer. My first trip to the dealer cost me almost a thousand. They replaced the ERG assemble, VSV valve, gaskets, etc. Seemed to help a little for a day or so and then back to same old jerking. On next visit they replaced something else in ERG value, distributor, plugs, list goes on. When I got it back this time, it started jerking almost immediately and any speed over 20 mph. They also told me that it could be idle air control valve… did not make sense to me so I took the idle air control off my friends truck (same truck) and it did not make a difference. I gave up at dealer and went back to my normal mechanic – it was doing it all the time now so I thought it would be easier to diagnose. After a full day and several hundred more dollars in labor – still nothing. He said when he hooks it up to gage/computer – as soon as it was under load it would drop to zero. He review all wiring schematics and concluded the only thing he thought it could possibly be is ECM. So… I bought a used ECM. Same thing – no luck. Now the jerking seems to stop after I drive 30 miles or so… so same thing but has reversed how it manifests and when it stops. (This has been consistent before and after putting in new ECM) 5-6 visits to several mechanics and I am $2000 in the hole and it is running worse than ever. One other thing. The other day I stopped to pick something up and when I shut the key off it kept running. When I tried to start it back up it labored very hard but finally started. Every light in the dash came on and stayed on for a mile or so. This was right before I put the new computer on. Only did it this one time, but when it did it trashed the starter. So few hundred more for that. Not sure if it will do it again and trash another starter.

I am going crazy with this issue. Can’t fix it can’t sell it… I have a friend with same truck but a year newer so I can swap out most parts if I could get a clue?

Thanks.
Avatar
Mprevatt3
March 6, 2009.




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_TLCA_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_TLCB_1.jpg


You might want to check ECM grounds too. One on right and left kick panels black/white wires and one on air intake chamber brown/black.
IGNITION SWITCH Disconnect ignition switch connector. With ignition switch in specified position, check continuity between specified terminals of ignition switch connector. See IGNITION SWITCH CONTINUITY TEST table. See Fig. 4 . If continuity is not as specified, replace ignition switch.
Page 1 of 1 STEERING COLUMN SWITCHES -1995 Toyota Land Cruiser

Merlin2021
Mar 7, 2009.
Thanks. I will run this by my mechanic and see if he tired this yet. Will let you know results.

Tiny
Mprevatt3
Mar 9, 2009.
Check grounds - still no luck. It seems due to the consistent nature of the issue that a ground or issue with ignition switch would be more of an inconsistent problem. The problem is somehow heat related. After 10 minutes at higher speeds, starts to happen - almost like clock work. Any other suggestions.

Tiny
Mprevatt3
Mar 25, 2009.
In the old days first thing we looked at when it was heat related was the coil, been done yet? Also check CKP, and CPS. when hot!


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_CKPTOYOTA_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_CKPTOYOTAB_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_COILTOYa_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_COILTOYB_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_COILTOYC_1.jpg


Merlin2021
Mar 26, 2009.
I don't think the coil has been replaced. Is there a way to check the coil or do I just need to replace it and hope? What is CKP and CPS? How do I check? Thanks.

Tiny
Mprevatt3
Mar 26, 2009.
Mprevatt3,
I have similar problem with my LC. Did you find the root cause?

Thanks,
JF

Tiny
John Fremont
Jan 21, 2013.